981 failed mot - ball joints

[Slippydiff]

ATM said:

I had a little look under there and I can't figure out how to tighten the inner nut once the car is on the ground. What with me being a typically powerfully built ph'er.

I take it you’ll jack the car up and use axle stands ?
If so, you’ll have to jack up that corner either under the outer end of the coffin arm (ie under the outer balljoint) or the brake disc, until that corner is just lifted off the axle stand, then tighten the inner securing bolt.
Failing that, drop both front wheels on the front hubs and find some blocks of wood, bricks, breeze blocks, or a combination of all three, sufficiently high (and wide/long, strong enough) to drop the front wheels on to, to enable you to get under the car to tighten the inner coffin arm bolt.

[ianwayne]

You could put a trolley jack under the hub and compress the suspension, this simulates the wheel being on the ground. Don't completely lift the car off whatever stands you are using of course if you are under it!

[ATM]

I feel inspired now.

Thanks fellas

[IanG1]

Done a few of these and seem to remember the need for 16mm or 18mm ring spanners for the inner pivot bolt which are odd sizes not normally found in a normal set? worth checking before you start. Also my bottom ball joints were well stuck and needed one of the splitters where you wind a bolt to drive it apart. Even then I needed heat and constant taping with a hammer before they came apart.

[ATM]

4 hours and

[ATM]

ATM said:

4 hours and

Another 2 hours and the new one is on. Only thing I broke was this headlight level sensor maybe - or is it important like for yaw or what not?

[Slippydiff]

ATM said:

Another 2 hours and the new one is on. Only thing I broke was this headlight level sensor maybe - or is it important like for yaw or what not?

Well done !!

It's the headlamp level sensor linkage (assuming you have xenons)

[ATM]

Got a pic of the rear arm. It's next. Need to source the replacement first.

[ATM]

ATM said:

Got a pic of the rear arm. It's next. Need to source the replacement first.

So the rear arms match the front. I've ordered another.

I'll add a few pics just because I took loads and need to justify my new PH Guru like status for getting stuck into the job.

[ATM]

[ATM]

[ATM]

[ATM]

[ATM]

[ATM]

[ATM]

[ATM]

Splitter flew off soon after this one and I thought I'd never get it off. Was ready to give up.

[ATM]

This is how I finally got it off.

I removed the arm completely leaving just the ball joint. The black plastic under body you see was in the way. I just removed the screw from the clip you see and with a bit of persuasion (bending) the arm was free.

This allowed me to get a good purchase with the splitter.

[ATM]

IanG1 said:

Done a few of these and seem to remember the need for 16mm or 18mm ring spanners for the inner pivot bolt which are odd sizes not normally found in a normal set? worth checking before you start. Also my bottom ball joints were well stuck and needed one of the splitters where you wind a bolt to drive it apart. Even then I needed heat and constant taping with a hammer before they came apart.

Yes that splitter was exactly what I used thanks.

No heat and no tapping but I thought the splitter was going to break.

Inner bolt was 18 and 18.

Tuning fork bolt was 21 and 21.

[ATM]

All done outside in the car park