Shed money Clio 172
Discussion
I should have done both beam bushes before I said which one was the hard side.
The NS one was an utter PITA. While the bush was in better shape and access was better, there was far more corrosion. The main hassle was that the beam bush bolt was bent and the nut seized in place. So I brought out the saw again, cut partway through the bolt and then just broke it with a long spanner. It was a nice change to do this on purpose. Then I couldn't get the bolt out, so used an angle grinder to cut the head off the bolt and dropped the bush with what was left out of the hanger.
The shell was also far more jammed. I tried the same technique with the bush puller I had used on the other side; cutting though the shell, then pushing it out. But it wouldn't move, and I crushed the thrust bearings on the bush tool by trying to force it. Hammering it proved futile.
I did debate making a trip out to buy a blowtorch, but I didn't trust myself not to do a lot of damage. So I got out the biggest G clamp I could find, and used that to push the sleeve away from the arm. This technique, combined with a lot of hammering and pry bar action broke it free in the end.
After that, the bush sleeve and bush went in without too much drama. Lining up the bolt holes nearly reduced me to tears and left me questioning my choices of how to use my free time, but I managed to get it back together. While the arm was out I took the chance to give everything a clean, brush and get a coat of bilt hamber rust converter into the hard to access nooks and crannies:
And here it is. The last bush on the car that pre-dated my ownership. All the suspension and bushes are now no more than 6,000 miles and 3 years old.
With the bush in a vice and using a hammer and punch I still can't get the rest of the bolt out. Next time I'm paying someone else to do this.
The NS one was an utter PITA. While the bush was in better shape and access was better, there was far more corrosion. The main hassle was that the beam bush bolt was bent and the nut seized in place. So I brought out the saw again, cut partway through the bolt and then just broke it with a long spanner. It was a nice change to do this on purpose. Then I couldn't get the bolt out, so used an angle grinder to cut the head off the bolt and dropped the bush with what was left out of the hanger.
The shell was also far more jammed. I tried the same technique with the bush puller I had used on the other side; cutting though the shell, then pushing it out. But it wouldn't move, and I crushed the thrust bearings on the bush tool by trying to force it. Hammering it proved futile.
I did debate making a trip out to buy a blowtorch, but I didn't trust myself not to do a lot of damage. So I got out the biggest G clamp I could find, and used that to push the sleeve away from the arm. This technique, combined with a lot of hammering and pry bar action broke it free in the end.
After that, the bush sleeve and bush went in without too much drama. Lining up the bolt holes nearly reduced me to tears and left me questioning my choices of how to use my free time, but I managed to get it back together. While the arm was out I took the chance to give everything a clean, brush and get a coat of bilt hamber rust converter into the hard to access nooks and crannies:
And here it is. The last bush on the car that pre-dated my ownership. All the suspension and bushes are now no more than 6,000 miles and 3 years old.
With the bush in a vice and using a hammer and punch I still can't get the rest of the bolt out. Next time I'm paying someone else to do this.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Monday 13th March 11:17
Just been for a little drive across town. It feels fantastic. It doesn't glide over bumps, but it's a lot more controlled. Various rattles that i didn't realise were coming from the bushes are gone and it's generally feeling tighter and "newer". Makes all the sweat and swearing worthwhile.
Spinakerr said:
Great stuff. That looks like a proper pig of a job, with corrosion fighting every step.
Nice work persevering and getting a better ride out of it. Rust, sweat and tears.
It was the classic combination of a job I've never done before, rust, terrible access, done on the driveway with a deadline to collect a child. At least it wasn't raining. And I don't think I broke anything important...Nice work persevering and getting a better ride out of it. Rust, sweat and tears.
320touring said:
Top work!
Looking at the pictures, I think that may be something that gets farmed out to the tame Clio fondler for the 182 and 172...
I would 100% recommend getting a professional to do this! And to help them out the bolts through the bushes can be replaced with M10 x 100 high tensile zinc plated hardware. The slightly shorter bolts makes it much easier to re-assemble. Looking at the pictures, I think that may be something that gets farmed out to the tame Clio fondler for the 182 and 172...
As is traditional in springtime, I gave the clio a wash and polished the headlights.
This time I've got a plan to stop them yellowing, a 3m clear coat kit that I saw Accelebrate use on his MX5.
So instead of going over the lights with a wood pad, i used a 3000 grit pad that came in the kit.
This is then followed up with a wipe with some special chemical in it.
A word of warning for anyone that uses this kit. These wipes dry fast, so if anything goes wrong, let it dry then go back with the 3000 grit. Don't go back with the wipes or it will go streaky.
Like this:
After that earning experience the lights look like they're well protected. If you get up close you can see some lines left by the wipes, but you need to really look hard.
It's a great kit. I've ordered another to do my legacy with.
Next up will be MOT time. Here's hoping it's less expensive than last year...
This time I've got a plan to stop them yellowing, a 3m clear coat kit that I saw Accelebrate use on his MX5.
So instead of going over the lights with a wood pad, i used a 3000 grit pad that came in the kit.
This is then followed up with a wipe with some special chemical in it.
A word of warning for anyone that uses this kit. These wipes dry fast, so if anything goes wrong, let it dry then go back with the 3000 grit. Don't go back with the wipes or it will go streaky.
Like this:
After that earning experience the lights look like they're well protected. If you get up close you can see some lines left by the wipes, but you need to really look hard.
It's a great kit. I've ordered another to do my legacy with.
Next up will be MOT time. Here's hoping it's less expensive than last year...
darkyoung1000 said:
I’m sorry, I know I shouldn’t chuckle at that, but while I’m sorry to hear your hands could be better, the delivery made me laugh.
A good couple of updates, looks like the other bush was a total pain, but absolutely worth it for the improvement in handling. Here’s to warmer days and not hatch enjoyment!
It's like picking PVA glue off, but less pleasant. A good couple of updates, looks like the other bush was a total pain, but absolutely worth it for the improvement in handling. Here’s to warmer days and not hatch enjoyment!
Absolutely to the hot hatch fun. The Clio is currently overnighting at the MOT test station while they have a play with the handbrake. Once that's sorted I'll be going over it to get ready for some track time...
So, that was a MOT test to forget.
The issue with the handbrake was that it was below 30% on the drives side. There was also fluid oozing out from the handbrake mechanism on the caliper. You can see here that it's over the inside of the wheel (this is after it's been investigated by two garages).
This caliper was changed last MOT. So I contacted the garage that fitted it to ask if they would have a look. They did, and their response was "It's 2 days out of warranty, we'll quote you for a new one". I wasn't happy about this, so took the car back and went to fit a new caliper myself with a 5 year warranty.
Then I broke the hardline going ino the caliper. Naively, I'd assumed that, as it had been apart about 2000 miles and 12 months ago, it would be ok to do at home.
So I clamped the flexible part of the line, and ordered a new hardline. This took a while to arrive. I also contacted a very good mobile mechanic as I was running low on patience. This proved to be a good descision.
The clamp wasn't sufficient, so the brake fluid was slowly dripping out, which meant the brake lines were full of air.
Thankfully, due to a lot of skill, patience and perseverance Jody (mobile mechanic) managed to bleed the system.
Which meant I could go back and get an MOT. Hooray!
More stuff was picked up. One of the front top mounts is a bit worn, and as I've been driving it about there is a knocking rattle from the back. The engine also feels "flat".
So I've booked a trackday on 14th June to give myself a deadline.
The job list is.
1. New front top mounts.
2. Sort out rattle/knock from the back.
3. Engine/gearbox oil, filters and check the plugs.
4. High level brake light doesn't work
The issue with the handbrake was that it was below 30% on the drives side. There was also fluid oozing out from the handbrake mechanism on the caliper. You can see here that it's over the inside of the wheel (this is after it's been investigated by two garages).
This caliper was changed last MOT. So I contacted the garage that fitted it to ask if they would have a look. They did, and their response was "It's 2 days out of warranty, we'll quote you for a new one". I wasn't happy about this, so took the car back and went to fit a new caliper myself with a 5 year warranty.
Then I broke the hardline going ino the caliper. Naively, I'd assumed that, as it had been apart about 2000 miles and 12 months ago, it would be ok to do at home.
So I clamped the flexible part of the line, and ordered a new hardline. This took a while to arrive. I also contacted a very good mobile mechanic as I was running low on patience. This proved to be a good descision.
The clamp wasn't sufficient, so the brake fluid was slowly dripping out, which meant the brake lines were full of air.
Thankfully, due to a lot of skill, patience and perseverance Jody (mobile mechanic) managed to bleed the system.
Which meant I could go back and get an MOT. Hooray!
More stuff was picked up. One of the front top mounts is a bit worn, and as I've been driving it about there is a knocking rattle from the back. The engine also feels "flat".
So I've booked a trackday on 14th June to give myself a deadline.
The job list is.
1. New front top mounts.
2. Sort out rattle/knock from the back.
3. Engine/gearbox oil, filters and check the plugs.
4. High level brake light doesn't work
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Wednesday 31st May 14:59
darkyoung1000 said:
Glad to see you got an MOT in the end, although it sounds like getting there was a pain in the backside. Poor service from the garage, and I wonder how well they'd greased everything before putting it back together after last time...
Are the hard lines of a standard diameter? If so, a flaring tool and a roll of kunifer might be a plan for the future.
Good deadline to be working towards, I look forward to the updates! I need to get on track again this year (probably on a bike though).
The hardline is a standard part from Renault, it's solid from the junction on the rear axle, then there is a flexible section just before the caliper before terminating as a hardline again. I was lucky in that another clio owner nearby had one but Renault parts direct have them on the shelf. Various place offer braided hose replacements too. Are the hard lines of a standard diameter? If so, a flaring tool and a roll of kunifer might be a plan for the future.
Good deadline to be working towards, I look forward to the updates! I need to get on track again this year (probably on a bike though).
Spinakerr said:
Great to hear the MOT was finally ticked off, sorry to hear you had to get ticked off in the process! Some garages are just not keen on repeat customer, or standing by their work, it seems.
Have fun at the track.
It's a shame, they just to be really good, for a chain. But they had a change of management, all the old team left and now it feels like any generic fast turnover tyre/MOT/alignment place. Have fun at the track.
First thing fixed and root cause identified. The a rattle from the rear.
When I fitted the rear beam bushes I was very pleased with my cunning idea to use a slightly shorter M10 bolt. I was so pleased with my good idea I didn't question why the M10 i had in the shed needed a 14mm spanner.
It was because it was a 3/8" bolt left over from another project. Therefore about 0.4 mm too thin.
So I've been out and replaced it with the right size. Changing the bolts on the rear beam is a pain, even when you've done it before. And having to do it just because you're an idiot who can't label things isn't a nice way to spend a bank holiday afternoon.
When I fitted the rear beam bushes I was very pleased with my cunning idea to use a slightly shorter M10 bolt. I was so pleased with my good idea I didn't question why the M10 i had in the shed needed a 14mm spanner.
It was because it was a 3/8" bolt left over from another project. Therefore about 0.4 mm too thin.
So I've been out and replaced it with the right size. Changing the bolts on the rear beam is a pain, even when you've done it before. And having to do it just because you're an idiot who can't label things isn't a nice way to spend a bank holiday afternoon.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Monday 29th May 16:29
Another thing off the to do list.
Fresh engine oil and filter:
And fresh gearbox oil.
I chose motul oil as the elf was out of stock and motul listed this as suitable for the JC129 gearboxes.
Both oils looked great coming out, clean, clear and with no bits it. These are the 9th engine oil change since I've owned it, and the 4th gearbox oil change.
Last gearbox change i made a right mess. This time i had a better solution than the pump, a funnel with a long hose:
Bad news is that the power steering pump switch looks like its leaking again.
More seriously, having bought some "new design" top mounts i couldn't get the old mounts off of the struts, and I've mangled the half nut in the process. So that will take some thinking to put right. I also may need to apologise to the neighbourhood for all the swearing...
I wish these were on the car.
But someone sent a message to cheer me up:
Fresh engine oil and filter:
And fresh gearbox oil.
I chose motul oil as the elf was out of stock and motul listed this as suitable for the JC129 gearboxes.
Both oils looked great coming out, clean, clear and with no bits it. These are the 9th engine oil change since I've owned it, and the 4th gearbox oil change.
Last gearbox change i made a right mess. This time i had a better solution than the pump, a funnel with a long hose:
Bad news is that the power steering pump switch looks like its leaking again.
More seriously, having bought some "new design" top mounts i couldn't get the old mounts off of the struts, and I've mangled the half nut in the process. So that will take some thinking to put right. I also may need to apologise to the neighbourhood for all the swearing...
I wish these were on the car.
But someone sent a message to cheer me up:
darkyoung1000 said:
That suspension top mount sounds like a pain in the backside. I see that the struts are out from your photo, is it now refusing to release the top mount from the shock as there’s nothing for it to brace against? Have you got a friendly local garage you could run them down to so that they could assist with the removal if it came to it?
Good news on the engine, gearbox and sky painting at least….
They're back on for now. Good news on the engine, gearbox and sky painting at least….
The issuse is that the 17mm nut that holds it all together is a. Only half width and b. Made out of cheese. Probably brie.
They're properly stuck. There is a torx socket in the end of the strut to stop the shock from rotating, but that also means you can't get an impact on it. Having rounded the nut, i hammered a 16mm round spanner on, which also rounded. So when I've got more time the plan is to wind the adjusters all the way down, hacksaw off the rubber doughnut and get a nut splitter on what is left. Or get a blowtorch to heat it.
An import lesson in using copper grease when assembling stuff.
Kaveney said:
Cambs_Stuart said:
Oh yes! First one for six months. Will you be there too?
No have not boked anything yet but looking at the end of the summer i think and it is 19 Months from my last unsuccessful track day at Goodwood so cant wait to get back .
Well, i completed the trackday. I'd swear this clio runs better flat out on track than it does running around town. It may be the helmet blocks all the rattles and clonks.
I did have a few jobs to do before heading off. Top up all the fluids, clean the air filter, and replace the power steering switch as it was leaking again. £8 from Amazon and I've got another cheap replacement that i suspect won't last long.
I also gave the clio a quick wash, the dry weather and a lot of building work had left it a dusty brown. I gave this stuff a go.
It appears to be magic. Incredibly quick to apply and gives a brilliant finish. Harder work to buff off of glass, and definitely don't apply in blazing sunshine.
The track day was a mixed bag. It was really busy, started late, and had a lot of red flags, some of which lead to long delays; a car had to be recovered from deep gravel at clearways with a broken ball joint, another dropped fluid all down the hill to graham hill bend.
This meant it was always fairly busy on track, and meant there wasn't much time when I wasn't looking over my shoulder waiting for GT3s, caterams and M3s to come past.
But i did get a few clear laps to enjoy myself and eventually found a couple of other cars running at a similar pace to me. I also met a few other owners of silver 172s. Both caged, cammed, stripped, and equipped with BC coilovers (and with much better drivers), this is as close as i got all evening!
The advantage of being in a garage with better drivers is just picking up little tips that make a big difference. Changing up to 4th on the cooper straight and going flat out through Surtees was scary first time, but really helped. Turning in later to paddock and clearways, plus changing up earlier gave a big boost to my exit speed and felt much smoother.
I did have a few jobs to do before heading off. Top up all the fluids, clean the air filter, and replace the power steering switch as it was leaking again. £8 from Amazon and I've got another cheap replacement that i suspect won't last long.
I also gave the clio a quick wash, the dry weather and a lot of building work had left it a dusty brown. I gave this stuff a go.
It appears to be magic. Incredibly quick to apply and gives a brilliant finish. Harder work to buff off of glass, and definitely don't apply in blazing sunshine.
The track day was a mixed bag. It was really busy, started late, and had a lot of red flags, some of which lead to long delays; a car had to be recovered from deep gravel at clearways with a broken ball joint, another dropped fluid all down the hill to graham hill bend.
This meant it was always fairly busy on track, and meant there wasn't much time when I wasn't looking over my shoulder waiting for GT3s, caterams and M3s to come past.
But i did get a few clear laps to enjoy myself and eventually found a couple of other cars running at a similar pace to me. I also met a few other owners of silver 172s. Both caged, cammed, stripped, and equipped with BC coilovers (and with much better drivers), this is as close as i got all evening!
The advantage of being in a garage with better drivers is just picking up little tips that make a big difference. Changing up to 4th on the cooper straight and going flat out through Surtees was scary first time, but really helped. Turning in later to paddock and clearways, plus changing up earlier gave a big boost to my exit speed and felt much smoother.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Thursday 15th June 13:58
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff