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When replacing the camshaft caps in a Ferrari V8 try not to drop an M6 washer into an oil return gallery in the head
(two hours of sweating bullets, visions of having to remove the cylinder head etc.Fished it out with a small magnet taped to the end of a piece of wire - it had gone down about 2-3 inches round a slight curve. Always, ALWAYS keep a magnetic pickup tool or two and an assortment of magnets around the workshop!)
(two hours of sweating bullets, visions of having to remove the cylinder head etc.Fished it out with a small magnet taped to the end of a piece of wire - it had gone down about 2-3 inches round a slight curve. Always, ALWAYS keep a magnetic pickup tool or two and an assortment of magnets around the workshop!)
Edited by Wombat3 on Tuesday 10th April 01:02
When using a low entry trolley jack to raise the front passenger side of your daughter's Swift, make sure that the "hockey puck" can't slip or you risk the chance that the saddle of the jack will suddenly move allowing the weight of the vehicle to rest onto the floorpan which will easily overcome the handful of spot welds that attach it to the car.
ks that Haynes tell youWhen servicing your Peugeot 405, do make sure that the bonnet catch is working properly, and that the bonnet is shut, before going on a test drive:
Failure to do so can cause inconvenience in that having the bonnet wrapped around the windscreen restricts forward vision somewhat. And having a bonnet with footprints on it and bungee cords holding it down reduces the aesthetic appeal of the vehicle.
Failure to do so can cause inconvenience in that having the bonnet wrapped around the windscreen restricts forward vision somewhat. And having a bonnet with footprints on it and bungee cords holding it down reduces the aesthetic appeal of the vehicle.
When checking a fairly rusty Mk1 fiesta exhaust don't trust the stupid loop thing on the bottom of the car and the factory jack to support it's weight as you slide underneath. Certainly don't go underneath a car without placing some sort of stand or prop to support it should said jacking point fail suddenly.
In my case the whole lot collapsed slamming the car into the ground about a second after I'd got out, while my face was about 6" from the side of the car.
Also should you notice a slightly loose looking coil lead on an ancient Volvo (that might explain rough running) don't attempt to push it back into place while the engine is running and your other hand is leaning on the wing, thus completing a nice circuit through your chest.
Another one for the steering wheel nut issue, in my case a Ford badge was embossed on my head for a while.
In my case the whole lot collapsed slamming the car into the ground about a second after I'd got out, while my face was about 6" from the side of the car.
Also should you notice a slightly loose looking coil lead on an ancient Volvo (that might explain rough running) don't attempt to push it back into place while the engine is running and your other hand is leaning on the wing, thus completing a nice circuit through your chest.
Another one for the steering wheel nut issue, in my case a Ford badge was embossed on my head for a while.
I once decided I would lower my car by jacking the car into the air and just cutting a coil or two off whist still in place.. so I decided to cut 2 coils... fired up the grinder and after an almighty bang two coils had been separated.. however I failed to realize the springs were contoured and no the spring is too wide to fit on the strut cup and is now supporting nothing....
one car now unable to drive or support its own weight
one car now unable to drive or support its own weight
CaptainSlow said:
When replacing brake pads remember to align new pads with friction material facing discs, especially if new underwear is not available during test drive.
Furthermore, if the pads are the right way around, seat the pads prior to taking a drive. This prevents the need for new underwear upon first brake application.
JakeT said:
CaptainSlow said:
When replacing brake pads remember to align new pads with friction material facing discs, especially if new underwear is not available during test drive.
Furthermore, if the pads are the right way around, seat the pads prior to taking a drive. This prevents the need for new underwear upon first brake application.In other news, when you un-hitch a trailer, before driving forwards some people recommend un-clipping the electrics. This helps in the electrics not being removed from the trailer in a strange fashion.
Peanut Gallery said:
JakeT said:
CaptainSlow said:
When replacing brake pads remember to align new pads with friction material facing discs, especially if new underwear is not available during test drive.
Furthermore, if the pads are the right way around, seat the pads prior to taking a drive. This prevents the need for new underwear upon first brake application.In other news, when you un-hitch a trailer, before driving forwards some people recommend un-clipping the electrics. This helps in the electrics not being removed from the trailer in a strange fashion.
When standing under a car welding if a blob of red hot molten metal happens to go down the front of your T-shirt and lodge behind your belt buckle, DO NOT and I mean this! immediately pull the buckle away to stop the painful burning sensation. As the still red hot bit of metal will almost certainly end up somewhere so painful words cannot describe how much it hurts. Also be prepared for your mate to fall about laughing (git) and tell you that you scream like a girl.
When removing the engine from a TVR Vixen on the driveway using an engine crane with wheels, don't lift the engine and gearbox from the car then spend 20 minutes heaving and straining at the engine crane to get the assembly in to the garage, then wonder why there is a 15 feet long heavy duty 'biro' spring joining the gearbox to the back of the speedometer which is obviously still in the car. Surprisingly I had to replace that speedo cable.
GSE said:
When servicing your Peugeot 405, do make sure that the bonnet catch is working properly, and that the bonnet is shut, before going on a test drive:
Failure to do so can cause inconvenience in that having the bonnet wrapped around the windscreen restricts forward vision somewhat. And having a bonnet with footprints on it and bungee cords holding it down reduces the aesthetic appeal of the vehicle.
, Failure to do so can cause inconvenience in that having the bonnet wrapped around the windscreen restricts forward vision somewhat. And having a bonnet with footprints on it and bungee cords holding it down reduces the aesthetic appeal of the vehicle.
I was going to leave exactly the same reply, albeit changing a coil pack on a 1.2 Clio in my youth. Trying to pull into the hard shoulder from lane 3 on a busy motorway with a bonnet covering your now cracked windscreen is not easy!
louiechevy said:
When standing under a car welding if a blob of red hot molten metal happens to go down the front of your T-shirt and lodge behind your belt buckle, DO NOT and I mean this! immediately pull the buckle away to stop the painful burning sensation. As the still red hot bit of metal will almost certainly end up somewhere so painful words cannot describe how much it hurts. Also be prepared for your mate to fall about laughing (git) and tell you that you scream like a girl.
marvellous 
If you rest the funnel on the inlet manifold while doing an oil change, remember to put it back in the filler hole before pouring oil into it.
Checking whether your engine / gearbox combination requires a spigot bearing before assembly will save a lot of sweat, anger and frustration trying to close the last 5 mm gap between block and bellhousing.
Checking whether your engine / gearbox combination requires a spigot bearing before assembly will save a lot of sweat, anger and frustration trying to close the last 5 mm gap between block and bellhousing.
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