BMW E46 330d SE Touring
Discussion
20 years of fixing them, several years of owning a BMW specialist garage and owning three tends to make for a good spares selection!
Bumped into my friend with my old 328 today:
It could do with new rear arches as I paid someone do grind and paint them rather full new arches like I put on my last 330.
Bumped into my friend with my old 328 today:
It could do with new rear arches as I paid someone do grind and paint them rather full new arches like I put on my last 330.
Did a quick Insp II today. I used gen Merc 5w30 oil as I got 20l for for a good price.
Filters are Mann apart from the crankcase breather which is gen BMW. I use a copper washer on the sump plug as I don’t like the alloy ones that Mann supply.
New parts:
Old breather:
Nice new filter:
Special funnel:
All done:
Filters are Mann apart from the crankcase breather which is gen BMW. I use a copper washer on the sump plug as I don’t like the alloy ones that Mann supply.
New parts:
Old breather:
Nice new filter:
Special funnel:
All done:
eezeh said:
Helix, you seem to be pretty experienced with the e46 and im sure we can both agree BMW's service mileage intervals are bulls
t. What intervals do you use to change your spark plugs, fluids, filters etc?
I alternate with Oil Service and Insp 2, (oil and filter/all filters). Every 1 year/10k miles whichever is first. Brake fluid every 2 years, coolant every 4. Plugs are fine at BMWs recommendation of every 60k (it’s 100k in the US with the same plugs).t. What intervals do you use to change your spark plugs, fluids, filters etc?I don’t do the pollen filter every service, just when it gets dirty. Mahle/Mann or gen BMW are the best filters.
Since changing the turbo pressure converter for a later type used one I had there was an intermittent problem.
On light throttle the car was surging, as if the boost was rapidly rising and falling. I went for the no diagnosis route, I’m sure there’s a test module for the converter and I could have done live data monitoring but as the problem has arisen since the part was changed I decided to go for a new one.
I went for a Pierburg as they make them for BMW. It came with a horrible part no sticker on it. Which I removed to reveal the BMW part no.
New part:
Old part:
New part:
All back together:
Will it fix the problem or will I have to do some diagnosis?
On light throttle the car was surging, as if the boost was rapidly rising and falling. I went for the no diagnosis route, I’m sure there’s a test module for the converter and I could have done live data monitoring but as the problem has arisen since the part was changed I decided to go for a new one.
I went for a Pierburg as they make them for BMW. It came with a horrible part no sticker on it. Which I removed to reveal the BMW part no.
New part:
Old part:
New part:
All back together:
Will it fix the problem or will I have to do some diagnosis?
Surging power delivery has been fixed by the new solenoid. It also has the bonus of giving more low down power and torque.
Today I changed the o/s/r trailing arm bush. (N/s is for another day). I fitted a genuine BMW M3 bush as it’s firmer and I’ve seen the quality of some aftermarket bushes slip recently.
New parts:
Hose clip keeps the bush compressed for fitting
Old bush in situ:
Usual E46 surface rust present.
Old bush coming out:
Dead bush-original:
New bush fitted:
Bracket on:
Finished, with rust removed and Bilt Hambers finest wax:
The toe is out (literally) but I ran out of patience to adjust it correctly. I’ll pay someone too much money for a 4 wheel alignment when the n/s is done.
Tightening torques are 77Nm for the three bolts and 110Nm for the bracket nut.
Today I changed the o/s/r trailing arm bush. (N/s is for another day). I fitted a genuine BMW M3 bush as it’s firmer and I’ve seen the quality of some aftermarket bushes slip recently.
New parts:
Hose clip keeps the bush compressed for fitting
Old bush in situ:
Usual E46 surface rust present.
Old bush coming out:
Dead bush-original:
New bush fitted:
Bracket on:
Finished, with rust removed and Bilt Hambers finest wax:
The toe is out (literally) but I ran out of patience to adjust it correctly. I’ll pay someone too much money for a 4 wheel alignment when the n/s is done.
Tightening torques are 77Nm for the three bolts and 110Nm for the bracket nut.
I've got that job to look forward to in the next week or so, it doesn't look a particularly difficult job and I have the the correct tool to remove the bushings, but it isn't something I've done before. I also need to change a brake caliper on the front and I'll probably do something with the rear top mounts this weekend, but I've done those things before. Don't think I'll get the 'fun' things done though which is to put my new (to me) bonnet and front wing on to sort out the front end.
Any recommendations for rear springs? I'd like to change them in the near future, but it looks like slim pickings from most places in terms of what I'd call 'trusted' brands. Is it a case of going to a dealer because they're not that much more expensive and you'll actually get like-for-like and not cheap rubbish? Just looking for standard replacement rear springs for a Sport saloon despite my original intentions of going down the Eibach (slightly lowered) route.
Any recommendations for rear springs? I'd like to change them in the near future, but it looks like slim pickings from most places in terms of what I'd call 'trusted' brands. Is it a case of going to a dealer because they're not that much more expensive and you'll actually get like-for-like and not cheap rubbish? Just looking for standard replacement rear springs for a Sport saloon despite my original intentions of going down the Eibach (slightly lowered) route.
For springs Sachs are good if you don’t want genuine BMW. The springs from BMW are matched to the cars options so will be perfect for the car whilst aftermarket ones will be close enough.
My rear springs are original so I got a price from BMW for new ones, £134 each. I’m banned by my wife from lowering this one so no H&R or Eibach!
My rear springs are original so I got a price from BMW for new ones, £134 each. I’m banned by my wife from lowering this one so no H&R or Eibach!
Rust! I found some. In traditional E46 style it wasn’t visible.
The lower edge of the o/s/r arch had some bubbling under the paint and the grommet in the same arch had rust pushing the underseal up around the edge.
I didn’t take photos of the whole job, just one during and one at the end.
During repair:
Finished:
I didn’t overpaint the inner arch body colour as I hate overspray and was too lazy to do lots of masking.
I used Bilt Hamber rust removing/sealing products and Wurth seam sealant and underseal. The arch was brush painted.
This was the same job on my last 330d (2 years older with an extra 100k):
Before:
Moral of the story. Don’t buy an old BMW. No-do!
Just catch the rust early and be prepared to fix it properly.
The lower edge of the o/s/r arch had some bubbling under the paint and the grommet in the same arch had rust pushing the underseal up around the edge.
I didn’t take photos of the whole job, just one during and one at the end.
During repair:
Finished:
I didn’t overpaint the inner arch body colour as I hate overspray and was too lazy to do lots of masking.
I used Bilt Hamber rust removing/sealing products and Wurth seam sealant and underseal. The arch was brush painted.
This was the same job on my last 330d (2 years older with an extra 100k):
Before:
Moral of the story. Don’t buy an old BMW. No-do!
Just catch the rust early and be prepared to fix it properly.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff