Jesters Collection - Mazda 3MPS/RX8 R3/RX7/MINI Cooper S
Discussion
Great stuff, the sub 1300kg wet and perfect balance is I think a big part of why these cars drive so well.
Agree on the wheel sizes too, I think 18" can look good on 'racing' RX-7s with aero parts, but 17" is the sweet spot for stock-body cars. All based on what one's used to seeing of course.
Agree on the wheel sizes too, I think 18" can look good on 'racing' RX-7s with aero parts, but 17" is the sweet spot for stock-body cars. All based on what one's used to seeing of course.
samoht said:
Great stuff, the sub 1300kg wet and perfect balance is I think a big part of why these cars drive so well.
Agree on the wheel sizes too, I think 18" can look good on 'racing' RX-7s with aero parts, but 17" is the sweet spot for stock-body cars. All based on what one's used to seeing of course.
The only 18's that give me pause are TE37's, but they look awesome on pretty much everything Agree on the wheel sizes too, I think 18" can look good on 'racing' RX-7s with aero parts, but 17" is the sweet spot for stock-body cars. All based on what one's used to seeing of course.
Ilovejapcrap said:
What a thread ! Loving it.
Username checks out! 
Love what you are doing here!
Jester86 said:
As we all know mods are such a slippery slope. But next is going to be trying to adjust the driving position to better suit me. So dished steering wheel, most likely Nardi to maintain some OEM ness to see if it clears my thighs a bit more. Hopefully that will get it bang on, otherwise I may have to look at seats. Tillets are looking mighty tempting, but it would be a shame to lose the originals as they are really comfortable.
I had a similar dilemma in my mx5 NC, I went for the tillet b5 with pads. Very expensive, and I really wanted to stay oem, but it completely transformed the car for me so a worthy change. Also amazingly comfortable considering what they are.In my NA a used a wheel spacer at first which did improve things but ultimately ended up with Elise seats which again made a big difference.
I've only read good things about TIllets, bonus being they are made down here in Kent. So I'd be tempted to go and have a visit and see if I can sit in a few.
They do seem to be an ideal fit for the very narrow 7 cabin, while being able to take a broad man in comfort, which is my issue. I sat in some Brides while I was at TPS and they are just too narrow for me.
I'd love to get the stock seats recovered and see if a little bit of padding could be taken out of the base to lower my legs a little while remaining comfortable, that being the other option. But even that is not cheap.
They do seem to be an ideal fit for the very narrow 7 cabin, while being able to take a broad man in comfort, which is my issue. I sat in some Brides while I was at TPS and they are just too narrow for me.
I'd love to get the stock seats recovered and see if a little bit of padding could be taken out of the base to lower my legs a little while remaining comfortable, that being the other option. But even that is not cheap.
Jester86 said:
I've only read good things about TIllets, bonus being they are made down here in Kent. So I'd be tempted to go and have a visit and see if I can sit in a few.
They do seem to be an ideal fit for the very narrow 7 cabin, while being able to take a broad man in comfort, which is my issue. I sat in some Brides while I was at TPS and they are just too narrow for me.
I'd love to get the stock seats recovered and see if a little bit of padding could be taken out of the base to lower my legs a little while remaining comfortable, that being the other option. But even that is not cheap.
I spoke to them directly at the time and they were super helpful. I'm 6ft5 and was very comfortable in them. They do seem to be an ideal fit for the very narrow 7 cabin, while being able to take a broad man in comfort, which is my issue. I sat in some Brides while I was at TPS and they are just too narrow for me.
I'd love to get the stock seats recovered and see if a little bit of padding could be taken out of the base to lower my legs a little while remaining comfortable, that being the other option. But even that is not cheap.
I also looked into getting seats re-covered and it was ultimately just as expensive as tillets and no guarantee of success. Definitely try a deep dish first though as you say....
While having the 4 wheel alignment, I noticed that one of the brake lights was out. So I decided it was a great idea to replace all the brake lights and rear indicators at the same time.
Really easy to get the rear lights out, 3 screws on each side and they slide out, as you look at the car from the rear the left light slides out to the left and the right light slides out to the right. Don't pull them towards you as you are likely to pop off the tabs.
Being super keen I managed to buy the wrong red OSRAM LED's BA15s, instead of BAY15d. Also when installing the rear indicators the car started to hyper flash.
FDOC.co.uk to the rescue who pointed out that I need to carry out a small mod in order to stop the hyper flash. This was removing CPU#2 from the drivers footwell, popping out the LED flasher circuit and removing a single resistor.
Old cars are so easy to pull apart, 2 bolts to remove the scuff plate, 2 interior pop screws to remove the plastic cover, 1 nut and 3 electrical connectors and we had...
Noticed a bit of a crack in the plastic around where you screw the nut down to hold the CPU in place. So I filled that in with a bit of super glue as a stop gap to give it a bit of a strength.
Then all you do is desolder resistor R1.
Put everything back together and hey presto you have normal indicatior flashes. That along with the correct OSRAM LED's for the normal/brake lights and we now have some upgraded bulbs. Well worth the trouble.
Really easy to get the rear lights out, 3 screws on each side and they slide out, as you look at the car from the rear the left light slides out to the left and the right light slides out to the right. Don't pull them towards you as you are likely to pop off the tabs.
Being super keen I managed to buy the wrong red OSRAM LED's BA15s, instead of BAY15d. Also when installing the rear indicators the car started to hyper flash.
FDOC.co.uk to the rescue who pointed out that I need to carry out a small mod in order to stop the hyper flash. This was removing CPU#2 from the drivers footwell, popping out the LED flasher circuit and removing a single resistor.
Old cars are so easy to pull apart, 2 bolts to remove the scuff plate, 2 interior pop screws to remove the plastic cover, 1 nut and 3 electrical connectors and we had...
Noticed a bit of a crack in the plastic around where you screw the nut down to hold the CPU in place. So I filled that in with a bit of super glue as a stop gap to give it a bit of a strength.
Then all you do is desolder resistor R1.
Put everything back together and hey presto you have normal indicatior flashes. That along with the correct OSRAM LED's for the normal/brake lights and we now have some upgraded bulbs. Well worth the trouble.
RX7 let me down a few days ago, well I say the RX7, the Clifford let me down. Lovely day so drove the car to the gym, when I came back out I couldn't unlock the car with the fob. Assuming it was to do with my positive batt terminal I got in manually and found it wasnt the battery.
The Clifford key fob battery had died! Now you cannot start the car without it, as it disconnects the immobiliser allowing you to start the car. So I had to rob someones battery, start the car, then give it to them back
As a result of this I changed the batteries when I got home with spares I had lying around and ordered 2 sets to keep in the car along with a small 1/4" multi tool set for getting you out of small troubles.
Today I changed the positive battery terminal, rather handily a Nissan terminal is a direct fit P/N 24340-7F000. So for £6.80 it came across the world for me to fit. First impressions and it looks really solid and fit for purpose.
This is the old one, trying to give you an impression of how crumpled and fatigued it was.
So fingers crossed this now sorts the issue of the terminal working its way loose while driving.
While we are on the battery saga, I have fitted a CTEK Comfort Indicator to the MPS as well. Just to make it easier to pop her on charge if she is standing around for a little while. While also giving me a quick indicator of battery level.
The Clifford key fob battery had died! Now you cannot start the car without it, as it disconnects the immobiliser allowing you to start the car. So I had to rob someones battery, start the car, then give it to them back
As a result of this I changed the batteries when I got home with spares I had lying around and ordered 2 sets to keep in the car along with a small 1/4" multi tool set for getting you out of small troubles.
Today I changed the positive battery terminal, rather handily a Nissan terminal is a direct fit P/N 24340-7F000. So for £6.80 it came across the world for me to fit. First impressions and it looks really solid and fit for purpose.
This is the old one, trying to give you an impression of how crumpled and fatigued it was.
So fingers crossed this now sorts the issue of the terminal working its way loose while driving.
While we are on the battery saga, I have fitted a CTEK Comfort Indicator to the MPS as well. Just to make it easier to pop her on charge if she is standing around for a little while. While also giving me a quick indicator of battery level.
A bit of a mixed week here.
I was all set to be getting the RX7 ready for JDM Combe this weekend, when my wife tested positive for COVID yesterday. Even though I am testing negative I was meant to be staying with my mum, who unfortunately is in the middle of cancer treatment, so the decision was made to give it a miss as the risk is too much. Booking a last minute hotel is too expensive really.
So I did a little job on the MPS that has been outstanding for a little while and has caused a minor annoyance since I have been a steward of the car. The armrest compartment latch has broken. So I purchased a replacement off of eBay for the princely sum of £15.
It isn't perfect obviously but has a working latch. Gave it a quick clean to get someone elses sweaty arm off of it and off to work I went.
You have to remove the centre tunnel plastics to swap it over.
I seem to be getting quite adept at getting them out now
A couple of screws under the arm rest and it all comes apart easily. New one installed and then the usual reversal of removal to refit. Found a few trim clips that had fallen down, probably from various headunit installs in the past. So you never know, may have eliminated a rattle or 2. Still no sign of the threaded ball from the shortshifter , that has definitely disappeared into the ether.
There is meant to be a plastic tab with a hook that comes down from that top catch.
So another job off the list.
Just some general thoughts/musings on the current fleet and future plans.
RX7 - Get out and drive it some more. This weekend was going to pack on a good few hundred miles but thats been scuppered. Order steering wheel/boss.
MPS - The next stage apart from continuing maintenance is a set of 8-pot KSports. But this requires new wheels also, have my eye on Braid Fullrace as they can be made to spec. But thats £2.5k of parts so some saving needs to be done. Further ahead I do want to get the interior retrimmed, smatters of alcantara and going to orange stitch across the car. More saving needs to be done.
RX8 - Still have a real soft spot for this car. Does everything I want it to really well. Although soon I'll have to decide if it stays or if I want to start putting money into it refreshing bits and bobs.
Yaris - Still excellent. But unsure of its place in the long term. Not going to lie have started looking at early Audi R8 V8 manuals between £35/£40k. As releasing the Yaris and RX8 from service would effectively make it a no cost swap.
I was all set to be getting the RX7 ready for JDM Combe this weekend, when my wife tested positive for COVID yesterday. Even though I am testing negative I was meant to be staying with my mum, who unfortunately is in the middle of cancer treatment, so the decision was made to give it a miss as the risk is too much. Booking a last minute hotel is too expensive really.
So I did a little job on the MPS that has been outstanding for a little while and has caused a minor annoyance since I have been a steward of the car. The armrest compartment latch has broken. So I purchased a replacement off of eBay for the princely sum of £15.
It isn't perfect obviously but has a working latch. Gave it a quick clean to get someone elses sweaty arm off of it and off to work I went.
You have to remove the centre tunnel plastics to swap it over.
I seem to be getting quite adept at getting them out now
A couple of screws under the arm rest and it all comes apart easily. New one installed and then the usual reversal of removal to refit. Found a few trim clips that had fallen down, probably from various headunit installs in the past. So you never know, may have eliminated a rattle or 2. Still no sign of the threaded ball from the shortshifter , that has definitely disappeared into the ether.
There is meant to be a plastic tab with a hook that comes down from that top catch.
So another job off the list.
Just some general thoughts/musings on the current fleet and future plans.
RX7 - Get out and drive it some more. This weekend was going to pack on a good few hundred miles but thats been scuppered. Order steering wheel/boss.
MPS - The next stage apart from continuing maintenance is a set of 8-pot KSports. But this requires new wheels also, have my eye on Braid Fullrace as they can be made to spec. But thats £2.5k of parts so some saving needs to be done. Further ahead I do want to get the interior retrimmed, smatters of alcantara and going to orange stitch across the car. More saving needs to be done.
RX8 - Still have a real soft spot for this car. Does everything I want it to really well. Although soon I'll have to decide if it stays or if I want to start putting money into it refreshing bits and bobs.
Yaris - Still excellent. But unsure of its place in the long term. Not going to lie have started looking at early Audi R8 V8 manuals between £35/£40k. As releasing the Yaris and RX8 from service would effectively make it a no cost swap.
Found a solution to the RX7's floppy sunvisors. There are meant to be plastic barrels on the visor so it clips into place securely but being pretty old and Japanese these things have long since broken off.
Now there are replacements that are sold in the us for $12, but postage was $62 so I decided against that and decided to find an engineering workaround.
Cue the purchase of some 6mm ID, 2.5mm wall thickness silicone vacuum hose, 1m of it came to around £9.
So just measured the gap that it needed to fill, cut it to length and sliced it top to bottom to fit over the arm of the visor.
Before
After
Well blow me down, it worked a treat. Sunvisor clips in like it should and still swivvels nicely. The only thing I don't have to hand is some superglue to give a few dabs down the slice to properly secure it in place. But it doesn't feel like it will pop off.
MPS has its MOT tomorrow, first time with a sports cat fitted. So obviously nervous, but I probably shouldn't be. If the RX8 can pass with a 200cell I am pretty sure the MPS can
Now there are replacements that are sold in the us for $12, but postage was $62 so I decided against that and decided to find an engineering workaround.
Cue the purchase of some 6mm ID, 2.5mm wall thickness silicone vacuum hose, 1m of it came to around £9.
So just measured the gap that it needed to fill, cut it to length and sliced it top to bottom to fit over the arm of the visor.
Before
After
Well blow me down, it worked a treat. Sunvisor clips in like it should and still swivvels nicely. The only thing I don't have to hand is some superglue to give a few dabs down the slice to properly secure it in place. But it doesn't feel like it will pop off.
MPS has its MOT tomorrow, first time with a sports cat fitted. So obviously nervous, but I probably shouldn't be. If the RX8 can pass with a 200cell I am pretty sure the MPS can
Escy said:
It is lovely but the number plate plinth bothers me, it's like a wart on the nose from this angle. Are you happy with the new suspension?
Haha I know what you mean from this angle. Wierdly there is actually some function to it, as Mazda got another air induction route at the bottom of the plynth. Helps feed air into the airbox. Part of the improvements made on the facelift bumper.The suspension has been excellent. Firm, but very controlled and confidence inspiring. I was going to wind the dampers all the way down to max comfort on the trip to JDM Combe but that got scuppered due to COVID!
Got a job offer yesterday which would finally mean coming off shift work, back to a normal Monday-Fri working routine. Which I am hoping leads to way more fun car stuff!
MPS update today.
She is booked in to CJ Performance up near Mansfield in September for timing chain and assorted tensioners, oil pump, water pump, thermostat. Basically everything. Even though the pumps are proving to be really reliable, it is hard to look passed the fact all of them are now 13 years old and I'd rather have it all changed. Booked a little hotel stay the night before so I don't have to do the whole trip from Kent in a day.
Some annoying news is that while driving her this week, ran over something and it fired itself down the car and has taken a nice little chunk of paint, all the way down to the base coat/primer at the bottom of the rear door.
I've elected to get her booked in for a proper repair at the bodyshop that resprayed her as even a poor attempt at a repair would probably end up being a regret. Seeing as I know one look at that with a pressure washer and I am stripping paint away.
Now in order to prevent this from happening again, and seeing as I will probably have to run greater offset wheels to fit around a big brake kit in the future I elected to take inspiration from the carbon rock guards fitted to the GR Yaris.
So I ordered a set of gloss black rallyflapz. With the intention of cutting them down.
This is how the fronts arrived, and below is how they look after some measuring and chopping down.
I did also chop them down even further in order to make doubly sure nothing would catch the tyre from lock to lock and this was the end result as fitted.
Yes I know, rusty screw head. I have some black hammerite on order to rectify that
But here is how the look from around the car, I am actually quite happy with how they have turned out, no scraping the floor rally derived flaps here.
Took the car for a quick drive to make sure nothing fell off or rubbed from lock to lock, and so far still attached.
In addition to the Hammerite I have ordered some extra trim clips, these are probably good to have hanging around just in case some get broken, and some double sided body tape just in case I want to try and flush fit the flaps a bit more.
I am not planning on fitting the rear flaps, as I do not like the look of them.
She is booked in to CJ Performance up near Mansfield in September for timing chain and assorted tensioners, oil pump, water pump, thermostat. Basically everything. Even though the pumps are proving to be really reliable, it is hard to look passed the fact all of them are now 13 years old and I'd rather have it all changed. Booked a little hotel stay the night before so I don't have to do the whole trip from Kent in a day.
Some annoying news is that while driving her this week, ran over something and it fired itself down the car and has taken a nice little chunk of paint, all the way down to the base coat/primer at the bottom of the rear door.
I've elected to get her booked in for a proper repair at the bodyshop that resprayed her as even a poor attempt at a repair would probably end up being a regret. Seeing as I know one look at that with a pressure washer and I am stripping paint away.
Now in order to prevent this from happening again, and seeing as I will probably have to run greater offset wheels to fit around a big brake kit in the future I elected to take inspiration from the carbon rock guards fitted to the GR Yaris.
So I ordered a set of gloss black rallyflapz. With the intention of cutting them down.
This is how the fronts arrived, and below is how they look after some measuring and chopping down.
I did also chop them down even further in order to make doubly sure nothing would catch the tyre from lock to lock and this was the end result as fitted.
Yes I know, rusty screw head. I have some black hammerite on order to rectify that
But here is how the look from around the car, I am actually quite happy with how they have turned out, no scraping the floor rally derived flaps here.
Took the car for a quick drive to make sure nothing fell off or rubbed from lock to lock, and so far still attached.
In addition to the Hammerite I have ordered some extra trim clips, these are probably good to have hanging around just in case some get broken, and some double sided body tape just in case I want to try and flush fit the flaps a bit more.
I am not planning on fitting the rear flaps, as I do not like the look of them.
RX7
So spending more time behind the 7's wheel in the last month has revealed it does seem I have some bush knocking from the rear, not entirely surprising as I do think she has original bushes in. So I have sourched a full SuperPro bushing kit with OEM trailing arm bushes from a forum member on FDOC which saved me a few ££'s.
Which leaves the OEM pillowball bushings to source. I only need 6, but they aren't exactly cheap. Mazda UK have them in stock at £90+VAT, so roughly £108 each. Ordering from Japan is £72 each and the US only £70. With shipping + import taxes both work out nearly £100 cheaper than buying from Mazda UK. So over the winter I will probably get them ordered. So just buying the parts to replace all the suspension bushes will be roughly £1200.
I have some dust boots and snap rings on order from Mazda along with 2 rubber bushes for the boot as I want to elimante a few squeaks which I think is related to the boot itself. The 2 that are on the car are definitely hardened and crusty, with the evidence that the car has had paint, I don't think on the boot hatch itself the bodyshop replaced the clear tape that would sit on those rubber bushes with the boot closed.
But I did buy a little something for my shelf.
MPS
The MPS has recieved most of the love as I decided to get the timing chain replaced. Apparently many people choose to just get the timing chain replaced and leave all the other ancilliaries alone. But this doesn't sit right for me, now the car is 13 years old I had the following replaced as it is all accessible when doing the timing chain.
Timing chain & all guides.
Oil pump chain.
Oil pump
Water pump
Thermostat
Aux belt
I chose to travel up to Mansfield to see Charlie at CJ Performance who is the go-to man in the MPS world for this work. In addition to being really well priced he was a great guy to meet and have a chat too while inspecting my car.
The positives were he commented how clean and rust free the car was (being a Mazda that means the world) and on taking the rocker cover off, checking the cams had extremely low wear and no signs of yellowing which indicates poor oil circulation. This was excellent to hear and nothing horrific was found to be lurking. But there are one or 2 bits to plan for in the future.
Slightly leaking driveshaft seal.
Rear main gearbox seal possibly slightly leaking.
Charlie advised these weren't critical at all and recommended that they could be left until a clutch is needed. Which even though mine seems to be fine, i'll plan that as something to get done in the next year or so. While also having a chat about cleaning of the back of the valves and fitting refreshed injectors fitted.
It was definitely worth the over 400 mile round trip and I'd definitely use him again in the future.
One little extra job that I have carried out is that my gearknob engravings being silver was starting to annoy me. So I took a bit of time to get my arts and crafts hat on and painted them black. I managed to paint between the lines, just.
So spending more time behind the 7's wheel in the last month has revealed it does seem I have some bush knocking from the rear, not entirely surprising as I do think she has original bushes in. So I have sourched a full SuperPro bushing kit with OEM trailing arm bushes from a forum member on FDOC which saved me a few ££'s.
Which leaves the OEM pillowball bushings to source. I only need 6, but they aren't exactly cheap. Mazda UK have them in stock at £90+VAT, so roughly £108 each. Ordering from Japan is £72 each and the US only £70. With shipping + import taxes both work out nearly £100 cheaper than buying from Mazda UK. So over the winter I will probably get them ordered. So just buying the parts to replace all the suspension bushes will be roughly £1200.
I have some dust boots and snap rings on order from Mazda along with 2 rubber bushes for the boot as I want to elimante a few squeaks which I think is related to the boot itself. The 2 that are on the car are definitely hardened and crusty, with the evidence that the car has had paint, I don't think on the boot hatch itself the bodyshop replaced the clear tape that would sit on those rubber bushes with the boot closed.
But I did buy a little something for my shelf.
MPS
The MPS has recieved most of the love as I decided to get the timing chain replaced. Apparently many people choose to just get the timing chain replaced and leave all the other ancilliaries alone. But this doesn't sit right for me, now the car is 13 years old I had the following replaced as it is all accessible when doing the timing chain.
Timing chain & all guides.
Oil pump chain.
Oil pump
Water pump
Thermostat
Aux belt
I chose to travel up to Mansfield to see Charlie at CJ Performance who is the go-to man in the MPS world for this work. In addition to being really well priced he was a great guy to meet and have a chat too while inspecting my car.
The positives were he commented how clean and rust free the car was (being a Mazda that means the world
) and on taking the rocker cover off, checking the cams had extremely low wear and no signs of yellowing which indicates poor oil circulation. This was excellent to hear and nothing horrific was found to be lurking. But there are one or 2 bits to plan for in the future.Slightly leaking driveshaft seal.
Rear main gearbox seal possibly slightly leaking.
Charlie advised these weren't critical at all and recommended that they could be left until a clutch is needed. Which even though mine seems to be fine, i'll plan that as something to get done in the next year or so. While also having a chat about cleaning of the back of the valves and fitting refreshed injectors fitted.
It was definitely worth the over 400 mile round trip and I'd definitely use him again in the future.
One little extra job that I have carried out is that my gearknob engravings being silver was starting to annoy me. So I took a bit of time to get my arts and crafts hat on and painted them black. I managed to paint between the lines, just.
Edited by Jester86 on Thursday 8th September 16:38
A small update for today.
RX7
Passed its first MOT in my ownership today. With only covering about 1k miles this year. A pretty poor effort I must say, but having COVID put paid to one of my biggest plans this year, so with a few more mechanical jobs to do after the winter and a change in job, coming off shift work, which should allow me more time for car stuff. I will do better next year.
With some cylinder engined thing at the MOT centre. Ewww cylinders.
One of my scuttle blanks went AWOL at some point so a friend of a friend 3D printed some replacements as I really didn't fancy paying lots of money for OEM plastic versions. It didn't come out at all badly!
Decided to pop the new boot rubbers on as they are a quick swap and I had some time after the MOT.
FD01-62-681C is the part number incase other FD owners read this.
New next to crusty pretty solid 20+ year old rubber.
Just a photo for context of where they sit just behind the rear lights.
I did go to GoJapan where she got muchos attention. But for some reason I took 0 photos!
Still need to order pillowballs, and I am tempted to get the steering rack refurbished while she is away getting all the bushes done as at the alignment at IA Motorsport he said there was some play in the rack. So it could be wise to get that refreshed while away. Will speak to TPS about this next year.
RX7 will be heading to winter slumber in the next few weeks, SORN is incoming.
MPS
Had the door scuff done at the bodyshop. No idea how that happened. But now all sorted.
RX8
Just took me back to see the family, as she needed a good run so 250 miles later and hasn't put a foot wrong. Probably will be SORN for 2 months until January when MOT/Service is due. Saves 2 x £60ish! Still sounds amazing, and I do really love it.
Headlights are starting to yellow again so at some point in the future I will order some RX8 Spirit R headlights from Japan. Not cheap but I'd prefer to get some brand new and replace rather than chance a second hand pair.
Yaris
What to say about the Yaris, I think her time as part of the fleet is drawing to a close. As much as it truely is an excellent car it isn't tickling the part of my soul that would make me love it. I have softly advertised it on the owners group Facebook page and gr-yaris.co.uk
I've already spoken to a company about a restomod, assuming all goes well as soon as I lock something down. An equally exciting if not more bespoke to me car will be on the cards for next year.
RX7
Passed its first MOT in my ownership today. With only covering about 1k miles this year. A pretty poor effort I must say, but having COVID put paid to one of my biggest plans this year, so with a few more mechanical jobs to do after the winter and a change in job, coming off shift work, which should allow me more time for car stuff. I will do better next year.
With some cylinder engined thing at the MOT centre. Ewww cylinders.
One of my scuttle blanks went AWOL at some point so a friend of a friend 3D printed some replacements as I really didn't fancy paying lots of money for OEM plastic versions. It didn't come out at all badly!
Decided to pop the new boot rubbers on as they are a quick swap and I had some time after the MOT.
FD01-62-681C is the part number incase other FD owners read this.
New next to crusty pretty solid 20+ year old rubber.
Just a photo for context of where they sit just behind the rear lights.
I did go to GoJapan where she got muchos attention. But for some reason I took 0 photos!
Still need to order pillowballs, and I am tempted to get the steering rack refurbished while she is away getting all the bushes done as at the alignment at IA Motorsport he said there was some play in the rack. So it could be wise to get that refreshed while away. Will speak to TPS about this next year.
RX7 will be heading to winter slumber in the next few weeks, SORN is incoming.
MPS
Had the door scuff done at the bodyshop. No idea how that happened. But now all sorted.
RX8
Just took me back to see the family, as she needed a good run so 250 miles later and hasn't put a foot wrong. Probably will be SORN for 2 months until January when MOT/Service is due. Saves 2 x £60ish! Still sounds amazing, and I do really love it.
Headlights are starting to yellow again so at some point in the future I will order some RX8 Spirit R headlights from Japan. Not cheap but I'd prefer to get some brand new and replace rather than chance a second hand pair.
Yaris
What to say about the Yaris, I think her time as part of the fleet is drawing to a close. As much as it truely is an excellent car it isn't tickling the part of my soul that would make me love it. I have softly advertised it on the owners group Facebook page and gr-yaris.co.uk
I've already spoken to a company about a restomod, assuming all goes well as soon as I lock something down. An equally exciting if not more bespoke to me car will be on the cards for next year.
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