The Joy of Running an Old Shed (Vol 2)
Discussion
Here's a terrible photo of it shooting against the sunrise this morning. Parked up next to my MX-5. Car's covered in sap from the pine trees so will get it cleaned at the weekend. Need to move it actually as that's the neighbours space but he said I could leave it for a few days while I sorted out the paperwork.
Came with the private plate as well, original 56 plate in the boot. He only put an ad in the window and we live in a quiet road and apparently his phone was ringing off the hook about it so didn't push my luck and offered £700 against a £750 asking. Walked across the hallway in my slippers, laptop in hand to do the transfer on the DVLA website. Very easy.
Will take a proper look at it over the weekend but managed to get the insurance sorted easily as did a vehicle change on my policy for the remaining 3 weeks of it. Got a new policy in my wife's name for £230 on our main car which is a diesel civic. Happy days price wise as we're both 30 so didn't think that was a bad price. Only cost £10 for the vehicle change on my policy so I've got 3 weeks to shop around.
Drives very nicely, so far the issues I've spotted are one window regulator at the back is broken. One taillight needs a bulb and engine management light is on. Suspected lambda sensor so will get a cheap OBD reader and sort it as that'll annoy me. Tyres all fine and dual zone climate control works very nicely.
The door/wing ding (passenger side) isn't bad but has been badly touched up with spray. So I'll sand the panels down, pop the dent as much as possible and get the correct colour code and lacquer for a better rattle can finish albeit I'll hold off for now as it really doesn't bother me much as the damage is minor. Came with 2 keys and only 2 previous owners before my neighbour so I'll be the 4th on a 15 year old car which isn't bad. Just shy of 118k on the clock.
Edited by Bumblebee7 on Thursday 28th October 09:55
Bumblebee7 said:
Drives very nicely, so far the issues I've spotted are one window regulator at the back is broken. One taillight needs a bulb and engine management light is on. Suspected lambda sensor so will get a cheap OBD reader and sort it as that'll annoy me.
I replaced one of the rear window regulators on our similar vintage 325i, and it was fairly easy. Just have to be careful not to damage the vapour barrier behind the door card (you'll need to unstick the top half of it from the door skin, so you have enough room to remove the old regulator and install the new one). You can buy the lifter/motor second hand from eBay for about £20. This compared to a local garage quoting me £350 to do the job with new parts.There are some online guides as to where all the plastic clips and screws are located.
On ours, the wire cable inside the regulator had someone got chewed up/frayed - and had jammed the mechanism. Whilst I was waiting for the new part to arrive, I cut the cable and held the glass shut with a block of wood
aaron_2000 said:
When the dodgy Bradford trader said it had been valeted, I just laughed at him. Here is why:
The ML also has that weird s
tty foil stuck to the air vents, the adhesive is absolutely awful to get off even with a strong adhesive remover. Dirty interior doesn't matter to me as I'll be deep cleaning it regardless. I don't care about the exterior, I don't care if I get it dirty but I will not drive around in someone else's filth. Not that I can because the battery is currently dead
The V70 had the stuff all over it as well, just peels off slowly and wears fingers off, did pop the climate unit out to get into the nooks and crannies though The ML also has that weird s
tty foil stuck to the air vents, the adhesive is absolutely awful to get off even with a strong adhesive remover. Dirty interior doesn't matter to me as I'll be deep cleaning it regardless. I don't care about the exterior, I don't care if I get it dirty but I will not drive around in someone else's filth. Not that I can because the battery is currently dead Why why why why why
Failed!
I suspected this might be the result of the knocking. Garage (who I trust and have a very good reputation) are charging me £160 for the job as they said it's more cost effective to just buy the whole arm rather than faff about trying to separate the ball joint from the arm. Said about £160 all in which didn't sound too bad.
Brake pipes they said I might not get another year out of but they are going to have a proper look when it's up on the ramp as they can't mess with them during the MOT.
Could have done without the cost but it's not extortion for another year of shed motoring!
Bumblebee7 said:
Drives very nicely, so far the issues I've spotted are one window regulator at the back is broken. One taillight needs a bulb and engine management light is on. Suspected lambda sensor so will get a cheap OBD reader and sort it as that'll annoy me.
