Purchased/Looking after a 2012 Insignia - WCPGW

[Cambs_Stuart]

This seems like a lot of work to keep running in good condition. How much do you think is the design and how much is the treatment/maintenance?

[B'stard Child]

Cambs_Stuart said:

This seems like a lot of work to keep running in good condition. How much do you think is the design and how much is the treatment/maintenance?

I'd say 10% design - 90% treatment/maintenance if I've understood your question correctly

The sump block oil seal - I'd say is poor design

I'm pretty sure now the timing belt jumped as a result of the DPF issue, repeated stalling and not being at the correct tension so I'd put that down to poor installation at the last timing belt change (~100K) not something you'd check :-(

Everything else is just lack of any care - the poor thing doesn't even get a wash on a regular basis

[mudster]

If you do the EGR, just be careful of the proximity of the starter motor live connection when you're swinging the ratchet. It's just below one of the bolts. Did mine a couple of weeks ago and it's only 5 bolts to get it out.

[B'stard Child]

mudster said:

If you do the EGR, just be careful of the proximity of the starter motor live connection when you're swinging the ratchet. It's just below one of the bolts. Did mine a couple of weeks ago and it's only 5 bolts to get it out.

Thanks - advice based on experience always welcome

[B'stard Child]

Finished working out the bill for parts (inc VAT)

Oil and Filter change £41.01

Cambelt Kit £158.93

Coolant £16.99

Crank Pinion Drive £21.97

Crank Bolt £6.71

Total £245.62

Didn't charge for the Timing tool kit (I haven't spent my tool budget this year) or labour (Because "sort of family")

I've offered her "easy payment" terms because near Xmas so she can spread the cost over a few months

[FourGears]

Just wear and tear caused the timing to slip?

Hopefully no more repairs for a while

[B'stard Child]

FourGears said:

Just wear and tear caused the timing to slip?

I think the stalling due to EGR issues kicked the belt and the tensioner wasn't set correctly (either from wear or poorly done at the time the belt was last replaced)

FourGears said:

Hopefully no more repairs for a while

Just got to find time to clean the EGR and see if that clears the remaining fault code - NN informs me that it's running lovely (she has lower stds than me)

[mercedeslimos]

Sounds like our Mondeo, I don't drive it for months on end so when I do and it feels like dogst to drive, she says "oh it's been like that for ages"...

[B'stard Child]

mercedeslimos said:

Sounds like our Mondeo, I don't drive it for months on end so when I do and it feels like dogst to drive, she says "oh it's been like that for ages"...

can't live with them can't live without them

[FourGears]

B'stard Child said:

FourGears said:

Just wear and tear caused the timing to slip?

I think the stalling due to EGR issues kicked the belt and the tensioner wasn't set correctly (either from wear or poorly done at the time the belt was last replaced)

FourGears said:

Hopefully no more repairs for a while

Just got to find time to clean the EGR and see if that clears the remaining fault code - NN informs me that it's running lovely (she has lower stds than me)

Fingers crossed! Have you wired an led in to the rear window demist circuit?

Thanks for your replies and explanations

[B'stard Child]

FourGears said:

B'stard Child said:

FourGears said:

Just wear and tear caused the timing to slip?

I think the stalling due to EGR issues kicked the belt and the tensioner wasn't set correctly (either from wear or poorly done at the time the belt was last replaced)

FourGears said:

Hopefully no more repairs for a while

Just got to find time to clean the EGR and see if that clears the remaining fault code - NN informs me that it's running lovely (she has lower stds than me)

Fingers crossed! Have you wired an led in to the rear window demist circuit?

No - I think we covered that very early in the thread - it would create more issues than it would solve

I have shown her the info screen which when the DPF is regening shows the HRW as a consumer despite the switch being off - that confused her as well

FourGears said:

Thanks for your replies and explanations

No problem at all - I'm not sure the insignia has many fans on PH but the thread may help someone searching with google one day (it'll give those that read it on here a laugh - maybe )

[B'stard Child]

It's back

It's OK cos it's gone again

NN and the kids were coming round for an hour or two - great opportunity to see if I could fix the remaining fault code (EGR Related) They only live less than a mile away so great the engine wouldn't be stupid hot to work on

Car arrives - kids decamped and went off to cover the dining room with play dough and generally mix colours together (don't ask it's a thing they do - deeply upsets my OCD which is probably why they do it)

NN sticks it on the neighbours driveway and opens the bonnet - bloody hell that's hot for a short drive from home - sorry she says we've just come from Norwich - great - I'll need asbestos hands again

So dodging hot bits EGR link pipe removed





As I removed it I hear something ching onto the engine



Oooh someone has been here before and blanked out the EGR



So why is it so filthy????

And who blanked it - it's beyond the capabilities of NN so I asked her "Ahhh the AA man said he blanked something when he read the codes as it was the only code the engine was giving him"

Well I'll leave that out then

Once cleaned







Put it all back together and read the codes before clearing them



She's got a couple of shifts next week so it'll get a few good runs of 40 miles each way and we'll see if the engine light comes on again.

