1996 Mercedes SL 600
Discussion
Hairymonster said:
Write 50 lines:
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes".......
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
Urban MPG 11.5
Extra-urban 22.6
Combined 16.7
CO2 400g/km
I had a 4.2 V8 version of these CL monsters. OK, it didn't have the electric curtains at the back and the squat/thrust active suspension, but it had everything else. It was a proper wafting motor which creeps at 30mph at 700 rpm when you tap the throttle and 70mph comes at 2000 rpm. The only downsides were you never hear the engine unless WOT so you're hardly reminded that you have something special under the bonnet and the weight of these things, I think the torque of the V12 does make sense here."I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes"
"I must not go on Autotrader and start looking for a V12 Mercedes".......
http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/2017...
Urban MPG 11.5
Extra-urban 22.6
Combined 16.7
CO2 400g/km
Edited by Hairymonster on Friday 14th April 16:07
Hereward said:
I have tidied up the front brake calipers with a coat of rust treatment. The front pads and discs are in great shape, having being renewed by the previous owner just before I purchased the car. I also removed the front wheel arch liners and cleaned out the drain hoses that handle water coming off the windscreen. One of them had a plug of crud so good to sort out. The front ADS spring actuators ("spheres") and damper valves are also housed here so they were inspected and coated with corrosion protection. The wheel arch liners do their job well with minimal corrosion in the area, except on a few tired looking bolt threads.
I also squirted corrosion inhibitor in to all four jacking slots. Two had corrosion, the other two were in great shape.
I had noticed recently the car's idle was a little erratic so I have started the process of fixing it. The two simplest items to attend to first are to plug a tiny crack on the vacuum distributor block and renew the fuel pressure regulator:
Position of Vacuum distributor block, mounted on passenger-side (UK) engine bulkhead. Engine out of shot to the left, windscreen out of shot to the right. It's the unit with red and yellow hoses attached:
Close up you can see a small crack next to the "ball bearing" that can introduce unmetered air in to the system. This needs to be covered with epoxy resin to be made air tight. I think these are common across all R129's so if you're an owner have a look.
Next job was to replace the fuel pressure regulator. This is easy to access being mounted on the top of the engine (see the red arrow in the pic):
The old unit is easy to prise out after removal of the retaining circlip and the new one pushes straight in easily. I lubed the two o-rings with dielectric grease to ensure no tearing. New one on the left. Slightly different design so hopefully no operational issues:
I will go for a drive tomorrow if dry and see if these have made any difference to the idle stability. I have also cleaned the MAF's. If not then there's a rats nest of vacuum hoses to test and inspect...
Hereward, thank you so much for documenting your story/journey on this wonderful adventure. Being a fan of very large engine cars and especially Mercedes, I find this very intriguing reading. Being a mechanical numpty, I didn't even know those were vacuum leads, I thought they were electric cables. I also squirted corrosion inhibitor in to all four jacking slots. Two had corrosion, the other two were in great shape.
I had noticed recently the car's idle was a little erratic so I have started the process of fixing it. The two simplest items to attend to first are to plug a tiny crack on the vacuum distributor block and renew the fuel pressure regulator:
Position of Vacuum distributor block, mounted on passenger-side (UK) engine bulkhead. Engine out of shot to the left, windscreen out of shot to the right. It's the unit with red and yellow hoses attached:
Close up you can see a small crack next to the "ball bearing" that can introduce unmetered air in to the system. This needs to be covered with epoxy resin to be made air tight. I think these are common across all R129's so if you're an owner have a look.
Next job was to replace the fuel pressure regulator. This is easy to access being mounted on the top of the engine (see the red arrow in the pic):
The old unit is easy to prise out after removal of the retaining circlip and the new one pushes straight in easily. I lubed the two o-rings with dielectric grease to ensure no tearing. New one on the left. Slightly different design so hopefully no operational issues:
I will go for a drive tomorrow if dry and see if these have made any difference to the idle stability. I have also cleaned the MAF's. If not then there's a rats nest of vacuum hoses to test and inspect...
Also owning a CL420 many many years ago before the days of google, I could only consult the dealer or my local unscrupulous specialist and things got very expensive. An example is the shaky rear view mirror. I was told by the dealer that it was a broken pin inside the assembly. So I said "well just take it apart and replace the pin". They replied, "sorry sir, it only comes in one unit with the rain sensor and auto dimming mirror, it's £425 for a unit and we have to order it from Germany." So I turned around, pulled my pants down, and they continued spanking. Like I said, it got expensive without the knowledge or know how.
£23k for a late model SL600, 80 thousand miles with factory AMG bodykit and pano roof. High running costs but in this spec and condition it ought to hold its value.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-MERCEDES-BENZ-SL600...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-MERCEDES-BENZ-SL600...
An illustrative contrast between the V12 R129 with the AMG bodykit and a V12 R230 (given an R231 facelift) with the "AMG Suhorovsk Design Bodystyling Package" . The difference in photo locations is also quite revealing in a "brass versus class" way.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-SL-600-AMG...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-SL-600-AMG...
Edited by Zonergem on Sunday 16th April 14:47
Edited by Zonergem on Sunday 16th April 15:19
Zonergem said:
£23k for a late model SL600, 80 thousand miles with factory AMG bodykit and pano roof. High running costs but in this spec and condition it ought to hold its value.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-MERCEDES-BENZ-SL600...
Buy the seller. Or in this case his house and gardens.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-MERCEDES-BENZ-SL600...
Zonergem said:
An illustrative contrast between the V12 R129 with the AMG bodykit and a V12 R230 (given an R231 facelift) with the "AMG Suhorovsk Design Bodystyling Package" . The difference in photo locations is also quite revealing in a "brass versus class" way.
f
k me that really is foul. Did it leave the factory like that or has some tasteless tt been at it??Zonergem said:
£23k for a late model SL600, 80 thousand miles with factory AMG bodykit and pano roof. High running costs but in this spec and condition it ought to hold its value.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-MERCEDES-BENZ-SL600...
My car's twin!! Looks lovely but I think I'd want the rear ride height looked at and returned to factory spec - might just be a case of adjusting the rear ADS level sender and then having the geometry adjusted to bring back into spec....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1998-MERCEDES-BENZ-SL600...
Harry must have bumped the prices of the R129 SL's - I watched the video and wanted one! Re the previous reply saying the R129 600's were popular in Puerto Banus at the time - this would be popular in Puerto Banus in the summer time now! I much prefer the OP's model :-)
Zonergem said:
An illustrative contrast between the V12 R129 with the AMG bodykit and a V12 R230 (given an R231 facelift) with the "AMG Suhorovsk Design Bodystyling Package" . The difference in photo locations is also quite revealing in a "brass versus class" way.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-SL-600-AMG...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mercedes-Benz-SL-600-AMG...
Edited by Zonergem on Sunday 16th April 14:47
Edited by Zonergem on Sunday 16th April 15:19
leef44 said:
Also owning a CL420 many many years ago before the days of google, I could only consult the dealer or my local unscrupulous specialist and things got very expensive. An example is the shaky rear view mirror. I was told by the dealer that it was a broken pin inside the assembly. So I said "well just take it apart and replace the pin". They replied, "sorry sir, it only comes in one unit with the rain sensor and auto dimming mirror, it's £425 for a unit and we have to order it from Germany." So I turned around, pulled my pants down, and they continued spanking. Like I said, it got expensive without the knowledge or know how.
This is a very important point. We are fortunate enough to live in an age where a little bit of internet sleuthing can provide all the information needed to diagnose and fix something. You can also find and buy virtually any part and have it delivered to your home address. There is a lot of dross on the internet too, but if you can wade through it the golden nuggets are there. These are great times to be a car nut.Success. The new conductor plate has cured the kickdown/limp mode issue. I am so, so chuffed.
