Discussion
Well Rubytoo is home and been introduced to Ruby!
What a car! Love it to bits already. Not sure how the 981 Boxster and this can feel so different when they are fundamentally the same car. This is raw and exciting every second, regardless of if you are pootling around or ragging it. It is about as fast as you could ever need and whilst the handling and traction is amazing you still see the TC light flashing when I don’t think I once saw that in the Boxster. Another 65bhp and 80kg less really make the difference. The ride is firm but makes it feel special because of it. The LSD can really be noticed and I am gonna have to relearn my driving approach to counter the understeer it creates (defo a trip to Chris Franklin is on the cards!). The brakes are immense with a great feel and firm pedal. Flicking through the history and it appears a 997GT3 master cylinder was fitted a few years back. Maybe that has something to do with it. The noise is lovely but without the PSE I think it could be a bit more from outside so may take a road trip to Carnewal in Belgium for one of their modded standard CR exhausts. The carbon seats are things of beauty and again sitting in them makes it feel special. It deffo feels and drives like a baby GT3!
Feeling guilty after getting the 3.2 out of the garage for some photos I took her for a spin. Never fear. My love for that car is still well and truly intact. Just feels so right. A perfect complement to the CR in my book. Which one to the Alps next June? Not sure at the moment. Let’s see 😊
What a car! Love it to bits already. Not sure how the 981 Boxster and this can feel so different when they are fundamentally the same car. This is raw and exciting every second, regardless of if you are pootling around or ragging it. It is about as fast as you could ever need and whilst the handling and traction is amazing you still see the TC light flashing when I don’t think I once saw that in the Boxster. Another 65bhp and 80kg less really make the difference. The ride is firm but makes it feel special because of it. The LSD can really be noticed and I am gonna have to relearn my driving approach to counter the understeer it creates (defo a trip to Chris Franklin is on the cards!). The brakes are immense with a great feel and firm pedal. Flicking through the history and it appears a 997GT3 master cylinder was fitted a few years back. Maybe that has something to do with it. The noise is lovely but without the PSE I think it could be a bit more from outside so may take a road trip to Carnewal in Belgium for one of their modded standard CR exhausts. The carbon seats are things of beauty and again sitting in them makes it feel special. It deffo feels and drives like a baby GT3!
Feeling guilty after getting the 3.2 out of the garage for some photos I took her for a spin. Never fear. My love for that car is still well and truly intact. Just feels so right. A perfect complement to the CR in my book. Which one to the Alps next June? Not sure at the moment. Let’s see 😊
WingNut said:
This is raw and exciting every second, regardless of if you are pootling around or ragging it. It is about as fast as you could ever need and whilst the handling and traction is amazing you still see the TC light flashing when I don’t think I once saw that in the Boxster. Another 65bhp and 80kg less really make the difference. The ride is firm but makes it feel special because of it. The LSD can really be noticed and I am gonna have to relearn my driving approach to counter the understeer it creates (defo a trip to Chris Franklin is on the cards !). The brakes are immense with a great feel and firm pedal. Flicking through the history and it appears a 997GT3 master cylinder was fitted a few years back. Maybe that has something to do with it. The noise is lovely but without the PSE I think it could be a bit more from outside so may take a road trip to Carnewal in Belgium for one of their modded standard CR exhausts. The carbon seats are things of beauty and again sitting in them makes it feel special. It deffo feels and drives like a baby GT3 !
Glad to hear you're enjoying it. It was great car (apart from the seats ...)Don't think for one moment I'm disputing what you're saying, but I'm dubious the LSD is that effective. The car's done over 40K miles now, so the chances are the diff plates will have long since worn to the point they're unlikely to be providing much of the friction required to make the diff lock as intended.
See post 13 here :
https://www.planet-9.com/threads/limited-slip-diff...
I may of course be wrong (but the OE diff, and specifically the plates, aren't exactly known for their durability) so you may want to test the diff for pre-load.
If you want a decent quality LSD that will be durable and do what it says on the tin, you'll need to speak to these guys (or one of their agents) :
http://www.guardtransmissionllc.com/products/limit...
As for the understeer you're experiencing, I'd be looking at the tyres and geo set up (and possibly your driving style) if the understeer is that pronounced. Is the car still running Pilot Super Sport tyres ?
As for the brake pedal feel, I had the 997 GT3 master cylinder fitted, it had new front discs and pads fitted at the same time, and the old brake fluid was changed for Endless stuff. All documented in this thread :
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
The pedal went from a spongy, soggy thing that was confidence sapping when braking from 100 + Leptons, to the item you're currently experiencing.
Edited by Slippydiff on Monday 21st October 13:58
Hey everyone, been following this thread quite closely.
I'm potentially interested in a Cayman R as an option to get over an E92 M3 as my next car - I think the Cayman better suits what I'm after in a car (current I've got a Clio 197).
The JZM car peaked my interest - it seems like a tidy spec and fairly priced.
I've never actually been in a Porsche (or owned anything more expensive than the Clio). Has anyone here got a realistic breakdown of the running costs? I'd be using this car only on the weekend (I don't need to drive to commute to work). I'll keep the Clio for running around. Are there any good resources/maybe other forums which highlight things I should be looking out for etc?
I'm potentially interested in a Cayman R as an option to get over an E92 M3 as my next car - I think the Cayman better suits what I'm after in a car (current I've got a Clio 197).
The JZM car peaked my interest - it seems like a tidy spec and fairly priced.
I've never actually been in a Porsche (or owned anything more expensive than the Clio). Has anyone here got a realistic breakdown of the running costs? I'd be using this car only on the weekend (I don't need to drive to commute to work). I'll keep the Clio for running around. Are there any good resources/maybe other forums which highlight things I should be looking out for etc?
Slippydiff said:
As for the understeer you're experiencing, I'd be looking at the tyres and geo set up (and possibly your driving style) if the understeer is that pronounced. Is the car still running Pilot Super Sport tyres ?
As for the brake pedal feel, I had the 997 GT3 master cylinder fitted, it had new front discs and pads fitted at the same time,
Thanks Henry. As suggested I will be taking the car to Chris at Center Gravity for a full assessment and geo. He did a cracking job on my 911. Tyres are new Goodyear F1 put on by the previous owner after you. The understeer isn’t dramatic but noticeable. More so than in the 911 which was made me mention it as I was surprised. As for the brake pedal feel, I had the 997 GT3 master cylinder fitted, it had new front discs and pads fitted at the same time,
Edited by Slippydiff on Monday 21st October 13:58
911V has the pads and fluid changed so the textar pads and Endless fluid are long gone I’m afraid but the brakes are awesome!
WingNut said:
Thanks Henry. As suggested I will be taking the car to Chris at Center Gravity for a full assessment and geo. He did a cracking job on my 911. Tyres are new Goodyear F1 put on by the previous owner after you. The understeer isn’t dramatic but noticeable. More so than in the 911 which was made me mention it as I was surprised.
911V has the pads and fluid changed so the textar pads and Endless fluid are long gone I’m afraid but the brakes are awesome!
Chris is indeed your man (as you've found out).911V has the pads and fluid changed so the textar pads and Endless fluid are long gone I’m afraid but the brakes are awesome!
The very latest Goodyear F1's seem to get reasonably good reviews, though personally I'd fit Michelins every time, be they PS 4S or Super Sports, I think you'll find they'd transform the front end grip and initial turn in (but I be interested hear CF's views on the Goodyears...) but if Chris can engineer a solution (less toe in and a bit more camber) you can get your money's worth out of the Goodyears.
If Tom has had OE pads fitted, they'll quite possibly be Textar (they're part of the Pagid group now) so you should be experiencing what I experienced after the brake overhaul I detailed in my other thread.
The Endless fluid is good stuff (F1 standard) but is more hydroscopic than the likes of SRF, Ate Blue, Motul etc, so you're probably better off with the fluid you've got in there now, especially if you're sticking to the manufacturers recommended fluid change intervals.
All in all, it's a cracking little thing. Let me know if you need any further info on the car.
Here's an image from my first proper outing to N.Wales in it (and a few others) :
Evo Triangle :
Cotswolds :
Silverstone :
Tom and Co taking it away ...
To the owner of the new Red car , are you getting turn in issues or mid bend understeer ?
As these mid engine cars really do fair a lot better than 911's regarding understeer issues.
F1's are an ok tyre, not great but OK, my last Cayman R had them on, I tried them for a bit but gave in to PS4S half worn. I do feel how ever that the side walls in the PS4S are a bit stiff for a car as light as the R, so I found running 2psi less all round than normal sorted that a bit, PSS were a better summer tyre I feel. The PS4S does offer great wet weather grip and good turn in though and really is the best all round tyre available today imo.
I would recommend any R owner, and I have never heard a bad thing coming from my advice only positive feed back on this, is to fit spacers up front only, say 7mm or even 10mm per side.
the issue with maxing out geo on an oem R is you are doing it from the wrong end ie the top mount, so you are pulling the wheel in reducing track !
on my car I fitted GT3 LCA arms and that pushes the bottom of the wheel out, this also increases track avoiding the need for spacers, mine is 28MM wider at the front sans spacers this allowed me to put 5mm spacers at the rear each side for a full wider track over all while maintaining the front wider track over the rear for turn in.
Sadly oem you will only get max -1.2 on the car and imo that's still not enough for very fast road use, but -1.2 camber along with 20mm wider front track will be enough to transform the car. My last R ran that and was a great daily drive. That set would allow you to fit 5mm spacers at the rear which makes the car more stable if you then found turn in was too fast. But with F1 I doubt that will happen, PS4S esp In the 1st 5k miles have amazing turn in on that outter edge, that does subside even though the tyres are 1/4 worn though.
watch the rear camber at any geo place, the rear ARB is quite stiff on the R and thus adding a lot of extra rear camber just produces less rubber on the tarmac ! I would even say on a OEM car keep the rear at oem settings. And to reduce wheel hop fit some rear monoball toe links, as the car can wheel hop oem quite bad under power. Monoball toe links reduced that some what.
Have fun they are great cars to play about with and respone well to very fine tweaks.
As these mid engine cars really do fair a lot better than 911's regarding understeer issues.
F1's are an ok tyre, not great but OK, my last Cayman R had them on, I tried them for a bit but gave in to PS4S half worn. I do feel how ever that the side walls in the PS4S are a bit stiff for a car as light as the R, so I found running 2psi less all round than normal sorted that a bit, PSS were a better summer tyre I feel. The PS4S does offer great wet weather grip and good turn in though and really is the best all round tyre available today imo.
I would recommend any R owner, and I have never heard a bad thing coming from my advice only positive feed back on this, is to fit spacers up front only, say 7mm or even 10mm per side.
the issue with maxing out geo on an oem R is you are doing it from the wrong end ie the top mount, so you are pulling the wheel in reducing track !
on my car I fitted GT3 LCA arms and that pushes the bottom of the wheel out, this also increases track avoiding the need for spacers, mine is 28MM wider at the front sans spacers this allowed me to put 5mm spacers at the rear each side for a full wider track over all while maintaining the front wider track over the rear for turn in.
Sadly oem you will only get max -1.2 on the car and imo that's still not enough for very fast road use, but -1.2 camber along with 20mm wider front track will be enough to transform the car. My last R ran that and was a great daily drive. That set would allow you to fit 5mm spacers at the rear which makes the car more stable if you then found turn in was too fast. But with F1 I doubt that will happen, PS4S esp In the 1st 5k miles have amazing turn in on that outter edge, that does subside even though the tyres are 1/4 worn though.
watch the rear camber at any geo place, the rear ARB is quite stiff on the R and thus adding a lot of extra rear camber just produces less rubber on the tarmac ! I would even say on a OEM car keep the rear at oem settings. And to reduce wheel hop fit some rear monoball toe links, as the car can wheel hop oem quite bad under power. Monoball toe links reduced that some what.
Have fun they are great cars to play about with and respone well to very fine tweaks.
Edited by Porsche911R on Monday 21st October 17:55
Porsche911R said:
T
the issue with maxing out geo on an oem R is you are doing it from the wrong end ie the top mount, so you are pulling the wheel in reducing track !
on my car I fitted GT3 LCA arms and that pushes the bottom of the wheel out, this also increases track avoiding the need for spacers, mine is 28MM wider at the front sans spacers this allowed me to put 5mm spacers at the rear each side for a full wider track over all while maintaining the front wider track over the rear for turn in.
Sadly oem you will only get max -1.2 on the car and imo that's still not enough for very fast road use, but -1.2 camber along with 20mm wider front track will be enough to transform the car. My last R ran that and was a great daily drive. That set would allow you to fit 5mm spacers at the rear which makes the car more stable if you then found turn in was too fast. But with F1 I doubt that will happen, PS4S esp In the 1st 5k miles have amazing turn in on that outter edge, that does subside even though the tyres are 1/4 worn though.
watch the rear camber at any geo place, the rear ARB is quite stiff on the R and thus adding a lot of extra rear camber just produces less rubber on the tarmac ! I would even say on a OEM car keep the rear at oem settings. And to reduce wheel hop fit some rear monoball toe links, as the car can wheel hop oem quite bad under power. Monoball toe links reduced that some what.
Have fun they are great cars to play about with and respone well to very fine tweaks.
Did you have to change more than just the LCAs and were they 996 or 997 ones? What sort of cost was involved when you did this?the issue with maxing out geo on an oem R is you are doing it from the wrong end ie the top mount, so you are pulling the wheel in reducing track !
on my car I fitted GT3 LCA arms and that pushes the bottom of the wheel out, this also increases track avoiding the need for spacers, mine is 28MM wider at the front sans spacers this allowed me to put 5mm spacers at the rear each side for a full wider track over all while maintaining the front wider track over the rear for turn in.
Sadly oem you will only get max -1.2 on the car and imo that's still not enough for very fast road use, but -1.2 camber along with 20mm wider front track will be enough to transform the car. My last R ran that and was a great daily drive. That set would allow you to fit 5mm spacers at the rear which makes the car more stable if you then found turn in was too fast. But with F1 I doubt that will happen, PS4S esp In the 1st 5k miles have amazing turn in on that outter edge, that does subside even though the tyres are 1/4 worn though.
watch the rear camber at any geo place, the rear ARB is quite stiff on the R and thus adding a lot of extra rear camber just produces less rubber on the tarmac ! I would even say on a OEM car keep the rear at oem settings. And to reduce wheel hop fit some rear monoball toe links, as the car can wheel hop oem quite bad under power. Monoball toe links reduced that some what.
Have fun they are great cars to play about with and respone well to very fine tweaks.
Edited by Porsche911R on Monday 21st October 17:55
What geo did you run on the last car without the LCAs and with just spacers? I find my R is using the inside of the rears more than desireable but unfortunately can't find the sheet of paper from when it had the geo last done.
PaulD86 said:
Did you have to change more than just the LCAs and were they 996 or 997 ones? What sort of cost was involved when you did this?
What geo did you run on the last car without the LCAs and with just spacers? I find my R is using the inside of the rears more than desireable but unfortunately can't find the sheet of paper from when it had the geo last done.
RSS ones, I don't remember the rear camber, but 99% geo shops put too much rear camber on all GT products imo !What geo did you run on the last car without the LCAs and with just spacers? I find my R is using the inside of the rears more than desireable but unfortunately can't find the sheet of paper from when it had the geo last done.
do a chalk test and you use 6/8ths of the rear tyre !!! and as you notice the inners get worn !
costs can vary depending what you want out of the car.
oem camber you might get -1.2 up front, it's just not quite enough !! but double over oem, I would think most cayman R will have maxed out geo's by now in the 2nd hand market.
Porsche911R said:
RSS ones, I don't remember the rear camber, but 99% geo shops put too much rear camber on all GT products imo !
do a chalk test and you use 6/8ths of the rear tyre !!! and as you notice the inners get worn !
costs can vary depending what you want out of the car.
oem camber you might get -1.2 up front, it's just not quite enough !! but double over oem, I would think most cayman R will have maxed out geo's by now in the 2nd hand market.
Just a thought/word of warning. do a chalk test and you use 6/8ths of the rear tyre !!! and as you notice the inners get worn !
costs can vary depending what you want out of the car.
oem camber you might get -1.2 up front, it's just not quite enough !! but double over oem, I would think most cayman R will have maxed out geo's by now in the 2nd hand market.
On the basis of my recent experiences, I honestly couldn’t recommend fitting RSS , Tarrett, or Elephant Racing aftermarket suspension components.
If you’re going this route, give serious thought to buying the correct Motorsport components from the Motorsport department.
You’ll need to find someone in the UK that deals with/has an account with the MD, and rest assured the parts aren’t cheap, but they are far, far superior and more durable than the components the Yanks produce.
Slippydiff said:
Just a thought/word of warning.
On the basis of my recent experiences, I honestly couldn’t recommend fitting RSS , Tarrett, or Elephant Racing aftermarket suspension components.
If you’re going this route, give serious thought to buying the correct Motorsport components from the Motorsport department.
You’ll need to find someone in the UK that deals with/has an account with the MD, and rest assured the parts aren’t cheap, but they are far, far superior and more durable than the components the Yanks produce.
I buy cup parts where possible infact my GT3 only has cup parts on it, but have had no issues with RSS parts and you can swap out the moonballs no issue.On the basis of my recent experiences, I honestly couldn’t recommend fitting RSS , Tarrett, or Elephant Racing aftermarket suspension components.
If you’re going this route, give serious thought to buying the correct Motorsport components from the Motorsport department.
You’ll need to find someone in the UK that deals with/has an account with the MD, and rest assured the parts aren’t cheap, but they are far, far superior and more durable than the components the Yanks produce.
You can download the CUP PDF parts list and order any part from any OPC the parts just take 2 weeks over the retail next day parts.
if anything CUP parts are 1/2 the price as they are subsidised and for racing , so no retail daft prices, CUP disks, LCA's ends, toe links etc all 1/2 the price of GT3 RS ones.
So not sure why you say they are not cheap, it's the total opposite Porsche don't rip off their race teams like retail sales.
what you will find though is CUP parts are not weather sealed, I guess they are throw away items for racing (hence how cheap they are).
Are they better parts , not really, cup disks wear faster and are thinner, but again cheap as chips and get thrown away every race.
RSS parts are very robust and in the main totally weather sealed to last more than one race meeting and totally serviceable , like wise AP disks, over cup ones etc etc.
Have you had an issue with an RSS part ? I think the quality is 2nd to none personally. (they had early issue 12 years back as any new product does)
but seem pretty solid items. And never seen or heard of a failure and in this day an age that's rare on forums.
And don't be fooled into thinking CUP parts are German, most are made in China now days like any thing it seems.
while this is not a cup arm, it's there to see the difference between the 2 items.
Edited by Porsche911R on Tuesday 22 October 10:43
Slippydiff said:
Just a thought/word of warning.
On the basis of my recent experiences, I honestly couldn’t recommend fitting RSS , Tarrett, or Elephant Racing aftermarket suspension components.
If you’re going this route, give serious thought to buying the correct Motorsport components from the Motorsport department.
You’ll need to find someone in the UK that deals with/has an account with the MD, and rest assured the parts aren’t cheap, but they are far, far superior and more durable than the components the Yanks produce.
Apologies if i missed it, but what issue did you have the RSS parts?On the basis of my recent experiences, I honestly couldn’t recommend fitting RSS , Tarrett, or Elephant Racing aftermarket suspension components.
If you’re going this route, give serious thought to buying the correct Motorsport components from the Motorsport department.
You’ll need to find someone in the UK that deals with/has an account with the MD, and rest assured the parts aren’t cheap, but they are far, far superior and more durable than the components the Yanks produce.
I have RSS tarmac arms as photographed above on my R and i have to agree with (911R) they appear to be beautifully finished items of very high quality. I've had nothing but good experience from their parts so far.
Porsche911R said:
I buy cup parts where possible infact my GT3 only has cup parts on it, but have had no issues with RSS parts and you can swap out the moonballs no issue.
You can download the CUP PDF parts list and order any part from any OPC the parts just take 2 weeks over the retail next day parts.
if anything CUP parts are 1/2 the price as they are subsidised and for racing , so no retail daft prices, CUP disks, LCA's ends, toe links etc all 1/2 the price of GT3 RS ones.
So not sure why you say they are not cheap, it's the total opposite Porsche don't rip off their race teams like retail sales.
what you will find though is CUP parts are not weather sealed, I guess they are throw away items for racing (hence how cheap they are).
Are they better parts , not really, cup disks wear faster and are thinner, but again cheap as chips and get thrown away every race.
RSS parts are very robust and in the main totally weather sealed to last more than one race meeting and totally serviceable , like wise AP disks, over cup ones etc etc.
Have you had an issue with an RSS part ? I think the quality is 2nd to none personally. (they had early issue 12 years back as any new product does)
but seem pretty solid items. And never seen or heard of a failure and in this day an age that's rare on forums.
while this is not a cup arm, it's there to see the difference between the 2 items.
[pic]http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu90/StuttgartAM/Southern%20Fried%20GT3RS/rss_2011rs_troy_1.jpg
As with anything manufactured by the VAG group, the quality of the Motorsport parts has deteriorated as costs (or cost cutting) has become more of a consideration.You can download the CUP PDF parts list and order any part from any OPC the parts just take 2 weeks over the retail next day parts.
if anything CUP parts are 1/2 the price as they are subsidised and for racing , so no retail daft prices, CUP disks, LCA's ends, toe links etc all 1/2 the price of GT3 RS ones.
So not sure why you say they are not cheap, it's the total opposite Porsche don't rip off their race teams like retail sales.
what you will find though is CUP parts are not weather sealed, I guess they are throw away items for racing (hence how cheap they are).
Are they better parts , not really, cup disks wear faster and are thinner, but again cheap as chips and get thrown away every race.
RSS parts are very robust and in the main totally weather sealed to last more than one race meeting and totally serviceable , like wise AP disks, over cup ones etc etc.
Have you had an issue with an RSS part ? I think the quality is 2nd to none personally. (they had early issue 12 years back as any new product does)
but seem pretty solid items. And never seen or heard of a failure and in this day an age that's rare on forums.
while this is not a cup arm, it's there to see the difference between the 2 items.
[pic]http://i636.photobucket.com/albums/uu90/StuttgartAM/Southern%20Fried%20GT3RS/rss_2011rs_troy_1.jpg
You’re talking 991 Cup parts I assume, I was referring more specifically to 996/986/997/987 parts.
The issue with the American brands isn’t so much the CNC machined parts, rather it’s the quality (or lack thereof) of the monoballs and spherical bearings they utilise.
Porsche Motorsport historically used high quality Hirschmann bearings, as I understand it, the Yanks all use the same US bearing supplier, and they are inferior to those of the German supplier.
My experience of Elephant Racing products is that they’re poor quality, and that whilst the monoballs are replaceable, the costs are exhorbitant (and why not, they have a nice captive market) , and the parts/seals are poorly designed.
I’m running RSS Cup rear toe links currently, but I’ve seen RSS coffin arms that have worn and then the ball joints have articulated to the degree they’ve damaged the body of the coffin arm surrounding the ball joints.
The 996/7 Cup parts utilise the stock fully sealed outer balljoint, that item will far outlast the cheap bearings the Americans use, the downside being that when the stock ball joint does fail, you have to bin the arm (unless Hartech do a replacement that enables you to re-use the coffin arm ?)
Slippydiff said:
As with anything manufactured by the VAG group, the quality of the Motorsport parts has deteriorated as costs (or cost cutting) has become more of a consideration.
You’re talking 991 Cup parts I assume, I was referring more specifically to 996/986/997/987 parts.
The issue with the American brands isn’t so much the CNC machined parts, rather it’s the quality (or lack thereof) of the monoballs and spherical bearings they utilise.
Porsche Motorsport historically used high quality Hirschmann bearings, as I understand it, the Yanks all use the same US bearing supplier, and they are inferior to those of the German supplier.
My experience of Elephant Racing products is that they’re poor quality, and that whilst the monoballs are replaceable, the costs are exhorbitant (and why not, they have a nice captive market) , and the parts/seals are poorly designed.
I’m running RSS Cup rear toe links currently, but I’ve seen RSS coffin arms that have worn and then the ball joints have articulated to the degree they’ve damaged the body of the coffin arm surrounding the ball joints.
The 996/7 Cup parts utilise the stock fully sealed outer balljoint, that item will far outlast the cheap bearings the Americans use, the downside being that when the stock ball joint does fail, you have to bin the arm (unless Hartech do a replacement that enables you to re-use the coffin arm ?)
I think my monoballs in my ARMs are UK supplied and of a much higher quality, not an RSS part no.You’re talking 991 Cup parts I assume, I was referring more specifically to 996/986/997/987 parts.
The issue with the American brands isn’t so much the CNC machined parts, rather it’s the quality (or lack thereof) of the monoballs and spherical bearings they utilise.
Porsche Motorsport historically used high quality Hirschmann bearings, as I understand it, the Yanks all use the same US bearing supplier, and they are inferior to those of the German supplier.
My experience of Elephant Racing products is that they’re poor quality, and that whilst the monoballs are replaceable, the costs are exhorbitant (and why not, they have a nice captive market) , and the parts/seals are poorly designed.
I’m running RSS Cup rear toe links currently, but I’ve seen RSS coffin arms that have worn and then the ball joints have articulated to the degree they’ve damaged the body of the coffin arm surrounding the ball joints.
The 996/7 Cup parts utilise the stock fully sealed outer balljoint, that item will far outlast the cheap bearings the Americans use, the downside being that when the stock ball joint does fail, you have to bin the arm (unless Hartech do a replacement that enables you to re-use the coffin arm ?)
That's the advantage of strippable parts.I'll have to find out now what I have as it had slipped my mind this was done.
it was 7 years back and I have not had to do anything with them to date. bar a clean and spay with an oil based protector.
Also the 996 part number is a 991.2 part number it just gets a new revision, monoball ends are now on a F I think.
So you are NOT ordering a 996 cup part these days as the parts are all backward compatible.
I ordered a E part, OPC got confused as a F revision part arrived which would fit your car from 1999 or my car from 2018.
Edited by Porsche911R on Tuesday 22 October 12:01
Porsche911R said:
I think my monoballs in my ARMs are UK supplied and of a much higher quality, not an RSS part no.
That's the advantage of strippable parts.I'll have to find out now what I have as it had slipped my mind this was done.
it was 7 years back and I have not had to do anything with them to date. bar a clean and spay with an oil based protector.
Also the 996 part number is a 991.2 part number it just gets a new revision, monoball ends are now on a F I think.
So you are NOT ordering a 996 cup part these days as the parts are all backward compatible.
I ordered a E part, OPC got confused as a F revision part arrived which would fit your car from 1999 or my car from 2018.
My car has pretty much the complete Elephant Racing 996 catalogue of coffin arms, thrust arms and dogbones. Whilst the ability to run a "widetrack" set up is beneficial (and I do) the quality of the bearings is an issue. I've replaced several of the dogbone spherical bearings with Japanese Aurora items which seem to be better quality than the US originals.That's the advantage of strippable parts.I'll have to find out now what I have as it had slipped my mind this was done.
it was 7 years back and I have not had to do anything with them to date. bar a clean and spay with an oil based protector.
Also the 996 part number is a 991.2 part number it just gets a new revision, monoball ends are now on a F I think.
So you are NOT ordering a 996 cup part these days as the parts are all backward compatible.
I ordered a E part, OPC got confused as a F revision part arrived which would fit your car from 1999 or my car from 2018.
The car came with a set of these fitted ;
https://www.porscheshop.co.uk/elephant-racing-bump...
At 8k miles one had failed (excess play) whilst the other had seized to the degree the suspension wouldn't articulate properly ...
I contacted Elephant (you're not supposed to, as they only supply approved dealers or businesses (a bit like Guard Transmissions) and asked if they'd supply me with kits to rebuild the arms. They told they don't supply overhaul kits for these particular arms, but they would give me 10% discount if I purchased a new pair off them ... Fat chance !!! Suffice to say they went straight in the bin to be replaced with OE Porsche items.
As the bearings fail in the dogbones, coffin arms and thrust arms I'll most likely replace them with better quality bearings, but when the balljoints fail in the coffin arms I'll replace them with the equivalent Motor Sport/Cup parts.
Slippydiff said:
My car has pretty much the complete Elephant Racing 996 catalogue of coffin arms, thrust arms and dogbones. Whilst the ability to run a "widetrack" set up is beneficial (and I do) the quality of the bearings is an issue. I've replaced several of the dogbone spherical bearings with Japanese Aurora items which seem to be better quality than the US originals.
The car came with a set of these fitted ;
https://www.porscheshop.co.uk/elephant-racing-bump...
At 8k miles one had failed (excess play) whilst the other had seized to the degree the suspension wouldn't articulate properly ...
I contacted Elephant (you're not supposed to, as they only supply approved dealers or businesses (a bit like Guard Transmissions) and asked if they'd supply me with kits to rebuild the arms. They told they don't supply overhaul kits for these particular arms, but they would give me 10% discount if I purchased a new pair off them ... Fat chance !!! Suffice to say they went straight in the bin to be replaced with OE Porsche items.
As the bearings fail in the dogbones, coffin arms and thrust arms I'll most likely replace them with better quality bearings, but when the balljoints fail in the coffin arms I'll replace them with the equivalent Motor Sport/Cup parts.
which will be made in China 991.2 parts :-)The car came with a set of these fitted ;
https://www.porscheshop.co.uk/elephant-racing-bump...
At 8k miles one had failed (excess play) whilst the other had seized to the degree the suspension wouldn't articulate properly ...
I contacted Elephant (you're not supposed to, as they only supply approved dealers or businesses (a bit like Guard Transmissions) and asked if they'd supply me with kits to rebuild the arms. They told they don't supply overhaul kits for these particular arms, but they would give me 10% discount if I purchased a new pair off them ... Fat chance !!! Suffice to say they went straight in the bin to be replaced with OE Porsche items.
As the bearings fail in the dogbones, coffin arms and thrust arms I'll most likely replace them with better quality bearings, but when the balljoints fail in the coffin arms I'll replace them with the equivalent Motor Sport/Cup parts.
I had tarrett on my GT4, you deal with the owner, you buy direct, I had an issue , he sent out a new part straight away.
So RSS and Tarrett have been 100% perfect and sound for me. And you can buy spares and bearing also direct.
you had issues with "Elephant" but tared the same bush stating RSS and Tarett were iffy ! when you have NOT used their parts.
I don't use places like https://www.porscheshop.co.uk they seem the lower end of the market and don't really sell anything hi end I found.
RSS, Kline, Ohlins etc etc not on their site.
you car sorry to say sounded like a lemon all told, and took a lot of work and a new engine to even be able to use it.
But I would have no issue recommending RSS parts that's for sure, but they do cost a lot more.
CUP parts well you pick and choose, but don't be fooled into thinking a 996 part still is available because it's not.
You cannot buy CUP part spares either, so totally unrebuildable.
Edited by Porsche911R on Tuesday 22 October 13:35
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