147 GTA progress thread (July 2013 to present)

[V6todayEVmanana]

That engine is too prestine to put oil in

Please keep sharing the details.

My 3.0 came with an oil cooler, it started corrode and weep oil, I ended up replacing it with a mopar version but the pipes were history. So well done on that preventive measure. I've got rubber pipes, been doing the job for years but not as nice to look at.

[Zombie]

V6todayEVmanana said:

That engine is too prestine to put oil in

Please keep sharing the details.

My 3.0 came with an oil cooler, it started corrode and weep oil, I ended up replacing it with a mopar version but the pipes were history. So well done on that preventive measure. I've got rubber pipes, been doing the job for years but not as nice to look at.

Thanks.

You've got me questioning myself now. Despite the fact there's a 3.0 v6 sat in the garage, I can't remember whether it had an oil cooler or heat exchanger. I know it has an exchanger now as it's been modified to go into a 156...

[Zombie]

Update for the last few weeks. Progress has been slow, mostly hindered by the weather (rain).

With the engine out, it made sense to sort out the creaking clutch pedal, which is a very common problem on 147s and the GT. There are a number of ways to bodge a repair but they never last long. The only way to resolve it is with a new master cylinder which is not at all easy to fit with the engine in the car.

IMG_1581 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1584 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1579 by Chris, on Flickr

The issue, aside from have to stand on your head in the footwell to unbolt the cylinder is re-connecting the feed pipe from the reservoir. You have to push it through the rubber grommet in the bulkhead, which is a particularly tight fit.

IMG_1574 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1575 by Chris, on Flickr

The solid pipe with the clip on it is line to the clutch slave cylinder. It has, what is described as a damper between the master and the slave and, as I spotted one for sale online for £30ish I bought one in anticipation of the rebuild;

IMG_1577 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1576 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1586 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1585 by Chris, on Flickr

The next step was to jack the car up, remove the subframe and clean up the engine bay;

IMG_1609-2 by Chris, on Flickr

Unlike the 159 / Brera, the subframes on the 156/147 platforms don't generally have issues with corrosion and the one on the GTA is fine. But, I didn't;t think it should be ignored, so my Dad had had a look at it. He first cleaned it and then chemically treated some minor surface rust;

IMG_1613 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1614-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1616 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1618 by Chris, on Flickr

Etch primed it;

IMG_1641-2 by Chris, on Flickr

And painted it;

IMG_0924-3 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_0926-2 by Chris, on Flickr

The lower gearbox mount in the subframe was looking a little worse for wear, so it's had a new one;

IMG_0925-2 by Chris, on Flickr

And given that the Anti Roll Bar bushes are well know to wear, causing a suspension knock, it's had new bushes too;

IMG_0922-4 by Chris, on Flickr

[Zombie]

Whilst all the above was being carried out, we pulled the driver's seat out. One issue that is common with 147 and 156 GTAs is that the driver's seat is almost always knackered. The seat base cushion collapses and the back rest side bolster wears as you get in and out of the cars. Even low mileage cars suffer from this.

Whilst the seat in mine is particularly good, owing to some preventative maintenance being undertaken by my Dad some years ago, it was not great;

IMG_0919 2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_0920 by Chris, on Flickr

I've mentioned this earlier in the thread, bot here and on the Alfa forums, but to recap, I found and bought a brand new seat base;

IMG_0921 by Chris, on Flickr

Since buying it I've been contacted by a number of people seeking to buy it, one offered me £400!!

Instead, the seat was sent away to an upholsterer to have the leather repaired and the base fitted. It took 3 weeks and cost £290. Which means repairing the seat has effectively cost £690!

It still needs a clean so I don't have any pics of the finished article.

[Zombie]

This brings me upto a couple of weeks ago when, with the engine bay tidy;

IMG_1608 by Chris, on Flickr

My Dad and I started putting things back together.

We started by taking the front suspension off - that's the uprights, lower arms and driveshafts.

You can get the engine in (and out) with the subframe attached and the suspension mounted. But removing the subframe makes it much easier to get the engine in without damaging anything. And wit the engine looking all pretty and shiny that makes sense.

You can also just re-move the subframe and refit it with the engine and suspension in situ, but again, it's a right PITA to get the subframe in between the lower arms and it would scratched the st out of the freshly painted subframe.

In addition, I wanted to address the surface corrosion on the front suspension components, so off they came.

And in went the engine. This time, remembering to fill the gearbox with oil beforehand;

IMG_1604-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1619-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1621-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1622-2 by Chris, on Flickr

As you might expect, as soon as the engine was dangling off the engine crane, it started raining. Hard.

IMG_1624-2 by Chris, on Flickr

And, as you might also expect, after getting soaked, it stopped raining about 10min after the engine was in about bolted up...

IMG_1625-2 by Chris, on Flickr

[Zombie]

Since then, we've refitted the subframe;

IMG_1667-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1672-3 by Chris, on Flickr

Refurbished and refitted the driveshafts;

IMG_1666-2 by Chris, on Flickr

Removed the fork and refitted the lower arms

IMG_1685-2 by Chris, on Flickr

Cleaned up the forks and refitted them;

IMG_1686-2 by Chris, on Flickr

Cleaned up all 9 exhaust mounting faces like so;

IMG_1679-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1680-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1681-2 by Chris, on Flickr

(They have gaskets as well, this was just to ensure they sealed properly.)

And fitted the complete exhaust system.

Bringing me to the end of today - Day off to put the other (new) car through it's MOT. (More to come on this, as I've not mentioned it till now...)

[Zombie]

Except not quite.

(Houston, we have a problem.)

Deciding that it would be handy to have the battery refitted so that we can open the boot without faffing about with wires, clamps and a battery on the floor I put the tray in and started looking for the main feed from the starter motor to the +ive battery terminal.

This one;

IMG_1687-2 by Chris, on Flickr

It was in the boot.

And it goes here;

IMG_1141-2 by Chris, on Flickr

That's on the back of the engine, behind the rear manifold. Which is shrouded in heat shields and can't be removed with the engine in situ.

I have tomorrow off. I'm going to try and get the manifold off and out by dropping it off the front mounts but I suspect this is going up in the exhaust, suspension driveshafts, and subframe off, and the engine out.

For.

fks.

Sake.

[Zombie]

Success... It took 3.5 hours to sort it out though.

Dropping the engine off the 2 front mounts on trolley jacks and upper reaction link meant the we could tip the engine forward just enough to get the heat shield out, the manifold clear and the cable in;

IMG_1697 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1694 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1698 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1703 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1700 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1705 by Chris, on Flickr

If anyone is wondering, it may be possible to get the manifold out (for a CF2 swap), but, more clearance is needed. I think this can be achieved either by removing the air con pipes on the bulkhead or by dropping the front of the subframe - tilted forwards the engine results in the driveshafts resting on the subframe.

But with that drama resolved we were able to get the radiators in;

IMG_1707 by Chris, on Flickr

The front suspension rebuilt

IMG_1709 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1711-2 by Chris, on Flickr

The battery, airbox, and intake trunking in and the remainder of the electrical connections sorted out.

It's basically ready to start. But we didn't have enough coolant or P/steering fluid so it's going to have to wait.

IMG_1712-2 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1713-2 by Chris, on Flickr

[Bright Halo]

I am in absolute awe of your spannering ability and general get up and go.
To achieve what you have on your drive way is amazing. If you have that same kind of drive in the rest of your life and work you will be a success at whatever you do.
Amazing

[Lukas239]

Bright Halo said:

I am in absolute awe of your spannering ability and general get up and go.
To achieve what you have on your drive way is amazing. If you have that same kind of drive in the rest of your life and work you will be a success at whatever you do.
Amazing

This. And your photo quality & quantity is exceptional. What camer do you use?

[Zombie]

Lukas239 said:

Bright Halo said:

I am in absolute awe of your spannering ability and general get up and go.
To achieve what you have on your drive way is amazing. If you have that same kind of drive in the rest of your life and work you will be a success at whatever you do.
Amazing

This. And your photo quality & quantity is exceptional. What camer do you use?

Thank you both, appreciate it.

Most of the pics I've taken on a canon 650D. I always shoot in raw and in Manual.

I have a Canon Flash that I have a remote trigger for and my favoured lens is a super wide 10-18mm focal length, albeit on a crop sensor.

However, and somewhat frustratingly, most of the recent pics I've taken that have received positive comments (in particular the tbi rebuild thread) have mostly been taken on a iPhone!!! I did shoot in tiff format and edit them in lightroom though.

[Zombie]

Today...

https://youtu.be/4TWHDVP3NUc

[ZX10R NIN]

Great thread & amazing work.

[Zombie]

As everyone may have gathered from the video in my last post, it starts and runs. The good news is there's no problems; no engine light, no leaks. The tappets were noisy to begin with but that isn't unusal after a rebuild and they soon settled down.

The engine itself is much better, it had a very slight misfire when it was idling that has now gone, the injectors (which were cleaned) are definitely quieter, all the new idlers in the aux belt drive train mean that all that side of things is noticeably quieter too.

I'm really pleased with the way it's turned out.

Of course, My Dad has been busy during the week following our efforts to sort out the starter motor cable. He finished off the brakes which have had new (brembo) pads;

IMG_1726 by Chris, on Flickr

And he cleaned the most important bit;

IMG_1736 by Chris, on Flickr

(Bonnet catch)

In addition to finishing off the chassis stiffening plates which have been cleaned, primed and painted in stone chip. He's also cleaned up the underside of the car by the looks of it. I was only underneath it this evening as it was going dark to pull the axle stands out. It was too dark to get a decent picture of it, so I'll elaborate on this later.

Today started off looking like this

IMG_1731 by Chris, on Flickr

We had the engine running in an hour, all it need was some checks and the usual gallons of longline coolant.

After running it up to temperature, topping up fluids along the way we were at the stage where it was a case of just finishing some minor things off like putting the bumper back on. Before doing so I change the bulb holders in the indicators for new ones (that are very difficult to find) as they corrode, diminishing light output;

IMG_1748 by Chris, on Flickr

After that, we refitted the (new) arch liners;

IMG_1744 by Chris, on Flickr

And dropped it on the floor

IMG_1751-2 by Chris, on Flickr

It sounds simple but all the final details took a number of hours to sort out.

It's not quite finished either. The upper strut brace needs refitting. I'm not going to refit the the lower brace (they're both aftermarket) as it results in the under tray hanging lower and it can catch speed bumps as a result.

The under tray also needs refitting.

And then it's on to phase 2. The interior. Starting with the brand new interior carpet I bought for it.

Edited by Zombie on Sunday 27th October 23:19

[Zombie]

Ive mention that the driver's seat has been fettled previously but I didn't have any pics of it. All the seats, including the driver's seat need a proper clean but...

IMG_1855 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1854 by Chris, on Flickr

Obviously, we've the seats are out of the car for a reason - replace the interior carpet. But, as ever it's more involved than that.

This is the reason I've elected to replace it with a new carpet;

IMG_1847 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1848 by Chris, on Flickr

It's a small issue that is hidden completely by the floor mat - which is why I didn't spot it when I bought the car... But it has been bugging me ever since.

Another issue is floorpan corrosion. There was some minor rot in the outer sills, that was hidden by the plastic side skirts, which was repaired when it was repainted. The bodyshop guys said they had investigated the floor and inner sills and waxoyled everything they could get at but I was still concerned about this job and what it would uncover...

IMG_1861 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1863 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1868 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1873 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1874 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1875 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1884 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1886 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1889 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1890 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1891 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1877 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1896 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1897-2 by Chris, on Flickr

Which is a bit of a result. Obviously, I'm going to pull all the rubber lungs out and re-apply waxoyl to everything I can get at through them though.

And, in case anyone is wondering, I added the masking tape around the leading edges of the door shuts to stop them being scratched whilst we were working on it - Yes really, it would be noticeable if they were scratched...

[ITP]

I’ve noticed something.
You don’t have the correct GTA gearknob! Disaster!

[Zombie]

ITP said:

I’ve noticed something.
You don’t have the correct GTA gearknob! Disaster!

I thought someone would notice that as I was posting the pics. I still have the original, but it's nice to have new contact points IMO - the steering wheel is effectively brand new - I fitted a new one last year and it's done 1k since. Call me out for OCD if you wlll, but I think there's nothing worse than getting in a car and grabbing hold of 100k or even 40k miles of other people's hand slime...

[Zombie]

Thought I had updated this thread, obviously not. I also need to do something about the photo bucket links, I guess.

We finished off the interior last November.

New interior carpet fitted;

IMG_1932 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_1925-2 by Chris, on Flickr

And the refurbished driver's seat back in place

IMG_1929 by Chris, on Flickr

I insured and taxed it for the last week of January as the weather was half decent and took it for a few runs to make sure everything was OK. Gearbox is great, as is the clutch but that didn't come as a surprise. The drivers seat feels much more supportive and the engine pulls much better.

I also took it for a full alignment which after adjustment and allowing for the effects of the increased camber resulting from the lowered suspension, was absolutely spot on. - It's difficult to get this right as the subframe mounts has some movement in it that can throw it off slightly.

Really pleased with it overall, just need to detail the outside now. And take some pics, obvs...

[Zombie]

With Summer allegedly here, I decided to insure the GTA on the policy I have for my 159 - 3 cars, only 2 policies with the intention of finishing off some things from the engine rebuild.

1st thing on the list was an air con re-gas as it had a leaking radiator which was replaced with a good one. That was an easy job.

Having changed the bushes between the rear hubs which the trailing arms are bolted to on my Dad's 156, which we've rebuilt this year, we decided to do the same thing with my GTA, having found a solution to accessing the bush....

We started by replacing the hand brake cables, they're relatively chap and I thought a rear calliper may have been binging due to lack of use. The usual suspect being seized cables due to water ingress;

New v's old;

IMG_4047 by Chris, on Flickr

I was surprised and grateful to find that the genuine Alfa parts (from Alternative Autos) comes with a mounting bracket. The non gen cables don't and the ones on the car were corroded;

IMG_4047 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4050 by Chris, on Flickr

I also added some aluminium tape around the new cable where it passes under the exhaust as heat protection.

Moving to the bushes, the reason why they're a pita to change is you have to remove the wheel hub and, mostly likely, the abs sensor (which WILL break) in order to remove the brake disc shield.

And this needs to be out of the way to get the bolt that goes through the bush out;

IMG_4057 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4060 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4068 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4065 by Chris, on Flickr

And the solution to all of this.... A hole, cut with a step drill...

IMG_4070 by Chris, on Flickr

moving on to removal of the bush itself;

IMG_4084 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4072 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4088 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4074 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4092 by Chris, on Flickr

And the precision removal of the outer race of the bush. I used a jig saw to cut almost all the way through it and a hammer and chisel to knock it out. This part was, surprisingly, easy.

IMG_4094 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4104 by Chris, on Flickr

New bushes;

IMG_4098 by Chris, on Flickr

My Dad's fitting tool;

IMG_4099 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4100 by Chris, on Flickr

New bushes, done...

IMG_4119 by Chris, on Flickr

Next job: Binding brakes.

Nope, the new hand brake cables didn't entirely cure the problem... But whilst fiddly with the aforementioned bushes, I found that one of the calliper sliding pins on the driver's side had seized.

It was a little odd as they're all relatively new and the rubber bellows on the pin in question was in good condition;

IMG_4112 by Chris, on Flickr

My Dad had new sliding pins and seals in stock, so we replaced all 4 - 2 per side;

IMG_4117 by Chris, on Flickr

It was definitely worthwhile, the handbrake is working well and the brakes feel like a new car.

And this is where the fecking Beagle makes an appearance in my narrative.

My Dad and I undertook a some more work this week, and instead of using an iPhone, I broke out the SLR for a change and made a proper effort with my photos. I was rather pleased with some of them.

I pulled the SD card from the camera and left it on the coffee table next to my tea whilst I ran upstairs to get my phone. I returned to find my tea untouched as I had hoped and expected despite the Beagle's proximity, Upon offering her praise for this, she reciprocated by dropping the SD card from her mouth.







!!!!!

It was just that days photos she'd eviscerated either.

IMG_4158 by Chris, on Flickr

With the benefit of hindsight, I doubt anyone will be that upset about the lack of photos but I was somewhat annoyed about its demise at the time.


As part of the work my Dad and I undertook on his car ( new engine, gearbox, suspension, general restoration etc ), we fitted poly bushed trailing arms.

However, my Dad decided that he disliked the (minor) impact the bushes had had on ride quality. He rebuilt the trailing arms we took off the car with OE replacement bushes, leaving the poly bused trailing arms redundant....

Obviously, I said I'd like them. But it escalated in to a complete rebuild of the GTA's rear suspension, despite everything being relatively new, OEM - 4years old and less than 7k miles....

IMG_4148 by Chris, on Flickr

The 156 / 147 / GT platform has eccentric bolts on the rear subframe that allow for rear toe to be adjusted but only on one of the traverse arms. The other is fixed, meaning toe can be adjusted but not camber.

Happily, there is a shiny solution;

IMG_4149 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4153 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_4157 by Chris, on Flickr

Fitting was easy, as was setting the length of the adjustable arms - one end has a LH thread so you just undo the lock nuts and turn the middle section of the bar to lengthen / shorten them. I used the original arms as a jig to set the lengths of the new arms and I am satisfied with they accuracy but it's booked in for tracking this week.

However, I am please with the overall result, ride quality is, well, it's on eibachs and bilstiens, so it's not great but the additional changes have made little difference. Turn in, is certainly better. I wasn't expecting a huge difference but I would say that they have improved the feel of the car.

Next up, a bit of a detail and this brings me up to date with this thread.

The finish of the paint on the car following it's repaint was certainly better than it came out of the factory. I felt it could be better and I tried last year to improve it with a (rotary) buff and polish. Again, it was better but I felt it was as good as it could be.

Cue my Dad and his DA buffer....

It took a whole day and masking all the parts was a right pita. We also ignored the wheels but the result was pretty special;

IMG_9223 by Chris, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2jpuURY][img]https://live.staticflickr

.com/65535/50149034738_2f6b5b2883_b.jpg[/img][/url] IMG_9223 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_9227 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_9230 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_9233 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_9238 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_9248 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_9252 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_9253 by Chris, on Flickr

IMG_9254-2 by Chris, on Flickr

Edited by Zombie on Sunday 26th July 01:22

Edited by Zombie on Sunday 26th July 01:24

[Tmrtom]

Another of my favourite cars on pistonheads! Guessing you're keeping it then? I think I'd struggle to ever sell a car like that, even if it wasn't used all that much.