1979 Mercedes 450 SLC
Discussion
alabbasi said:
paulyv said:
That's useful to know - with a spray you mean?
The trim easily comes in and out of the car so I can do this at any time.
Yes , automotive clear is best as it hardens chemically and has lots of UV protection The trim easily comes in and out of the car so I can do this at any time.
Something else that was letting the interior down was the headrests. The horsehair within them must have been the original filling and it had started to degrade meaning small fibres were falling out whenever the headrest was moved.
German Ebay came to the rescue with 2 foam replacements which seemed to fit the bill perfectly.
I ordered and they arrived within the week. Taking the headrests apart required unpicking the stitching and taking out what was frankly a rotten mop of hair from some mighty steed who fell on hard times over 40 years ago. I didn't take pictures and binned the mass of hair as quickly as possible...it wasn't pleasant.
Getting the new foam in was something of a squeeze but after 20 minutes of swearing I got them in.
They look, and more importantly smell, really good, and completely fill out the leather. They are currently off being restitched but will be yet another step towards making the interior a pleasant place to spend the summer.
I'd like to get rid of the horsehair in the seats at some point in the coming year, but one thing at once. Next purchase will be new door card covers. My car currently seems to have plain black vinyl cards, with no pattern at all, which clearly isn't original spec. Ebay in the States has revealed some great replacements which will be ordered in a week or two.
German Ebay came to the rescue with 2 foam replacements which seemed to fit the bill perfectly.
I ordered and they arrived within the week. Taking the headrests apart required unpicking the stitching and taking out what was frankly a rotten mop of hair from some mighty steed who fell on hard times over 40 years ago. I didn't take pictures and binned the mass of hair as quickly as possible...it wasn't pleasant.
Getting the new foam in was something of a squeeze but after 20 minutes of swearing I got them in.
They look, and more importantly smell, really good, and completely fill out the leather. They are currently off being restitched but will be yet another step towards making the interior a pleasant place to spend the summer.
I'd like to get rid of the horsehair in the seats at some point in the coming year, but one thing at once. Next purchase will be new door card covers. My car currently seems to have plain black vinyl cards, with no pattern at all, which clearly isn't original spec. Ebay in the States has revealed some great replacements which will be ordered in a week or two.
Krikkit said:
I love the comparative sauce debate whilst fixing veneers. My father's MGB has exactly the same issue, I might borrow this technique at some point to sort it.
You can definitely do it, that was all I really wanted to impart from my post, and you can likely do it a little better than I did. Perhaps try a baked potato in the oven but remember to pop it in 35 minutes before the trim. The 450 is back at the garage, as planned I should add.
Even considering the amount of work it had done at Edward Hall last year there were still things outstanding that had to be done, so at Christmas I booked it into SS Motors at Addlestone in Surrey, just around the corner from Brooklands. First availability even back then was 1st April so there it resides for the moment.
Footwell leak, pneumatic system, blower motor and heating system as well as possibly air-con are all being looked at. Got a call from Joe over there today, who I might add seems to be a very nice chap who really knows these cars.
No bad news thus far. The bulkhead appears fine and has previously had a lot of work done (which tallies with what Edward Hall said), but there is an area which appears to be leaking a little. This is being attended to, then the area is being completely sealed which should ensure we are good for a few years. I'll then be fitting brand new sound insulation matting and carpets myself.
The air system which covers the central locking and heating is being systematically checked through with some new hoses arriving in a day or two. No news yet but so far things look promising and he appears confident we should be okay. As the heating controls are partly powered by the pneumatic pipes he will move on to this later in the week.
The new blower motor I got from SL Shop is installed and working perfectly and he'll also throw a belt on the air-con compressor on the off-chance that it'll work without too much extra investment. He did point out something blindingly obvious - that the air-con condenser fan at the front of the car is completely missing...no idea what the story there is.
If I learn anything of value from this trip I'll be sure to post it here.
Progress ahoy so let's see what the end of the week brings. Sadly it likely won't be ready for the Goodwood Members Meeting on Sunday, but I can take the Puma which I only today fixed with my own fair hands (was stalling at roundabouts so fitted a new Idle Control Vale and Mass Airflow Sensor - easily done with 2 screwdrivers and half an hour if anyone has the same problem).
As an aside isn't Brooklands Museum quite the place? I had forgotten they had a Concorde which looked out through the trees as I arrived. I spent a great 3 hours there taking it all in. The VC-10 must have been a lovely aircraft to fly in and they have two - one of which is kitted out for the Sultan of Oman in true 80's fashion. If you haven't been yet I'd thoroughly recommend it (Brooklands I mean, I can't tell you about Oman so you'll have to make your own judgement there).
