Discussion
lastexile69 said:
barchetta_boy said:
The standard ratios are laughably long, 2nd tops out at 82mph, 3rd at 114 from memory. I’m having RPM Teknik change the crown wheel and pinion to make all ratios 14% shorter, and then fitting a longer 6th so 6th will stay roughly as it is. Should transform the car
This mod must surely be one of the most anticipated in Porsche history! Each to their own of course and I know many owners on here are dismissive of the much maligned long gearing and consider it a non-issue.
From what I've read even speccing the PDK version doesn't really shorten the gearing much so a reliable retrofit from a reputable outfit like RPM might just be the solution many folk are looking for that enables keeping the joy of a manual but with more access to the higher rev ranges of that awesome powerplant without doing autobahn spec speeds!
I really hope this transforms the car and look forward to hearing your impressions of the results. Do you mind if I ask when you might be getting this done?
Billy_Whizzzz said:
FWIW I like the gearing (manual) exactly as it is.
Me too. I’d want an extended drive in a modified car to fully understand what I was committing to. On a newer car you’ve compromised the drivetrain warranty for you and future owners by such a significant change too.
Billy_Whizzzz said:
FWIW I like the gearing (manual) exactly as it is.
I used to think the same about my 996 GT3 until I had a passenger ride in another 996 GT3 with Cup Final Drive (8:32) fitted. My car wasn’t exactly slow (9.3s 0-100mph) or ‘dull’ but the other car was just so much more explosive and exciting.Prior to the passenger ride, I was worried that Cup Final Drive would make the car not as nice to drive as a road car, but in fact the mod was well suited to the car’s character and made road driving even more involving and fun. The only things I did not like was the rpm at motorway speed (4k rpm @70mph) thus reducing the car’s touring range from 400+ miles to around 320 miles.
So in the end I opted for Cup Final Drive with 996 turbo 6th gear (bringing the rpm down to 2.8k @70 mph), plus LWFW, 4.0RS clutch etc. (Sports and Classic at Macclesfield did the work)
I use my car mainly for B-road, road trips and maybe 4-6 TDs per year, the mods have enhanced all aspects of the driving experience with little downside.
Obviously for newer cars the owners will have to think about voiding Porsche warranty etc
@ barchetta_boy beautiful car and you’ll love the mod.
Athboy501 said:
First Sea Lord said:
Yep. Dealer told me that nobody chooses it, which I thought was surprising.They're great cars. Have had mine for 2 weeks but only managed to drive it properly today. Really fun to drive.
First Sea Lord said:
Athboy501 said:
First Sea Lord said:
Yep. Dealer told me that nobody chooses it, which I thought was surprising.They're great cars. Have had mine for 2 weeks but only managed to drive it properly today. Really fun to drive.
barchetta_boy said:
It doesn’t mention running in in the manual
Really? My 718 Cayman has a recommendation to run in for 1865 miles in the manual (page 12). Pretty sure my 981 GT4 has the same, but don't have the manual to hand.The recommended 4000 rpm limit for the whole period seems pretty extreme. I generally go with first 500 miles limited to 4000 rpm, increase to 4500 rpm, then add another 500 rpm for every 100 miles completed. I try to vary load and engine speed as much as possible within the rev limits. From 1000 miles I no longer worry about rev limits, but try to stay off the rev limiter, and continue to vary load and engine speed.
I'm always careful to keep revs down until the engine is throughly warmed up (that means oil as well as water), but especially so when the engine is relatively new. (718 seems to have a warning buzzer to remind me of this...) I also avoid short journeys when running in, which is echoed in the Porsche recommendations.
There's plenty of internet wisdom that tells everyone running in is entirely unnecessary nowadays. Also plenty of dealers that say just give it plenty of stick from day 1, it will be fine. In a former life I used to develop and test engines and engine management systems, so I have run in literally many scores, probably into the hundreds of high performance and race engines. They all have their individual quirks, but most need the revs to be kept down for the first 30-60 minutes, and then built up with some variation of engine speed and load. Chevrolet and Ford V8s, small or big-block, really did (probably still do) need 5 or 6 hours under carefully controlled load and temperatures to be sure they weren't going to suffer from piston ring blow-by or glazed bearings. Cosworth and Judd V8s could be ready for engine management calibration and power testing after 25-30 minutes running in. Occasionally we'd find the rings wouldn't bed into the cylinders fast enough, and wish we had taken a bit more time over it all. When rebuilds are frequent and expensive, most try to avoid excessive dyno hours, but everything got run in, always.
I have seen a few problems that could have been averted with more careful running in, having had too many revs too early. Some were pretty serious. I've probably seen as many where an engine was "babied" for 1000 miles, never getting under any proper load to get some gas pressure on the piston rings. Those end up not being the best for power, and tend to use a little more oil than they ought to. I fear my GT4 (which had about 7500 miles on it when I bought it) probably falls into the former camp. Hopefully it's the latter, and oil consumption will drop to around zero, which is what I expect from any engine I have run in.
Sorry, long post responding to a short one. Even if Porsche have dropped running in from the 718 GTS 4.0 manual, you can do absolutely no harm by giving moving parts some time to get properly acquainted with each other at normal running temperatures.
Liam
Edited by LiamH66 on Sunday 20th March 22:35
Edited by LiamH66 on Sunday 20th March 22:54
BarrySt said:
Rob P said:
I fear the 1800 mile run in period will be a serious test in restraint! Mine should be with be end of next week, can’t wait…
My dealer told me that no running-in was necessary. Where did you get the 1800 mile info?In a new vehicle, the moving parts first have to be run in with each other. The first 3,000 km (1,865 miles) are required for this. The oil and fuel consumption may be somewhat higher than normal during this time.
Drive as follows during the running-in period:
▸
Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances.
▸
Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
▸
Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revolutions per minute. Drive at low speeds when the engine is cold.
Rob P said:
The manual says you do:
In a new vehicle, the moving parts first have to be run in with each other. The first 3,000 km (1,865 miles) are required for this. The oil and fuel consumption may be somewhat higher than normal during this time.
Drive as follows during the running-in period:
?
Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances.
?
Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
?
Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revolutions per minute. Drive at low speeds when the engine is cold.
Thanks, good to know there is something official although you must have read through the manual page by page to find it as I couldn't see any relevant section and nothing in the index for "running in", so thanks again. About another 700 miles still to go then for me!In a new vehicle, the moving parts first have to be run in with each other. The first 3,000 km (1,865 miles) are required for this. The oil and fuel consumption may be somewhat higher than normal during this time.
Drive as follows during the running-in period:
?
Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances.
?
Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
?
Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revolutions per minute. Drive at low speeds when the engine is cold.
BarrySt said:
Thanks, good to know there is something official although you must have read through the manual page by page to find it as I couldn't see any relevant section and nothing in the index for "running in", so thanks again. About another 700 miles still to go then for me!
It’s hidden away in the Good to Know app![](https://thumbsnap.com/sc/FfHRA8hu.jpg)
BarrySt said:
Rob P said:
The manual says you do:
In a new vehicle, the moving parts first have to be run in with each other. The first 3,000 km (1,865 miles) are required for this. The oil and fuel consumption may be somewhat higher than normal during this time.
Drive as follows during the running-in period:
?
Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances.
?
Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
?
Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revolutions per minute. Drive at low speeds when the engine is cold.
Thanks, good to know there is something official although you must have read through the manual page by page to find it as I couldn't see any relevant section and nothing in the index for "running in", so thanks again. About another 700 miles still to go then for me!In a new vehicle, the moving parts first have to be run in with each other. The first 3,000 km (1,865 miles) are required for this. The oil and fuel consumption may be somewhat higher than normal during this time.
Drive as follows during the running-in period:
?
Preferably take longer trips. If possible, avoid frequent cold starts with short distances.
?
Do not participate in motor racing events, sports driving schools, or similar.
?
Avoid high speeds of over 4,000 revolutions per minute. Drive at low speeds when the engine is cold.
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