Wheel Spacers - Opinions
Discussion
doogz said:
Ranger 6 said:
doogz said:
Durrr...
I knew that actually.....
I knew that actually.....
yeah sure 
I just assumed the TS stood for tensile steel, and was trying to figure out what sort of adjective beginning with "P" would precede that.
even more - it's that 'Doh!' moment isn't it 
Captain Muppet said:
doogz said:
It was really a quick hand calc to make a point at the time, that you're taking rather seriously.
I'm not taking it seriously, I'm taking it pedanticaly, like an engineer would.If I was taking it seriously I wouldn't be typing this one-handed while eating a twix.
cheadle hulme said:
Are these ones safe? Just fitted them to my Jimny and all you engineer nerds have got me worried.The stud extension fits into the slot in the spacer, so they won't undo, just worried about all this tension! They're 32mm wide.
Do not like... Plus, they look like they have more weight on one side, than the other. doogz said:
So, you tighten the stud extension up to the relevant torque, to the nearest 6th of a turn so they sit within the hexagonal clearance holes in the spacer, then fit the wheel over the top and tighten the nuts up there, torqueing them to the relevant value, which will possibly/probably then turn the hexagonal extensions in the clearance holes in the spacers until they foul?
Is that right?
Basically, yes. Is that right?
f
k that Cheadle!
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/63/dscn7844.j...
i refused to run these^^^ style of adapters. 4x100-5x112. notice the big screw? your adapter and wheel are basically held in with 3x of the 4 factory threads. sooooooood that.
k that Cheadle!http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/63/dscn7844.j...
i refused to run these^^^ style of adapters. 4x100-5x112. notice the big screw? your adapter and wheel are basically held in with 3x of the 4 factory threads. sooooooood that.
JB! said:
fk that Cheadle!
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/63/dscn7844.j...
i refused to run these^^^ style of adapters. 4x100-5x112. notice the big screw? your adapter and wheel are basically held in with 3x of the 4 factory threads. sooooooood that.
It's not as bad as you think. The wheel is attached by one bolt directly to the hub via the "big screw", and the load from the other 4 wheel bolts are distributed pretty evenly across the 3 bolts that hold the adapter to the hub.k that Cheadle!http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/63/dscn7844.j...
i refused to run these^^^ style of adapters. 4x100-5x112. notice the big screw? your adapter and wheel are basically held in with 3x of the 4 factory threads. sooooooood that.
Mr2Mike said:
It's not as bad as you think. The wheel is attached by one bolt directly to the hub via the "big screw", and the load from the other 4 wheel bolts are distributed pretty evenly across the 3 bolts that hold the adapter to the hub.
the "big screw" is never tight though, always wound till it's in the right stud pattern...OP - I'll make a comment whilst the children have a discussion about whose got the biggest brain!
That makes a huge difference. Looks much better and not silly low either.
I think the VRS is a fine looking car. A good compromise if you are wanting a sensible to run "sporty" family car.
That makes a huge difference. Looks much better and not silly low either.
I think the VRS is a fine looking car. A good compromise if you are wanting a sensible to run "sporty" family car.
GreatGranny said:
OP - I'll make a comment whilst the children have a discussion about whose got the biggest brain!
That makes a huge difference. Looks much better and not silly low either.
I think the VRS is a fine looking car. A good compromise if you are wanting a sensible to run "sporty" family car.
Thanks. I'm very happy with the result. That makes a huge difference. Looks much better and not silly low either.
I think the VRS is a fine looking car. A good compromise if you are wanting a sensible to run "sporty" family car.
My vRS has been faultless since I've had it and with 2 kids and a wife 'wot shops' it's got the space with a little poke when wanted too.
JB! said:
the "big screw" is never tight though, always wound till it's in the right stud pattern...
I don't understand what you mean? The "big screw" tightens up against the hub, which is why there is a big hole in the adapter plate. The tightness of this fastener does not affect the stud pattern.I still wouldn't use them, but the wheel load is clearly passed through all four original bolt locations within the hub.
doogz said:
I don't see a 'big screw'
I'm confused. Does someone think the centrebore of the adaptor is tapped, and screws onto the hub?
The "big screw" in this case is the one with the large circular collar that has a threaded hole for the wheel bolt. The adapter plate has a matching sized hole so it fits over the "big screw", and the big screw therefore provides no clamping force on the adapter plate. However, it still allows the wheel bolt to be done up securely.I'm confused. Does someone think the centrebore of the adaptor is tapped, and screws onto the hub?
Just to confirm, you are looking at the product linked in JB!'s post above aren't you? There are four "big screws" shown next to the four adapter plates.
Mr2Mike said:
The "big screw" in this case is the one with the large circular collar that has a threaded hole for the wheel bolt. The adapter plate has a matching sized hole so it fits over the "big screw", and the big screw therefore provides no clamping force on the adapter plate. However, it still allows the wheel bolt to be done up securely.
Just to confirm, you are looking at the product linked in JB!'s post above aren't you? There are four "big screws" shown next to the four adapter plates.
Yes, but you can't tighten the "big screw" in!!!Just to confirm, you are looking at the product linked in JB!'s post above aren't you? There are four "big screws" shown next to the four adapter plates.
The hole in the head is off centre, to change PCD, therefore that HAS to be in the correct position for the new wheel to go on.
Anyway these are adapters not spacers, so I digress.
JB! said:
Yes, but you can't tighten the "big screw" in!!!
The hole in the head is off centre, to change PCD, therefore that HAS to be in the correct position for the new wheel to go on.
Right I understand now The hole in the head is off centre, to change PCD, therefore that HAS to be in the correct position for the new wheel to go on.
It seems a slightly pointless feature as the PCD will be fixed by the other holes in the adapter anyway?In any case this should ultimately make no difference, since you can still tighten the wheel bolt up within the head of the big screw, and the wheel itself will be clamping the adapter in that area.
Mr2Mike said:
Right I understand now It seems a slightly pointless feature as the PCD will be fixed by the other holes in the adapter anyway?
In any case this should ultimately make no difference, since you can still tighten the wheel bolt up within the head of the big screw, and the wheel itself will be clamping the adapter in that area.
No it won't, as the thread in the screw is offset, so you can't get a bolt in through your wheel unless you wind the screw to the correct place. It seems a slightly pointless feature as the PCD will be fixed by the other holes in the adapter anyway?In any case this should ultimately make no difference, since you can still tighten the wheel bolt up within the head of the big screw, and the wheel itself will be clamping the adapter in that area.
JB! said:
No it won't, as the thread in the screw is offset, so you can't get a bolt in through your wheel unless you wind the screw to the correct place.
Yes obviously, but what I said still stands. Big screw goes into hub, but can't be fully tightened because for some bizarre reason it's eccentric. Slip adapter over the top of the big screw, bolt adapter to hub via the other three bolts. Bolt wheel to adapter, four bolts going to adapter plate, the fifth going into the head of big screw. Wheel is now firmly attached at 5 points, and adapter is securely clamped to hub in the area around the big screw by the wheel itself (providing the head of the big screw is below the surface of the adapter plate, if it isn't you have bigger problems anyway).
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