A Reckless V10 Purchase
Discussion
Escy said:
This is something I wasn't aware of. I should be ok under the distance exemption.
I sold my previous daily driver and have started using the Touareg. It quickly became apparent that it loves limp mode. When I bought it the owner told me it did go into limp mode but it didn't do it on the test drive and it only happened once on the drive home. It would happen 3 or 4 times on my 10 mile drive to work (would need to stop and turn the engine off to clear the fault).
The fault is -
18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1
P1952 - 000 - Defective - Intermittent
I believe the issue is due to carbon build up on variable geometry vanes in the turbo exhaust housing. I've not looked yet but my understanding is you can't get the turbo off or even the downpipe off with the engine in the car. I won't be pulling the engine on this car to replace or clean up the turbo, it's not worth my time or the effort. I've bought a couple of bottles of Wynns turbo vane cleaner, it's probably snake oil but it's worth a try. Just add it to the fuel tank and i've been giving it an Italian tune up every time I drive it. It does seem to be improving, the last time I drove it the power delivery felt different, more lively at low throttle so maybe it's done the trick but I won't hold my breath.
I love driving it, it's very smooth but the torque is crazy. With the air suspension on soft the front end lifts up and the back sinks down when you gun it. The torque makes it feel faster than it is but it does pick up speed quickly. The only criticism is the sound track, you can't tell it's a V10 from the engine sound, it just sounds like a big diesel engine (more like a lorry than a car). Maybe some K&N panel filters would improve that.
I replaced the radiator and kinked water hose, I also noticed the oil had been massively over filled, I sucked over 4 litres out of the sump.
For the carbon on the vanes, you could do the tried and tested Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner approach into the hotside of the turbo. I've owned many PD130/150 engines of old and this never fails to fix limp mode/boost issues I sold my previous daily driver and have started using the Touareg. It quickly became apparent that it loves limp mode. When I bought it the owner told me it did go into limp mode but it didn't do it on the test drive and it only happened once on the drive home. It would happen 3 or 4 times on my 10 mile drive to work (would need to stop and turn the engine off to clear the fault).
The fault is -
18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1
P1952 - 000 - Defective - Intermittent
I believe the issue is due to carbon build up on variable geometry vanes in the turbo exhaust housing. I've not looked yet but my understanding is you can't get the turbo off or even the downpipe off with the engine in the car. I won't be pulling the engine on this car to replace or clean up the turbo, it's not worth my time or the effort. I've bought a couple of bottles of Wynns turbo vane cleaner, it's probably snake oil but it's worth a try. Just add it to the fuel tank and i've been giving it an Italian tune up every time I drive it. It does seem to be improving, the last time I drove it the power delivery felt different, more lively at low throttle so maybe it's done the trick but I won't hold my breath.
I love driving it, it's very smooth but the torque is crazy. With the air suspension on soft the front end lifts up and the back sinks down when you gun it. The torque makes it feel faster than it is but it does pick up speed quickly. The only criticism is the sound track, you can't tell it's a V10 from the engine sound, it just sounds like a big diesel engine (more like a lorry than a car). Maybe some K&N panel filters would improve that.
I replaced the radiator and kinked water hose, I also noticed the oil had been massively over filled, I sucked over 4 litres out of the sump.
MikeDrop said:
Escy said:
This is something I wasn't aware of. I should be ok under the distance exemption.
I sold my previous daily driver and have started using the Touareg. It quickly became apparent that it loves limp mode. When I bought it the owner told me it did go into limp mode but it didn't do it on the test drive and it only happened once on the drive home. It would happen 3 or 4 times on my 10 mile drive to work (would need to stop and turn the engine off to clear the fault).
The fault is -
18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1
P1952 - 000 - Defective - Intermittent
I believe the issue is due to carbon build up on variable geometry vanes in the turbo exhaust housing. I've not looked yet but my understanding is you can't get the turbo off or even the downpipe off with the engine in the car. I won't be pulling the engine on this car to replace or clean up the turbo, it's not worth my time or the effort. I've bought a couple of bottles of Wynns turbo vane cleaner, it's probably snake oil but it's worth a try. Just add it to the fuel tank and i've been giving it an Italian tune up every time I drive it. It does seem to be improving, the last time I drove it the power delivery felt different, more lively at low throttle so maybe it's done the trick but I won't hold my breath.
I love driving it, it's very smooth but the torque is crazy. With the air suspension on soft the front end lifts up and the back sinks down when you gun it. The torque makes it feel faster than it is but it does pick up speed quickly. The only criticism is the sound track, you can't tell it's a V10 from the engine sound, it just sounds like a big diesel engine (more like a lorry than a car). Maybe some K&N panel filters would improve that.
