Discussion
bob1179 said:
The 2.0 engine is not a Honda engine, it is the T-Series engine as used in the 220, 420 and 820. The cars were all fitted with both the N/A and turbocharged version.
IIRC the N/A engine produced around 134bhp and the turbo version 197bhp.
Anyway, just thought I'd mention that, as you were gentlemen.
Wasnt the T-series the 2.0 turbo, not the 2.0 N/aIIRC the N/A engine produced around 134bhp and the turbo version 197bhp.
Anyway, just thought I'd mention that, as you were gentlemen.
RobCrezz said:
bob1179 said:
The 2.0 engine is not a Honda engine, it is the T-Series engine as used in the 220, 420 and 820. The cars were all fitted with both the N/A and turbocharged version.
IIRC the N/A engine produced around 134bhp and the turbo version 197bhp.
Anyway, just thought I'd mention that, as you were gentlemen.
Wasnt the T-series the 2.0 turbo, not the 2.0 N/aIIRC the N/A engine produced around 134bhp and the turbo version 197bhp.
Anyway, just thought I'd mention that, as you were gentlemen.
I was wrong!
Edited by bob1179 on Thursday 6th November 14:15
As has already been mentioned non routine spares are a problem, especially for non Honda bits as it appears Cat Logistics who have the Rover spares contract CBA to source the low volume stuff. Slightly off topic there are similar issues with the Rover 75 too.
They're nice cars really, and at the kind of prices you can find them for they're fantastic VFM
They're nice cars really, and at the kind of prices you can find them for they're fantastic VFM
LHDisbest said:
ApexJimi said:
My girlfriend is going to be spending the most time driving this, so performance is not really a consideration.
The 1.8 and 2.0 turbo suffer from HGF as they are K-series engines 
, and the 2.3 isn't any quicker in the real world than the honda 2.0.Hi AJ, can you still see?
I can't be much help but I had a 620 Ti - bought from Rover in Glasgow in fact from new on the Rover employee scheme. Only cost about 12K I think. For hacking up and down the M6 it was great, a bit dull but great. It was that or a 200 VVC and I thought 197 bhp must be the fastest thing since lsiced bread. Ah.
I last saw it down here a couple of years after I got rid and IIRC it was on about 85K and seemed fine.
618 or 620 won't be as quick but should be quite a decent runabout all things being equal.
I can't be much help but I had a 620 Ti - bought from Rover in Glasgow in fact from new on the Rover employee scheme. Only cost about 12K I think. For hacking up and down the M6 it was great, a bit dull but great. It was that or a 200 VVC and I thought 197 bhp must be the fastest thing since lsiced bread. Ah.
I last saw it down here a couple of years after I got rid and IIRC it was on about 85K and seemed fine.
618 or 620 won't be as quick but should be quite a decent runabout all things being equal.
I had a 618Si for eight years and it was pretty much bomb-proof. I only got shot of it because it was uneconomical for the insurance firm to repair it after I got rear-ended. I sold it to a bodyshop worker who put it back on the road for next to nothing and was extemely pleased with it. The rear arches had started to rust a little (common fault), but aside from that it was sound at nearly 150k on the clock.
I ran a 620 Gsi for a couple of years and from a performance versus reliability compromise the 2.0 NA engine is the one to have. I would avoid the 618 personally, but each to their own.
Things to watch:
Rust - rear wheel arches is where it first appears. The rust can spread to the rear discs and seize the bolts hold the discs and calipers in place which is not an easy or cheap fix.
Cut out on warm start up - caused by a fuel relay which needs resoldering normally. Quite common and easy to fix.
Compressor type 'whirring' noises when driving - the ABS pump is leaking, avoid like the plague.
Radiators tend to get eaten by rust as well.
The drivetrain is extremely reliable, however the rover parts tend to wear out or rust around the 10 year mark. I had to replace the regulator on the drivers window which i wouldn't normally expect to have to do on a 10 year old car.
I was tempted to say it was reliable, but looking back it did spend quite a bit of time in the garage.
Things to watch:
Rust - rear wheel arches is where it first appears. The rust can spread to the rear discs and seize the bolts hold the discs and calipers in place which is not an easy or cheap fix.
Cut out on warm start up - caused by a fuel relay which needs resoldering normally. Quite common and easy to fix.
Compressor type 'whirring' noises when driving - the ABS pump is leaking, avoid like the plague.
Radiators tend to get eaten by rust as well.
The drivetrain is extremely reliable, however the rover parts tend to wear out or rust around the 10 year mark. I had to replace the regulator on the drivers window which i wouldn't normally expect to have to do on a 10 year old car.
I was tempted to say it was reliable, but looking back it did spend quite a bit of time in the garage.
Geoff82 said:
I ran a 620 Gsi for a couple of years and from a performance versus reliability compromise the 2.0 NA engine is the one to have. I would avoid the 618 personally, but each to their own.
Things to watch:
Rust - rear wheel arches is where it first appears. The rust can spread to the rear discs and seize the bolts hold the discs and calipers in place which is not an easy or cheap fix.
Cut out on warm start up - caused by a fuel relay which needs resoldering normally. Quite common and easy to fix.
Compressor type 'whirring' noises when driving - the ABS pump is leaking, avoid like the plague.
Radiators tend to get eaten by rust as well.
The drivetrain is extremely reliable, however the rover parts tend to wear out or rust around the 10 year mark. I had to replace the regulator on the drivers window which i wouldn't normally expect to have to do on a 10 year old car.
I was tempted to say it was reliable, but looking back it did spend quite a bit of time in the garage.
Funnily enough - the window regulator is a Honda part Things to watch:
Rust - rear wheel arches is where it first appears. The rust can spread to the rear discs and seize the bolts hold the discs and calipers in place which is not an easy or cheap fix.
Cut out on warm start up - caused by a fuel relay which needs resoldering normally. Quite common and easy to fix.
Compressor type 'whirring' noises when driving - the ABS pump is leaking, avoid like the plague.
Radiators tend to get eaten by rust as well.
The drivetrain is extremely reliable, however the rover parts tend to wear out or rust around the 10 year mark. I had to replace the regulator on the drivers window which i wouldn't normally expect to have to do on a 10 year old car.
I was tempted to say it was reliable, but looking back it did spend quite a bit of time in the garage.
Its quite a common fault on the Accord too.red_rover said:
Geoff82 said:
I ran a 620 Gsi for a couple of years and from a performance versus reliability compromise the 2.0 NA engine is the one to have. I would avoid the 618 personally, but each to their own.
Things to watch:
Rust - rear wheel arches is where it first appears. The rust can spread to the rear discs and seize the bolts hold the discs and calipers in place which is not an easy or cheap fix.
Cut out on warm start up - caused by a fuel relay which needs resoldering normally. Quite common and easy to fix.
Compressor type 'whirring' noises when driving - the ABS pump is leaking, avoid like the plague.
Radiators tend to get eaten by rust as well.
The drivetrain is extremely reliable, however the rover parts tend to wear out or rust around the 10 year mark. I had to replace the regulator on the drivers window which i wouldn't normally expect to have to do on a 10 year old car.
I was tempted to say it was reliable, but looking back it did spend quite a bit of time in the garage.
Funnily enough - the window regulator is a Honda part Things to watch:
Rust - rear wheel arches is where it first appears. The rust can spread to the rear discs and seize the bolts hold the discs and calipers in place which is not an easy or cheap fix.
Cut out on warm start up - caused by a fuel relay which needs resoldering normally. Quite common and easy to fix.
Compressor type 'whirring' noises when driving - the ABS pump is leaking, avoid like the plague.
Radiators tend to get eaten by rust as well.
The drivetrain is extremely reliable, however the rover parts tend to wear out or rust around the 10 year mark. I had to replace the regulator on the drivers window which i wouldn't normally expect to have to do on a 10 year old car.
I was tempted to say it was reliable, but looking back it did spend quite a bit of time in the garage.
Its quite a common fault on the Accord too.Geoff82 said:
red_rover said:
Geoff82 said:
I ran a 620 Gsi for a couple of years and from a performance versus reliability compromise the 2.0 NA engine is the one to have. I would avoid the 618 personally, but each to their own.
Things to watch:
Rust - rear wheel arches is where it first appears. The rust can spread to the rear discs and seize the bolts hold the discs and calipers in place which is not an easy or cheap fix.
Cut out on warm start up - caused by a fuel relay which needs resoldering normally. Quite common and easy to fix.
Compressor type 'whirring' noises when driving - the ABS pump is leaking, avoid like the plague.
Radiators tend to get eaten by rust as well.
The drivetrain is extremely reliable, however the rover parts tend to wear out or rust around the 10 year mark. I had to replace the regulator on the drivers window which i wouldn't normally expect to have to do on a 10 year old car.
I was tempted to say it was reliable, but looking back it did spend quite a bit of time in the garage.
Funnily enough - the window regulator is a Honda part Things to watch:
Rust - rear wheel arches is where it first appears. The rust can spread to the rear discs and seize the bolts hold the discs and calipers in place which is not an easy or cheap fix.
Cut out on warm start up - caused by a fuel relay which needs resoldering normally. Quite common and easy to fix.
Compressor type 'whirring' noises when driving - the ABS pump is leaking, avoid like the plague.
Radiators tend to get eaten by rust as well.
The drivetrain is extremely reliable, however the rover parts tend to wear out or rust around the 10 year mark. I had to replace the regulator on the drivers window which i wouldn't normally expect to have to do on a 10 year old car.
I was tempted to say it was reliable, but looking back it did spend quite a bit of time in the garage.
Its quite a common fault on the Accord too.
Just to add to what has been said above, if your not bothered about performance, the 618 is very cheap and has a totally bombproof honda engine. I've had 2 618's, the first one was a hand me down from my dad who bought it at auction @ 70k miles, used it as a taxi and gave it to me @ 160k miles, and i drove it like a 19 YO does to 215k miles.
Original clutch/gearbox/engine etc all stayed intact and the car still ran perfectly when i PX'd it.
If the front electric windows get slow/stiff, get some silicone on the window before they pop the runners. Nowt major just a pain taking the inside door to bits all the time!
If i ever need a cheap runabout again i will probably get another 600. Solid cars!
Ps try and get a run out model on a 98s reg onwards, they all had the Turbo's recaro half leather as standard.
Original clutch/gearbox/engine etc all stayed intact and the car still ran perfectly when i PX'd it.
If the front electric windows get slow/stiff, get some silicone on the window before they pop the runners. Nowt major just a pain taking the inside door to bits all the time!
If i ever need a cheap runabout again i will probably get another 600. Solid cars!
Ps try and get a run out model on a 98s reg onwards, they all had the Turbo's recaro half leather as standard.
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