I'm wondering now if the codes are down to the blanking plate rather than a duff or dirty EGR valve / pipework?

While it was here I checked the oil and topped up the coolant a bit - bloody headlights are going to be swimming pools soon so I'd better start looking for a pair of headlights that have good seals to swap out the ones she has that clear have seals past their best

[mercedeslimos]

Does blanked EGR interfere with the DPF and particularly regeneration? I seem to get very mixed answers. I've blanked it on the Mondeo for a couple of years now., but never pulled the valve etc as it's a fkING HORRIBLE job to do it. I blanked it on my Passat (and the cooler went in the bin too) and it's great, clear the light every once in a while. Blanked on my parents' Rover 75 too, but that's 04 so no light and the manifold is whistle clean despite never cleaning it out, suppose 6 years and 75k would do that.

[B'stard Child]

mercedeslimos said:

Does blanked EGR interfere with the DPF and particularly regeneration? I seem to get very mixed answers.

No idea on that

mercedeslimos said:

I've blanked it on the Mondeo for a couple of years now., but never pulled the valve etc as it's a fkING HORRIBLE job to do it. I blanked it on my Passat (and the cooler went in the bin too) and it's great, clear the light every once in a while. Blanked on my parents' Rover 75 too, but that's 04 so no light and the manifold is whistle clean despite never cleaning it out, suppose 6 years and 75k would do that.

I really think blanking and not getting a reaction from the car (EMS) is very car specific

For me NN pinged me today to say 100 miles covered no EML - I'll take that as a result

Still searching for headlights that don't "identify as goldfish bowls"

I'm beginning to wonder if it maybe an option to split lens from Case and reseal - will have to do a search

[SirGriffin]

You've certainly done enough to put me off ever having an Insignia diesel!

As to the headlights, you could just drill a small hole in the underside of each one.

[B'stard Child]

SirGriffin said:

You've certainly done enough to put me off ever having an Insignia diesel!

Happy to help spread the awareness - I've always said Vauxhall/Opel haven't made a good car since mid 90's - this one is a good example

SirGriffin said:

As to the headlights, you could just drill a small hole in the underside of each one.

If it gets to the point that I need to drain the ponds that may well be a good option

Having dried them both out a little over a week ago (and let them cool down before replacing the access hatches) it's disappointing to see them both full of condensation again so quickly - especially as she hasn't washed the bloody car!!!

The headlight lenses don't appear to be removable like Vauxhall/Opel ones I'm used to working on (80's and 90's) if it happened on then I'd unclip the lens and replace the rubber seals

[mercedeslimos]

B'stard Child said:

If it gets to the point that I need to drain the ponds that may well be a good option

Having dried them both out a little over a week ago (and let them cool down before replacing the access hatches) it's disappointing to see them both full of condensation again so quickly - especially as she hasn't washed the bloody car!!!

The headlight lenses don't appear to be removable like Vauxhall/Opel ones I'm used to working on (80's and 90's) if it happened on then I'd unclip the lens and replace the rubber seals

They are sealed with Permaseal. Please don't waste your time trying to remove it, it's a bd. I modify headlamps (who doesn't like more light?) and anything since the early noughties used it generally. I bought a set of Audi TT lamps recently and to my huge surprise, it had butyl you could heat, split the lamp, do your jobs, reheat and stick back together with clips! My vote would be 2/3 1mm drilled holes in the lamp, some in the bottom and also on the back up high to let the vapour from heated water out.

[Ruskie]

I had the 2.0 diesel CDTI insignia for 4 years. Hateful thing that used go into limp mode semi-regular. Was clean 60k car and was well serviced by me. Just always something wrong with it, only kept it the last two years as it was lockdown/working abroad. Will never have a Vauxhall again though!

[B'stard Child]

mercedeslimos said:

B'stard Child said:

If it gets to the point that I need to drain the ponds that may well be a good option

Having dried them both out a little over a week ago (and let them cool down before replacing the access hatches) it's disappointing to see them both full of condensation again so quickly - especially as she hasn't washed the bloody car!!!

The headlight lenses don't appear to be removable like Vauxhall/Opel ones I'm used to working on (80's and 90's) if it happened on then I'd unclip the lens and replace the rubber seals

They are sealed with Permaseal. Please don't waste your time trying to remove it, it's a bd. I modify headlamps (who doesn't like more light?) and anything since the early noughties used it generally. I bought a set of Audi TT lamps recently and to my huge surprise, it had butyl you could heat, split the lamp, do your jobs, reheat and stick back together with clips! My vote would be 2/3 1mm drilled holes in the lamp, some in the bottom and also on the back up high to let the vapour from heated water out.

Perforation seems to be a common theme on my google searches - thanks for the advice

[B'stard Child]

Ruskie said:

I had the 2.0 diesel CDTI insignia for 4 years. Hateful thing that used go into limp mode semi-regular. Was clean 60k car and was well serviced by me. Just always something wrong with it, only kept it the last two years as it was lockdown/working abroad. Will never have a Vauxhall again though!

I still own several Opels and one Vauxhall - nothing they made since 1994 appeals in any way - as a manufacturer I think they lost their way and have yet to find it again