Your 0-60 times
Discussion
Sam_68 said:
I'm with CraigVmax: everyone who owns a 'Seven' (especially the BEC ones, apparently) can do 3-second 0-60 times... until you actually put them up against accurate timing gear. 
I've not been up against any timing gear yet but i'd hazard a guess at my 'Seven' doing it in under 4 seconds, with 297bhp/132lbft@wheels and weighing 450kg, 73mph in 1st gear means no gear changes and decent traction from the start line 
Red16 said:
Sam_68 said:
I'm with CraigVmax: everyone who owns a 'Seven' (especially the BEC ones, apparently) can do 3-second 0-60 times... until you actually put them up against accurate timing gear.
I've not been up against any timing gear yet but i'd hazard a guess at my 'Seven' doing it in under 4 seconds, with 297bhp/132lbft@wheels and weighing 450kg, 73mph in 1st gear means no gear changes and decent traction from the start line Red16 said:
I've not been up against any timing gear yet but i'd hazard a guess at my 'Seven' doing it in under 4 seconds, with 297bhp/132lbft@wheels and weighing 450kg, 73mph in 1st gear means no gear changes and decent traction from the start line
You might well find that it depends how good your tyres, rear suspension geometry and (particularly) damping are, as these, rather than power:weight ratio, tend to be the limiting factor with very light cars like 'Sevens'.Sticky tyres go without explanation, but if your contact footprint is reduced by camber angles when the car squats, or if your dampers are incapable of very precisely controlling wheel movement against the highly unfavourable sprung:unsprung weight ratios you get with flyweights, you may be disappointed no matter how powerful your engine is.
...but yes, unless you've got a set of spax adjustables and 'ordinary' (non-track-day) tyres, you'll stand a reasonable chance of <4.0 with that sort of power... provided you don't blow your clutch.
Sam_68 said:
You might well find that it depends how good your tyres, rear suspension geometry and (particularly) damping are, as these, rather than power:weight ratio, tend to be the limiting factor with very light cars like 'Sevens'.
Sticky tyres go without explanation, but if your contact footprint is reduced by camber angles when the car squats, or if your dampers are incapable of very precisely controlling wheel movement against the highly unfavourable sprung:unsprung weight ratios you get with flyweights, you may be disappointed no matter how powerful your engine is.
...but yes, unless you've got a set of spax adjustables and 'ordinary' (non-track-day) tyres, you'll stand a reasonable chance of <4.0 with that sort of power... provided you don't blow your clutch.
Gaz aluminium bodied coilovers do a reasonable job of the damping.Sticky tyres go without explanation, but if your contact footprint is reduced by camber angles when the car squats, or if your dampers are incapable of very precisely controlling wheel movement against the highly unfavourable sprung:unsprung weight ratios you get with flyweights, you may be disappointed no matter how powerful your engine is.
...but yes, unless you've got a set of spax adjustables and 'ordinary' (non-track-day) tyres, you'll stand a reasonable chance of <4.0 with that sort of power... provided you don't blow your clutch.
Suspension arms have rosejoints for adjustment of camber and caster which help keep the suspension alignment in check.
Medium compound Toyo R888 tyres on lightweight Team Dynamic Pro 1.2 wheels, assist with grip and keep moment of inertia and unsprung weight down.
A lock up clutch helps by preventing clutch slip.
So all in all a decent chance of laying down some good times, providing my driving isn't too poor!
Red16 said:
Gaz aluminium bodied coilovers do a reasonable job of the damping.
Suspension arms have rosejoints for adjustment of camber and caster which help keep the suspension alignment in check.
You'd have been better off (IMO Suspension arms have rosejoints for adjustment of camber and caster which help keep the suspension alignment in check.
) spending at least some of your money on better dampers - GAZ are probably better than Spax, but still pretty bargain-basement. Think about Nitrons at least, or preferably Penskes when your budget allows. And whatever you use, make sure they've been valved to suit the application and dyno checked.- and yes, rose joints help maintain accuracy of suspension, but if the basic geometry is wrong, all they'll do is ensure that its accurately bad!
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