I replaced the radiator and kinked water hose, I also noticed the oil had been massively over filled, I sucked over 4 litres out of the sump.
For the carbon on the vanes, you could do the tried and tested Mr Muscle Oven Cleaner approach into the hotside of the turbo. I've owned many PD130/150 engines of old and this never fails to fix limp mode/boost issues I sold my previous daily driver and have started using the Touareg. It quickly became apparent that it loves limp mode. When I bought it the owner told me it did go into limp mode but it didn't do it on the test drive and it only happened once on the drive home. It would happen 3 or 4 times on my 10 mile drive to work (would need to stop and turn the engine off to clear the fault).
The fault is -
18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1
P1952 - 000 - Defective - Intermittent
I believe the issue is due to carbon build up on variable geometry vanes in the turbo exhaust housing. I've not looked yet but my understanding is you can't get the turbo off or even the downpipe off with the engine in the car. I won't be pulling the engine on this car to replace or clean up the turbo, it's not worth my time or the effort. I've bought a couple of bottles of Wynns turbo vane cleaner, it's probably snake oil but it's worth a try. Just add it to the fuel tank and i've been giving it an Italian tune up every time I drive it. It does seem to be improving, the last time I drove it the power delivery felt different, more lively at low throttle so maybe it's done the trick but I won't hold my breath.
I love driving it, it's very smooth but the torque is crazy. With the air suspension on soft the front end lifts up and the back sinks down when you gun it. The torque makes it feel faster than it is but it does pick up speed quickly. The only criticism is the sound track, you can't tell it's a V10 from the engine sound, it just sounds like a big diesel engine (more like a lorry than a car). Maybe some K&N panel filters would improve that.
I replaced the radiator and kinked water hose, I also noticed the oil had been massively over filled, I sucked over 4 litres out of the sump.
bolidemichael said:
I refer you to Max_Torque's comments on the 'Italian Tune Up' thread. He/she/it (why assume!) seems to know their onions.
Max alludes to but misses the point. Alot of TDi turbos are so underused that they don't get upto temperature. My PD100 would take 9 miles on the motorway just to put Luke warm air into the cabin. Thermostat was brand new and functioning correctly.Why take apart the engine when you can add cleaner to the exhaust mechanism? The fuel tank products seem to be doing no harm that I've seen.
Escy said:
The fault is -
18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1
P1952 - 000 - Defective - Intermittent
I believe the issue is due to carbon build up on variable geometry vanes in the turbo exhaust housing. I've not looked yet but my understanding is you can't get the turbo off or even the downpipe off with the engine in the car. I won't be pulling the engine on this car to replace or clean up the turbo, it's not worth my time or the effort. I've bought a couple of bottles of Wynns turbo vane cleaner, it's probably snake oil but it's worth a try. Just add it to the fuel tank and i've been giving it an Italian tune up every time I drive it. It does seem to be improving, the last time I drove it the power delivery felt different, more lively at low throttle so maybe it's done the trick but I won't hold my breath.
usually faults with variable geometery turbo gives an overboost condition where carbon stops the vnt rings from moving freely.18360 - Turbocharger Control Module 1
P1952 - 000 - Defective - Intermittent
I believe the issue is due to carbon build up on variable geometry vanes in the turbo exhaust housing. I've not looked yet but my understanding is you can't get the turbo off or even the downpipe off with the engine in the car. I won't be pulling the engine on this car to replace or clean up the turbo, it's not worth my time or the effort. I've bought a couple of bottles of Wynns turbo vane cleaner, it's probably snake oil but it's worth a try. Just add it to the fuel tank and i've been giving it an Italian tune up every time I drive it. It does seem to be improving, the last time I drove it the power delivery felt different, more lively at low throttle so maybe it's done the trick but I won't hold my breath.
that code is more likely an issue with the actuator or wiring.
could even be down to an old/weak battery.
can you reach and actuate the vnt rod manually? doing so and running a mr muscle type cleaner through the egr port may also help (this was common fix on smaller engined cars)
I had a chance to look at the limp mode problem over the weekend. I'd been a bit thick before when scanning the car for fault codes with VCDS, i'd forgotten this engine has an ECU for each bank and i'd only been scanning one of the ECU's. Once i'd scanned the bank 2 ECU it also had a fault code for the turbocharger control module, but unlike the code on bank 1, this would not stay cleared. Every time it was scanned it would show back up straight away and that's without the engine being run. The code said defective rather than the intermittent that bank 1 says. You can run an output test on VCDS which I did, bank 1 worked but bank 2 did nothing.
A year and a half ago it had a pair of re-built actuators fitted at the cost of £440 from BBA Reman. Fitting was another £600 on top.
