2012 Ford Focus Titanium

[geraintthomas]

Podie said:

A company called Autobeam do a complete unit replacement for the wing mirror indicators. Full LED across the lamp, a choice of clear, white or black - and with a switch to choose between static or sequential indicators.

https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/focus-mk3-5-201...

Currently 30% off with the code "AB30" - if you're quick...

Oh I'll take a look at those... thanks! I did see them on ebay but wasn't sure if I was interested in adding them. I'll be changing the bulb for an LED though at very minimum.

One thing I do want to add in the future is the DRL lamps for the front, but only after I add the xenon lamps so that it matches.

These:



I really don't like the vertical ones, I saw them in the skin a few days ago and they look very aftermarket. The horizontal ones aren't that bad at all.

[Podie]

geraintthomas said:

Podie said:

A company called Autobeam do a complete unit replacement for the wing mirror indicators. Full LED across the lamp, a choice of clear, white or black - and with a switch to choose between static or sequential indicators.

https://autobeam.co.uk/collections/focus-mk3-5-201...

Currently 30% off with the code "AB30" - if you're quick...

Oh I'll take a look at those... thanks! I did see them on ebay but wasn't sure if I was interested in adding them. I'll be changing the bulb for an LED though at very minimum.

One thing I do want to add in the future is the DRL lamps for the front, but only after I add the xenon lamps so that it matches.

These:



I really don't like the vertical ones, I saw them in the skin a few days ago and they look very aftermarket. The horizontal ones aren't that bad at all.

I imagine those DRLs are like rocking horse poo these days. Seem to recall I posted the Ford FINIS code earlier in the thread for you.

Photo of the clear Autobeam indicators for you. The whole strip lights up (which I prefer) and I have them in static mode as the other indicators aren’t sequential (and I dislike sequentials anyway!)

[geraintthomas]

Podie said:

I imagine those DRLs are like rocking horse poo these days. Seem to recall I posted the Ford FINIS code earlier in the thread for you.

Photo of the clear Autobeam indicators for you. The whole strip lights up (which I prefer) and I have them in static mode as the other indicators aren’t sequential (and I dislike sequentials anyway!)

Hmm... not quite sold on that I'm afraid! Only as you can see the SMD's inside which aren't perfectly lined up (yup, I'm that picky). Maybe the white ones would be a little better on a white car.

[Podie]

geraintthomas said:

Podie said:

I imagine those DRLs are like rocking horse poo these days. Seem to recall I posted the Ford FINIS code earlier in the thread for you.

Photo of the clear Autobeam indicators for you. The whole strip lights up (which I prefer) and I have them in static mode as the other indicators aren’t sequential (and I dislike sequentials anyway!)

Hmm... not quite sold on that I'm afraid! Only as you can see the SMD's inside which aren't perfectly lined up (yup, I'm that picky). Maybe the white ones would be a little better on a white car.

I think some of it may be photo trickery - they look straight

Not a huge fan of being able to see the SMDs, but I took a punt on a pre-order...

[mholt1995]

geraintthomas said:

Oh I'll take a look at those... thanks! I did see them on ebay but wasn't sure if I was interested in adding them. I'll be changing the bulb for an LED though at very minimum.

One thing I do want to add in the future is the DRL lamps for the front, but only after I add the xenon lamps so that it matches.

These:



I really don't like the vertical ones, I saw them in the skin a few days ago and they look very aftermarket. The horizontal ones aren't that bad at all.

Instead of gutting another set of headlights to add projectors and adding those DRLs, would it not be more sensible to just upgrade to Titanium X/ST headlights? That way you'll get factory xenons and integrated DRLs.

[geraintthomas]

mholt1995 said:

Instead of gutting another set of headlights to add projectors and adding those DRLs, would it not be more sensible to just upgrade to Titanium X/ST headlights? That way you'll get factory xenons and integrated DRLs.

It would, if they weren't like rocking horse poo to find. I'm sure they were silly price the late time I checked?

[geraintthomas]

Just had another look, average price is £300 per lamp. From Ford it's almost £580 per lamp.

Putting Bi-Xenon projectors in costs £50, and the DRL's about the same, so it's much more cost effective. The reason why I haven't included the headlamp costs is that if it goes well, I'd sell my originals to compensate.

It would be nice though to keep it standard Ford equipment, it's just far too expensive for just a set of headlights.

[mholt1995]

geraintthomas said:

Just had another look, average price is £300 per lamp. From Ford it's almost £580 per lamp.

Putting Bi-Xenon projectors in costs £50, and the DRL's about the same, so it's much more cost effective. The reason why I haven't included the headlamp costs is that if it goes well, I'd sell my originals to compensate.

It would be nice though to keep it standard Ford equipment, it's just far too expensive for just a set of headlights.

Ah okay, that makes sense then, didn't realise they were so expensive!

[Mr Pointy]

geraintthomas said:

Just had another look, average price is £300 per lamp. From Ford it's almost £580 per lamp.

Putting Bi-Xenon projectors in costs £50, and the DRL's about the same, so it's much more cost effective. The reason why I haven't included the headlamp costs is that if it goes well, I'd sell my originals to compensate.

It would be nice though to keep it standard Ford equipment, it's just far too expensive for just a set of headlights.

Won't changing the headlights lead to potential MoT issues?

[geraintthomas]

Mr Pointy said:

Won't changing the headlights lead to potential MoT issues?

Technically yes, but if they're done well and look factory you'd seldom have issues. I had modified headlights on my previous Boxster and they were fine; the beam pattern and colour were correct so they had no issues.

[DickP]

Hi,

Nice car and I like seeing when people still take pride in higher than average mile average family cars.

I have a question however. I did (briefly) own a 2011 plate Focus mk3 estate with the 2.0 TDCi. I discovered that there was an awful delay between the accelerator being depressed and the car actually responding to it. Browsing online suggested it was related to emission controls. Does your 1.6 TDCi have a very noticeable lag before the engine responds? (This is very different to turbo lag)

Mine also raised the idle speed when pulling away, overriding the accelerator pedal input, but would then drop the revs again before I had fully engaged the clutch. This could cause violent lurching when setting off from stationary. Have you experienced this yourself with the smaller engine?

Since moving the car on I did wonder whether the very early mk3 was prone to these behaviours as they had just upgraded the engine to meet new euro emission standards?

Thanks,

[geraintthomas]

DickP said:

Hi,

Nice car and I like seeing when people still take pride in higher than average mile average family cars.

I have a question however. I did (briefly) own a 2011 plate Focus mk3 estate with the 2.0 TDCi. I discovered that there was an awful delay between the accelerator being depressed and the car actually responding to it. Browsing online suggested it was related to emission controls. Does your 1.6 TDCi have a very noticeable lag before the engine responds? (This is very different to turbo lag)

Mine also raised the idle speed when pulling away, overriding the accelerator pedal input, but would then drop the revs again before I had fully engaged the clutch. This could cause violent lurching when setting off from stationary. Have you experienced this yourself with the smaller engine?

Since moving the car on I did wonder whether the very early mk3 was prone to these behaviours as they had just upgraded the engine to meet new euro emission standards?

Thanks,

Very interesting... I've not had any issues. The lag is there a little, but it's nothing substantial. For me it's the characteristics of a non-powerful turbo Diesel engine. I've not had an issue with the feel at all, so I couldn't actually say if it's there sorry!

In other news, guess what issues I have.

F%#*>NG BRAKE PROBLEMS.

It's the same brake, and it's started squeaking again when the brakes are applied. The squeak happens with every half a rotation of the wheel, and coming to a stop a knock takes its place.

I've replaced the caliper, then rebuilt the original caliper, replaced the discs and the pads twice, greased everything, replaced the retainer clip, the sliding bolts, the rubbers... everything. I'm running out of options.

Since I've rebuilt the old caliper, the disc is wearing correctly and doesn't overheat, which is great as that's a first. The brakes feel spot on. But now it's starting to chirp when I apply the brake. If I brake heavier, it disappears. On long drives, it starts to chirp without even braking. I'm hoping that if I re-grease the pads more and bend the clips of the inner pad that slots into the pot so that it has a more secure fit, it'll go away. If not, I could try Brembo pads. But it could be the disc again. Ish.

I need to jack up the front end and need to ask my other half to slowly start releasing the clutch in first to spin the front wheels, just to check for any wobbles in the disc reflection. This disc is brand new, after new seals, sliding bolts and after a freshly built original caliper. There's no overheating, so no reason for it to be warped. If it's not wobbling, I could put the squeaking down to an issue with the pads (either the fitment or the pads themselves), in which case some Brembo's rather than these Eicher's may be better. If the reflection is wobbling though, it may be my wheel hub carrier that's not straight. My garage told me this can happen, but I've not heard of it. In which case, a used hub carrier and a new wheel hub would be in order.

I'll let you know what happens. I'm getting a little sick of this brake issue.

[BricktopST205]

Maybe it's a wheel bearing? If the caliper was originally sticking it could have cooked the grease in the bearing.

[joe6886]

Before you replace anything else, if the drive flange is still as full of rust as it is on page 4 then I’d suggest cleaning that up with a wire wheel and some emery paper. At least give the disc a chance of sitting flat.

[geraintthomas]

joe6886 said:

Before you replace anything else, if the drive flange is still as full of rust as it is on page 4 then I’d suggest cleaning that up with a wire wheel and some emery paper. At least give the disc a chance of sitting flat.

Already did shortly after, but perhaps not as much as I should have. Thanks for bringing that up though, I'll go nuts at it this weekend.

[DickP]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. Interesting to hear you don't have the same experience with the 1.6 as did with the 2.0.

Also agree check for play in the wheel bearing (may be best done with pads removed, wheel back on and then rock the wheel?).

Thanks,

[bungz]

the chirping as you are driving would maybe think something isn't sitting true.

What a pain.

[geraintthomas]

Right. For the last f***ing time, I've sorted the brake. Hopefully.

As you said, the hub wasn't great when it came to rust on its surface, and it was only by cleaning it did I realise how bad it was.





There's clearly a build up here, especially noticeable at the top of that hub. The middle face doesn't touch the disk, only the inner and outer parts of the hub as they're raised. I got to work on them by first spraying copious amounts of PlusGas, then sat for about 20 minutes with a wire brush.



Afterwards I sanded the whole face by hand to remove as much of the blemishes as possible.





Far cleaner, and I can't feel any raised parts. I've also done the areas that the carrier bolts to the car, as well as the pad wings and where the pads sit onto the carrier. Essentially, if something touches something, I've cleaned it, rubbed it back and greased it. That sentence doesn't sound at all dodgey.



There's no noise, no clicks, no nothing. I'm hoping that's the last I'll hear of the brake issues, and can finally put it down to surface contamination of the hub setting the disc out of line.

Here's hoping.

[geraintthomas]

Guess what.

Still got brake issues.

Will update soon.

[TotalControl]

geraintthomas said:

Guess what.

Still got brake issues.

Will update soon.

This must be driving you nuts.

I've been fondly reading most of your car threads and your Celica thread is somewhat swaying me to purchase one atm.

But this particular issue must be the most hassle you've received from any one part from reading your threads. Here's to hoping you fix it soon.