Peugeot 205 XR

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Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Friday 25th June 2021
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TEKNOPUG said:
What was done to get the carb running right?


I believe removed and cleaned the idle jets and adjusted idle speed.

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Monday 28th June 2021
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So...the carb still ain't running right. Took it out for its first proper journey, and it runs okay when cold now but once up to temperature it will still stall with choke in. It also occasionally stalls when in neutral for some reason. It was fun when it happened half way round a busy roundabout ...

Think it is just the carb is goosed and needs rebuilt? Was also wondering if it could be ignition related. I've replaced plugs, leads, dizzy cap, rotor arm but haven't checked timing so it could be that? I have a timing gun in my shed but don't actually know what I'm doing biglaugh

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Monday 28th June 2021
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C70R said:
Fair play to you for persevering - I'd have given up long ago. Without meaning to sound rude, I think we are of a similar level of mechanical patience/talent.

I learned many years ago that I shouldn't work on my own cars - not from the perspective of safety, but quality. I am incapable of dedicating the correct amount of time and patience, and I inevitably do a substandard job.

I stopped frustrating myself with my work (and wasting money on paying people to rectify my mistakes), and just conceded to find really good specialists to work on my car.
biglaugh

I had no skill, I now have not very much skill but more skill than when I started, the only purpose of this car is to tinker with it, otherwise might as well sell it rather than paying someone to sort it (I realise I just paid someone to do the hub and wheel bearing after I fked it up, but only because I had just taken the suspension apart and couldn't bear to do it again biglaugh but plus had no press for the bearing ...). Practice makes perfect ... (for example, I have learned through my mistakes to use power tools to take things off and not put them on biglaugh) Plus much of my earlier issues were from having the wrong bloody parts (thermostat gasket, alternator belt, radiator etc. etc. etc.)

Carb rebuild seems next on my to do, its something I'm willing to try, at least I can do it sitting down rather than on my back underneath a car biglaugh

I think it might be air leak, as the garage cleaned the jets which improved the issues but obviously didn't fix it.


Edited by Cascade360 on Monday 28th June 18:46

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Monday 28th June 2021
quotequote all
TEKNOPUG said:
If you can get a carb rebuild kit it's pretty straightforward to do. Take everything apart, clean, replace gaskets, put it back together.

You either don't have enough fuel without the choke, so blocked jets in the carb, that need to be cleaned. Or you have an air leak which only having the choke open supplies enough fuel. So either leaking gaskets or hoses.

...or a stuck float.
Can't find a rebuild kit, ugh. There seems to be a few carb specialists out there, might need to give one a ring.

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Monday 28th June 2021
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xstian said:
You can test for air leaks by spraying some easy start around the carb manifold. If the revs increases when you spray, you knows its sucking in air where it shouldn't.

I doubt you will be able to buy a rebuild kit as such, you might even find it difficult to get any parts for it. There isn't really that much in a carb that wears out that can be replaced easily. If any of the moving parts wear, it's probably going to be uneconomical to repair.

Saying all that, a carb can do a lot of miles with out any problems and I think you have to be pretty unlucky to get a completely clapped out carb. It might just need another clean, have you got a fuel filter fitted. It's an easy job really, you just need to make sure you take note of a couple of the screw settings and don't force anything.
Thanks. It seems carb rebuild kits are available for some carbs (see https://classiccarbs.co.uk/products/solex-carbs-pa... but can't see anything for my carb which is marked Solex 72273 (though this might not be the model number - http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205F/1/14A21A.HTM - this suggests it is a SOLEX 34 PBISA 17/481).

Good tip on the easy start, will give it a go. Will also change the fuel filter.

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Tuesday 29th June 2021
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TEKNOPUG said:
Take it apart. Clean everything. Check for anything leaking/blown gaskets. Put it back together. Take it from there.
Might be risky if i can't find a gasket kit first?

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Saturday 3rd July 2021
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From a bit of investigation with the help of another forum it has been determined that the carb is a solex 34 pbisa 17 and the idle circuit is the problem. Took out idle jet cleaned it and if i loosen it off a bit i can get it running okay with choke in. So needs a rebuild. Pondering between rebuilding current carb and buying a good xs carb and manifold which will apparently give more power and better driving characteristics to boot.

In the meantime decided to bleed the brakes as pedal feel is soft and fluid looks manky. Used my easibleed which was remarkably easy. Except disaster struck. First bleed nipple was rounded off and wouldnt turn. Second bleed nipple turned and bled okay. Third bleed nipplr was rounded off and wouldnt turn. Fourth bleed nipple........snapped. fml. Guess its new front caliper time.

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Monday 12th July 2021
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So given this is not likely to be a long termer, ordered a service kit for the existing carb and will try to rebuild it. Also trying to buy a second hand caliper rather than faffing about trying to drill out. Could get a brand new one for only £45. Query - can you replace a caliper without draining all fluid out of the brake system?

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Wednesday 14th July 2021
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I decided to swap the caliper over this evening ... I'm starting to get pissed off at the number of bolts I snap. biglaugh Any tips on not snapping bolts? I did soak this one in plenty of plus gas and tried a bit of heat but was too close to the rubber parts of the caliper to get much heat on it.

|https://thumbsnap.com/cTqpToM9[/url]

Is fixing this as straight forward as swapping out the flexi hose? I can get a new one for a tenner. Really need to make sure I don't snap it ...

[url]

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Wednesday 14th July 2021
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Thanks. I guess I can't use lots of heat on the connection between flexi and hard line as brake fluid is flammable?

I have drilled out and helicoiled quite a few bolts now but didn't fancy trying it on the caliper with the consequences of it failing in use ...

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Wednesday 14th July 2021
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mercedeslimos said:
Nice hose clamp, where did you pick that up? I usually use a welding clamp!
A mere £8.53 on Amazon

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CSZZ1JC/ref...

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Sunday 18th July 2021
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Caliper on. Bloody hell i got brake fluid everywhere. At one point twirling the flexi onto the hardline brake fluid was spinning round like a Catherine Wheel.

I can't seem to get both ends tight and the hose not kinked. Is there a trick to this?

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Sunday 18th July 2021
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It appears to be the right part number and is the one that comes up on ECP if i put my part number in.

However this one looks like the one that came off...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184613301275

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Sunday 18th July 2021
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CarlosV8 said:
Looks like a GTI hose as that rubber bit clips onto the strut (it's routed round the front, at least on my GTi). Might be a slightly different length so make sure it doesn't get snagged on anything!

Regarding the kinking can you take the caliper off the hub to allow it to unkink?
I couldn't get it to be unkinked think it is a bit long plus it wasn't fully seated in the caliper. Ordered the replacement. Annoying.

Also tried to install the replacement right indicator today. Shock horror the ten quid replacement wasn't a good fit. Managed to crack it during installation. Guess ill order another...

Edited by Cascade360 on Sunday 18th July 17:34

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Sunday 18th July 2021
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Carb off in advance of rebuild

Gasket to inlet manifold looks pretty shot

Taking bets the car never runs again🤣










Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Sunday 18th July 2021
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Let's get it running before dropping big money on performance mods biglaugh

Little things today...using Getechniq C4 Trim Restorer. Very expensive at 20 quid for a tiny bottle but it is meant to be amazing.


Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Monday 19th July 2021
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aaron_2000 said:
How did you find it? I'm trying to tidy my GTI trim up and find a heat gun only works on the arches. I don't wanna paint the trim as I don't wanna risk removing the red inserts
It was super easy to use (clean, apply, remove excess with clean cloth) and made a marked, immediate difference. Of course, any cheap trim spray will do that, the true test is whether it will still be dark in a couple of weeks time ... will let you know.

On the 205 XS carb/manifold, this has been mentioned a few times and there was a second hand one for sale for £150, but I figured it is better to get it running first before spending money on upgrades. I have barely driven it ten miles in the seven months I've had it!

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Monday 19th July 2021
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This is a pic of the front bumper which i treated yesterday and the back bumper which i didnt after the product has had time to dry overnight.

Not sure im that impressed...

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Thursday 22nd July 2021
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So the carb is apart!







Some nice residue:



Soaked it in Gunk Ultra for an hour or so and came out a lot cleaner. Did seem to leave crystallised deposits overnight so cleaned again with carb cleaner and WD40 this morning.



The gaskets all seemed in good nick other than the carb to inlet manifold one which disintegrated.

I am not entirely sure if the gasket kit I have got is correct. The gaskets are all the right shape but doesn't have holes in all the same places. Is this possibly because it is a gasket set with a dual use for two similar carbs (32 PBISA 16 and 34 PBISA 17)? Anyone have any idea what carb it is? It is stamped SOLEX 77273 and has a few other numbers on it but no stamp saying 32 PBISA 16 etc. Forums / Haynes suggest it is the 34 PBISA 17.

Query - do I need to / should I replace jets etc or is a good clean sufficient?

Not entirely convinced I will get it all back together but will give it a go ...

Cascade360

Original Poster:

11,575 posts

87 months

Thursday 22nd July 2021
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TEKNOPUG said:
I probably would have cleaned and refitted as I went along....

When I rebuilt a carb for a 1.6 205, I used paper gaskets that I could cut to shape. I'd clean and reassemble and replace the inlet gasket, then see how it runs. You shouldn't have to replace any components. It looks like a combination of dirty blocked parts and leaky gaskets causing lack of fuel/too much air.
That might have been sensible biglaugh

I have a lot of small parts ... I did take quite a lot of photos whilst disassembling so hopefully can get it back together ...