Using the A110: Tips and Tricks
Discussion
7en said:
When changing from Track or Sport to Normal I'd like to switch into auto quickly, a long hold on the upshift paddle would be perfect but it doesn't seem to work in the '73 plate car I'm driving. Which model year do you drive?
Are you up-shifting twice with the long pull on the second?7en said:
Another gearbox related note - I find that when trying to use manual mode in everyday driving, particularly at slower speeds, the gearbox will drop 2 gears instead of the 1 selected. I understand that sometimes under braking the car may need to be in a lower gear than expected for the safety of the gearbox and will overide a manual selection. However often when shifting down 1 gear from 3rd at slow speeds, it'll change to 1st and the revs jump. It seems that shifting down within a certain time of the gear box deciding it will also change down causes 2 downshifts. I don't have a tip on how to avoid this, other than either trying to beat the gearbox to it or leave it to it.
Is that manual override rather than manual?? To get complete control push D when in auto so that it shows a blue surround for full manual. Hope I’m not teaching too much egg-sucking here!Edited by 7en on Thursday 8th February 20:28
Edited by Whaleblue on Thursday 8th February 21:23
7en said:
However often when shifting down 1 gear from 3rd at slow speeds, it'll change to 1st and the revs jump. It seems that shifting down within a certain time of the gear box deciding it will also change down causes 2 downshifts. I don't have a tip on how to avoid this, other than either trying to beat the gearbox to it or leave it to it.
I have a tip. I use Manual Mode 99% of the time whether on open roads or in traffic. Press the D button so it turns Blue.I do all the changes down to third, but I let the car change down to second or first as it sees fit. You simply don’t need to do those.
Try it. Let me know what you think.
(I appreciate that’s what you hinted at, but it’s a good answer - it works)
Edited by domrusty on Thursday 8th February 21:41
Edited by domrusty on Thursday 8th February 22:55
Whaleblue said:
7en said:
When changing from Track or Sport to Normal I'd like to switch into auto quickly, a long hold on the upshift paddle would be perfect but it doesn't seem to work in the '73 plate car I'm driving. Which model year do you drive?
Are you up-shifting twice with the long pull on the second?7en said:
Another gearbox related note - I find that when trying to use manual mode in everyday driving, particularly at slower speeds, the gearbox will drop 2 gears instead of the 1 selected. I understand that sometimes under braking the car may need to be in a lower gear than expected for the safety of the gearbox and will overide a manual selection. However often when shifting down 1 gear from 3rd at slow speeds, it'll change to 1st and the revs jump. It seems that shifting down within a certain time of the gear box deciding it will also change down causes 2 downshifts. I don't have a tip on how to avoid this, other than either trying to beat the gearbox to it or leave it to it.
Is that manual override rather than manual?? To get complete control push D when in auto so that it shows a blue surround for full manual. Hope I’m not teaching too much egg-sucking here!domrusty said:
7en said:
However often when shifting down 1 gear from 3rd at slow speeds, it'll change to 1st and the revs jump. It seems that shifting down within a certain time of the gear box deciding it will also change down causes 2 downshifts. I don't have a tip on how to avoid this, other than either trying to beat the gearbox to it or leave it to it.
I have a tip. I use Manual Mode 99% of the time whether on open roads or in traffic. Press the D button so it turns Blue.I do all the changes down to third, but I let the car change down to second or first as it sees fit. You simply don’t need to do those.
Try it. Let me know what you think.
(I appreciate that’s what you hinted at, but it’s a good answer - it works)
7en said:
I'm not sure if daily driving in manual will grow on me, so far I only really enjoy using the paddles during spirited driving as you get more feedback. When just driving around normally the automatic gearbox is so good it's hard to not just let it do its thing.
I did the same for the first 18 months, but as soon as I started using manual mode *all the time* I much preferred it, even in traffic. Once I’d stopped changing down below 3rd gear, I just really appreciated being fully in control - you quickly get familiar with the torque curve and you’re always in the right gear (combined with road sense, anticipation etc).I think switching between Auto and Manual is a hindrance - you’re not getting so accustomed to the sweet spots of the engine and gear ratios.
Standard (non Sport) mode is much more rewarding in Manual, where you can hold onto a ratio a bit longer. The auto box changes up so early you’re never quite in the responsive bit of the rev range. Even around town (not going fast) I prefer the extra precision and control.
Agree re: manual. I also prefer normal mode, because it is quiter (sport cat) and I also prefer smoother shifting, even when driving hard.
There's one trick/mod I have made to enjoy normal mode a bit more: I have kickdown disabled by adding rubber pedal stopper, so the button is never hit. This avoids all the unwanted kickdowns (especially annoying going into first gear) and just lets you enjoy the response and torque in the lower rpms.
There's one trick/mod I have made to enjoy normal mode a bit more: I have kickdown disabled by adding rubber pedal stopper, so the button is never hit. This avoids all the unwanted kickdowns (especially annoying going into first gear) and just lets you enjoy the response and torque in the lower rpms.
heisenberger said:
Agree re: manual. I also prefer normal mode, because it is quiter (sport cat) and I also prefer smoother shifting, even when driving hard.