The plan was to remove the actuator arms and manually move the turbo vanes to free them up. I did this, the turbo on bank 2 was a little stiff at first. I knew the bank 2 actuator was goosed so I removed that. Luckily it's the easier side to access.
You can see in the picture i've removed the actuator arm. You can see it's all oily, the car is filthy due to oil leaks.
With it off the car I opened it up, tested the motor on a battery and it worked, all the plastic gears were fine. I put it back together and re-fitted it on the car and suddenly the fault code was able to cleared. It's late so i've only had a chance to take it for a little blast around the block for a test drive but the code has stayed off so far. I didn't really do anything so i'm not convinced it's sorted. If it isn't, i'll replace the unit.
I took off a boost pipe, plenty of cack in it, the joys of a high mileage diesel.
A year and a half ago it had a pair of re-built actuators fitted at the cost of £440 from BBA Reman. Fitting was another £600 on top.
The plan was to remove the actuator arms and manually move the turbo vanes to free them up. I did this, the turbo on bank 2 was a little stiff at first. I knew the bank 2 actuator was goosed so I removed that. Luckily it's the easier side to access.
You can see in the picture i've removed the actuator arm. You can see it's all oily, the car is filthy due to oil leaks.
With it off the car I opened it up, tested the motor on a battery and it worked, all the plastic gears were fine. I put it back together and re-fitted it on the car and suddenly the fault code was able to cleared. It's late so i've only had a chance to take it for a little blast around the block for a test drive but the code has stayed off so far. I didn't really do anything so i'm not convinced it's sorted. If it isn't, i'll replace the unit.
I took off a boost pipe, plenty of cack in it, the joys of a high mileage diesel.
V8RX7 said:
Evanivitch said:
V8RX7 said:
I have heard of adding:
two stroke oil, veg oil and kerosene
to cure a range of ills
I've never heard any of them being used to fix anything.two stroke oil, veg oil and kerosene
to cure a range of ills
However, several PD engine users believe that two stroke oil makes the engine run smoother. Veg oil has been used on a wide variety of suitable diesel engines to reduce cost, as has kerosene. But not heard them used to fix anything.
After using it to go to work I scanned the codes. It went into limp mode plenty of times so I knew it wasn't sorted. Bank 2 is now fine so that's a result. Bank 1 is the problem child. The fault is classed as intermittent on VCDS. Every time I run the output test on it, it works fine. The turbo vanes move freely so that's not the issue. I'm a bit stumped on it, getting the bank 1 actuator off is a big job, I think i'd probably need to drop the subframe which I can't be arsed to do. I'm not sure what the plan is now.
Hi
I had similar sporadic issues with a Passat TDI. Bear with me.
I found part of the wiring loom that runs along the top of the cylinder head was breaking down due, I assume, to heat soak. The plastic loom cover crumbled when handled and on inspecting the individual wires the insulation was cracked in numerous places. Add in some moisture and I think it was enough to allow tracking. I taped up the wires, rerouted them and added a heat shield and have not had any issues since.
I had similar sporadic issues with a Passat TDI. Bear with me.
I found part of the wiring loom that runs along the top of the cylinder head was breaking down due, I assume, to heat soak. The plastic loom cover crumbled when handled and on inspecting the individual wires the insulation was cracked in numerous places. Add in some moisture and I think it was enough to allow tracking. I taped up the wires, rerouted them and added a heat shield and have not had any issues since.
I'm just limping around everywhere in it currently.The good thing is, as it's 5 litre you don't really notice it's in limp mode unless you get to a hill. I can't get the turbo actuator on the drivers side unless I drop the front subframe. I'm in two minds about doing it, it's quite a bit of work and I haven't decided the plan of action if I did. It's recently been rebuilt and works intermittently, I don't think it's faulty unit, could be a wiring issue but it seems like a lot of effort for a look if I don't find anything. I've not got the time or space to do anything with it at the moment.
on my commute to work (don't use it that often). I'm going to make a lot of assumptions about the car you will be towing and what you're doing with said car. I'd recommend a JDM imported Toyota Alphard, the 3.5 V6 with an engine closely related to Lexus and Lotus Evora's specifically.
Van like levels of space but luxury car levels of performance and refinement and possibly a bit daft to boot. What's not to like.
Van like levels of space but luxury car levels of performance and refinement and possibly a bit daft to boot. What's not to like.
MrNoisy said:
Great purchase op, watching with interest.
I too am on a hunt for something to tow my car trailer. Bizarrely I already have the trailer but the car to go on it and tow it are still slightly distant works in progress.
