Volkswagen Corrado G60
Discussion
@Tommie38 - I'd agree with you, I'm just aware that it is a criticism that could be levelled at it. Certainly, in my experience, I love the handling, the experience and the feel of it, however, at Snetterton in the wet, it certainly behaved in a predictable but flawed fashion Loved it though! You were right about EVO Magazine btw, although they were talking about the VR6 in that instance...
@griffin dai - this seems to follow on nicely... Performance wise, well, its not as quick in a straight line and the noise isn't as good, but in terms of A & B road performance in the real world, I think that the G60 holds its own very well. In standard form it's 30 hp down on the VR6, but about 100kg lighter (I think), although the gearbox means that it loses out on the 0-60 time as it only hits 58 in second.... Number top trumps aside - having had both on track, I thought the G60 felt less nose heavy, and if I wanted to, releasing that extra 30hp through a smaller pulley and a re-chip would be easy enough. However, it's never going to be as swift as my 400cc bike (let alone my other half's 1100...) so I've not bothered.
@bolidemichael indeed! I still have more fun round track on my 400 than I did on my 1000! Just hilarious in the way it felt, cornered, and went around the outside of larger bikes!
Anyway, back to the G60 - managed to get a little bit of work done over the weekend - gave it a wash (nothing special there), but also tried to look at some of the issues I've been having...
The wipers on the Corrado are notoriously poor - a combination of the slant of the windscreen and the weaker springs on the wiper arms, means that clearing the windscreen of water is not their forte. A common modification used to be fitting the arms from the Lupo GTI, however, that's now stupidly expensive, so I chose the other modification... Pull the wiper arms off and break out the 'I can't believe it's not a Dremmel' and file down the stops...
In theory, this will allow the existing spring to pull the wiper harder onto the screen, meaning it might actually prove effective above 60mph....
I also started looking for the electrical gremlins that are causing the clock needles to twitch at random. Starting with the battery negative terminal, I cleaned the contacts on all earths using emery paper and contact cleaner. The one behind the battery, the one on the passenger bulkhead that connects to the rocker cover, the one on the water pump, and crucially a large multi earth point on the inside of the drivers wing which was corroded....
This was a swine to get at, but once I realised it would come out easily, cleaning it became simple! One 10mm nut later....
Crusty!
Having done all of this yesterday, I took it out this evening (when it was wet) to see if there was any change....
Well, the wipers are better. Not GOOD ,but better. They now clear the screen above 60mph, and after that, I can use Rainex, so not all bad. I might file down a little more and look as shorter springs though....
As the the dial twitch - no change unfortunately. I thought it was fine, but then did what it normally does, waited for 30 minutes until it was warm, and then started sporadically twitching. Bugger.
It might be related to the intermittent wiper setting though, so the next step is to take the steering wheel off and look at the stalk connections.
On a related note, I had a ball driving it round the north ring road. It was wet, and I managed to get a full wheel spin to the limiter in second moment coming off the roundabout and putting my foot down. Not entirely planned, but hilarious nonetheless! I was a lot more gentle on the next roundabout, which (back to @Tommie38) highlighted exactly how good that chassis is!
@griffin dai - this seems to follow on nicely... Performance wise, well, its not as quick in a straight line and the noise isn't as good, but in terms of A & B road performance in the real world, I think that the G60 holds its own very well. In standard form it's 30 hp down on the VR6, but about 100kg lighter (I think), although the gearbox means that it loses out on the 0-60 time as it only hits 58 in second.... Number top trumps aside - having had both on track, I thought the G60 felt less nose heavy, and if I wanted to, releasing that extra 30hp through a smaller pulley and a re-chip would be easy enough. However, it's never going to be as swift as my 400cc bike (let alone my other half's 1100...) so I've not bothered.
@bolidemichael indeed! I still have more fun round track on my 400 than I did on my 1000! Just hilarious in the way it felt, cornered, and went around the outside of larger bikes!
Anyway, back to the G60 - managed to get a little bit of work done over the weekend - gave it a wash (nothing special there), but also tried to look at some of the issues I've been having...
The wipers on the Corrado are notoriously poor - a combination of the slant of the windscreen and the weaker springs on the wiper arms, means that clearing the windscreen of water is not their forte. A common modification used to be fitting the arms from the Lupo GTI, however, that's now stupidly expensive, so I chose the other modification... Pull the wiper arms off and break out the 'I can't believe it's not a Dremmel' and file down the stops...
In theory, this will allow the existing spring to pull the wiper harder onto the screen, meaning it might actually prove effective above 60mph....
I also started looking for the electrical gremlins that are causing the clock needles to twitch at random. Starting with the battery negative terminal, I cleaned the contacts on all earths using emery paper and contact cleaner. The one behind the battery, the one on the passenger bulkhead that connects to the rocker cover, the one on the water pump, and crucially a large multi earth point on the inside of the drivers wing which was corroded....
This was a swine to get at, but once I realised it would come out easily, cleaning it became simple! One 10mm nut later....
Crusty!
Having done all of this yesterday, I took it out this evening (when it was wet) to see if there was any change....
Well, the wipers are better. Not GOOD ,but better. They now clear the screen above 60mph, and after that, I can use Rainex, so not all bad. I might file down a little more and look as shorter springs though....
As the the dial twitch - no change unfortunately. I thought it was fine, but then did what it normally does, waited for 30 minutes until it was warm, and then started sporadically twitching. Bugger.
It might be related to the intermittent wiper setting though, so the next step is to take the steering wheel off and look at the stalk connections.
On a related note, I had a ball driving it round the north ring road. It was wet, and I managed to get a full wheel spin to the limiter in second moment coming off the roundabout and putting my foot down. Not entirely planned, but hilarious nonetheless! I was a lot more gentle on the next roundabout, which (back to @Tommie38) highlighted exactly how good that chassis is!
bolidemichael said:
As for the rainX, go for a proper hydrophobic coating and you'll negate the requirement for wipers over 40mph. Angelwax or GTechniq.
Thanks for that - sounds good, I’ll get some and give it a try!A very minor update - no photos as (whisper it) I paid someone else to do it due to a shortage of time. The shame.
I’ve mentioned I have trust issues when it comes to garages, but I’ve used this chap before, so fingers crossed. I bought the parts and he fitted them too, which is a great bonus, but he is an old school mechanic with an interest in old stuff (he has a Jag hearse, a Calibra and a few other interesting things).
New rear wheel bearings, disks and pads supplied by me, labour, swearing and trouble getting the rear brakes bled up supplied by him. You know what? For £80, I’m more than happy.
Car feels much nicer (although I’ve only been across town) but that might be just not having the hum of a pair of knackered wheel bearings accompanying my every move....
All good with the replaced wheel bearings, the car still feels a delight to drive.
However, I have been having to top up the cooling system. I wondered if I'd made an error with the cooling system, perhaps not having tightened up a clamp, but no Fortunately (?) it's not the clamps, but another component.
In standard form the oil 'cooler' allows the oil and water to mix next to each other, and is attached to the block,and the oil filter spins on to it. It looks like it's failed as there's signs of emulsification on the surface (although thankfully no obvious mixing in the oil or the coolant).
I had the same failure on a Passat (and possibly a Mk2 Golf too), and the part isn't expensive (about £20). I did think about deleting it when I put a propoer oil cooler in a number of years ago, but it actually still serves a purpose. It actually warms through the oil nicely as I think the coolant comes up to temperature more swiftly. I'll get it replaced shortly, although it's a pain to do as the bumper will need to come off as some idiot put an oil cooler in the way....
However, I have been having to top up the cooling system. I wondered if I'd made an error with the cooling system, perhaps not having tightened up a clamp, but no Fortunately (?) it's not the clamps, but another component.
In standard form the oil 'cooler' allows the oil and water to mix next to each other, and is attached to the block,and the oil filter spins on to it. It looks like it's failed as there's signs of emulsification on the surface (although thankfully no obvious mixing in the oil or the coolant).
I had the same failure on a Passat (and possibly a Mk2 Golf too), and the part isn't expensive (about £20). I did think about deleting it when I put a propoer oil cooler in a number of years ago, but it actually still serves a purpose. It actually warms through the oil nicely as I think the coolant comes up to temperature more swiftly. I'll get it replaced shortly, although it's a pain to do as the bumper will need to come off as some idiot put an oil cooler in the way....
'Get it replaced shortly' has unfortunately become 'get it to a garage at short notice as it overheated when stuck in traffic for 45 minutes.'
Getting pressure tested this week which will hopefully prove the weak link to be the cooler and not the HG.
On the plus side, it's given us the opportunity to borrow back an old friend while the investigations are conducted...
The AX is back!
Getting pressure tested this week which will hopefully prove the weak link to be the cooler and not the HG.
On the plus side, it's given us the opportunity to borrow back an old friend while the investigations are conducted...
The AX is back!
@rickygolf83 thanks man. It was not terrible news, although slightly embarrassing....
Having investigated, pressure tested the system, the good news is that the HG hasn’t gone yet...and neither has the oil cooler. Turns out one of the bottom hose clips wasn’t on to the rally spec ‘FT’ and the system pressurised to the point of allowing some coolant to leak out.
This is this first time it’s done this since replacing all the hoses, and likely related to the fact that the fuse for the second stage fan speed had blown. A combination of exceptional traffic and a blown fuse then. Still annoying, but I’m glad it was nothing worse.