Sounds like a great buy! Fwiw I’d recommend looking at getting INPA onto your laptop vs a generic cheap obd reader. Bit of a learning curve but I’ve found it quite invaluable for shedding my E46Edited by Bumblebee7 on Thursday 28th October 09:55
andrebar said:
Sounds like a great buy! Fwiw I’d recommend looking at getting INPA onto your laptop vs a generic cheap obd reader. Bit of a learning curve but I’ve found it quite invaluable for shedding my E46
Agreed, it is a fair amount of effort to setup but it is absolutely brilliant. Even allowed me to spot that my ex wifes E46 had been given a 70K mile haircut at some point which explained a lot.Joey Deacon said:
andrebar said:
Sounds like a great buy! Fwiw I’d recommend looking at getting INPA onto your laptop vs a generic cheap obd reader. Bit of a learning curve but I’ve found it quite invaluable for shedding my E46
Agreed, it is a fair amount of effort to setup but it is absolutely brilliant. Even allowed me to spot that my ex wifes E46 had been given a 70K mile haircut at some point which explained a lot.And further to my post saying I'm not fussed about the ding- I've seen that wings and doors are really cheap so I'll get this replaced. It's the only thing really that spoils the car and if I decide to sell it would be worth more if it was in good shape bodywork wise.
Time to join in with this thread..
Couple of years back I wanted a winter runabout and general useage shed so I could keep my beloved M4 as more of a weekend toy. Eventually landed on a 2008 2.0l petrol Rav4. Liked the look of them, and known to be pretty trouble free with an almost bullet proof chain driven petrol engine. Managed to pick one up locally and paid just under 3K for it. Had 84K odd miles showing when purchased and is now on 97K.
This thing has never let me down in 2 years and had already passed 2 MOT's in my time without issue. MOT was due next month but fired it into my local place this week and once again it is now MOT'd for another year with only a few basic advisories. Have thought about changing again to something else, but have zero need to TBH. It's a comfy drive, has all the toys I need, is full leather inside, electric everything, ice cold air con etc.. It returns around 33mpg which is not the best but a work round trip of 30 miles means it's acceptable. It's also my 'go to' car for all daily duties now. I still love the M4, but having a car with zero drama and zero worries about what happens to it when I am out is very liberating. Also makes the M feel more special when I do use it now.
Accoring to WBAC it is still worth around 2.8K so almost what I paid for it just over 2 years ago. One of my better car purchases in financial terms!
Couple of years back I wanted a winter runabout and general useage shed so I could keep my beloved M4 as more of a weekend toy. Eventually landed on a 2008 2.0l petrol Rav4. Liked the look of them, and known to be pretty trouble free with an almost bullet proof chain driven petrol engine. Managed to pick one up locally and paid just under 3K for it. Had 84K odd miles showing when purchased and is now on 97K.
This thing has never let me down in 2 years and had already passed 2 MOT's in my time without issue. MOT was due next month but fired it into my local place this week and once again it is now MOT'd for another year with only a few basic advisories. Have thought about changing again to something else, but have zero need to TBH. It's a comfy drive, has all the toys I need, is full leather inside, electric everything, ice cold air con etc.. It returns around 33mpg which is not the best but a work round trip of 30 miles means it's acceptable. It's also my 'go to' car for all daily duties now. I still love the M4, but having a car with zero drama and zero worries about what happens to it when I am out is very liberating. Also makes the M feel more special when I do use it now.
Accoring to WBAC it is still worth around 2.8K so almost what I paid for it just over 2 years ago. One of my better car purchases in financial terms!
Edited by Scrubs on Thursday 28th October 17:02
£202 lighter, but now with an MOT pass!
£162 for the lower suspension arm, and £40 for the MOT.
Garage commented that it was very strange that the suspension arm was bolted to the floor of the car! He said luckily, I had already removed the carpet! Otherwise in order to free the suspension arm, some of the interior trim would have had to be removed and the passenger side carpet removed, all to get to the bolts that hold the suspension arm on. They said they hadn't seen that before! It was a bit of a pig of a job by all accounts.
£200 is quite a lot to spend in shedland i suppose, especially given the car was only £250, but it hasn't really cost me anything bar a service / cambelt and tyres in the two years I have had it, and generally if anything goes wrong, the FIL fixes it, so £200 for another years shedding is fine with me, plus i got a free courtesy 107 while my 106 was in the garage, and a garage i do trust.
They also greased my rear brake pipes. Said they will probably need doing quite soon in the future. Autodoc seem to sell them quite cheaply, so might get that done in the summer, we'll see.
£162 for the lower suspension arm, and £40 for the MOT.
Garage commented that it was very strange that the suspension arm was bolted to the floor of the car! He said luckily, I had already removed the carpet! Otherwise in order to free the suspension arm, some of the interior trim would have had to be removed and the passenger side carpet removed, all to get to the bolts that hold the suspension arm on. They said they hadn't seen that before! It was a bit of a pig of a job by all accounts.
£200 is quite a lot to spend in shedland i suppose, especially given the car was only £250, but it hasn't really cost me anything bar a service / cambelt and tyres in the two years I have had it, and generally if anything goes wrong, the FIL fixes it, so £200 for another years shedding is fine with me, plus i got a free courtesy 107 while my 106 was in the garage, and a garage i do trust.
They also greased my rear brake pipes. Said they will probably need doing quite soon in the future. Autodoc seem to sell them quite cheaply, so might get that done in the summer, we'll see.
James_N said:
£202 lighter, but now with an MOT pass!
One of the best bits of owning a shed, that moment when you realise you're going to get another year's use out of it. My diesel 106 just passed its sixth MoT in my ownership, coming up to 170,000 miles now. Gearchange is getting really sloppy and all the excess movement is inside the gearbox, not the linkages, so I suspect at some point it will lose the ability to engage gears. I'm treating it as gently as I can. I reckon the throttle response has felt a bit flat since I ran it on ancient diesel drained out of a scrap Land Rover during the fuel crisis a few weeks ago. I changed the fuel filter but it still doesn't seem as nippy as it was, but I might just be imagining it. Automotive hypochondria. The Puglet has been quite a remarkable little shed and it would be nice to get it up to 200,000 miles230TE said:
One of the best bits of owning a shed, that moment when you realise you're going to get another year's use out of it.
That beats all the faffing about and wasted time that occurs when having to start looking for another car as well as the sense of impending doom when you're handing over the readies when you've eventually found one every time.Jaguar steve said:
230TE said:
One of the best bits of owning a shed, that moment when you realise you're going to get another year's use out of it.
That beats all the faffing about and wasted time that occurs when having to start looking for another car as well as the sense of impending doom when you're handing over the readies when you've eventually found one every time.It's getting harder too, there are a few cheap goodies out there at the moment but they are thin on the ground, I'm hoping mine lasts until this nonsense is over and prices return to somewhere near normal.
230TE said:
One of the best bits of owning a shed, that moment when you realise you're going to get another year's use out of it. My diesel 106 just passed its sixth MoT in my ownership, coming up to 170,000 miles now. Gearchange is getting really sloppy and all the excess movement is inside the gearbox, not the linkages, so I suspect at some point it will lose the ability to engage gears. I'm treating it as gently as I can. I reckon the throttle response has felt a bit flat since I ran it on ancient diesel drained out of a scrap Land Rover during the fuel crisis a few weeks ago. I changed the fuel filter but it still doesn't seem as nippy as it was, but I might just be imagining it. Automotive hypochondria. The Puglet has been quite a remarkable little shed and it would be nice to get it up to 200,000 miles
My gear change is very sloppy too. I think there is a busy kit you can get for the base of the gear lever that sorts this out? Don't quote me but I'm sure I've seen something along these lines on one of the Peugeot Facebook groups!Anyway, less than 24 hours after passing it's MOT, I'm asking for advice. This morning on the way to see my dad, 3 miles after the MOT pass, the EML came on. Getting my Bluetooth code reader out has given me this information
Now it's strange it's done this straight after the MOT. Is this something the garage have likely messed up, or just a very timely coincidence?
Car is running ok, no noticeable lack of power or driving issues (100 miles done today) but wondered if I should approach the garage about this or troubleshoot it myself.
Car was absolutely fine before the MOT, not throwing an engine light in all the two years I have had it.
Advice on how to proceed appreciated
OK, Cat system efficiency....
The system has 2 oxy sensors and a cat. The first upstream oxy sensor looks at the fuel/ air mix and either leans the fuel mix, or riches up the mix depending on the result it sees. It's pretty crude:- If it detects O2, then it riches the mix up until it doesn't see O2. Once it doesn't see it, it leans it out until it starts to see it again.
This means the upstream O2 sensor is always oscillating between lean and rich states. It does this about once a second.
The downstream O2 sensor does the same thing - it's looking for O2. It shouldn't see too much variation from a steady state 'neither lean nor rich' state. If it does, it flags the code you've seen.
Seeing this code means a) the upstream O2 sensor has gone defective (usually they go 'lazy' and alternate slowly), the downstream O2 sensor has gone belly up, or the cat has gone belly up. It's unlikely there is major fuelling issues in the system, as those would bring up other codes, and it wouldn't pass the emissions on an MOT.