The swap is very simple in theory but it seems someone had been rummaging around in that part of the transmission not too long ago and had massively over-torqued all the bolts on the valve body. 9 of them came off without trouble but I rounded off one and had to cut the head off it. Luckily its threaded section could then be unwound easily. The valve body with conductor plate attached is about 10kg, so an extra pair of hands whilst the last couple of bolts come off is most helpful.
There are great step-by-step instructions on the internet so I won't go in to the detail.
Undoing the ATF sump plug releases just under 3 litres of ATF. You then need to refit the sump plug and remove the sump body carefully - the design means that not all the ATF can drain and about 1.4 litres is left in a puddle in the sump, so lower it carefully. The valve body then drips merrily so have plenty of newspaper etc ready. In total I measured about 4.7 litres of ATF released. I didn't drain the torque converter.
The innards were absolutely immaculate, no swarf or sludge at all. The existing conductor plate had a manufacturing stamp indicating 2012, so my heart sank when I saw that, it implied the hardware was all pretty new and may not therefore be the problem. I fitted the new plate anyway and swapped over the six solenoids. It is essential that this is all done in a clean environment. Dust or bits of fluff/rag/tissue etc can cause havoc with the internals.
I refitted the valve body to the car (using the proper torque setting of 8nm) and checked a spring in the side of the valve body (in earlier designs it can snap, causing shift problems). My car had the later, modified spring, all okay.
I fitted a new filter, refitted the sump bolts (8nm again) and pilot bushing, refilled with ATF, started her up, worked the gearbox lever through all positions for a few minutes to allow the ATF to circulate, went for a drive and then booted the throttle once warm. Result - perfect kickdown!
I should add that I also fitted a brand new section of air intake hose between the left-side MAF and throttle body, to replace a cracked section, so there is always a chance this helped too, by ironing out any fuel/air issues.
Sump removed to show bottom of valve body and filter:
New conductor plate being fitted to top of valve body and 3 pairs of solenoids being swapped over:
View of gearbox housing where the conductor plate and valve body resides. A float valve on the conductor plate sits in the left hole and prevents overfilled ATF rising higher. The two holes to the right are for the conductor plate speed sensors:
Valve body refitted in position:
Checking spring (the big one) is in one piece. This is a revised design version:
The swap is very simple in theory but it seems someone had been rummaging around in that part of the transmission not too long ago and had massively over-torqued all the bolts on the valve body. 9 of them came off without trouble but I rounded off one and had to cut the head off it. Luckily its threaded section could then be unwound easily. The valve body with conductor plate attached is about 10kg, so an extra pair of hands whilst the last couple of bolts come off is most helpful.
There are great step-by-step instructions on the internet so I won't go in to the detail.
Undoing the ATF sump plug releases just under 3 litres of ATF. You then need to refit the sump plug and remove the sump body carefully - the design means that not all the ATF can drain and about 1.4 litres is left in a puddle in the sump, so lower it carefully. The valve body then drips merrily so have plenty of newspaper etc ready. In total I measured about 4.7 litres of ATF released. I didn't drain the torque converter.
The innards were absolutely immaculate, no swarf or sludge at all. The existing conductor plate had a manufacturing stamp indicating 2012, so my heart sank when I saw that, it implied the hardware was all pretty new and may not therefore be the problem. I fitted the new plate anyway and swapped over the six solenoids. It is essential that this is all done in a clean environment. Dust or bits of fluff/rag/tissue etc can cause havoc with the internals.
I refitted the valve body to the car (using the proper torque setting of 8nm) and checked a spring in the side of the valve body (in earlier designs it can snap, causing shift problems). My car had the later, modified spring, all okay.
I fitted a new filter, refitted the sump bolts (8nm again) and pilot bushing, refilled with ATF, started her up, worked the gearbox lever through all positions for a few minutes to allow the ATF to circulate, went for a drive and then booted the throttle once warm. Result - perfect kickdown!
I should add that I also fitted a brand new section of air intake hose between the left-side MAF and throttle body, to replace a cracked section, so there is always a chance this helped too, by ironing out any fuel/air issues.
Sump removed to show bottom of valve body and filter:
New conductor plate being fitted to top of valve body and 3 pairs of solenoids being swapped over:
View of gearbox housing where the conductor plate and valve body resides. A float valve on the conductor plate sits in the left hole and prevents overfilled ATF rising higher. The two holes to the right are for the conductor plate speed sensors:
Valve body refitted in position:
Checking spring (the big one) is in one piece. This is a revised design version:
Edited by Hereward on Tuesday 18th April 21:56
Well done - 129s have a reputation for being complicated beasts, but it does show that a considered and careful approach by the DIYer can resolve issues which could otherwise prove very expensive. As said before, cars like this were a different prospect before the internet! Who'd have thought of the benefit?!
ETA - Hereward, can I ask a favour- does your Carsoft software read the RST (roadster soft top) codes from your car? I was going to buy the software but was steered by Carsoft towards the handheld MI6 as it will also read the codes on our facelft 211 and CLS (which it does) but there is no mention of RST under 129.067 (which the SL is) but there is under post-1999 SLs (although the software realises the car is not that model and refuses to be fooled). I may need to rethink my purchase.
I need to re-set the roof on the SL - as a word of warning, does your car have the "standard" Scorpion alarm which I believe the importers fitted? I awoke to a pathetic cheeping from the garage a few weeks ago, to find the alarm warbling weakly, the car battery near flat and the CTEK charging lead rather warm. I disconnected the battery, removed the alarm (apparently the ni-cad batteries leak and destroy the PCB) but now the roof refuses to work. Scorpion no longer make the alarm, so I've got to chase the wiring and disconnect, but have to sort the roof issue too. It's a good job the car is sat on the ramp while AutoDoc chase rear calipers around Germany or I'd be missing this fine weather!
ETA - Hereward, can I ask a favour- does your Carsoft software read the RST (roadster soft top) codes from your car? I was going to buy the software but was steered by Carsoft towards the handheld MI6 as it will also read the codes on our facelft 211 and CLS (which it does) but there is no mention of RST under 129.067 (which the SL is) but there is under post-1999 SLs (although the software realises the car is not that model and refuses to be fooled). I may need to rethink my purchase.
I need to re-set the roof on the SL - as a word of warning, does your car have the "standard" Scorpion alarm which I believe the importers fitted? I awoke to a pathetic cheeping from the garage a few weeks ago, to find the alarm warbling weakly, the car battery near flat and the CTEK charging lead rather warm. I disconnected the battery, removed the alarm (apparently the ni-cad batteries leak and destroy the PCB) but now the roof refuses to work. Scorpion no longer make the alarm, so I've got to chase the wiring and disconnect, but have to sort the roof issue too. It's a good job the car is sat on the ramp while AutoDoc chase rear calipers around Germany or I'd be missing this fine weather!
Edited by Stegel on Thursday 20th April 11:24
I will check the Carsoft application tonight or tomorrow night and let you know.
I'm not sure what alarm system I have but, based on the window sticker, it was installed by the Dutch dealer the first owner purchased the car from. I vaguely remember that era - a UK new car buyer could make quite a saving by purchasing through a dealer on the continent.
I'm not sure what alarm system I have but, based on the window sticker, it was installed by the Dutch dealer the first owner purchased the car from. I vaguely remember that era - a UK new car buyer could make quite a saving by purchasing through a dealer on the continent.
Stegel said:
Thanks - I spoke to Carsoft as their brochure shows RST being visible to 129s, not just late ones, and they're coming back to me, but it would be good to know about the software as that comes with adapters to allow it to speak to 124s.
Hmm, I tried this last night and it reported "Status: Module does not respond!"I am not an advanced used so may be doing somethng wrong (but have been able to bring up engine error codes with no trouble). My car is Dec96 build.
My software is the Carsoft V12 package.
Sorry I can't be of much help.
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