Peugeot 205 XR
Discussion
The more worrying sign is after idling for a few minutes I get smoke from the manifold. I'm squeezing the lower radiator hose and it doesn't seem full of coolant. I'm concerned I've got an airlock in the coolant somewhere and its overheating.
It smokes a lot more with the choke out too
It smokes a lot more with the choke out too
PrinceRupert said:
Possibly not. Fan isn't on. It is a cold day. Just get nervous when I see steam from manifold...
I would say that as long as the car is just ticking over at fairly low revs and you know the system has plenty of coolant in it, I would run it through a few fan on/off cycles. Has the fan got a 3 pin plug as part of its loom? If so, to test it you can jump the centre pin to either side pin with a bit of wire. There will be a small spark and the fan will immediately run at 50 or 100% depending on which pin you jump.If the fan doesn't respond then that's an issue (its OK to run the engine for a short while without the fan and if driving, the fan is only useful up to 30mph for cooling - above that speed, airflow through the rad is more efficient).
If the fan is OK, I would keep an eye on the temp gauge on the dash if there is one, which is connected to the coolant temp sensor, but not the coolant level sensor which is in the rad in your case I think.
So the thermostat - someone else should advise you but I've replaced one before, its not difficult, they're not expensive and it's good peace of mind.
I would also consider new manifold gaskets, or perhaps try to tighten up the manifold bolts slightly - beware, being extremely old and rusty there is a chance they can snap, meaning the head may need to come off so they can be drilled out. I doused mine in plusgas for days before I undid them and put new copper nuts on with new gaskets when I fitted a replacement manifold. Sometimes they crack and welding doesn't really work.
Edited by ReverendCounter on Saturday 16th January 17:33
Thank you. I have a thread on Retro Rides as well and someone has suggested it sounds normal for a car on a cold day that has had the water pump changed. So perhaps I just need to let it run for longer to get up to temperature and make sure the fan works. I suspect that will take some time on a cold day like today! Your tip on testing it is noted.
Is there a bleed valve somewhere for trapped air to be released when the engine gets hot? Somewhere next to the thermostat, perhaps, looks like a schrader bike valve with a screw cap, or maybe a small screw cap somewhere in a coolant pipe on the upper height of the engine rather than down near ground level.
The system needs to be able to bleed air off. I recall you're supposed to open the lower one first, let air out when the engine is hot (risk of being slightly scalded, I don't mean to be patronising, just in case) then when liquid runs out, move to the upper bleed screw of there is one, repeat.
The system needs to be able to bleed air off. I recall you're supposed to open the lower one first, let air out when the engine is hot (risk of being slightly scalded, I don't mean to be patronising, just in case) then when liquid runs out, move to the upper bleed screw of there is one, repeat.
ReverendCounter said:
Is there a bleed valve somewhere for trapped air to be released when the engine gets hot? Somewhere next to the thermostat, perhaps, looks like a schrader bike valve with a screw cap, or maybe a small screw cap somewhere in a coolant pipe on the upper height of the engine rather than down near ground level.
The system needs to be able to bleed air off. I recall you're supposed to open the lower one first, let air out when the engine is hot (risk of being slightly scalded, I don't mean to be patronising, just in case) then when liquid runs out, move to the upper bleed screw of there is one, repeat.
Yes there are two - one at the back near the heater core, which when opened releases coolant, which is good - and one near the thermostat. I opened the latter earlier but nothing was coming through it, but think that was because engine was not up to temperature. So will do it now. The system needs to be able to bleed air off. I recall you're supposed to open the lower one first, let air out when the engine is hot (risk of being slightly scalded, I don't mean to be patronising, just in case) then when liquid runs out, move to the upper bleed screw of there is one, repeat.
Oh and given my obvious amateur skills I need to be patronised
Hmm. It isn't idling well and when warm, will stall when the accelerator is pressed.
http://imgur.com/gallery/va8ubbE
Any ideas? Carb needing tweaked?
Edit: though given i haven't touched the carb not sure how it can be that...
Timing belt not right...?
http://imgur.com/gallery/va8ubbE
Any ideas? Carb needing tweaked?
Edit: though given i haven't touched the carb not sure how it can be that...
Timing belt not right...?
Edited by PrinceRupert on Saturday 16th January 16:46
PrinceRupert said:
Hmm. It isn't idling well and when warm, will stall when the accelerator is pressed.
http://imgur.com/gallery/va8ubbE
Any ideas? Carb needing tweaked?
Edit: though given i haven't touched the carb not sure how it can be that...
Timing belt not right...?]
That doesn't sound too bad to me on idle. I have no experience with carbs. You would definitely know if it was the belt, either your engine would now be kaput or the timing would be so badly out it wouldn't run.http://imgur.com/gallery/va8ubbE
Any ideas? Carb needing tweaked?
Edit: though given i haven't touched the carb not sure how it can be that...
Timing belt not right...?]
Have you squirted carb cleaner through just in case? Sorry but I have next to no useful knowledge re carbs, but seeing as it's now running, have you thought of posting over in the home mechanics section? You might get more specific help there.
Edited by ReverendCounter on Saturday 16th January 17:17
I have some carb cleaner, just need to work out where to squirt it! I'm just not sure why it would be the carb given I didn't touch it. The only part of that system I touched was replacing the oil breather pipe with a length of hose and changing the air filter. I also put new spark plugs in...
Home mechanics section sounds a good idea!
Home mechanics section sounds a good idea!
The only thing I can think is the fuel air mix has been affected, meaning as soon as you accelerate, the mixture is getting too rich, causing the stall. Perhaps some dirt was dislodged and went into the carb or was drawn in, partially blocking it.
I think you just, to start with, take off the air filter hose and squirt something into the carb intake (if possible while it's running) to see if it will clear it out. You'd need to open the throttle butterfly in order to get the cleaner in the carb 'throat' so you'll need to operate the throttle cable manually, maybe before starting at first.
You might possibly be able to use any solvent in aerosol form (electrical contact cleaner, brake cleaner for example) but you should take better advice on all of the above.
I think you just, to start with, take off the air filter hose and squirt something into the carb intake (if possible while it's running) to see if it will clear it out. You'd need to open the throttle butterfly in order to get the cleaner in the carb 'throat' so you'll need to operate the throttle cable manually, maybe before starting at first.
You might possibly be able to use any solvent in aerosol form (electrical contact cleaner, brake cleaner for example) but you should take better advice on all of the above.
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