BMW E46 330d SE Touring
Discussion
Did a quick Insp II today. I used gen Merc 5w30 oil as I got 20l for for a good price.
Filters are Mann apart from the crankcase breather which is gen BMW. I use a copper washer on the sump plug as I don’t like the alloy ones that Mann supply.
New parts:
Old breather:
Nice new filter:
Special funnel:
All done:
Filters are Mann apart from the crankcase breather which is gen BMW. I use a copper washer on the sump plug as I don’t like the alloy ones that Mann supply.
New parts:
Old breather:
Nice new filter:
Special funnel:
All done:
eezeh said:
Helix, you seem to be pretty experienced with the e46 and im sure we can both agree BMW's service mileage intervals are bulls
t. What intervals do you use to change your spark plugs, fluids, filters etc?
I alternate with Oil Service and Insp 2, (oil and filter/all filters). Every 1 year/10k miles whichever is first. Brake fluid every 2 years, coolant every 4. Plugs are fine at BMWs recommendation of every 60k (it’s 100k in the US with the same plugs).t. What intervals do you use to change your spark plugs, fluids, filters etc?I don’t do the pollen filter every service, just when it gets dirty. Mahle/Mann or gen BMW are the best filters.
Since changing the turbo pressure converter for a later type used one I had there was an intermittent problem.
On light throttle the car was surging, as if the boost was rapidly rising and falling. I went for the no diagnosis route, I’m sure there’s a test module for the converter and I could have done live data monitoring but as the problem has arisen since the part was changed I decided to go for a new one.
I went for a Pierburg as they make them for BMW. It came with a horrible part no sticker on it. Which I removed to reveal the BMW part no.
New part:
Old part:
New part:
All back together:
Will it fix the problem or will I have to do some diagnosis?
On light throttle the car was surging, as if the boost was rapidly rising and falling. I went for the no diagnosis route, I’m sure there’s a test module for the converter and I could have done live data monitoring but as the problem has arisen since the part was changed I decided to go for a new one.
I went for a Pierburg as they make them for BMW. It came with a horrible part no sticker on it. Which I removed to reveal the BMW part no.
New part:
Old part:
New part:
All back together:
Will it fix the problem or will I have to do some diagnosis?
Surging power delivery has been fixed by the new solenoid. It also has the bonus of giving more low down power and torque.
Today I changed the o/s/r trailing arm bush. (N/s is for another day). I fitted a genuine BMW M3 bush as it’s firmer and I’ve seen the quality of some aftermarket bushes slip recently.
New parts:
Hose clip keeps the bush compressed for fitting
Old bush in situ:
Usual E46 surface rust present.
Old bush coming out:
Dead bush-original:
New bush fitted:
Bracket on:
Finished, with rust removed and Bilt Hambers finest wax:
The toe is out (literally) but I ran out of patience to adjust it correctly. I’ll pay someone too much money for a 4 wheel alignment when the n/s is done.
Tightening torques are 77Nm for the three bolts and 110Nm for the bracket nut.
Today I changed the o/s/r trailing arm bush. (N/s is for another day). I fitted a genuine BMW M3 bush as it’s firmer and I’ve seen the quality of some aftermarket bushes slip recently.
New parts:
Hose clip keeps the bush compressed for fitting
Old bush in situ:
Usual E46 surface rust present.
Old bush coming out:
Dead bush-original:
New bush fitted:
Bracket on:
Finished, with rust removed and Bilt Hambers finest wax:
The toe is out (literally) but I ran out of patience to adjust it correctly. I’ll pay someone too much money for a 4 wheel alignment when the n/s is done.
Tightening torques are 77Nm for the three bolts and 110Nm for the bracket nut.
For springs Sachs are good if you don’t want genuine BMW. The springs from BMW are matched to the cars options so will be perfect for the car whilst aftermarket ones will be close enough.
My rear springs are original so I got a price from BMW for new ones, £134 each. I’m banned by my wife from lowering this one so no H&R or Eibach!
My rear springs are original so I got a price from BMW for new ones, £134 each. I’m banned by my wife from lowering this one so no H&R or Eibach!
Rust! I found some. In traditional E46 style it wasn’t visible.
The lower edge of the o/s/r arch had some bubbling under the paint and the grommet in the same arch had rust pushing the underseal up around the edge.
I didn’t take photos of the whole job, just one during and one at the end.
During repair:
Finished:
I didn’t overpaint the inner arch body colour as I hate overspray and was too lazy to do lots of masking.
I used Bilt Hamber rust removing/sealing products and Wurth seam sealant and underseal. The arch was brush painted.
This was the same job on my last 330d (2 years older with an extra 100k):
Before:
Moral of the story. Don’t buy an old BMW. No-do!
Just catch the rust early and be prepared to fix it properly.
The lower edge of the o/s/r arch had some bubbling under the paint and the grommet in the same arch had rust pushing the underseal up around the edge.
I didn’t take photos of the whole job, just one during and one at the end.
During repair:
Finished:
I didn’t overpaint the inner arch body colour as I hate overspray and was too lazy to do lots of masking.
I used Bilt Hamber rust removing/sealing products and Wurth seam sealant and underseal. The arch was brush painted.
This was the same job on my last 330d (2 years older with an extra 100k):
Before:
Moral of the story. Don’t buy an old BMW. No-do!
Just catch the rust early and be prepared to fix it properly.
The car’s going well, this is post two 40 mile journeys at the weekend:
I’ve had a 4 wheel alignment done recently, it’s got a tad more negative camber all round than standard, not as much as I wanted-as much as the standard adjustment will allow. I’m not spending silly money on adj camber arms and f top mounts so it’ll stay as it is.
I’ve had a 4 wheel alignment done recently, it’s got a tad more negative camber all round than standard, not as much as I wanted-as much as the standard adjustment will allow. I’m not spending silly money on adj camber arms and f top mounts so it’ll stay as it is.
Today a not very exciting update. The screen trim has cracked, most used ones are similar given the car’s age.
So I bought a new one:
My neighbour also drove into the o/s/r arch, wheel and door. It doesn’t look bad but is down to the primer. I’ve dropped the wheel off for a refurb for my trusted painter and said neighbour says he will pay for the bodywork.
As the car needs no more work (till someone drove into it) I’m also fitting a boot release switch.
So I bought a new one:
My neighbour also drove into the o/s/r arch, wheel and door. It doesn’t look bad but is down to the primer. I’ve dropped the wheel off for a refurb for my trusted painter and said neighbour says he will pay for the bodywork.
As the car needs no more work (till someone drove into it) I’m also fitting a boot release switch.
New screen trim:
There was 16 years worth of leaf mulch and mud under the old one.
Ground connection for the boot switch at the sill earth point. I had a spare wiring loom, I used a wire off that. It’s the wrong colour but correct connector. Secured to the loom with original clip-in a too large heat shrink because it’s the only one I had long enough.
There was 16 years worth of leaf mulch and mud under the old one.
Ground connection for the boot switch at the sill earth point. I had a spare wiring loom, I used a wire off that. It’s the wrong colour but correct connector. Secured to the loom with original clip-in a too large heat shrink because it’s the only one I had long enough.
I noticed the other day that the n/s/r c pillar trim had a chip out of the paint.
I found the part no and put it into eBay. Brand new gen BMW one for £8.
I decided before heading to work that it would be a 5 min job to change.
This was a mistake! I couldn’t get the old one off. To remove it is near impossible without damaging it as you have to bend it away from the glass to remove.
As I run out of time I bodged the old one back on with some seam sealant. In my tired rushed state I thought the old one was secured with sealant behind the glass. I can remove and refit glass but it’s a horrible job and very tricky to do a perfect job.
After a night shift and sleep I looked up the instructions on old school TIS (so much quicker than ISTA). It was like the old Haynes manual, remove old part, fit new one.
I realised that 16 years of being fitted had made the trim stuck on. I used my hot air gun to encourage it to come off and some brute force. It worked!
Pics below:
Old trim:
New dusty trim:
Old trim removed:
All finished:
I found the part no and put it into eBay. Brand new gen BMW one for £8.
I decided before heading to work that it would be a 5 min job to change.
This was a mistake! I couldn’t get the old one off. To remove it is near impossible without damaging it as you have to bend it away from the glass to remove.
As I run out of time I bodged the old one back on with some seam sealant. In my tired rushed state I thought the old one was secured with sealant behind the glass. I can remove and refit glass but it’s a horrible job and very tricky to do a perfect job.
After a night shift and sleep I looked up the instructions on old school TIS (so much quicker than ISTA). It was like the old Haynes manual, remove old part, fit new one.
I realised that 16 years of being fitted had made the trim stuck on. I used my hot air gun to encourage it to come off and some brute force. It worked!
Pics below:
Old trim:
New dusty trim:
Old trim removed:
All finished:
Edited by helix402 on Sunday 11th November 15:30
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