shall i get some rusty arches repaired or not?
Discussion
If it's the OP's daily car and keeping for a long time then it doesn't matter if it's worth it or not in money terms. It might be old, but that thing will probably go on forever and they still look pretty presentable. No harm in pricing up a decent proper fix... Try not to think about getting the money back, or chucking the money away, if you like the car, have it done, keep it and enjoy it.
Failing that, keep until it's a real problem or chop it in for something else.
Failing that, keep until it's a real problem or chop it in for something else.
A proper fix (i.e brand new panels) is out of the question, it would cost thousands.
I believe from what you guys have said that a quick fix is not worth the money either as it will last months at best.
What I don't know is whether there is an intermediate option?
Being sensible I should probably spend the minimum possible, as something could break on the car tomorrow and I'd have thrown money away on it.
Kind of torn between the desire to have it done and the reluctance to invest in an already 12 year old car. Ideally though, I'd still like to stop it getting any worse if possible, even if I can't cheaply make it perfect again.
I believe from what you guys have said that a quick fix is not worth the money either as it will last months at best.
What I don't know is whether there is an intermediate option?
Being sensible I should probably spend the minimum possible, as something could break on the car tomorrow and I'd have thrown money away on it.
Kind of torn between the desire to have it done and the reluctance to invest in an already 12 year old car. Ideally though, I'd still like to stop it getting any worse if possible, even if I can't cheaply make it perfect again.
My son had similar dilemma with Fiesta Zetec s. Great little thing but like Puma, soundproofing applied to outside of wheel arch. To the point I went to small independent body shop - cash, no paperwork, and they made it look mint. However, rust returns in about 15 months. If you like the car, do it, tell 'em you know it's cosmetic and not a permanent cure, none are! so they need to price accordingly.
Edited by Lester H on Saturday 9th January 23:48
danlightbulb said:
I believe from what you guys have said that a quick fix is not worth the money either as it will last months at best.
Largely true, unless you get good at body repair and put some effort in.[quote]What I don't know is whether there is an intermediate option?
[quote]Being sensible I should probably spend the minimum possible, as something could break on the car tomorrow and I'd have thrown money away on it.
[quote]Kind of torn between the desire to have it done and the reluctance to invest in an already 12 year old car. Ideally though, I'd still like to stop it getting any worse if possible, even if I can't cheaply make it perfect again.
Now choose.
Lester H said:
However, rust returns in about 15 months. If you like the car, do it, tell 'em you know it's cosmetic and not a permanent cure, none are!
They can be. If you grind it all back to shiny metal and make good, it's permanent. However this takes time and effort, and considerable patience. I've done it, but it's a ball-ache. By the time you have finished you can cut out the rot and make and MIG in a repair panel.I once made a cardboard, P45 and body schutz repair to an inner arch that lasted 3 years. It was far from elegant but it kept the rain out.
Edited by Lester H on Saturday 9th January 23:48
I have had a few accords of this vintage (civics too)
I knew that the rule was , any corrosion on the wheel arches - walk away. Like you, I did not
Because of the shape of the w/arch and the fact that the rear qtr panels are not an option at this age.
I chose to ignore the DIY/filler bodge because it always looks rubbish.
got a body shop to remove all compromised metal and replace, then shape the w/archs.
Looks very passable and normally lasts 3-4 years before it returns.
£500 inc paint for both sides.
did you see the chrome stick on arches linked in the other thread , while not ideal it would hide the mess and make sure theres no sharp edges when it gets worse
not great but an affordable way to make it go away
i think unless youve done alot of diy repairs it would stand out like a sore thumb with a rattle can paint job , and a bodyshop repair worth having will cost too much , dont pay a body shop to fibre glass it
not great but an affordable way to make it go away
i think unless youve done alot of diy repairs it would stand out like a sore thumb with a rattle can paint job , and a bodyshop repair worth having will cost too much , dont pay a body shop to fibre glass it
Bear in mind that rear arches ARE structural...
If they're badly rotted within 30cm of rear belt mounts or suspension mounts, that's a fail. Never mind sharp edges...
Shoving some podge in there is a horrific bodge. It won't slow the rot down, and it certainly won't add any strength.
I'm no great lover of S2ks, but... <whimper>
If they're badly rotted within 30cm of rear belt mounts or suspension mounts, that's a fail. Never mind sharp edges...
Shoving some podge in there is a horrific bodge. It won't slow the rot down, and it certainly won't add any strength.
I'm no great lover of S2ks, but... <whimper>
If it will last a few years until its an MOT fail (which seems to be the consensus here), then I'd leave it until then and then make my mind up what to do. Worst case is you scrap it and have paid £1300 (purchase price less scrap value), to run around in a big, comfy, reasonably quick, reasonably well specced, otherwise reliable (hopefully!) estate for a couple of years, which ain't bad IMO. If it then costs the best part of a grand to fix it such that it would last a couple more years, then if you like the car, it's proved reliable, and you couldn't get anything better for the cost of the repair then get it fixed. If you're buying at this end of the market then I think you have to accept that you will have to spend a bit on repairs now and again, and I think it's generally better to do that and stick with a car you know is basically sound than gamble on another cheap car which could be a dog.
On a 2003 all I would do with that is,
- Remove loose flakes and scrape off surface rust with an old screwdriveras neatly as you can.
- Paint with Hammerite of the closest colour you can find in your local Halfords/DIY store.
- If necessary, cover with car paint of correct colour (but you need to leave the Hammerite for a month before you over-paint. There can otherwise be a reaction between the two types of paint)
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