There's one trick/mod I have made to enjoy normal mode a bit more: I have kickdown disabled by adding rubber pedal stopper, so the button is never hit. This avoids all the unwanted kickdowns (especially annoying going into first gear) and just lets you enjoy the response and torque in the lower rpms.
Where is this located and if you could expand on the effects of disabling please? There's one trick/mod I have made to enjoy normal mode a bit more: I have kickdown disabled by adding rubber pedal stopper, so the button is never hit. This avoids all the unwanted kickdowns (especially annoying going into first gear) and just lets you enjoy the response and torque in the lower rpms.
I've been driving mostly manual today and am enjoying it more and more, aiming to get to know the car better. I find downshifting around 1500rpm seems to beat the auto kickdown most times and can sometimes control every gear down to 1st. I did notice once downshifting from 4th, wanting 3rd and getting 2nd but was maybe moving slower than I realised so the TCU took over.
I also experimented safely with how to drop gears and take off while cruising. Selecting multiple downshifts to the lowest available gear works as expected, although can be an almost instant redline in the lowest gear, so have to be ready to change up straight away or the car will do it's little wobble. The most efficient take off with least lag I've experienced, is from around 30mph then pedal to the floor in Sport/auto.
7en said:
Where is this located and if you could expand on the effects of disabling please?
I've been driving mostly manual today and am enjoying it more and more, aiming to get to know the car better. I find downshifting around 1500rpm seems to beat the auto kickdown most times and can sometimes control every gear down to 1st. I did notice once downshifting from 4th, wanting 3rd and getting 2nd but was maybe moving slower than I realised so the TCU took over.
I also experimented safely with how to drop gears and take off while cruising. Selecting multiple downshifts to the lowest available gear works as expected, although can be an almost instant redline in the lowest gear, so have to be ready to change up straight away or the car will do it's little wobble. The most efficient take off with least lag I've experienced, is from around 30mph then pedal to the floor in Sport/auto.
Yes 1500 rpm does seem a critical value. Even on gentle throttle the gearbox doesn't upshift unless it will have at least 1500 rpm in the next gear (changes to 2nd or first excluded?)I've been driving mostly manual today and am enjoying it more and more, aiming to get to know the car better. I find downshifting around 1500rpm seems to beat the auto kickdown most times and can sometimes control every gear down to 1st. I did notice once downshifting from 4th, wanting 3rd and getting 2nd but was maybe moving slower than I realised so the TCU took over.
I also experimented safely with how to drop gears and take off while cruising. Selecting multiple downshifts to the lowest available gear works as expected, although can be an almost instant redline in the lowest gear, so have to be ready to change up straight away or the car will do it's little wobble. The most efficient take off with least lag I've experienced, is from around 30mph then pedal to the floor in Sport/auto.
I would add that off the mark Sport is noticeably quicker because the tickover speed is raised. It's not something you might only use in a full-on traffic light GP - but is REALLY helpful if you need to pull out quickly from a junction or getting onto a roundabout.
domrusty said:
7en said:
However often when shifting down 1 gear from 3rd at slow speeds, it'll change to 1st and the revs jump. It seems that shifting down within a certain time of the gear box deciding it will also change down causes 2 downshifts. I don't have a tip on how to avoid this, other than either trying to beat the gearbox to it or leave it to it.
I have a tip. I use Manual Mode 99% of the time whether on open roads or in traffic. Press the D button so it turns Blue.I do all the changes down to third, but I let the car change down to second or first as it sees fit. You simply don’t need to do those.
Try it. Let me know what you think.
(I appreciate that’s what you hinted at, but it’s a good answer - it works)
Edited by domrusty on Thursday 8th February 21:41
Edited by domrusty on Thursday 8th February 22:55
Also embarrassed to say I mostly drive in auto and the car sounds very different in manual, way better!
TX.
7en said:
bcr5784 said:
If you override auto by using the paddles it will stay in the gear selected for (about) 7 seconds - which may be longer than you wish. If you override this by using the paddles again, it will stay in that gear selected - and so ad infinitum. HOWEVER if on the second "override" you hold the paddle a second longer than necessary it will revert to auto - breaking the potentially never ending sequence.
When changing from Track or Sport to Normal I'd like to switch into auto quickly, a long hold on the upshift paddle would be perfect but it doesn't seem to work in the '73 plate car I'm driving. Which model year do you drive?Agree with what others have said though, I usually switch to Track once the engine is warmed up and find it really enjoyable driving around like that. Unless I'm stuck in slower traffic or something then I will go into Sport auto. I only use standard mode if I want to quiet the car down.
Would highly recommend the Life110 shift paddles as well, they feel much nicer to shift with than the standard paddles, and because of the larger size and positioning closer to the steering wheel they feel much more "at your fingertips" the whole time.
7en said:
Where is this located and if you could expand on the effects of disabling please?