Even considering the amount of work it had done at Edward Hall last year there were still things outstanding that had to be done, so at Christmas I booked it into SS Motors at Addlestone in Surrey, just around the corner from Brooklands. First availability even back then was 1st April so there it resides for the moment.
Footwell leak, pneumatic system, blower motor and heating system as well as possibly air-con are all being looked at. Got a call from Joe over there today, who I might add seems to be a very nice chap who really knows these cars.
No bad news thus far. The bulkhead appears fine and has previously had a lot of work done (which tallies with what Edward Hall said), but there is an area which appears to be leaking a little. This is being attended to, then the area is being completely sealed which should ensure we are good for a few years. I'll then be fitting brand new sound insulation matting and carpets myself.
The air system which covers the central locking and heating is being systematically checked through with some new hoses arriving in a day or two. No news yet but so far things look promising and he appears confident we should be okay. As the heating controls are partly powered by the pneumatic pipes he will move on to this later in the week.
The new blower motor I got from SL Shop is installed and working perfectly and he'll also throw a belt on the air-con compressor on the off-chance that it'll work without too much extra investment. He did point out something blindingly obvious - that the air-con condenser fan at the front of the car is completely missing...no idea what the story there is.
If I learn anything of value from this trip I'll be sure to post it here.
Progress ahoy so let's see what the end of the week brings. Sadly it likely won't be ready for the Goodwood Members Meeting on Sunday, but I can take the Puma which I only today fixed with my own fair hands (was stalling at roundabouts so fitted a new Idle Control Vale and Mass Airflow Sensor - easily done with 2 screwdrivers and half an hour if anyone has the same problem).
As an aside isn't Brooklands Museum quite the place? I had forgotten they had a Concorde which looked out through the trees as I arrived. I spent a great 3 hours there taking it all in. The VC-10 must have been a lovely aircraft to fly in and they have two - one of which is kitted out for the Sultan of Oman in true 80's fashion. If you haven't been yet I'd thoroughly recommend it (Brooklands I mean, I can't tell you about Oman so you'll have to make your own judgement there).
Edited by paulyv on Tuesday 2nd April 21:29
The SLC is ready to collect. I shall be making my way over to SS Motors on Thursday.
Yet to see their work, but their communication and attention to detail has been top drawer and I look forward to taking the car up the A1 to Woodhall Spa this weekend to stay at the excellent, and rather historic, Petwood Hotel.
The below has been done over the past fortnight, as listed in my not unreasonable bill. Please excuse the capitalisation as I am not typing it all out again. In short I have a working blower fan, working heating controls, working central locking, working seat lock mechanisms, locking petrol flap, even working air-powered headlight levels. I should also have working air-con once the old illegal gas has been removed and replaced. Most important of all no leaks into the footwell - a poor weld from previous bulkhead work was found to be the culprit, so I think I got off lightly there.
Next up is a respray to cover those scratches.
REMOVE BLOWER MOTOR COVER, INSPECT MOTOR & SPEED SENSOR
CONDITION & WIRING. TRACE FAULT TO SPEED SENSOR WIRING MISSING
& DIRTY CONTACTS ON SPEED SENSOR. REMOVE SPEED SENSOR, CLEAN
UP & RESET CONTACTS. MAKE-UP & FIT NEW WIRING. CONNECT UP &
TEST SPEED FUNCTIONS, REFIT COVER & SEAL UP JOINT
REMOVE REAR SEATS, CLEAN UP BACK SECTION TOP LIP & REFIT MATERIAL
BACK INTO PLACE, REGLUE JOINT. REFIT BOTH SEATS
CONNECT UP ALL VARIOUS VACUUM SYSTEMS PIPES & FIT NEW VACUUM
CONTROL VALVES & JOINTS. TEST ALL SYSTEM OPERATIONS
CONNECT TESTING GAUGES ON SEAT LOCKING SYSTEMS. TRACE FAULT
TO SWITCH NOT CONNECTED ON 'A' FRAMES & BROKEN N/S DOOR SWITCH
RECONNECT BOTH SWITCHES VACUUM LINES INSIDE 'A' PILLARS & RECHECK
FUNCTIONS ON SEATS, FIT SWITCH ON N/S
CONNECT TESTING GAUGES ON CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM, TRACE FAULT
TO TANK FILLER FLAP ELEMENT MISSING & JOINTS. SUPPLY & FIT NEW
TANK ELEMENT UNIT & RETURN SPRING, RECONNECT SYSTEM ON UNIT
RECHECK CONTROL VACUUM LOCKING SYSTEM ON BOOT
AND N/S DOOR AND FLAP
CONNECT TOWING GAUGES ON H/LAMP DIPPING VACUUM SYSTEMS
TRACE FAULT TO O/S/F H/LAMP SECTIONS MISSING
REMOVE LAMP AND FIT GOOD LAMP ASSEMBLY
RECHECK SYSTEM OPERATION AND FUNCTIONS
CHECK HEATER CONTROL SYSTEMS AND A/C SYSTEM
TRACE TO CONTROL VACUUM SYSTEM NOT WORKING CORRECTLY
BEHIND CENTRAL CONSOLE HOUSING, REMOVE CENTRAL FACIAS
AND CONTROLS, REMOVE CENTRAL CONSOLE HOUSING
CHECK LEVERS AND SWITCHES OPERATION, RECONNECT PIPES
ON SWITCHES CORRECTLY AND REFIT PIPES ON A/C CONTROL SWITCH
S/F NEW A/C SWITCH RETAINER, REASSEMBLE FULLY CENTRAL
CONSOLE HOUSING AND BOTH DASH UNDERTRAYS
RECHECK HEATER FUNCTIONS
S/F NEW A/C COMPRESSOR FANBELT AND REPLACE SEIZED ADJUSTER
JOCKEY WHEEL, TEST SYSTEM OPERATIONS (SEE REPORT)
REMOVE O/S/F TOP SCREEN GRILLE AND COVERS
CARRY OUT TESTS ON BULKHEAD SECTIONS
TRACE TO NEW WELDING SEAMS LEAKING WATER
INTO VEHICLE, RESEAL WELD JOINTS AND SURFACE AREAS WITH
SEALANT AND WAX OIL ALL BULKHEAD SURFACES ON O/S/F
MAKE UP MISSING TOP COVER SECTION AND FIT INTO PLACE
TO PROTECT AIR FLAP OPENING FROM WATER INGRESS
RECHECK VEHICLE ON O/S FOR LEAKS
REPORT:
A/CON NEEDS UPGRADING TO R132A TYPE GAS
NEEDS NEW CONNECTORS, CORRECT A/CON DRIER UNIT
SPECIAL SEALING PIPE, OIL FILLED IN UNIT,
SYSTEM FILLED WITH NEW GAS, VEHICLE TESTED
WE RECOMMEND YOU TAKE VEHICLE TO A/CON SPECIALIST
PARTS:
RUBBER JOINTS (4 WAY)
FUEL FILLER DOOR ELEMENT
RETURN SPRING
VALVES
RUBBER JOINTS (3 WAY)
H/LAMP UNIT
A/C TENSIONER WHEEL
A/C FANBELT
WAX OIL
SEALER
DOOR LIGHT SWITCH
TRIM RING
SNAP RING
SUNDRIES
Yet to see their work, but their communication and attention to detail has been top drawer and I look forward to taking the car up the A1 to Woodhall Spa this weekend to stay at the excellent, and rather historic, Petwood Hotel.
The below has been done over the past fortnight, as listed in my not unreasonable bill. Please excuse the capitalisation as I am not typing it all out again. In short I have a working blower fan, working heating controls, working central locking, working seat lock mechanisms, locking petrol flap, even working air-powered headlight levels. I should also have working air-con once the old illegal gas has been removed and replaced. Most important of all no leaks into the footwell - a poor weld from previous bulkhead work was found to be the culprit, so I think I got off lightly there.
Next up is a respray to cover those scratches.
REMOVE BLOWER MOTOR COVER, INSPECT MOTOR & SPEED SENSOR
CONDITION & WIRING. TRACE FAULT TO SPEED SENSOR WIRING MISSING
& DIRTY CONTACTS ON SPEED SENSOR. REMOVE SPEED SENSOR, CLEAN
UP & RESET CONTACTS. MAKE-UP & FIT NEW WIRING. CONNECT UP &
TEST SPEED FUNCTIONS, REFIT COVER & SEAL UP JOINT
REMOVE REAR SEATS, CLEAN UP BACK SECTION TOP LIP & REFIT MATERIAL
BACK INTO PLACE, REGLUE JOINT. REFIT BOTH SEATS
CONNECT UP ALL VARIOUS VACUUM SYSTEMS PIPES & FIT NEW VACUUM
CONTROL VALVES & JOINTS. TEST ALL SYSTEM OPERATIONS
CONNECT TESTING GAUGES ON SEAT LOCKING SYSTEMS. TRACE FAULT
TO SWITCH NOT CONNECTED ON 'A' FRAMES & BROKEN N/S DOOR SWITCH
RECONNECT BOTH SWITCHES VACUUM LINES INSIDE 'A' PILLARS & RECHECK
FUNCTIONS ON SEATS, FIT SWITCH ON N/S
CONNECT TESTING GAUGES ON CENTRAL LOCKING SYSTEM, TRACE FAULT
TO TANK FILLER FLAP ELEMENT MISSING & JOINTS. SUPPLY & FIT NEW
TANK ELEMENT UNIT & RETURN SPRING, RECONNECT SYSTEM ON UNIT
RECHECK CONTROL VACUUM LOCKING SYSTEM ON BOOT
AND N/S DOOR AND FLAP
CONNECT TOWING GAUGES ON H/LAMP DIPPING VACUUM SYSTEMS
TRACE FAULT TO O/S/F H/LAMP SECTIONS MISSING
REMOVE LAMP AND FIT GOOD LAMP ASSEMBLY
RECHECK SYSTEM OPERATION AND FUNCTIONS
CHECK HEATER CONTROL SYSTEMS AND A/C SYSTEM
TRACE TO CONTROL VACUUM SYSTEM NOT WORKING CORRECTLY
BEHIND CENTRAL CONSOLE HOUSING, REMOVE CENTRAL FACIAS
AND CONTROLS, REMOVE CENTRAL CONSOLE HOUSING
CHECK LEVERS AND SWITCHES OPERATION, RECONNECT PIPES
ON SWITCHES CORRECTLY AND REFIT PIPES ON A/C CONTROL SWITCH
S/F NEW A/C SWITCH RETAINER, REASSEMBLE FULLY CENTRAL
CONSOLE HOUSING AND BOTH DASH UNDERTRAYS
RECHECK HEATER FUNCTIONS
S/F NEW A/C COMPRESSOR FANBELT AND REPLACE SEIZED ADJUSTER
JOCKEY WHEEL, TEST SYSTEM OPERATIONS (SEE REPORT)
REMOVE O/S/F TOP SCREEN GRILLE AND COVERS
CARRY OUT TESTS ON BULKHEAD SECTIONS
TRACE TO NEW WELDING SEAMS LEAKING WATER
INTO VEHICLE, RESEAL WELD JOINTS AND SURFACE AREAS WITH
SEALANT AND WAX OIL ALL BULKHEAD SURFACES ON O/S/F
MAKE UP MISSING TOP COVER SECTION AND FIT INTO PLACE
TO PROTECT AIR FLAP OPENING FROM WATER INGRESS
RECHECK VEHICLE ON O/S FOR LEAKS
REPORT:
A/CON NEEDS UPGRADING TO R132A TYPE GAS
NEEDS NEW CONNECTORS, CORRECT A/CON DRIER UNIT
SPECIAL SEALING PIPE, OIL FILLED IN UNIT,
SYSTEM FILLED WITH NEW GAS, VEHICLE TESTED
WE RECOMMEND YOU TAKE VEHICLE TO A/CON SPECIALIST
PARTS:
RUBBER JOINTS (4 WAY)
FUEL FILLER DOOR ELEMENT
RETURN SPRING
VALVES
RUBBER JOINTS (3 WAY)
H/LAMP UNIT
A/C TENSIONER WHEEL
A/C FANBELT
WAX OIL
SEALER
DOOR LIGHT SWITCH
TRIM RING
SNAP RING
SUNDRIES
Edited by paulyv on Tuesday 16th April 23:00
I think that they meant R134a vs 132a, If you're going to do this, they should flush the system of all the old mineral oil and replace with PAG oil. The hoses also need to be changed out to barrier hoses, otherwise you'll have a slow leak as R134a molecules are smaller and will get past the rubber.
R134a does not function worth a damn in Texas in a W107 body car, but it might be good enough for England.
R134a does not function worth a damn in Texas in a W107 body car, but it might be good enough for England.
alabbasi said:
I think that they meant R134a vs 132a, If you're going to do this, they should flush the system of all the old mineral oil and replace with PAG oil. The hoses also need to be changed out to barrier hoses, otherwise you'll have a slow leak as R134a molecules are smaller and will get past the rubber.
R134a does not function worth a damn in Texas in a W107 body car, but it might be good enough for England.
Brilliant, thank you very much. As I understand it from stuff I read ages ago the current gas, what little of it remains, is illegal to supply now hence has to be removed and replaced with something that won't tear a hole in space-time.R134a does not function worth a damn in Texas in a W107 body car, but it might be good enough for England.
Yep, apparently the chlorine in CFC's will break down the ozone layer but the chlorine in swimming pools won't. Don't ask me why. The trick is to make sure that you have a perfectly sealed system so that it never has to escape. I'm particularly cautious about my reserves which is why I keep them in my bedroom.
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