I was mega interested in these but then an article pushed me to the 4.2 TDI Q7. Then the man maths really started to kick in as I was comparing the fuel costs of a 24 mpg Derv to a S/C FFRR - I gave up at that point and refocussed on reality for a bit.
Good luck, keep the info coming.
I too am on a hunt for something to tow my car trailer. Bizarrely I already have the trailer but the car to go on it and tow it are still slightly distant works in progress.
I was mega interested in these but then an article pushed me to the 4.2 TDI Q7. Then the man maths really started to kick in as I was comparing the fuel costs of a 24 mpg Derv to a S/C FFRR - I gave up at that point and refocussed on reality for a bit.
Good luck, keep the info coming.
ndtman said:
Hi
I had similar sporadic issues with a Passat TDI. Bear with me.
I found part of the wiring loom that runs along the top of the cylinder head was breaking down due, I assume, to heat soak. The plastic loom cover crumbled when handled and on inspecting the individual wires the insulation was cracked in numerous places. Add in some moisture and I think it was enough to allow tracking. I taped up the wires, rerouted them and added a heat shield and have not had any issues since.
That usually means you loose an injector, which is far more noticeable than limp mode!!I had similar sporadic issues with a Passat TDI. Bear with me.
I found part of the wiring loom that runs along the top of the cylinder head was breaking down due, I assume, to heat soak. The plastic loom cover crumbled when handled and on inspecting the individual wires the insulation was cracked in numerous places. Add in some moisture and I think it was enough to allow tracking. I taped up the wires, rerouted them and added a heat shield and have not had any issues since.
JimbobVFR said:
I'm going to make a lot of assumptions about the car you will be towing and what you're doing with said car. I'd recommend a JDM imported Toyota Alphard, the 3.5 V6 with an engine closely related to Lexus and Lotus Evora's specifically.
Van like levels of space but luxury car levels of performance and refinement and possibly a bit daft to boot. What's not to like.
They are a pretty interesting suggestion. The 3.5 V6 produces 330nm of torque, that would be perfect if he wants to tow go kart or dirt bike Van like levels of space but luxury car levels of performance and refinement and possibly a bit daft to boot. What's not to like.
The Touareg has 750nm, if he wants to tow a Boeing 747 that'll be the choice (providing it's not in limp mode)
you could get 2 multimeters, connect them to the appropriate pins at the ecu for each actuator then do a wiggle test on the accessable bits of loom to the misbehaving actuator, when the values differ by much you are close.
actually scrap that you only need 1 meter, the good side shouldnt change value with the car off.
actually scrap that you only need 1 meter, the good side shouldnt change value with the car off.
Yeah, i'll test the wiring with a multi meter, if I do decide to fix it.
I've had a nightmare this evening, collected some cardboard from Halfords, the boot wouldn't open (from the key, handle or button inside), so I put the back seat down and was crawling through to see if I could open it from inside, I couldn't but when I got out of the car, closed the door and then the doors locked. That's strange because they don't usually self lock. Predictably the keys had fallen out of my pocket when I was crawling around in the boot and now I was locked out. I don't have a spare key so knew straight away I was going to have to break in. As I was at Halfords I could borrow a hammer and screwdriver, I made the wrong choice to try and hammer the door lock. I mashed it up, dented the door in and didn't get anywhere so plan B was to put the window through (this would have been plan A but it was raining). Smashing a window with a hammer isn't as easy as i'd expected. I had a few strikes and it bounced off. A shady looking bloke about 60 on a mobility scooter came past and wanted to have a go, I let him and he did it first time, I think he's done that before! It's made a right mess, the glass goes everywhere.
I also noticed it's developed an air leak from the drivers side front shock. I'm starting to think it's time to strip it for parts and get my money back out of it.
I've had a nightmare this evening, collected some cardboard from Halfords, the boot wouldn't open (from the key, handle or button inside), so I put the back seat down and was crawling through to see if I could open it from inside, I couldn't but when I got out of the car, closed the door and then the doors locked. That's strange because they don't usually self lock. Predictably the keys had fallen out of my pocket when I was crawling around in the boot and now I was locked out. I don't have a spare key so knew straight away I was going to have to break in. As I was at Halfords I could borrow a hammer and screwdriver, I made the wrong choice to try and hammer the door lock. I mashed it up, dented the door in and didn't get anywhere so plan B was to put the window through (this would have been plan A but it was raining). Smashing a window with a hammer isn't as easy as i'd expected. I had a few strikes and it bounced off. A shady looking bloke about 60 on a mobility scooter came past and wanted to have a go, I let him and he did it first time, I think he's done that before! It's made a right mess, the glass goes everywhere.
I also noticed it's developed an air leak from the drivers side front shock. I'm starting to think it's time to strip it for parts and get my money back out of it.
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