You "disable" it by adding 3-5mm rubber to the pedal stopper, so the pedal doesn't "click" the kickdown button. You can check with telemetry or obd that the throttle still goes to 100%.I find normal mode with this mod much more enjoyable and predictable.... for example, you can floor it in 2nd gear at 2500-3000rpm to wiggle the rearend without the annoying and laggy kickdown to 1st gear. This was happening in manual and only in normal mode, but not in sport where it stays in your selected gear (unless it gets below the idle rpm). So effectively it disables kickdown-click in your throttle pedal. Less is more, at least for me
Rob_RCF said:
Would highly recommend the Life110 shift paddles as well, they feel much nicer to shift with than the standard paddles, and because of the larger size and positioning closer to the steering wheel they feel much more "at your fingertips" the whole time.
I second the extended paddles, definitely worth the money and add to the shifting experience.heisenberger said:
I second the extended paddles, definitely worth the money and add to the shifting experience.
Whether they are an advantage or not depends. On track where you keep your hands fixed on the wheel the longer the paddles the better. On the other hand on the road if you are an inveterate wheel shuffler like me - much less so. I've never felt the need for longer paddles.bcr5784 said:
Whether they are an advantage or not depends. On track where you keep your hands fixed on the wheel the longer the paddles the better. On the other hand on the road if you are an inveterate wheel shuffler like me - much less so. I've never felt the need for longer paddles.
I've driven an Alpine (not mine!) on track a number of times and I'm not sure the extended paddles are really needed even then.If you're changing gear with enough steering lock on that you can't reach the standard paddles, you may need to re-evaluate your technique... before the inevitable happens.
I confess I have not really felt the need in longer paddles. I have had similar sized paddles as the standard Alpine ones on a previous car (albeit they were wheel mounted rather than column mounted) and another previous car with much longer paddles (column mounted) and can't say I really felt either was appreciably different.
Wheel mounted or column mounted is an interesting comparison though.
I'm really surprised at the number of owners who have been driving the cars predominantly in auto, it's an alien concept to me. I do often let it change down for me when I am pulling up though.
Wheel mounted or column mounted is an interesting comparison though.
I'm really surprised at the number of owners who have been driving the cars predominantly in auto, it's an alien concept to me. I do often let it change down for me when I am pulling up though.
bcr5784 said:
Whether they are an advantage or not depends. On track where you keep your hands fixed on the wheel the longer the paddles the better. On the other hand on the road if you are an inveterate wheel shuffler like me - much less so. I've never felt the need for longer paddles.
Interesting, first time I hear someone wouldn't appreciate longer paddels. For me this really felt lacking since I first time driven the car, and was really happy when life110 finally produced longer paddles. Now you have multiple producers, but in 2019 there were none.Colin P said:
I confess I have not really felt the need in longer paddles. I have had similar sized paddles as the standard Alpine ones on a previous car (albeit they were wheel mounted rather than column mounted) and another previous car with much longer paddles (column mounted) and can't say I really felt either was appreciably different.
Wheel mounted or column mounted is an interesting comparison though.
Interesting, another one Wheel mounted or column mounted is an interesting comparison though.
Generally, I'm not a fan of auto boxes - I really appreciate the shifting experience, interaction and entertainment you get even when driving less than full throttle. I'm more of a manual fan, I have 3 manual sport cars and only alpine is auto.
But that said, I think alpine auto shifting experience is among the best ones I've tried. Definitelly prefer column-mounted paddles over steering wheel mounted. Shift click is nice and tactile. Short geared DCT with raspy engine note... it's not perfect but pretty good, I can live with that.
I have quite a long reach, so I get on well with the standard paddles and see no need for larger ones; I think they'd get in the way.
Regarding the auto box, it's worth considering that it's a manual box with automatic clutch mechanism, not a torque converter auto. Therefore I put it into neutral at traffic lights, otherwise the clutch is slipping/wearing as it's trying to creep forwards against the brakes.
Regarding the auto box, it's worth considering that it's a manual box with automatic clutch mechanism, not a torque converter auto. Therefore I put it into neutral at traffic lights, otherwise the clutch is slipping/wearing as it's trying to creep forwards against the brakes.
Jacobyte said:
Regarding the auto box, it's worth considering that it's a manual box with automatic clutch mechanism, not a torque converter auto. Therefore I put it into neutral at traffic lights, otherwise the clutch is slipping/wearing as it's trying to creep forwards against the brakes.
I'm not sure that's true. If you look at the torque when you put your foot on the brakes it goes to nothing. So what I think is happening is that the clutch is "lifted" when you put your foot on the brakes, and only partially engaged - to cause creep - when you take your foot off. Unlike a torque converter a lifted multiplate clutch doesn't actually need to cause creep (motorcycles nearly all have multiplate clutches and don't creep when the clutch is lifted in gear). Although "normal" PDK Caymans DO creep, I understand some more focussed ones don't. Creep is, I'm pretty sure, just "faked" because users of torque converter automatics expect and use it when maneuvering. Gassing Station | Alpine | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff