£600 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE, 2.5 v6
Discussion
So, MOT tomorrow.
It should fail on the aforementioned rusty sill, and was of the view if that was all it failed on (we will see ...) I'd try and get a patch welded on and run it for another year. It isn't worth spending proper money getting the sills done as the rear wheel arch and door should be done too, which would not be cheap.
However, in my pre-MOT checks noticed it was losing coolant. On investigation it seems the thermostat is leaking, plus some weeping from other pipes:
It may be coming to the end of the road ...
It should fail on the aforementioned rusty sill, and was of the view if that was all it failed on (we will see ...) I'd try and get a patch welded on and run it for another year. It isn't worth spending proper money getting the sills done as the rear wheel arch and door should be done too, which would not be cheap.
However, in my pre-MOT checks noticed it was losing coolant. On investigation it seems the thermostat is leaking, plus some weeping from other pipes:
It may be coming to the end of the road ...
Just dropped it off. Of course a bloody bulb warning popped up on the way there. The same tail light that was giving me issues last week, and a new bulb hasn't sorted it, so must be an issue with the connections or wiring. It also went from max to min coolant overnight, topped up and was back to min before i got to the garage which is five minutes away, so leak is serious.
So, it did fail - welding and front ball joint. Let's see how much the welding would be, if I can even find someone to do it - if it was a few hundred quid, I am sure I could replace the stat and suspension arm myself for a few hundred quid.
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Front Outer Integral body structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced sill (6.1.1 (c) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Rear Anti-roll bar corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Front Suspension arm ball joint excessively worn (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Offside Front Outer Integral body structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced sill (6.1.1 (c) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Rear Anti-roll bar corroded but not seriously weakened (5.3.3 (b) (i))
stickleback123 said:
PrinceRupert said:
There is, though a bit of Googling suggests the front suspension arm can be a bit of a pain ...
Suspension arms on all old cars have the potential to turn into a day long struggle, I don't think it'll be Rover 75 specific ballache they're talking about, from what I remember they're totally conventional.I've discovered that finding someone to do welding to a "just get it through the MOT" standard is getting harder by the year as the old boys retire, I suppose nothing really rusts until it's 15+ years old now when you're inclined to just bin the car, so it's a dying skill outside of proper restorations.
Decky_Q said:
Surely man maths says that even changing car you will get a higher sale price if you get the work done and pass MOT, by which time man maths will dictate you keep it as you know its issues and what else can you buy for £1k these days?
Indeed, though the problem is the cosmetics (see earlier in the thread) are such that it would probably struggle to make much more than £500 when fixed, though if I can replace the thermostat and lower arm myself for less than 200 quid and get the welding done for a few hundred quid it is probably worth fixing. Man maths could also say scrap it and use it as an excuse to buy a new car ...
The garage just rang me to say they're struggling to find anyone to do the welding, but have one last guy to try and will let me know ...
300 quid to get suspension arm fitted for MOT. Now need to do thermostat.
Tried to do keyhole method by removing throttle body, air box and battery but there was no hope of undoing the relevant bolt. Seems someone replaced it before and used an allen key headed bolt rather than a normal bolt and just couldnt get a tool into it. So manifold off it is.
This is the most involved mechanics job ive probably ever done so lets see how it goes. Got it mostly apart though still need to work out how to get to the three rear bolts on the front exhaust manifold. There are a lots of bits off the car and not convinced ill get them all back on.....
Will need to order the various gaskets and o rings.
Did the three rear spark plugs whilst im in there - they are almost impossible to do with the manifold on and are overdue a change
Tried to do keyhole method by removing throttle body, air box and battery but there was no hope of undoing the relevant bolt. Seems someone replaced it before and used an allen key headed bolt rather than a normal bolt and just couldnt get a tool into it. So manifold off it is.
This is the most involved mechanics job ive probably ever done so lets see how it goes. Got it mostly apart though still need to work out how to get to the three rear bolts on the front exhaust manifold. There are a lots of bits off the car and not convinced ill get them all back on.....
Will need to order the various gaskets and o rings.
Did the three rear spark plugs whilst im in there - they are almost impossible to do with the manifold on and are overdue a change
It is apart. It isn't obvious from looking at the old thermostat housing where it is leaking from. Let's hope it is the thermostat...
This little metal pipe had some pink goo around it and doesn't look healthy. Any ideas for a fix?
Currently cursing as the new rigid pipe that sits beside thermostat won't bloody fit. The rubber sealing ring is too bulbous and no amount of force will get it in. Any ideas? Otherwise the old one will be going back on....
This little metal pipe had some pink goo around it and doesn't look healthy. Any ideas for a fix?
Currently cursing as the new rigid pipe that sits beside thermostat won't bloody fit. The rubber sealing ring is too bulbous and no amount of force will get it in. Any ideas? Otherwise the old one will be going back on....
Spinakerr said:
Silicon spray should help, or perhaps leave it in the summer sun for 20 minutes to get a but more pliability.
That rigid nozzle looks a bit scabby - and holes at the base that would explain the OAT fluff surrounding it?
Yup though I don't think that rigid nozzle was the primary leak, too much fluid and given where it is I would have seen it. I am not sure how to fix it though...That rigid nozzle looks a bit scabby - and holes at the base that would explain the OAT fluff surrounding it?
Thank you. Fortunately it is in a location which would allow it to get fixed even when everything is back together.
Managed to get the rigid pipe in, but had to take the second inlet manifold off which I had been trying to avoid.
Need to go order another manifold gasket before I can attempt to put the rest back together ...
Managed to get the rigid pipe in, but had to take the second inlet manifold off which I had been trying to avoid.
Need to go order another manifold gasket before I can attempt to put the rest back together ...
So it is all going back together. Two problems:
I have snapped the bloody crankcase breather, 40 quid for a new one. I also can't remember where it goes and how it is routed. Anyone know where I can get an image of the route? Google is not helping.
I have a spare plug that I can't find a home for next to the throttle body. Any ideas?
I have snapped the bloody crankcase breather, 40 quid for a new one. I also can't remember where it goes and how it is routed. Anyone know where I can get an image of the route? Google is not helping.
I have a spare plug that I can't find a home for next to the throttle body. Any ideas?
itcaptainslow said:
I’m fairly sure that plugs into the rear bank camshaft cover, but I’d need to check mine first! Will do that a bit later this evening when I have a chance and report back.
You’re welcome to PM me and I can FaceTime you my engine with the top cover off, if it helps.
Thanks for the offer. I found it. Hidden by the inlet manifold. Taking the bolts off the inlet manifold let me lift it enough to get it in with a lot of swearing, but route was wrong and it snapped trying to take it out. So inlet manifold off again it is. Fml.You’re welcome to PM me and I can FaceTime you my engine with the top cover off, if it helps.
40 bloody quid for three plastic tubes delivered...
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/kv6-9mm-small-bre...
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/kv6-9mm-small-bre...
f
k me the 40 quid pipe I ordered was only half of it, its another 40 quid for the other half:
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LLH102820
k me the 40 quid pipe I ordered was only half of it, its another 40 quid for the other half: https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-LLH102820
SirGriffin said:
No, not this.
These pipes always go hard and brittle due to the heat build up.
Simply snap the ends off each pipe (the part that pushes into the manifolds) making sure you have about 3/4 inches of length.
Then just get some rubber hose (I used to go to Halfords where they sold it in whatever length you wanted) which costs only a few pounds, cut the rubber hose to the correct lengths, and then insert the plastic ends from the original pipework into each end of the new rubber hose, then fit to the car. Job jobbed!
I did that on all the 75's I had, worked perfectly. You can ensure no air leaks by simply using small jubilee clips at the ends of the rubber hose where the plastic "ends" are pushed in.
I probably haven't explained that very well, but if you think about it you will work it out!
It saved me a fortune in breather pipes, because they required replacement on all 5 cars I had!
Wish I had read this before today! I ordered the pipe and it arrived yesterday. I snapped another bloody breather hose putting it all back together, the one that runs across the top of the engine. However it snapped cleanly in the middle so should be able to piece it back together with a length of rubber hose and two jubilee clips. These pipes always go hard and brittle due to the heat build up.
Simply snap the ends off each pipe (the part that pushes into the manifolds) making sure you have about 3/4 inches of length.
Then just get some rubber hose (I used to go to Halfords where they sold it in whatever length you wanted) which costs only a few pounds, cut the rubber hose to the correct lengths, and then insert the plastic ends from the original pipework into each end of the new rubber hose, then fit to the car. Job jobbed!
I did that on all the 75's I had, worked perfectly. You can ensure no air leaks by simply using small jubilee clips at the ends of the rubber hose where the plastic "ends" are pushed in.
I probably haven't explained that very well, but if you think about it you will work it out!
It saved me a fortune in breather pipes, because they required replacement on all 5 cars I had!
Edited by SirGriffin on Sunday 3rd July 12:04
Everything is now back together and it is running well. However, unfortunately, two of the front three fuel injectors are leaking. The one rear one I can see is not, but can't see the other two ...
I did replace the three back o-rings and not the front three (for some reason only remembered to order three), so hopefully it is just a case of fitting three replacement o-rings. They aren't expensive (8 quid delivered) and should hopefully be able to do it (although a bit fiddly) without taking the inlet manifold back off (just coils out and fuel rail off).
Also need to bleed the coolant but the torx screw holding the expansion tank to the car is so tight it snapped my torx bit before giving up. got some penetrating oil on it to see if that loosens it off.
JeremyH5 said:
I admire your tenacity. This reminds me why I always take my cars to “the man”. 
Well at this juncture it is either fix it or scrap it 
If the back fuel injectors are leaking, or the thermostat, which involves dismantling the engine again, it probably will be the latter ...Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff