der Mumienwagen; E91 330i Touring
Discussion
Mr Whippy said:
Nice work.
Decent weekend job doing all the main oils and aircon!
Do you use a paint thickness gauge before cracking on with a heavy cutting compound?
Thanks. Decent weekend job doing all the main oils and aircon!
Do you use a paint thickness gauge before cracking on with a heavy cutting compound?
I didn’t use a paint gauge. I’m using a DA polisher so it’s not that aggressive; I also don’t think this has ever been owned by a detailer who showed it much love with polish!
MDMA . said:
I’ve just started using this:
It’s really good. Brings the tyres back to ‘as new’. No splatter or marks left after the first driver either.
Interesting; I’ll give that a whirl when the current stuff runs out. It’s really good. Brings the tyres back to ‘as new’. No splatter or marks left after the first driver either.
The Alien Magic stuff I’ve been using is good and doesn’t splatter unlike the Meguairs stuff I used to use which was a nightmare for splatter.
After I dropped my other half and lad off at my sister in laws (they’re heading to Legoland), it was time to crack on with the 330i.
First up was the shifter bush and Z3 shifter. The old white shifter bush was very worn and floppy but was an absolute s
t to get out. In the end I lost patience and mullered it with a drill The access seemed worse than it did on my 130i, so I had to remove the circlip that keys the shifter connected from under the car.
Z3 shifter and new bush greased up and ready to be refitted.
It went back together nice and easily. The shift throw is noticeably shorter.
Next up was the gearbox fluid. I started with the fill plug, just in case. Thus was tight, like really bloody tight but I got it out in the end. The drain plug was equally as tight. The oil that came out was disgusting and very, very black. It didn’t smell great either.
Despite being manky, there didn’t seem to be and metallic flakes. Both plugs were replaced with new OE jobbies and torqued to spec. The gearbox was filled with Redline oil and the shift feels loads better. The CDV is still in place, so that’ll get removed when I replace the gearbox mounts.
Diff oil was up next. Access was blocked by this brace
Once that was removed, it was time to battle the fill / drain plug which was very tight….there’s a thee here!
The oil that I removed didn’t look too grotty bud was replaced with Motul oil to the right spec and finished with a new plug. The brace was reinstalled.
Next up was the engine oil. According on the car it wasn’t due for 4,200 miles, but it was 9k since the last service so was about right. Old oil draining
The old oil filter looked gnarly.
The filter cage was disconnected from the cap but no amount of fiddling to get the two back together. I’m surprised that I hadn’t been getting any error codes / check engine lights because dodgy oil filter caps can cause this as I found out researching the issues on my 335i.
Luckily, I still had the new that I’d removed from my 335i when trying to solve my VANOS issues. Sometimes not chucking stuff out works well.
New Bosch filter installed on a new (old) oil filter cap.
Filled with just over six litres of Millers 5W 30 oil.
In the middle of changing the fluids, the A/C guy popped round and he found the issue really quickly….a big hole in the bottom left corner of the condenser. This is probably the best outcome since a condenser is not massive money and is relatively easy to get at.
The not so good news was when I removed the nearside rear arch liner….it’s a bit crusty under there. Luckily even the worst spot at the base of the arch just above the side skirt is solid. Looks like another job is addd to the list! At the end of the summer, I’ll get both rear arch liners out, clean the crap out and then treat the rust with POR15 or similar, paint it. I’ll get the side skirts off too because it looks like there is some service rust around the plastic jacking blocks. Joy.
First up was the shifter bush and Z3 shifter. The old white shifter bush was very worn and floppy but was an absolute s
t to get out. In the end I lost patience and mullered it with a drill The access seemed worse than it did on my 130i, so I had to remove the circlip that keys the shifter connected from under the car.Z3 shifter and new bush greased up and ready to be refitted.
It went back together nice and easily. The shift throw is noticeably shorter.
Next up was the gearbox fluid. I started with the fill plug, just in case. Thus was tight, like really bloody tight but I got it out in the end. The drain plug was equally as tight. The oil that came out was disgusting and very, very black. It didn’t smell great either.
Despite being manky, there didn’t seem to be and metallic flakes. Both plugs were replaced with new OE jobbies and torqued to spec. The gearbox was filled with Redline oil and the shift feels loads better. The CDV is still in place, so that’ll get removed when I replace the gearbox mounts.
Diff oil was up next. Access was blocked by this brace
Once that was removed, it was time to battle the fill / drain plug which was very tight….there’s a thee here!
The oil that I removed didn’t look too grotty bud was replaced with Motul oil to the right spec and finished with a new plug. The brace was reinstalled.Next up was the engine oil. According on the car it wasn’t due for 4,200 miles, but it was 9k since the last service so was about right. Old oil draining
The old oil filter looked gnarly.
The filter cage was disconnected from the cap but no amount of fiddling to get the two back together. I’m surprised that I hadn’t been getting any error codes / check engine lights because dodgy oil filter caps can cause this as I found out researching the issues on my 335i.
Luckily, I still had the new that I’d removed from my 335i when trying to solve my VANOS issues. Sometimes not chucking stuff out works well.
New Bosch filter installed on a new (old) oil filter cap.
Filled with just over six litres of Millers 5W 30 oil.
In the middle of changing the fluids, the A/C guy popped round and he found the issue really quickly….a big hole in the bottom left corner of the condenser. This is probably the best outcome since a condenser is not massive money and is relatively easy to get at.
The not so good news was when I removed the nearside rear arch liner….it’s a bit crusty under there. Luckily even the worst spot at the base of the arch just above the side skirt is solid. Looks like another job is addd to the list! At the end of the summer, I’ll get both rear arch liners out, clean the crap out and then treat the rust with POR15 or similar, paint it. I’ll get the side skirts off too because it looks like there is some service rust around the plastic jacking blocks. Joy.
I’m planning that job on my 130i this year, I’m sure there is plenty that if left will get ropey in the coming years.
I’ve bought a range of quality brass wire discs/brushes for drills etc to speed the tidying of rusty areas underneath.
Por15 seems popular, does it actually chemically bond to the substrate?
I’ve bought a range of quality brass wire discs/brushes for drills etc to speed the tidying of rusty areas underneath.
Por15 seems popular, does it actually chemically bond to the substrate?
Mr Whippy said:
I’m planning that job on my 130i this year, I’m sure there is plenty that if left will get ropey in the coming years.
I’ve bought a range of quality brass wire discs/brushes for drills etc to speed the tidying of rusty areas underneath.
Por15 seems popular, does it actually chemically bond to the substrate?
I’m not sure how it works if I’m honest, but it does seem very popular. I used it on some very crusty callipers and to be fair, the rust didn’t come back. Whereas on the 125i, I just used calliper paint and rust spots reappeared quite quickly.I’ve bought a range of quality brass wire discs/brushes for drills etc to speed the tidying of rusty areas underneath.
Por15 seems popular, does it actually chemically bond to the substrate?
I’ve only removed the nearside rear arch liner so far, which is probably the worst but there was a lot of crap behind it.
And this is what I’ve got to deal with
I’ll deal with it properly later in the summer; take off the skirts, remove the loose, flaking metal them treat it and paint over it. Looks like every year I’ll be taking the arch liners out to clean / check on the metal going forward. I’ll do the same on my 335i too.
And this is what I’ve got to deal with
I’ll deal with it properly later in the summer; take off the skirts, remove the loose, flaking metal them treat it and paint over it. Looks like every year I’ll be taking the arch liners out to clean / check on the metal going forward. I’ll do the same on my 335i too.
Court_S said:
I’ve only removed the nearside rear arch liner so far, which is probably the worst but there was a lot of crap behind it.
And this is what I’ve got to deal with
I’ll deal with it properly later in the summer; take off the skirts, remove the loose, flaking metal them treat it and paint over it. Looks like every year I’ll be taking the arch liners out to clean / check on the metal going forward. I’ll do the same on my 335i too.
Doesn't look too bad Sam; you'll soon have that brushed back & coated And this is what I’ve got to deal with
I’ll deal with it properly later in the summer; take off the skirts, remove the loose, flaking metal them treat it and paint over it. Looks like every year I’ll be taking the arch liners out to clean / check on the metal going forward. I’ll do the same on my 335i too.
Always thought the E6x and E9x range were fairly corrosion proof; hell of a lot more so than the E46s and E38/E39 ear cars!
Court_S said:
After I dropped my other half and lad off at my sister in laws (they’re heading to Legoland), it was time to crack on with the 330i.
First up was the shifter bush and Z3 shifter. The old white shifter bush was very worn and floppy but was an absolute st to get out. In the end I lost patience and mullered it with a drill The access seemed worse than it did on my 130i, so I had to remove the circlip that keys the shifter connected from under the car.
Z3 shifter and new bush greased up and ready to be refitted.
It went back together nice and easily. The shift throw is noticeably shorter.
Next up was the gearbox fluid. I started with the fill plug, just in case. Thus was tight, like really bloody tight but I got it out in the end. The drain plug was equally as tight. The oil that came out was disgusting and very, very black. It didn’t smell great either.
Despite being manky, there didn’t seem to be and metallic flakes. Both plugs were replaced with new OE jobbies and torqued to spec. The gearbox was filled with Redline oil and the shift feels loads better. The CDV is still in place, so that’ll get removed when I replace the gearbox mounts.
Diff oil was up next. Access was blocked by this brace
Once that was removed, it was time to battle the fill / drain plug which was very tight….there’s a thee here! The oil that I removed didn’t look too grotty bud was replaced with Motul oil to the right spec and finished with a new plug. The brace was reinstalled.
Next up was the engine oil. According on the car it wasn’t due for 4,200 miles, but it was 9k since the last service so was about right. Old oil draining
The old oil filter looked gnarly.
The filter cage was disconnected from the cap but no amount of fiddling to get the two back together. I’m surprised that I hadn’t been getting any error codes / check engine lights because dodgy oil filter caps can cause this as I found out researching the issues on my 335i.
Luckily, I still had the new that I’d removed from my 335i when trying to solve my VANOS issues. Sometimes not chucking stuff out works well.
New Bosch filter installed on a new (old) oil filter cap.
Filled with just over six litres of Millers 5W 30 oil.
In the middle of changing the fluids, the A/C guy popped round and he found the issue really quickly….a big hole in the bottom left corner of the condenser. This is probably the best outcome since a condenser is not massive money and is relatively easy to get at.
The not so good news was when I removed the nearside rear arch liner….it’s a bit crusty under there. Luckily even the worst spot at the base of the arch just above the side skirt is solid. Looks like another job is addd to the list! At the end of the summer, I’ll get both rear arch liners out, clean the crap out and then treat the rust with POR15 or similar, paint it. I’ll get the side skirts off too because it looks like there is some service rust around the plastic jacking blocks. Joy.
Some nice progress there. I really need to get my rear arches sorted sooner rather than later. Mine are further gone than your's though so there'll be some welding and painting to be done. Just trying to find someone who can do both things well. First up was the shifter bush and Z3 shifter. The old white shifter bush was very worn and floppy but was an absolute s
t to get out. In the end I lost patience and mullered it with a drill The access seemed worse than it did on my 130i, so I had to remove the circlip that keys the shifter connected from under the car.Z3 shifter and new bush greased up and ready to be refitted.
It went back together nice and easily. The shift throw is noticeably shorter.
Next up was the gearbox fluid. I started with the fill plug, just in case. Thus was tight, like really bloody tight but I got it out in the end. The drain plug was equally as tight. The oil that came out was disgusting and very, very black. It didn’t smell great either.
Despite being manky, there didn’t seem to be and metallic flakes. Both plugs were replaced with new OE jobbies and torqued to spec. The gearbox was filled with Redline oil and the shift feels loads better. The CDV is still in place, so that’ll get removed when I replace the gearbox mounts.
Diff oil was up next. Access was blocked by this brace
Once that was removed, it was time to battle the fill / drain plug which was very tight….there’s a thee here!
The oil that I removed didn’t look too grotty bud was replaced with Motul oil to the right spec and finished with a new plug. The brace was reinstalled.Next up was the engine oil. According on the car it wasn’t due for 4,200 miles, but it was 9k since the last service so was about right. Old oil draining
The old oil filter looked gnarly.
The filter cage was disconnected from the cap but no amount of fiddling to get the two back together. I’m surprised that I hadn’t been getting any error codes / check engine lights because dodgy oil filter caps can cause this as I found out researching the issues on my 335i.
Luckily, I still had the new that I’d removed from my 335i when trying to solve my VANOS issues. Sometimes not chucking stuff out works well.
New Bosch filter installed on a new (old) oil filter cap.
Filled with just over six litres of Millers 5W 30 oil.
In the middle of changing the fluids, the A/C guy popped round and he found the issue really quickly….a big hole in the bottom left corner of the condenser. This is probably the best outcome since a condenser is not massive money and is relatively easy to get at.
The not so good news was when I removed the nearside rear arch liner….it’s a bit crusty under there. Luckily even the worst spot at the base of the arch just above the side skirt is solid. Looks like another job is addd to the list! At the end of the summer, I’ll get both rear arch liners out, clean the crap out and then treat the rust with POR15 or similar, paint it. I’ll get the side skirts off too because it looks like there is some service rust around the plastic jacking blocks. Joy.
On the AC, are you thinking of doing the condenser yourself? It looks like a long job but not a complex one. I'm partly asking because I had a look for my AC problem the other night and I wasn't 100% convinced that it's the high pressure pipe which was my first suspect. I think I'm going to do that anyway as they do corrode and it's not the most expensive part. But I do have a hole on the mesh on my bumper in front of the condenser and I'm starting to wonder if that might actually be my issue too so it's tempting to do that as well before even attempting a refill.
I took a look at ECP and they list three. A starline one at £45, a Denso one at £300 and an EIS one in the middle at £120. I'm guessing the Starline one is junk but is the EIS one any good? The denso one is bit too much to just replace for the sake of it.
d_a_n1979 said:
Doesn't look too bad Sam; you'll soon have that brushed back & coated
Always thought the E6x and E9x range were fairly corrosion proof; hell of a lot more so than the E46s and E38/E39 ear cars!
At least it’s solid! I had a good poke at it with a screwdriver and didn’t make any holes which is good! Always thought the E6x and E9x range were fairly corrosion proof; hell of a lot more so than the E46s and E38/E39 ear cars!
I think this era is better, but the car is 17 years old as of tomorrow and it’s done 159k. I think as it’s a touring, it’s had a harder life too and has been used as a workhorse whereas as 335i was a toy.
I’ll have a fun weekend at some point by the looks of it.
Gad-Westy said:
Some nice progress there. I really need to get my rear arches sorted sooner rather than later. Mine are further gone than your's though so there'll be some welding and painting to be done. Just trying to find someone who can do both things well.
On the AC, are you thinking of doing the condenser yourself? It looks like a long job but not a complex one. I'm partly asking because I had a look for my AC problem the other night and I wasn't 100% convinced that it's the high pressure pipe which was my first suspect. I think I'm going to do that anyway as they do corrode and it's not the most expensive part. But I do have a hole on the mesh on my bumper in front of the condenser and I'm starting to wonder if that might actually be my issue too so it's tempting to do that as well before even attempting a refill.
I took a look at ECP and they list three. A starline one at £45, a Denso one at £300 and an EIS one in the middle at £120. I'm guessing the Starline one is junk but is the EIS one any good? The denso one is bit too much to just replace for the sake of it.
There is a small bubble appearing on the nearside rear arch which will need addressing by a body shop, but that’ll keep until next year. I’ve treated the inner face this morning and popped sone POR15 on to try and slow it if nothing else.On the AC, are you thinking of doing the condenser yourself? It looks like a long job but not a complex one. I'm partly asking because I had a look for my AC problem the other night and I wasn't 100% convinced that it's the high pressure pipe which was my first suspect. I think I'm going to do that anyway as they do corrode and it's not the most expensive part. But I do have a hole on the mesh on my bumper in front of the condenser and I'm starting to wonder if that might actually be my issue too so it's tempting to do that as well before even attempting a refill.
I took a look at ECP and they list three. A starline one at £45, a Denso one at £300 and an EIS one in the middle at £120. I'm guessing the Starline one is junk but is the EIS one any good? The denso one is bit too much to just replace for the sake of it.
I’m waiting for a quote on the condenser, but having watched a video I might do a lot of the donkey work myself (drain the coolant and remove the rad and fan) to keep costs down. They guy who came out is car guy as well (he’s into Volvo’s) and is happy to work with customers to keep costs sensible.
The damage to mine is pretty noticeable with a torch.
I might buy a Nissens one from Autodoc. Their rads seem well thought of and it’s £75 on Autodoc today.
MDMA . said:
Do you have the PN’s for the shifter and bush? Will this mod suit any 6 speed E91 car?
The shifter bush part number is 25111220600.I don’t have the part number for the shifter - it’s off a 1.9 Z3. These seem to be used a bit on 130i’s now the short shifter kit is unavailable. I paid £15 for it. It’ll fit pretty much any manual BMW from what I can tell.
Court_S said:
The shifter bush part number is 25111220600.
I don’t have the part number for the shifter - it’s off a 1.9 Z3. These seem to be used a bit on 130i’s now the short shifter kit is unavailable. I paid £15 for it. It’ll fit pretty much any manual BMW from what I can tell.
Cheers. I don’t have the part number for the shifter - it’s off a 1.9 Z3. These seem to be used a bit on 130i’s now the short shifter kit is unavailable. I paid £15 for it. It’ll fit pretty much any manual BMW from what I can tell.
Court_S said:
d_a_n1979 said:
For £300 I'd deffo leave it for them to do / deal with the headaches etc... Makes a lot of sense!
Yup….I’m providing the condenser since I can get it a bit quicker somehow (!). Ive ordered a Nissens one from AUTODOC which had 41% off it today. Booked in for 18th June.
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