The most reliable method of fixing this issue is to replace both O2 sensors, plus the cat.
Or, just clear the code when it pops up, and before the MOT test.
The system has 2 oxy sensors and a cat. The first upstream oxy sensor looks at the fuel/ air mix and either leans the fuel mix, or riches up the mix depending on the result it sees. It's pretty crude:- If it detects O2, then it riches the mix up until it doesn't see O2. Once it doesn't see it, it leans it out until it starts to see it again.
This means the upstream O2 sensor is always oscillating between lean and rich states. It does this about once a second.
The downstream O2 sensor does the same thing - it's looking for O2. It shouldn't see too much variation from a steady state 'neither lean nor rich' state. If it does, it flags the code you've seen.
Seeing this code means a) the upstream O2 sensor has gone defective (usually they go 'lazy' and alternate slowly), the downstream O2 sensor has gone belly up, or the cat has gone belly up. It's unlikely there is major fuelling issues in the system, as those would bring up other codes, and it wouldn't pass the emissions on an MOT.
The most reliable method of fixing this issue is to replace both O2 sensors, plus the cat.
Or, just clear the code when it pops up, and before the MOT test.
James_N said:
My gear change is very sloppy too. I think there is a busy kit you can get for the base of the gear lever that sorts this out? Don't quote me but I'm sure I've seen something along these lines on one of the Peugeot Facebook groups!
Anyway, less than 24 hours after passing it's MOT, I'm asking for advice. This morning on the way to see my dad, 3 miles after the MOT pass, the EML came on. Getting my Bluetooth code reader out has given me this information
Now it's strange it's done this straight after the MOT. Is this something the garage have likely messed up, or just a very timely coincidence?
Car is running ok, no noticeable lack of power or driving issues (100 miles done today) but wondered if I should approach the garage about this or troubleshoot it myself.
Car was absolutely fine before the MOT, not throwing an engine light in all the two years I have had it.
Advice on how to proceed appreciated
Probably coincidence I would say.Anyway, less than 24 hours after passing it's MOT, I'm asking for advice. This morning on the way to see my dad, 3 miles after the MOT pass, the EML came on. Getting my Bluetooth code reader out has given me this information
Now it's strange it's done this straight after the MOT. Is this something the garage have likely messed up, or just a very timely coincidence?
Car is running ok, no noticeable lack of power or driving issues (100 miles done today) but wondered if I should approach the garage about this or troubleshoot it myself.
Car was absolutely fine before the MOT, not throwing an engine light in all the two years I have had it.
Advice on how to proceed appreciated
I had a similarish code (P0136) with my old Subaru, turned out to be a faulty lambda sensor post cat, I managed to get a replacement for £40 which fixed it.
The code you have is pretty much the same - the car is moaning the emissions aren't right. Try clearing the code first before checking anything. If it comes back and you want fault actually fixed then I'd probably do the following in this order (cost reasons)
Check for any exhaust leaks (especially around the cat area) and sort out, if none;
Check the lambda sensors for any loose connections/shorted connections and sort out, if none;
Remove lambda sensors and clean, if fault reoccurs;
Replace lambda sensors, if fault reoccurs;
Replace cat, if fault reoccurs;
... Panic.
Had a nice surprise a few days ago...
A few months ago I bought a diesel Rover Streetwise for £400. It does 55 to the gallon, has working Aircon etc...
I expected a bit of a bill to get it through the MOT, but no, straight through with no advisories.
With no history I should probably get the timing belt changed - not sure how lucky I'm feeling on that.
A few months ago I bought a diesel Rover Streetwise for £400. It does 55 to the gallon, has working Aircon etc...
I expected a bit of a bill to get it through the MOT, but no, straight through with no advisories.
With no history I should probably get the timing belt changed - not sure how lucky I'm feeling on that.
SebastienClement said:
Had a nice surprise a few days ago...
A few months ago I bought a diesel Rover Streetwise for £400. It does 55 to the gallon, has working Aircon etc...
I expected a bit of a bill to get it through the MOT, but no, straight through with no advisories.
With no history I should probably get the timing belt changed - not sure how lucky I'm feeling on that.
I'd be getting the timing belt done if that were me. It'll still only owe you about £700 (much less if you do it yourself) but it's got to be worth it for peace of mind alone.A few months ago I bought a diesel Rover Streetwise for £400. It does 55 to the gallon, has working Aircon etc...
I expected a bit of a bill to get it through the MOT, but no, straight through with no advisories.
With no history I should probably get the timing belt changed - not sure how lucky I'm feeling on that.
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