Having investigated, pressure tested the system, the good news is that the HG hasn’t gone yet...and neither has the oil cooler. Turns out one of the bottom hose clips wasn’t on to the rally spec ‘FT’ and the system pressurised to the point of allowing some coolant to leak out.
This is this first time it’s done this since replacing all the hoses, and likely related to the fact that the fuse for the second stage fan speed had blown. A combination of exceptional traffic and a blown fuse then. Still annoying, but I’m glad it was nothing worse.
One of the advantages of being on my 4th Corrado is that some problems that crop up have been seen before...
For example, when the headlights stopped working on high beam on a twisty back road in North Yorkshire in winter, with a corner approaching, once the immediate problem of illuminating the road was solved, I knew where to look...
The upgraded headlight loom that I installed a number of years ago was the most likely candidate, as its an addition to the existing circuit and not seamlessly integrated. I remembered that it had pulled a similar trick (taking the dipped lights away that time) on a previous Corrado.
Yup, same problem:
New (waterproof) relays on order, and I'll keep the one that's not completely knackered as a spare.
There's also a road speed related hum from the front wheels (I think). Having jacked the car up, the wheels don't spin freely, so it's either a sticking caliper, or the front bearings. It doesn't feel like it's grumbling, so I'll check the calipers first...
For example, when the headlights stopped working on high beam on a twisty back road in North Yorkshire in winter, with a corner approaching, once the immediate problem of illuminating the road was solved, I knew where to look...
The upgraded headlight loom that I installed a number of years ago was the most likely candidate, as its an addition to the existing circuit and not seamlessly integrated. I remembered that it had pulled a similar trick (taking the dipped lights away that time) on a previous Corrado.
Yup, same problem:
New (waterproof) relays on order, and I'll keep the one that's not completely knackered as a spare.
There's also a road speed related hum from the front wheels (I think). Having jacked the car up, the wheels don't spin freely, so it's either a sticking caliper, or the front bearings. It doesn't feel like it's grumbling, so I'll check the calipers first...
@bolidemichael, the additional loom for the lights was bought as a unit (one of the first things I did of I recall!). While I sealed it in a sandwich tub to keep out any splash, this looks like condensation induced corrosion, and I didn't think it would have been too much of an issue at the time. Live and learn!
I think I will add the relays to the annual service inspection list though....
I think I will add the relays to the annual service inspection list though....
I wonder it you sprayed something such as Bilt Hamber Forrosol, whether this would act as preventative maintenance?
Thanks @bolidemichael and @Spinakerr for the suggestions. The new units are in and treated with some ACF50 which I use on the bike for winter riding. I like the look of the Bilt Hamber stuff though and I think that the underside of the Corrado and the Morris have a date with their underseal...
Of course in fitting the replacements, there was some head scratching as to whether I'd wired up the N/S headlight relay correctly. I had, it's just that I'd also blown the high beam and the sidelight. Luckily the headlight unit is 2 8mm bolts and a Philips screw to remove it.
All (hopefully) ready for moving us about over Christmas!
Of course in fitting the replacements, there was some head scratching as to whether I'd wired up the N/S headlight relay correctly. I had, it's just that I'd also blown the high beam and the sidelight. Luckily the headlight unit is 2 8mm bolts and a Philips screw to remove it.
All (hopefully) ready for moving us about over Christmas!
Safe travels, good to hear another PHer taking the 'running project' for the Christmas break - what is life without a bit of danger?
+1 for BiltHamber, not only the projects but the advice over the phone on quantity and prep - check out my Rover 75 thread for my first tentative steps.
+1 for BiltHamber, not only the projects but the advice over the phone on quantity and prep - check out my Rover 75 thread for my first tentative steps.
@Spinakerr - will do thanks, I've really enjoyed following your Triumph thread, so I look forward to checking it out.
@okenemem thanks - still more work to do but I'll get there....
Speaking of which, despite proving the overheating was a loose hose, I'm still pretty sure that the old oil cooler is leaking, so I've ordered as replacement along with oil and filter to go with it.
So far, I have the oil and the cooler, but I'm missing the filter, and the most important part - the new front wheel bearings and hubs.
The Corrado got me to London and back for a shift on Boxing Day (secure parking in the middle of London was a definite bonus while on a 14 hour day), however the front wheel bearings are really not happy.
Once the parts have arrived, then I have a friendly garage who will fit them for me if I don't have time or inclination. I also have plans to polybush the suspension, but we'll see how that goes... Not sure how easy pressing the old ones out will be....
@okenemem thanks - still more work to do but I'll get there....
Speaking of which, despite proving the overheating was a loose hose, I'm still pretty sure that the old oil cooler is leaking, so I've ordered as replacement along with oil and filter to go with it.
So far, I have the oil and the cooler, but I'm missing the filter, and the most important part - the new front wheel bearings and hubs.
