147 GTA progress thread (July 2013 to present)
Discussion
Tmrtom said:
Another of my favourite cars on pistonheads! Guessing you're keeping it then? I think I'd struggle to ever sell a car like that, even if it wasn't used all that much.
Thanks.It's still for sale but I don't think now is the right time to find a buyer... Fortunately I'm not under any pressure to sell it.
Bright Halo said:
Great work again.
Looking very nice after the polish.
Yup, really pleased with it. Just need to clean the rest of it...Looking very nice after the polish.
This has been annoying me slightly, my Dad more so;
IMG_4243 by Chris, on Flickr
Its never fitted properly and was held down with some sticky-ish glue. But that hasn't' held in the sun, causing it to lift.
However, the root problem was that the fixing screw went into a hole in the base of the switch and that had broken. A previous Owner / Numpty had overtightened the screw, breaking the bracket. My Dad ha jerry-rigged a repair;
IMG_4244 by Chris, on Flickr
But it never really fitted properly.
Solution? New switch gear. Which, again, my Dad refurbed using some rubberised 3M paint I found a while back after it was mentioned on the SportsMaser forum;
IMG_4247 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4248 by Chris, on Flickr
Moving on, here is a particularly s
t photo of the standard fuse box/obd port cover.
IMG_4250-2 by Chris, on Flickr
I found 3 later model covers (facelift, non GTA) for sale that include a neat little cubby hole and took a chance that they were the same colour and shape as the original. It fitted;
IMG_4253 by Chris, on Flickr
Really pleased with that little mod....
IMG_4243 by Chris, on FlickrIts never fitted properly and was held down with some sticky-ish glue. But that hasn't' held in the sun, causing it to lift.
However, the root problem was that the fixing screw went into a hole in the base of the switch and that had broken. A previous Owner / Numpty had overtightened the screw, breaking the bracket. My Dad ha jerry-rigged a repair;
IMG_4244 by Chris, on FlickrBut it never really fitted properly.
Solution? New switch gear. Which, again, my Dad refurbed using some rubberised 3M paint I found a while back after it was mentioned on the SportsMaser forum;
IMG_4247 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4248 by Chris, on FlickrMoving on, here is a particularly s
t photo of the standard fuse box/obd port cover.IMG_4250-2 by Chris, on FlickrI found 3 later model covers (facelift, non GTA) for sale that include a neat little cubby hole and took a chance that they were the same colour and shape as the original. It fitted;
IMG_4253 by Chris, on FlickrReally pleased with that little mod....
More new bits. This time the stiffening plates that are bolted to the underside of the car between the subframe and the front section of the floor.
The old parts are in relatively good shape, having been cleaned up and repainted but, well, the replacements are brand new...
IMG_4484 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4482 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4480 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4472 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4477 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4478 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4479 by Chris, on Flickr
(New fastenings too...)
The old parts are in relatively good shape, having been cleaned up and repainted but, well, the replacements are brand new...
IMG_4484 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4482 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4480 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4472 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4477 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4478 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4479 by Chris, on Flickr(New fastenings too...)
Edited by Zombie on Saturday 10th October 23:04
Moving on, after working on the rear brakes of my daily drive;
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
My Dad's attention became focused on the GTA's rear brakes, which while they work fine, are looking a little scabby;
IMG_4475 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4473 by Chris, on Flickr
(The front callipers are virtually like new, having been upgraded to the larger 330mm discs and callipers)
Problem is, the new Callipers just came, as expected, with a passivate coating rather than being painted red like the standard callipers.
