Educate me on waxoil/ preventative measures.
Discussion
rlw said:
Waxoyl is not a good idea. There are newer, better, lighter treatments out there which last longer,so do a bit of research first. Practical Classics did a long term test of these and revealed the results a year or so ago and Waxoyl was not top 5 even.
I had the arches of my CLK done with one of the top products on the same basis as you are looking to treat your car. I will see if I still have the magazine.
Thanks would be interesting.I had the arches of my CLK done with one of the top products on the same basis as you are looking to treat your car. I will see if I still have the magazine.
Edited by rlw on Wednesday 3rd September 14:30
Will look up bilth hamber
Also thinking it may be a good idea to get somebody to do it. Assumed you just sprayed it on and went for a cuppa.
mark.c said:
Google Bilth Hamber, really good stuff and a leap forward over waxoyl. I've just sunk 6 tins into my old E12 M535i and 993.
These two look good.http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-s50
This one is clear so answers another question as rear wheel arches are blue. Also says ok for suspension.
http://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-uc
mark.c said:
It all depends on the condition of the surface that you are trying to protect, clearly if it's rusty and flakey then there would be little benefit in spraying it on compared to preparing the surface for the new coating. If your planning on doing the floor pans and wheel arches of your 964 etc and they are sound with just years of road grime then a thorough clean ( allowing it to dry fully) should be sufficient , if there is rot then obviously this needs dealing with first. So your assumption is partially right, it just depends what area and condition of area you are doing.
As an aside, we don't throw px24 down our gas turbines anymore, even the ones still left in service.
All panels good. No rust I can see.( except jacking points) I have surface rust on things like drive shafts and suspension arms. That clear high temp stuff should be good for that.As an aside, we don't throw px24 down our gas turbines anymore, even the ones still left in service.
Edited by mark.c on Thursday 4th September 13:01
I just want to keep it this way. Best I can.
roygarth said:
I would brush surface rust off as much as possible with electric/wire brush and apply a quality rust killer/converter before applying relevant Bilt Hamber.
Thanks have ordered some rust removing gel and some wire brushes for drill.ClarkPB said:
I did the underside of my 996 GT3 last winter with Dynax UC. I've got pics I can upload if you want to see some.
Would be grateful, thanks.Had a good poke around Sunday. Nothing I can see but didn't remove shark fins. I know one side is fine though. Haven't got a problem in the usual rear window spot. Underneath main body looked perfect.
Brake pipes don't though
What I'm assuming is the rear geo adjustment gubings had surface rust on. Applied a removing gel and the clear hi temp wax.
As for the rest of the car I don't think it's something I can do without a pit or lift to do it properly
Brake pipes don't though
What I'm assuming is the rear geo adjustment gubings had surface rust on. Applied a removing gel and the clear hi temp wax.
As for the rest of the car I don't think it's something I can do without a pit or lift to do it properly
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