The Corrado got me to London and back for a shift on Boxing Day (secure parking in the middle of London was a definite bonus while on a 14 hour day), however the front wheel bearings are really not happy.
Once the parts have arrived, then I have a friendly garage who will fit them for me if I don't have time or inclination. I also have plans to polybush the suspension, but we'll see how that goes... Not sure how easy pressing the old ones out will be....
The new front wheel bearings and hubs went on, although from the garage report, I'm glad I gave it to Mick to do... Tales of woe from siezed bolts, although apparently the hubs were the one thing that were fine! The handbrake mechanism and brake balance mechanism are not enjoying being parked on the street though, and are seizing up, so more regular applications of lubrication are required (along with just parking in gear).
I've still not got to replacing the oil cooler, although now the clocks have changed, I might be able to have an hour or two on it in the evenings. With the current situation however, work is busier then ever, so we'll see....
The priority this weekend however was fishing the driver's door handle, which, rather embarrassingly broke as I was trying to get back into it on the hard shoulder of the M62. At night. Really not ideal having to open it from inside and shove it far enough so that it stayed open while hoping it didn't get taken out by a truck....
Still, I've been here before. 5 years ago checking the thread (blimey), so I ordered another repair kit, slightly annoyed that the first one hadn't lasted as long as I'd hoped, and got to work....
Glad I had the thread from last time when I'd done 3 screws and thought they was it. Although, in case they're is a next time, the way to pry the inner handle off to reveal the screws is like this..
Eventually, we got to this:
Which wasn't broken, just sticking really badly. Excellent result. Lots of oil and grease later and it wasn't sticking any more. Bloody marvellous, job done...
Reassembled the whole lot...to find it didn't work. Oh. Lots of head scratching, peering through the door seeing it operate the latch mechanism, taking it out, double checking it eventually resulted in me spotting this :
A small piece of the mechanism has broken off, meaning the return spring returns the striker a far as it can because there is nothing to stop it. While the mechanism now moves beautifully, the striker doesn't depress the latch far enough to open the door. Most annoying.
Possibly more annoying is the fact that a single replacement handle appears to go for £70+ secondhand online, with presumably the same amount of wear and fatigue.
A trawl of my memory resulted in me thinking about the popular 'de-locked passat handle' modification from 20 years ago (back when alarms were manadatory for insurance). A little research into part numbers suggests that while a pair of B3 Passat handles won't work as they are (the strikers are the wrong way round), the strikers are a straight swap (with some drilling of course).
They're also £8 for a pair of new handles with 2 keys. Bargain. Good job I bought those striker pins after all then. Looks like that's my job for the Easter weekend then!
I've still not got to replacing the oil cooler, although now the clocks have changed, I might be able to have an hour or two on it in the evenings. With the current situation however, work is busier then ever, so we'll see....
The priority this weekend however was fishing the driver's door handle, which, rather embarrassingly broke as I was trying to get back into it on the hard shoulder of the M62. At night. Really not ideal having to open it from inside and shove it far enough so that it stayed open while hoping it didn't get taken out by a truck....
Still, I've been here before. 5 years ago checking the thread (blimey), so I ordered another repair kit, slightly annoyed that the first one hadn't lasted as long as I'd hoped, and got to work....
Glad I had the thread from last time when I'd done 3 screws and thought they was it. Although, in case they're is a next time, the way to pry the inner handle off to reveal the screws is like this..
Eventually, we got to this:
Which wasn't broken, just sticking really badly. Excellent result. Lots of oil and grease later and it wasn't sticking any more. Bloody marvellous, job done...
Reassembled the whole lot...to find it didn't work. Oh. Lots of head scratching, peering through the door seeing it operate the latch mechanism, taking it out, double checking it eventually resulted in me spotting this :
A small piece of the mechanism has broken off, meaning the return spring returns the striker a far as it can because there is nothing to stop it. While the mechanism now moves beautifully, the striker doesn't depress the latch far enough to open the door. Most annoying.
Possibly more annoying is the fact that a single replacement handle appears to go for £70+ secondhand online, with presumably the same amount of wear and fatigue.
A trawl of my memory resulted in me thinking about the popular 'de-locked passat handle' modification from 20 years ago (back when alarms were manadatory for insurance). A little research into part numbers suggests that while a pair of B3 Passat handles won't work as they are (the strikers are the wrong way round), the strikers are a straight swap (with some drilling of course).
They're also £8 for a pair of new handles with 2 keys. Bargain. Good job I bought those striker pins after all then. Looks like that's my job for the Easter weekend then!
@MightyBadger very nice! I have (mostly) fond memories of both of my 16v Corrados, the 1.8 handled particularly well (but I think that was the suspension tweaks more than the motor...)
I was almost tempted to pick up another valver when they were going for a song - kicking myself now that I didn’t!
I was almost tempted to pick up another valver when they were going for a song - kicking myself now that I didn’t!
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