Jaguar F-Pace Non Runner
Discussion
stevemcs said:
I managed to record an ingenium in an Evoque today if you want it for comparison
I've heard a nice sounding one in the flesh so I know mines not right but it wouldn't hurt to hear another one. Have seen a few videos online and there's a range, I have heard plenty of ropey ones. Someone on my YouTube commented about trying some Cera Tec additive. https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/cera-tec-p000017....
I've never touched this sort of thing but I'm wondering if it's worth a go? It can't hurt (or can it?!)
I'm using this bank holiday weekend to have a crack at making the Jaguar engine quieter. The plan is to pull the engine back out and replace the cam chains, VVT actuator on the exhaust cam and fix a few oil leaks.
This is the front crank seal, slight weep from it. I had one that came in the engine gasket kit I bought last time. I didn't fit it, just decided to leave the old one in place as it required a special tool and I was sick of spending out on special tools.
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Leak from someone on the back end, I'd assume crank seal or leak on the instant gasket used to seal the timing cover. Not a huge leak.
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I'd get a bit of oil at the bottom of the sump, it looks like it's coming from the where the driveshaft runs through the sump so I'm assuming diff output seal. Again, not a huge leak.
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The stuff I've bought to fit.
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I've got a complete timing chain kit with all the sprockets. I don't think there is anything wrong with the stuff on it, there is a slight rattle sound as you back off the throttle which could potentially be chain related. The previous owner bought timing chains when he re-built the engine, at that point I was being careful with money/tight so decided not to replace them again. The thing is I don't know exactly what he bought, it could have just been the chains and guides so I've decided to replace everything just so I know it's all done. The sprockets on it now could have potentially seen the engine seize up twice. Also the tensioners are oil fed so it makes sense to replace it all.
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Front and rear crank seals along with the special tool to fit the front one.
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The VVT actuator, just a total punt that it would be noisy if it went bad based on experience with other engines. I'm probably pissing in the wind but I figure it's worth a shot. I spoke to a specialist who told me they replaced them when re-building their engines.
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The fancy bolt to fit the actuator. The manual says to replace this bolt (it says to replace practically every bolt on the car) which I didn't do last time around.
This is the front crank seal, slight weep from it. I had one that came in the engine gasket kit I bought last time. I didn't fit it, just decided to leave the old one in place as it required a special tool and I was sick of spending out on special tools.
IMG_20230506_181638102Leak from someone on the back end, I'd assume crank seal or leak on the instant gasket used to seal the timing cover. Not a huge leak.
IMG_20230506_181656337I'd get a bit of oil at the bottom of the sump, it looks like it's coming from the where the driveshaft runs through the sump so I'm assuming diff output seal. Again, not a huge leak.
IMG_20230506_181647012The stuff I've bought to fit.
IMG_20230506_165123802I've got a complete timing chain kit with all the sprockets. I don't think there is anything wrong with the stuff on it, there is a slight rattle sound as you back off the throttle which could potentially be chain related. The previous owner bought timing chains when he re-built the engine, at that point I was being careful with money/tight so decided not to replace them again. The thing is I don't know exactly what he bought, it could have just been the chains and guides so I've decided to replace everything just so I know it's all done. The sprockets on it now could have potentially seen the engine seize up twice. Also the tensioners are oil fed so it makes sense to replace it all.
IMG_20230506_165144518Front and rear crank seals along with the special tool to fit the front one.
IMG_20230506_165138961The VVT actuator, just a total punt that it would be noisy if it went bad based on experience with other engines. I'm probably pissing in the wind but I figure it's worth a shot. I spoke to a specialist who told me they replaced them when re-building their engines.
IMG_20230506_165132885The fancy bolt to fit the actuator. The manual says to replace this bolt (it says to replace practically every bolt on the car) which I didn't do last time around.
Removing the engine was much quicker the second time around, now I know all the bolt sizes and the best way to do things. I did have a bit of an issue when it came to actually pulling it out, the engine got snagged as I lifted it, ended up taking some of the weight of the car as well as the engine. The mounting point for the lifting hook snapped off the block.
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It could have been worse, engine didn't drop far and no damage. It's a bit frustrating that the torque converter got pulled off the gearbox slightly and leaked about a litre of oil into my pit. One of the reasons I decided to take the engine out rather than remove the gearbox for access to the chains was so I didn't need to mess about filling the gearbox oil up (it's going to need to have the level measured at a certain temperature after a certain process of shifting gears)
I made a bit of a mess.
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It's out, ready for the chains in the morning, shouldn't take long to do it and put it back in the car.
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IMG_20230507_171445077IMG_20230507_171450920_HDRIt could have been worse, engine didn't drop far and no damage. It's a bit frustrating that the torque converter got pulled off the gearbox slightly and leaked about a litre of oil into my pit. One of the reasons I decided to take the engine out rather than remove the gearbox for access to the chains was so I didn't need to mess about filling the gearbox oil up (it's going to need to have the level measured at a certain temperature after a certain process of shifting gears)
I made a bit of a mess.
IMG_20230507_175939754IMG_20230507_175957362It's out, ready for the chains in the morning, shouldn't take long to do it and put it back in the car.
IMG_20230507_180006383_HDRReplacing the chains hasn't proved to be the straight forward job I was expecting although this might be a good thing. I removed the inlet cam sprocket to change it over and noticed it wasn't going to fit. The old sprocket had a dowel in it, the new one didn't. I was scratching my nuts wondering what's going on.
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Looking at the end of the camshafts, you can see the one on the right (exhaust cam) has a dowel on the end. The inlet cam has a slot in it which looks a bit ropey.
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You can also see on the inlet cam, at the 10 o'clock position there is a mark which looks like the broken original dowel.
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You can see the indent of this dowel on the sprocket, just to the right of the dowel.
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I couldn't find any pictures or videos showing the end of the camshafts to compare to, I messaged QP Online LTD, a JLR specialist someone mentioned earlier in the thread. I've got to give them a shout out, I've thrown a few questions their way and they always reply and are helpful. I've not spent any money with them. https://www.facebook.com/qponlineltd/?locale=en_GB
They confirmed what I was thinking, this is a homebrew modification. I'm assuming the last guy didn't have the right tools to hold the cams and broke the previous dowel. The dowel itself is nicely fitted, the slot in the camshaft looks a bit home brew but it's actually a perfect fit. As far as bodges go it's a decent effort.
Here's the bit I don't understand, you can see in the second photo the cams are held in position with a tool so they are in the right place. There's flats on the sides, the inlet cam is a bit rounded and chewed up, someone has had a spanner on it probably but the position it's held in is right. The home brew dowel is fitted in the same position on the sprocket as the hole on the new sprocket so they line up. If I place the new sprocket to line up with the broken dowel on the camshaft, the coloured chain links won't line up. They do line up with the home brew sprocket fitted. The only thing I can come up with to explain this away is the section of the camshaft that lines up with the tool has shifted. I think everything on the cam, including the lobes are interference fit rather than machined from one piece so it's possible. Maybe a big spanner on the flats of the camshaft and a bar on the bolt holding it in, the flats moved first. I note that to remove the sprocket, you don't hold the cam by these flats, there is another tool with pins that slides into the holes on the sprockets to hold it.
The plastic chain guide that's right after this sprocket had a crack in it already. I guess related to this gear modification either leaving the chain too tight or slack after the gear.
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I hadn't removed this sprocket the first time around so didn't discover any of this. It's a pretty crazy find, who'd do that rather than just change the camshaft?
Looks like a good example of not investing in the right tools breaking stuff and making a mess of everything.
Since I took the engine out on a pretty rudderless expedition I do think finding this is probably good news. I'm more hopeful of noticing a difference when it goes back together now although I'm still not holding my breath.
IMG_20230508_150701376Looking at the end of the camshafts, you can see the one on the right (exhaust cam) has a dowel on the end. The inlet cam has a slot in it which looks a bit ropey.
IMG_20230508_161244261_HDRYou can also see on the inlet cam, at the 10 o'clock position there is a mark which looks like the broken original dowel.
IMG_20230508_161251480You can see the indent of this dowel on the sprocket, just to the right of the dowel.
received_557817946422543I couldn't find any pictures or videos showing the end of the camshafts to compare to, I messaged QP Online LTD, a JLR specialist someone mentioned earlier in the thread. I've got to give them a shout out, I've thrown a few questions their way and they always reply and are helpful. I've not spent any money with them. https://www.facebook.com/qponlineltd/?locale=en_GB
They confirmed what I was thinking, this is a homebrew modification. I'm assuming the last guy didn't have the right tools to hold the cams and broke the previous dowel. The dowel itself is nicely fitted, the slot in the camshaft looks a bit home brew but it's actually a perfect fit. As far as bodges go it's a decent effort.
Here's the bit I don't understand, you can see in the second photo the cams are held in position with a tool so they are in the right place. There's flats on the sides, the inlet cam is a bit rounded and chewed up, someone has had a spanner on it probably but the position it's held in is right. The home brew dowel is fitted in the same position on the sprocket as the hole on the new sprocket so they line up. If I place the new sprocket to line up with the broken dowel on the camshaft, the coloured chain links won't line up. They do line up with the home brew sprocket fitted. The only thing I can come up with to explain this away is the section of the camshaft that lines up with the tool has shifted. I think everything on the cam, including the lobes are interference fit rather than machined from one piece so it's possible. Maybe a big spanner on the flats of the camshaft and a bar on the bolt holding it in, the flats moved first. I note that to remove the sprocket, you don't hold the cam by these flats, there is another tool with pins that slides into the holes on the sprockets to hold it.
The plastic chain guide that's right after this sprocket had a crack in it already. I guess related to this gear modification either leaving the chain too tight or slack after the gear.
IMG_20230508_165331375I hadn't removed this sprocket the first time around so didn't discover any of this. It's a pretty crazy find, who'd do that rather than just change the camshaft?
Looks like a good example of not investing in the right tools breaking stuff and making a mess of everything.
Since I took the engine out on a pretty rudderless expedition I do think finding this is probably good news. I'm more hopeful of noticing a difference when it goes back together now although I'm still not holding my breath.
Edited by Escy on Monday 8th May 18:05
Mikebentley said:
The previous owner was a real bodger.
I can't argue with that. bgunn said:
f
k me, what a of a previous owner.
Reminds me of a tt I bought an MGF VVC off of, years ago. He proudly stated he'd done a 'proper job' of replacing the head gasket, etc. It was a very good price, and the condition of the car was pretty seductive, but the engine was a little 'off'. Not one (of the three) cams were in time, and the two VVC units were out of sync with the control mechanism.
I sent him an email afterwards with detailed pics, imploring him to never, ever, touch a mechanical thing again.
Fair play for sticking with it. One thing, you need to paint your garage. The walls are filthy and it makes it look depressing. Otherwise, nice
It's a strange one really, it's a fairly complicated engine, it's not like rebuilding an old Pinto or something so the fact he re-built it and got it running shows he was fairly capable. I don't know why he didn't buy the correct tools for the job. Making a new dowel and cutting a slot into the camshaft and having a perfect fit in what they thought was the right place is fairly impressive work but on the other side, WTF is he thinking? Just buy a camshaft. He'd spent thousands on the turbo and machine work at this point. k me, what a of a previous owner.Reminds me of a t
t I bought an MGF VVC off of, years ago. He proudly stated he'd done a 'proper job' of replacing the head gasket, etc. It was a very good price, and the condition of the car was pretty seductive, but the engine was a little 'off'. Not one (of the three) cams were in time, and the two VVC units were out of sync with the control mechanism.I sent him an email afterwards with detailed pics, imploring him to never, ever, touch a mechanical thing again.
Fair play for sticking with it. One thing, you need to paint your garage. The walls are filthy and it makes it look depressing. Otherwise, nice
The garage is looking a bit grim, hopefully I'll get a chance to tidy it up in the summer.
Ste372 said:
I don't know if you know this but salvage rebuild UK run a YouTube channel, they had a Evoque I think it was. One of the camshaft bolts comes loose, I'm sure the lobes spun on the actual cam its self. Maybe this has done the same and that's where the noise is coming from?
I have watched it (re-watched it earlier while trying to make sense of what I was seeing on my engine). They had a theory it had shifted a lobe but I think the bolt simply came lose and broke the dowel pin. They put a new pin in it, put it back together and got a specialist to do the chains. My bolt didn't come lose, it was tight as fk, practically glued in place with loads of thread lock. The dowel pin must have broken from them not have the correct tools when the removed the bolt. I ordered an inlet cam from Callum who has an F-Pace thread in general gassing section. He had a bottom end knock and ended up buying a used replacement. He sent me the exhaust cam by mistake. My exhaust camshaft had a scratch on a lobe so I kept it and bought the inlet cam from him also. This put me back a few days so this weekend was when I'd finish it off.
The scratched lobe from my old cam.
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The new cams (on the pink rag). The inlet cam has the sprocket on it still.
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The bolt that holds it was chewed up, a socket was going to slip off.
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Picked up a socket in B&Q for £1.50 and welded it on. I'm taking no chances
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The inlet cams lined up so the flat sections that would be held in the tool are in the same position. You can see the dowel (snapped on the old cam) is in a different place, I can only conclude that using the flat section to hold the cam while removing the bolt for the sprocket has shifted it. JLR wouldn't have a separate tool to hold the cam via the sprocket if you could just hold it with the one in the picture bellow. The previous owner was a total bell for working on this engine without the right tools. You don't need to undo this sprocket to put the chains on so I never spotted his fk up the first time around. I reckon you could strip 1000 engines and not find a bodge like this. The cam sprocket has the mark in the right place (links on the chain match up) but it's actually a tooth off.
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Special tool for replacing the front crank seal. I should have done this the first time but I'd spent a fortune on tools. Lesson learnt.
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I bought a diff seal, didn't actually need to replace it but thought I would as I had it. Put some screws into it to pull it out, then opened the pack for the new one and it was a different size. I need to pay more attention to the replacement parts before I muller the original ones, did the same on the centre caps for my Boxster's alloy wheels a week ago. JLR supplied me with a rear diff seal, not the front. This happened Saturday morning. Luckily the Newport branch had the one I needed so it didn't ruin my weekend.
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The engine ready to go back in.
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It all went back in fine, I know what I'm doing now. Good news is it sounds way better now. I think most of the noise was the exhaust leaking on the turbo to DPF join. The engine runs slightly better although it did feel fine before. It just sounds like a normal diesel now rather than a loud one. I've taken the long route to getting it sorted, having had to have the engine out twice. In hindsight I should have changed the VVT actuator and the chains the first time around. I was haemorrhaging money at the time and didn't know if my re-build was going to be alright which is why I didn't. This latest round of work has cost me £750. That brings me up to 12k now. Still a few grand cheaper than you can buy one for and I feel like I'm in a good place with it now. New turbo and re-built engine, it should be reliable (famous last words). I'm in it for more than I expected when I bought it but I'm happy, it's a lot of car for the money.
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The scratched lobe from my old cam.
IMG_20230512_160815105The new cams (on the pink rag). The inlet cam has the sprocket on it still.
IMG_20230512_144822642The bolt that holds it was chewed up, a socket was going to slip off.
IMG_20230512_160748147Picked up a socket in B&Q for £1.50 and welded it on. I'm taking no chances
IMG_20230512_164246244IMG_20230512_164709184The inlet cams lined up so the flat sections that would be held in the tool are in the same position. You can see the dowel (snapped on the old cam) is in a different place, I can only conclude that using the flat section to hold the cam while removing the bolt for the sprocket has shifted it. JLR wouldn't have a separate tool to hold the cam via the sprocket if you could just hold it with the one in the picture bellow. The previous owner was a total bell for working on this engine without the right tools. You don't need to undo this sprocket to put the chains on so I never spotted his f
k up the first time around. I reckon you could strip 1000 engines and not find a bodge like this. The cam sprocket has the mark in the right place (links on the chain match up) but it's actually a tooth off. IMG_20230512_165736515IMG_20230512_165746145Special tool for replacing the front crank seal. I should have done this the first time but I'd spent a fortune on tools. Lesson learnt.
IMG_20230512_202946851IMG_20230512_202952945I bought a diff seal, didn't actually need to replace it but thought I would as I had it. Put some screws into it to pull it out, then opened the pack for the new one and it was a different size. I need to pay more attention to the replacement parts before I muller the original ones, did the same on the centre caps for my Boxster's alloy wheels a week ago. JLR supplied me with a rear diff seal, not the front. This happened Saturday morning. Luckily the Newport branch had the one I needed so it didn't ruin my weekend.
IMG_20230513_091737317The engine ready to go back in.
IMG_20230513_113108973_HDRIt all went back in fine, I know what I'm doing now. Good news is it sounds way better now. I think most of the noise was the exhaust leaking on the turbo to DPF join. The engine runs slightly better although it did feel fine before. It just sounds like a normal diesel now rather than a loud one. I've taken the long route to getting it sorted, having had to have the engine out twice. In hindsight I should have changed the VVT actuator and the chains the first time around. I was haemorrhaging money at the time and didn't know if my re-build was going to be alright which is why I didn't. This latest round of work has cost me £750. That brings me up to 12k now. Still a few grand cheaper than you can buy one for and I feel like I'm in a good place with it now. New turbo and re-built engine, it should be reliable (famous last words). I'm in it for more than I expected when I bought it but I'm happy, it's a lot of car for the money.
IMG_20230514_165832943IMG_20230514_165843212IMG_20230514_165855179Megaflow said:
I wonder how much of the noise was from the valve timing being out very slightly
I think it contributed, I had noticed a bit of noise which I thought might be chain rattle on the overrun. It must have had a bit more slack than it should have after the sprocket as the guide next to it was showing some wear. Arnold Cunningham said:
Based on what you now know about the innerds of these cars - would you buy one? Some of the pics you showed earlier (valves hitting the head casting), I wasn't sure if this was from the factory, or the previous owner's screw ups?
I'm not sure on the valve springs touching the head casting, the previous owner did change a few valves so maybe they had them all out and messed something up. That said, what is there to mess up? Could by an issue from the factory. As a car, I'm quite impressed. It's younger than the other stuff I've owned but it's on 120k. The interior has held up really well compared to VAG stuff I've had. No issues with any other aspect of car apart from the engine. The front subframe has surface rust, give it another 5 years and it might be a problem.
I really like it. The design, the way it drives, etc. Obviously, if I'd paid 20k for it then needed to spend 5k plus on a replacement engine I'd be fuming so I can see where the bad reputation comes from. I think it's probably one of those cars where you'd want a warranty.
I'm sure a small horse box would be easy enough. I hadn't really considered towing with this. The towing I do is collecting cars, it's rated for 2400kg so not too bad, it would give me decent scope but I don't know how a 2.0 diesel would be up to the job. It strikes me as a small engine to lug around a big car as it is without loading it up. Mine has been re-mapped so should be about 215bhp, and 500nm of torque. It feels decent on the road, you'd expect a 2.0 diesel to feel flat in a big car like this but it goes quite well, it's got decent torque low down, defiantly doesn't feel underpowered. I'm sure the 8 speed gearbox helps.
I've been spoilt towing with a 385bhp Cayenne, I'd forget there was a trailer on the back of it. The Jaguar will probably struggle a bit, add in the fact the 2.0 diesel wouldn't be described as a reliable workhorse unit. It might be asking for problems. If anyone has towed with one I'd like to hear how it is.
I've spotted a non running Fiat Punto Abarth that I fancy. It's quite far from me, I've been quoted £350 to get it collected (which puts me off). I could get it for £100 fuel and £50 to hire a trailer if I had a tow bar on the Jag.
I've been spoilt towing with a 385bhp Cayenne, I'd forget there was a trailer on the back of it. The Jaguar will probably struggle a bit, add in the fact the 2.0 diesel wouldn't be described as a reliable workhorse unit. It might be asking for problems. If anyone has towed with one I'd like to hear how it is.
I've spotted a non running Fiat Punto Abarth that I fancy. It's quite far from me, I've been quoted £350 to get it collected (which puts me off). I could get it for £100 fuel and £50 to hire a trailer if I had a tow bar on the Jag.
kev b said:
With the benefit of hindsight it was a shame you didn’t ask the previous owner where he sourced all the special tools he used to strip and rebuild the engine.
“I just used a large adjustable spanner and a hammer and chisel” may have been a red flag!
So pleased you’ve got it running properly, alls well that ends well.
I did ask him about the special tools when I first went to see it as I wanted to buy them. He informed me he didn't need them. The evidence suggests he did need them. It was just another red flag I ignored.“I just used a large adjustable spanner and a hammer and chisel” may have been a red flag!
So pleased you’ve got it running properly, alls well that ends well.
The cams were pretty much the only part of the engine that was original and even they ended up needing replacement in the end. If I'd known at the time I need to add cams, VVT actuator and a chain kit to my original part list, I'd definitely have not committed to rebulding the engine.
That said its a known quantity now rather than a used replacement which would have been an expensive roll of the dice.
I've been told this thread has 306k views which is crazy considering it's nothing special.
OldSkoolRS said:
I've just read pretty much from start to finish (bar skimming some WBAC stuff ). Glad to see today's post was just a minor cosmetic issue and won't need engine out a third time, unless you're really bored this weekend Escy. 
Really enjoyed reading all the twists and turns. I smiled at the mention of a Pinto engine being something easy to strip and rebuild as that's a job I'll be doing at some point on my project car having not run it for maybe 10 years (and off the road for 25 now
). I hope it gives you good service from now on.
Thanks. Get stuck into that Pinto! ). Glad to see today's post was just a minor cosmetic issue and won't need engine out a third time, unless you're really bored this weekend Escy. Really enjoyed reading all the twists and turns. I smiled at the mention of a Pinto engine being something easy to strip and rebuild as that's a job I'll be doing at some point on my project car having not run it for maybe 10 years (and off the road for 25 now
). I hope it gives you good service from now on. A.J.M said:
Glad my suggestion for QP online has been worthwhile for you.
Shame about the styling upgrade from the wife though but that’s easily fixed.
I wouldn’t be leaving oil for longer than a year/10k whatever is reached first.
Personally when we get a disco sport for Mrs A.J.M, I’ll be buying a vacuum pump for doing the oil changes every 10k on it.
Agreed on the oil servicing schedule. A mate is looking for an Evoque with the same engine, saw one that was 2019, first service 27k miles in 2022. I told him to swerve that. I'd personally avoid one that had the manufacturers recommend 20k / 2 years servicing. When you see videos on YouTube with the chains being replaced, more often than not they are caked in crud which is due to infrequent oil changes.Shame about the styling upgrade from the wife though but that’s easily fixed.
I wouldn’t be leaving oil for longer than a year/10k whatever is reached first.
Personally when we get a disco sport for Mrs A.J.M, I’ll be buying a vacuum pump for doing the oil changes every 10k on it.
martynr said:
You have done a grand job and should be proud of youself! 
Thanks. I think the majority of the interest was that it provided a good chance to put the boot into JLR! I'm really pleased with how it's turned out. I'm happy I rebuilt the original engine (I'll revise this statement when it goes bang),it feels like an accomplishment compared to chucking in a used engine. Especially as things were looking a bit bleak at one point, barely anything serviceable left on it. I did however end up spending more than I expected so I lost that battle.
Luke. said:
How do you see the view count?
I was told by Ben (PH staff), he emailed about attending the Readers' Ride section of the PH25 show later this year, he mentioned how popular the Jag thread had been and jokingly asked what car I'd like to take. Imagine going to the show and there's a bog standard 130k mile F-Pace with a load of scratches on the front bumper sat in-between a GT40 and a Ferrari, that would take some explaining. I could leave it idling all day and everyone can wince as they walk by and hear it clattering away.
Pent said:
no news is good new right ?
Pretty much, I think it's still sounding a bit rough but it's running perfectly fine. Done about 3k in it. It's brilliant with the radio turned up. I've not managed to get the A/C working, I had it gassed a few months ago but it didn't work. I had no decent diagnostics for the Jaguar. I decided it was time to invest in something half serious as I'm sick of cheap units where they don't do half of what they claim and I usually end up buying manufacturer specific stuff which works out expensive if you end up having loads of different cars. I find diagnostic scanners a difficult tool to buy, however much you spend, if you plug it in and it doesn't do what you need, you'd wish you spent more.
I went for an Otofix D1 Pro (basically Autel). I'm impressed with it so far. In terms of coding it seems to do as much on my Porsche as the dealer level PIWIS I have. I've also used it to re-calibrate the sun roof on the Jag that got stuck closing a couple of times.
They are no fault codes on the HVAC, I could run some output tests, I couldn't hear anything happening on the compressor (it's PWM but I'd expect a click with 100% duty cycle).
Based off that I've replaced the compressor (with a used unit). Unfortunately it failed the pressue test when I took it for gassing. I assume that's the O-rings are leaking on the lines that were removed. I'll change them and try again.
Edited by Escy on Friday 4th August 20:46
M3333 said:
A friend of mine had exactly the same problem a few years ago with the aircon on an e92 BMW. It turned out to be the control panel not coded to the car properly!
Thanks, I'll keep this in mind if it's still the same once the gas goes back in.Xenoous said:
One of the PH epic reads, even with the WBAC/DPF idiots.
Honestly OP, I can't believe I never followed this from when you started it months back, but I've binged it over the last couple of nights and felt so much woe, then joy, then woe, then joy! What a brilliant roller-coaster, and thank you so much for documenting it all. I'm not anywhere near your level of knowhow, so I felt like I learned plenty along the way to boot.
Gold stars for you, and I hope the Jag gives you and your wife many years of trouble free motoring. Looking forward to your next project, in the mean time I think I'll go off and find that Boxster thread.
Thank you. It's a big investment of your time to decide to start reading a long thread like this from the start so I'm glad you thought it was worthwhile. Honestly OP, I can't believe I never followed this from when you started it months back, but I've binged it over the last couple of nights and felt so much woe, then joy, then woe, then joy! What a brilliant roller-coaster, and thank you so much for documenting it all. I'm not anywhere near your level of knowhow, so I felt like I learned plenty along the way to boot.
Gold stars for you, and I hope the Jag gives you and your wife many years of trouble free motoring. Looking forward to your next project, in the mean time I think I'll go off and find that Boxster thread.
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