Using the A110: Tips and Tricks

[Jacobyte]

Whaleblue said:

Is there a way to engage neutral via the shifters? I could try next time I’m out of course!

No idea, but it would make sense - nice to do it without taking your hands off the wheel.

bcr5784 said:

I'm not sure that's true. If you look at the torque when you put your foot on the brakes it goes to nothing. So what I think is happening is that the clutch is "lifted" when you put your foot on the brakes, and only partially engaged - to cause creep - when you take your foot off. Unlike a torque converter a lifted multiplate clutch doesn't actually need to cause creep (motorcycles nearly all have multiplate clutches and don't creep when the clutch is lifted in gear). Although "normal" PDK Caymans DO creep, I understand some more focussed ones don't. Creep is, I'm pretty sure, just "faked" because users of torque converter automatics expect and use it when maneuvering.

Interesting - I was hoping that might be the case, but it really does feel like you're fighting the forward movement, hence pressing the N button to be sure I'm not unnecessarily wearing the clutch out. I'll try it again next time I'm in the car.

[heisenberger]

Jacobyte said:

I have quite a long reach, so I get on well with the standard paddles and see no need for larger ones; I think they'd get in the way.

Yes you can work around it... but sometimes, when exiting longer corners you have to reposition the hand on the steering wheel (if the wheel is not centered) and for me that was quite annoying. Plenty of vids on youtube where you can see this. The extended paddles really make a difference - upshift is effortless, because it is finger tap away, and you can mantain proper hand placement on the wheel. Imho the most valuable mod for this car.

[Rob_RCF]

timbo999 said:

I've driven an Alpine (not mine!) on track a number of times and I'm not sure the extended paddles are really needed even then.

If you're changing gear with enough steering lock on that you can't reach the standard paddles, you may need to re-evaluate your technique... before the inevitable happens.

Usually for me it's roundabouts especially smaller ones. Pull out in 1st gear, turn the wheel to go around the roundabout. Go to grab second, but you keep swiping at air because they are so short.

Go on then, what's wrong with my technique?

[timbo999]

Rob_RCF said:

timbo999 said:

I've driven an Alpine (not mine!) on track a number of times and I'm not sure the extended paddles are really needed even then.

If you're changing gear with enough steering lock on that you can't reach the standard paddles, you may need to re-evaluate your technique... before the inevitable happens.

Usually for me it's roundabouts especially smaller ones. Pull out in 1st gear, turn the wheel to go around the roundabout. Go to grab second, but you keep swiping at air because they are so short.

Go on then, what's wrong with my technique?

The post is about driving ON TRACK... not too many tracks with roundabouts, although Llandow comes close!

[bcr5784]

Rob_RCF said:

Usually for me it's roundabouts especially smaller ones. Pull out in 1st gear, turn the wheel to go around the roundabout. Go to grab second, but you keep swiping at air because they are so short.

Go on then, what's wrong with my technique?

I'm not saying you should - but it's not an issue if you feed the wheel. I have 6 small or smallish roundabouts on my 3 mile daily commute and use the paddles on nearly all of them.

[BCA]

heisenberger said:

Yes you can work around it... but sometimes, when exiting longer corners you have to reposition the hand on the steering wheel (if the wheel is not centered) and for me that was quite annoying. Plenty of vids on youtube where you can see this. The extended paddles really make a difference - upshift is effortless, because it is finger tap away, and you can mantain proper hand placement on the wheel. Imho the most valuable mod for this car.

I’d agree with this. I could have lasted longer with the standard paddle length, but after the first weekend and a couple of roundabouts I had to put an order in. No regrets, I’m not sure I like how either of them look, but the longer paddles work better for me in day to day driving. Not tried a car with longer paddles on track yet.

[Colin P]

Whaleblue said:

Is there a way to engage neutral via the shifters? I could try next time I’m out of course!

I don't believe so.

Usually the shortcut is to hold both levers down for a second or two, but that doesn't work on the Alpine.

Also, engaging first can usually be achieved by holding the up shift paddle for a second or two. This also doesn't work.

I can't say that I have found a single shortcut in the Alpine box and this is a shortcoming in my opinion.

[Colin P]

bcr5784 said:

I'm not sure that's true. If you look at the torque when you put your foot on the brakes it goes to nothing. So what I think is happening is that the clutch is "lifted" when you put your foot on the brakes, and only partially engaged - to cause creep - when you take your foot off. Unlike a torque converter a lifted multiplate clutch doesn't actually need to cause creep (motorcycles nearly all have multiplate clutches and don't creep when the clutch is lifted in gear). Although "normal" PDK Caymans DO creep, I understand some more focussed ones don't. Creep is, I'm pretty sure, just "faked" because users of torque converter automatics expect and use it when maneuvering.

I think this is right. Quite often, particularly when the car has been stationary a while or when going into reverse you actually have to tap the accelerator to get the car to creep.

[pining]

Jacobyte said:

[...]

Regarding the auto box, it's worth considering that it's a manual box with automatic clutch mechanism, not a torque converter auto. Therefore I put it into neutral at traffic lights, otherwise the clutch is slipping/wearing as it's trying to creep forwards against the brakes.

As a life-long manual driver to this point, but lining up to buy an A110, I'm curious about this. I live in central London so half an hour+ of long-pause traffic on the way in and out is a way of life. For longer stops in a manual I always engage the handbrake, knock it into neutral, then take my feet off the pedals at longer stops. In autos I've hired with a conventional handbrake and mode shift lever I do the equivalent: foot on brake, neutral, handbrake, foot off pedals.

In an A110 with its mode buttons and electronic parking brake, to be able to take my your foot off the pedals at longer stops and then get going again it feels like I'll be exercising my left hand piano technique.

• Stop: brake pedal, N, P, release brake pedal
• Start: brake pedal, D, switch to accelerator pedal, P

Or is there some automation that shortens that sequence? I guess the electronic parking brake should at least auto-release at the end of the start sequence above. From the manual, whether auto start/stop is enabled adds another variable.

If I'm in full manual drive mode, switch to N, then back to D, I assume I'd have to click D twice again each cycle to get back into full manual mode?

[Terminator X]

I press the handbrake on mine if stopped at lights etc but don't select neutral.

TX.

[worldwidewebs]

Terminator X said:

I press the handbrake on mine if stopped at lights etc but don't select neutral.

TX.

Yep, no need to do anything else

[pining]

worldwidewebs said:

Yep, no need to do anything else

Thanks, that sounds ideal. In some autos if you engage the handbrake and take your foot off the brake without engaging neutral, you can feel the transmission straining against the handbrake, akin to approaching the bite point on a hill start in a manual. I take it then that's not the case with the A110, which certainly simplifies matters.

[Rob_RCF]

timbo999 said:

The post is about driving ON TRACK... not too many tracks with roundabouts, although Llandow comes close!

Ah I didn't realise you meant on track specifically.

[timbo999]

Rob_RCF said:

timbo999 said:

The post is about driving ON TRACK... not too many tracks with roundabouts, although Llandow comes close!

Ah I didn't realise you meant on track specifically.

[k_m]

heisenberger said:

There's one trick/mod I have made to enjoy normal mode a bit more: I have kickdown disabled by adding rubber pedal stopper, so the button is never hit. This avoids all the unwanted kickdowns (especially annoying going into first gear) and just lets you enjoy the response and torque in the lower rpms.

@heisenberger:
Auto kick down pedal at a car with manual shift paddles is kind of odd.
Where exactly did you put the rubber stopper? Can you post a picture of it?

[heisenberger]

k_m said:

@heisenberger:
Auto kick down pedal at a car with manual shift paddles is kind of odd.
Where exactly did you put the rubber stopper? Can you post a picture of it?

Here you go. Pictured is the throttle pedal holder on the firewall. The white part is duct tape, and the black rubber is a piece that acts as a stopper.
I see it did move a bit over years, so will probably reposition it with better double sided tape.

[k_m]

Cool, I like such easy but effective mods.

Glueing the rubber stop with something like Sikaflex might be more durable.

[larger]

Tyres…

Has anyone used PS4 and Cup2 back to back and give a view on how they influence the ride?
Are the carcasses equally stiff?
Perhaps they feel different at different air temps?

Thanks for any help

[worldwidewebs]

Cup2 are quite a bit stiffer

[heisenberger]

larger said:

Tyres…

Has anyone used PS4 and Cup2 back to back and give a view on how they influence the ride?
Are the carcasses equally stiff?
Perhaps they feel different at different air temps?

Thanks for any help

I had both and PS4 is noticeably softer and more compliant, but also very communicative and progressive. It can get too soft in the peak summer heat, but in general it works really well on a street driven A110.

Cup2 is stiffer, but also pretty numb and not progressive at all. It needs very high temperatures, so it always messes up your confidence when you start pushing it (hey understeer). Only works in peak summer heat on the street. Would not recommend for street driven car without an engine upfront.