However, we have a set of 4 pot Mito callipers bought for another project which are the right colour. My Dad took these down to a local bodyshop and they were able to identify a RAL colour that closely matches the OEM colour, which he had mixed up in a rattle can;
IMG_4435 by Chris, on Flickr
In addition to the callipers the hangers also need refurishing. Rather than mess about with the ones fitted to the car, which would have meant it being up on axle stands for a while, my Dad chose to refurbish a spare set, which were in better condition than the ones on the car to begin with;
Etch primed;
IMG_4436 by Chris, on Flickr
Under coat;
IMG_4443 by Chris, on Flickr
Colour match compared with the Mito callipers is good;
IMG_4440 by Chris, on Flickr
Painted, laqured and rebuilt with other new bits and bobs - slider pins etc
IMG_4504 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4506 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_4507 by Chris, on Flickr
There's a new set of genuine Alfa discs and pads to match but this is as far as we're going togo with it. The car is now off the road for the winter, so there's no point fitting them as they could seize through a lack of use in the meanwhile.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
My Dad's attention became focused on the GTA's rear brakes, which while they work fine, are looking a little scabby;
IMG_4475 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4473 by Chris, on Flickr(The front callipers are virtually like new, having been upgraded to the larger 330mm discs and callipers)
Problem is, the new Callipers just came, as expected, with a passivate coating rather than being painted red like the standard callipers.
However, we have a set of 4 pot Mito callipers bought for another project which are the right colour. My Dad took these down to a local bodyshop and they were able to identify a RAL colour that closely matches the OEM colour, which he had mixed up in a rattle can;
IMG_4435 by Chris, on FlickrIn addition to the callipers the hangers also need refurishing. Rather than mess about with the ones fitted to the car, which would have meant it being up on axle stands for a while, my Dad chose to refurbish a spare set, which were in better condition than the ones on the car to begin with;
Etch primed;
IMG_4436 by Chris, on FlickrUnder coat;
IMG_4443 by Chris, on FlickrColour match compared with the Mito callipers is good;
IMG_4440 by Chris, on FlickrPainted, laqured and rebuilt with other new bits and bobs - slider pins etc
IMG_4504 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4506 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_4507 by Chris, on FlickrThere's a new set of genuine Alfa discs and pads to match but this is as far as we're going togo with it. The car is now off the road for the winter, so there's no point fitting them as they could seize through a lack of use in the meanwhile.
rxe said:
Did you find the original 16mm across flat bolts for the plates? I just bunged in 17 mm AF ones when I did mine!
I think they're 17mm but the same grade of bolt.ETA, there's some useful information about this here;
https://thomsonrail.com/metric-nuts-and-bolts/
Edited by Zombie on Saturday 10th October 23:57
Thread update. I don't have anything to report on the GTA per se as it's been sat in my car port over the winter. I've started it occasionally and kept it clean, but that's about it.
However, anyone who knows about GTA's (147 / 156 / GT 3.2) knows that the engine ECU can fail. Finding a replacement is not easy, nor cheap. I was fortunate in that when the original ECU failed a few years ago, I had a replacement in the form of a 156 GTA Selespeed ECU that I acquired in 2006 and had sat on a shelf since then.
Despite a well known specialist saying that a 156 ECU will not work with a 147, referencing "different internal strategies", Autolusso were able to both flash the ECU to work with my 147 and virginise it. (Thank you Ned!).
Whilst I am confident that the ECU will now last the remainder of the car's life, I was left with a broken ECU and people have been able to repair them.
I didn't fancy spending £250+ on a repair that may or may not work though, so I decided to have a crack at it myself.
IMG_1190 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1192 by Chris, on Flickr
I carefully pried the back off using a sharp knife to cut through the silicone sealant and some pry tools for taking phones apart;
IMG_1194 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1196 by Chris, on Flickr
The back eventually "fell" off revealing the ECU internals. The chip off to the side is apparently a capacitor which lives on the area of the circuit board that I've circled. I didn't find it like this, but it was loose.
And this is the standard problem. When it does loose adhesion (it's glued on) it creates a problem where the (fly-by-wire) throttle body chatters constantly and in time with the key code (immobiliser) light. And whilst the car will crank, it will not start.
There is a get you home trick though - if you disconnect the throttle body it will start and idle. The engine has more than enough torque at idle to keep the car moving.
So much so that when I first start it I can drive it out of the culdesac and village I live in without touching the throttle once - It'll do close to 30mph with a fast idle in 6th. This is just one of those small things that I love about it. It also helps as it does have a noisy exhaust on it but no-one can complain, in my mind at least as I drive it away and into the village on idle...
Anyway, back to the ECU;
IMG_1197 by Chris, on Flickr
Which is definitely broken. A replacement chip is cheap enough, I ordered a bunch from RS, the postage cost more than the chips.
The accepted method of repairing the ECU is to solder the chip to the board where is was previously glued on. I lack both the equipment and the expertise to do this, which is why people charge 250 quid to repair them, I guess.
Before I had taken it apart I was aware of all of this and I had decided to try and re-fix the cheap using conductive glue, which I think I found on eBay for about £10.
IMG_1198 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1201 by Chris, on Flickr
As you might expect, I wasn't confident this would work but I tried it on the car and, yup. It didn't. This was characterised by the aforementioned chattering from the throttle body and flashing dashboard lights.
But, rather than give up, I had a chat about it with my Dad (who did a degree in electronics, some time ago) and we elected to take it to a TV repair guy that is local to us.
Whilst I had just taken the ECU to him for a cursory look after giving it to him, he appeared 10mins later and said he had gone ahead and soldered it on.
For a Fiver.
(I paid him more than that)
IMG_1303 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1303 by Chris, on Flickr
IMG_1302 by Chris, on Flickr
We tried it on the car with a little more optimism but with a realistic expectation it wouldn't work. But, it appears that it is actually repaired. The throttle body no longer chatters nor do the lights flash. It was, however complaining about the immobiliser.
I assume that this is because whilst it is the original ECU, the car is coded to the replacement. To test it properly, I'd need to virginise it and fit it. I'd also have to do the same to existing ECU if I wanted to put that back on the car rather than keep the repaired ECU. Which is not something I'm willing to risk.
I wasn't content with this though, so I've bought a KESS rip off and I'm in the process of resurrecting an old lap top to run it. I also have a similar ECU from a twin spark 147 to test it on.
However, anyone who knows about GTA's (147 / 156 / GT 3.2) knows that the engine ECU can fail. Finding a replacement is not easy, nor cheap. I was fortunate in that when the original ECU failed a few years ago, I had a replacement in the form of a 156 GTA Selespeed ECU that I acquired in 2006 and had sat on a shelf since then.
Despite a well known specialist saying that a 156 ECU will not work with a 147, referencing "different internal strategies", Autolusso were able to both flash the ECU to work with my 147 and virginise it. (Thank you Ned!).
Whilst I am confident that the ECU will now last the remainder of the car's life, I was left with a broken ECU and people have been able to repair them.
I didn't fancy spending £250+ on a repair that may or may not work though, so I decided to have a crack at it myself.
IMG_1190 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1192 by Chris, on FlickrI carefully pried the back off using a sharp knife to cut through the silicone sealant and some pry tools for taking phones apart;
IMG_1194 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1196 by Chris, on FlickrThe back eventually "fell" off revealing the ECU internals. The chip off to the side is apparently a capacitor which lives on the area of the circuit board that I've circled. I didn't find it like this, but it was loose.
And this is the standard problem. When it does loose adhesion (it's glued on) it creates a problem where the (fly-by-wire) throttle body chatters constantly and in time with the key code (immobiliser) light. And whilst the car will crank, it will not start.
There is a get you home trick though - if you disconnect the throttle body it will start and idle. The engine has more than enough torque at idle to keep the car moving.
So much so that when I first start it I can drive it out of the culdesac and village I live in without touching the throttle once - It'll do close to 30mph with a fast idle in 6th. This is just one of those small things that I love about it. It also helps as it does have a noisy exhaust on it but no-one can complain, in my mind at least as I drive it away and into the village on idle...
Anyway, back to the ECU;
IMG_1197 by Chris, on FlickrWhich is definitely broken. A replacement chip is cheap enough, I ordered a bunch from RS, the postage cost more than the chips.
The accepted method of repairing the ECU is to solder the chip to the board where is was previously glued on. I lack both the equipment and the expertise to do this, which is why people charge 250 quid to repair them, I guess.
Before I had taken it apart I was aware of all of this and I had decided to try and re-fix the cheap using conductive glue, which I think I found on eBay for about £10.
IMG_1198 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1201 by Chris, on FlickrAs you might expect, I wasn't confident this would work but I tried it on the car and, yup. It didn't. This was characterised by the aforementioned chattering from the throttle body and flashing dashboard lights.
But, rather than give up, I had a chat about it with my Dad (who did a degree in electronics, some time ago) and we elected to take it to a TV repair guy that is local to us.
Whilst I had just taken the ECU to him for a cursory look after giving it to him, he appeared 10mins later and said he had gone ahead and soldered it on.
For a Fiver.
(I paid him more than that)IMG_1303 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1303 by Chris, on FlickrIMG_1302 by Chris, on FlickrWe tried it on the car with a little more optimism but with a realistic expectation it wouldn't work. But, it appears that it is actually repaired. The throttle body no longer chatters nor do the lights flash. It was, however complaining about the immobiliser.
I assume that this is because whilst it is the original ECU, the car is coded to the replacement. To test it properly, I'd need to virginise it and fit it. I'd also have to do the same to existing ECU if I wanted to put that back on the car rather than keep the repaired ECU. Which is not something I'm willing to risk.
I wasn't content with this though, so I've bought a KESS rip off and I'm in the process of resurrecting an old lap top to run it. I also have a similar ECU from a twin spark 147 to test it on.
I managed to find a new one for mine (well, 2015 manufacture which was the last run) a couple of years ago. I took the original one off - it hadn't yet failed and fitted the new one to provide some peace of mind as I was dailying the car at the time. I sold the original one for £800. I'm sure they're fetching more now.
The specialist I was using was saying he had enquired, via a contact, direct with Bosch about another production run but they wanted a minimum order of 500.
The car's looking lovely BTW
The specialist I was using was saying he had enquired, via a contact, direct with Bosch about another production run but they wanted a minimum order of 500.
The car's looking lovely BTW
Looks like I owe an update...
After the ECU looked like it had been repaired, I bought some knock-off hardware that can be used to remap / viginise ECUs and set about learning how to use it on another spare ECU from a 147 2.0ts;
I was able to pull the raw data from the ecu without any issues;
But that's about it. I was working with an ancient laptop (software isn't compatible with Mac) that is glacier like in it's processing power and I kind of put it to one side. Where it has remained.
I had the opportunity to try some spacers on it. 15mm IIRC. I've seen a number of people on the social medias posting about this, usually in conjunction with some Maxton splitters and skirts.
Before;
(Yes, I used longer wheel bolts)
I wasn't convinced in terms of the way it looked. It was OK from the front but the back end looked odd. With such a short rear overhang, the rear tyres looked narrower, probably because more of the tyre was visible.
I know the drivers in the 750 Motor Club Alfa Romeo Championship use spacers but this is conjunction with shortened, re-valved dampers as well as the 15" wheels dictated by the class rules. TBH, I didn't notice much in the way of any handling benefit.
What I did notice was that the wheels, which are wider than standard - 8" rather than 7.5" were catching the rear arches though, so I removed the spacers after the test.
Apart from some prep work, this is all I've done with it up to August this year.
However we did have a growing list of jobs to do which I'll discuss in my next post.
After the ECU looked like it had been repaired, I bought some knock-off hardware that can be used to remap / viginise ECUs and set about learning how to use it on another spare ECU from a 147 2.0ts;
I was able to pull the raw data from the ecu without any issues;
But that's about it. I was working with an ancient laptop (software isn't compatible with Mac) that is glacier like in it's processing power and I kind of put it to one side. Where it has remained.
I had the opportunity to try some spacers on it. 15mm IIRC. I've seen a number of people on the social medias posting about this, usually in conjunction with some Maxton splitters and skirts.
Before;
(Yes, I used longer wheel bolts)
I wasn't convinced in terms of the way it looked. It was OK from the front but the back end looked odd. With such a short rear overhang, the rear tyres looked narrower, probably because more of the tyre was visible.
I know the drivers in the 750 Motor Club Alfa Romeo Championship use spacers but this is conjunction with shortened, re-valved dampers as well as the 15" wheels dictated by the class rules. TBH, I didn't notice much in the way of any handling benefit.
What I did notice was that the wheels, which are wider than standard - 8" rather than 7.5" were catching the rear arches though, so I removed the spacers after the test.
Apart from some prep work, this is all I've done with it up to August this year.
However we did have a growing list of jobs to do which I'll discuss in my next post.
1st Job on the list, yes I made an actual list)...
Rear brake calipers...
The condition of the (Black Diamond) braided hoses was disappointing. They were a right pita to remove from the caliper. They're not that old and I've not used the car in the wet / winter for the last 6 years.
I plan on replacing all 4 of them at some point in the future.
To recap, these are brand new callipers that have been painstakingly painted in as close to the correct red as could be found (by my Dad) earlier in the year;
The main interior light is shared with the Giulietta, but it was revised to include some red led night lighting. The additional lights need an extra additional power source, but this is prewired in all the cars we've done this on - facelift 156, my 147 and a GT. Albeit it does require the connector snipping off and a replacement soldering back on. This came with the light as to be expected of an electrical part sourced from a breaker;
Rear brake calipers...
The condition of the (Black Diamond) braided hoses was disappointing. They were a right pita to remove from the caliper. They're not that old and I've not used the car in the wet / winter for the last 6 years.
I plan on replacing all 4 of them at some point in the future.
To recap, these are brand new callipers that have been painstakingly painted in as close to the correct red as could be found (by my Dad) earlier in the year;
The main interior light is shared with the Giulietta, but it was revised to include some red led night lighting. The additional lights need an extra additional power source, but this is prewired in all the cars we've done this on - facelift 156, my 147 and a GT. Albeit it does require the connector snipping off and a replacement soldering back on. This came with the light as to be expected of an electrical part sourced from a breaker;
Next job.
The front exhaust pipes on it were pattern replacements, bout in a hurry a while ago. One of them started leaking so we decided that it was worth replacing both with some decent quality stainless replacements. I did consider equal length pipes - been there, and they're in the shed with a hole worn though the lowest hanging section because it ground out on the road, frequently.
I also looked at, again, removing the CF3 manifolds and replacing them with CF2's with matching front pipes but it's a right faff to do, practically engine out, technically illegal and may prove to be a problem in the future if MOT testing regs are tightened on this aspect.
]
Front Bumper removed for the ext few jobs;
The first of which was to replace the wing / bumper supports. They bottom of them are prone to corrosion as the bumper and the wheel arch liner are attached to them at the base, dirt and moisture collects there and eventually nothing is left.
The ones on the car were is (relatively) good condition. My Dad had repaired them using fibreglass in the past so they were effectively rust proofed;
But, an online retailer had some brand new ones (genuine parts) for sale at a reasonable price;
Primed;
Painted body colour and clear coated;
I cleaned up the mounting points after removing the original supports;
Part in situ - the power steering rad / engine oil cooler radiators are also mounted to them;
Shiny bit fitted (behind the oil cooler);
The front exhaust pipes on it were pattern replacements, bout in a hurry a while ago. One of them started leaking so we decided that it was worth replacing both with some decent quality stainless replacements. I did consider equal length pipes - been there, and they're in the shed with a hole worn though the lowest hanging section because it ground out on the road, frequently.
I also looked at, again, removing the CF3 manifolds and replacing them with CF2's with matching front pipes but it's a right faff to do, practically engine out, technically illegal and may prove to be a problem in the future if MOT testing regs are tightened on this aspect.
]
Front Bumper removed for the ext few jobs;
The first of which was to replace the wing / bumper supports. They bottom of them are prone to corrosion as the bumper and the wheel arch liner are attached to them at the base, dirt and moisture collects there and eventually nothing is left.
The ones on the car were is (relatively) good condition. My Dad had repaired them using fibreglass in the past so they were effectively rust proofed;
But, an online retailer had some brand new ones (genuine parts) for sale at a reasonable price;
Primed;
Painted body colour and clear coated;
I cleaned up the mounting points after removing the original supports;
Part in situ - the power steering rad / engine oil cooler radiators are also mounted to them;
Shiny bit fitted (behind the oil cooler);
Edited by Zombie on Monday 27th September 22:38
Next job.
Air Con radiator / condensor.
After having the air con regassed last year, it slowly stopped working. Like most, if not all cars, the system has a pressure sensor, so if it's not seeing pressure in the system it won't work. It's easy to test for this as you just hit the air con button and listen for the loud click of the magnetic clutch on the air con compressor engaging.
For the record, last time I had it re-gassed I explained that it had leaked away. They vacuum tested it, it held up. But...
With the bumper off it's relatively easy to remove:
We checked it for leaks under a UV light;
For those that don't know, the air con coolant has 3 components, refrigerant, oil to lubricate the pump and a green UV dye, which, obviously fluoresces under such light.
I don't know if the torch I was using is the right wavelength to see this, but the rad did appear to show some signs of this. The problem is, the rad itself was also corroded and the aluminium oxide was also florescent under my light:
As a test, this was inconclusive.
We checked the rest of the system for the UV dye seeping out but there was no evidence of this. I think, if the leak is still there, it is so slight that whilst the gas can leak out, the dye which is suspended in the lubricating oil, may not.
Which is really frustrating. I hope it's fixed - new rad in place;
But I am not convinced. It's been over a month since it was re-gassed and I think the air con isn't as good as it was but the pump is still engaging.
Air Con radiator / condensor.
After having the air con regassed last year, it slowly stopped working. Like most, if not all cars, the system has a pressure sensor, so if it's not seeing pressure in the system it won't work. It's easy to test for this as you just hit the air con button and listen for the loud click of the magnetic clutch on the air con compressor engaging.
For the record, last time I had it re-gassed I explained that it had leaked away. They vacuum tested it, it held up. But...
With the bumper off it's relatively easy to remove:
We checked it for leaks under a UV light;
For those that don't know, the air con coolant has 3 components, refrigerant, oil to lubricate the pump and a green UV dye, which, obviously fluoresces under such light.
I don't know if the torch I was using is the right wavelength to see this, but the rad did appear to show some signs of this. The problem is, the rad itself was also corroded and the aluminium oxide was also florescent under my light:
As a test, this was inconclusive.
We checked the rest of the system for the UV dye seeping out but there was no evidence of this. I think, if the leak is still there, it is so slight that whilst the gas can leak out, the dye which is suspended in the lubricating oil, may not.
Which is really frustrating. I hope it's fixed - new rad in place;
But I am not convinced. It's been over a month since it was re-gassed and I think the air con isn't as good as it was but the pump is still engaging.
Enjoying the updates.
My V6 (Gtv) needs the AC to be looked at, I thought the dye method would be useful but interesting reading about your experience, might not be a simple as I thought.
Is that the Mocal replacement oil cooler in the last photo, I've got the kit from Autolusso with the rubber hoses, been maybe 5 years and no issues.
My V6 (Gtv) needs the AC to be looked at, I thought the dye method would be useful but interesting reading about your experience, might not be a simple as I thought.
Is that the Mocal replacement oil cooler in the last photo, I've got the kit from Autolusso with the rubber hoses, been maybe 5 years and no issues.
I always enjoy your updates, Zombie. I owned my GTA for 3 years but never had the time/patience/skills/balls to to get as stuck in as you have, and I think that's what's required to really keep on top of the maintenance of these cars and get the most out of them. Your car looks stunning and really belies it's mileage.
Regarding the A/C system, I would disregard the use of a vacuum test to check for system leaks. The automated machines are useless at detecting a leak in this way, and even if you pull a good vacuum yourself, you're relying on a differential pressure of 1 Bar max to show up a leak on a system which can exceed 20 Bar on the high pressure side under heavy load. The best option would be to charge the system with oxygen-free nitrogen to a decent pressure and see whether it can hold that pressure. Also, an R134a sniffer/leak detector could help in tracking a leak down.
ETA... When you're tearing the A/C system down as you are, are you replacing the desiccant in the receiver/drier and then pulling a good, strong vacuum before recharging? You need to remove any moisture from the system as this can seriously impact performance.
Regarding the A/C system, I would disregard the use of a vacuum test to check for system leaks. The automated machines are useless at detecting a leak in this way, and even if you pull a good vacuum yourself, you're relying on a differential pressure of 1 Bar max to show up a leak on a system which can exceed 20 Bar on the high pressure side under heavy load. The best option would be to charge the system with oxygen-free nitrogen to a decent pressure and see whether it can hold that pressure. Also, an R134a sniffer/leak detector could help in tracking a leak down.
ETA... When you're tearing the A/C system down as you are, are you replacing the desiccant in the receiver/drier and then pulling a good, strong vacuum before recharging? You need to remove any moisture from the system as this can seriously impact performance.
Edited by clowesy on Monday 27th September 11:44
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