2004 e46 BMW 330i Sport Touring 6 speed
Discussion
Yeah, I think I will just get it booked in in the next couple of weeks and then it's done. Maybe ask them to do the CCV at the same time.
Regarding discs/pads - anything special to go for? ECP defaulted to Brembo ones, but listed about 5 at various different prices. Presumably 325mm are standard on 330 Sport? I think they are bigger than the standard 330 ones aren't they?
Regarding discs/pads - anything special to go for? ECP defaulted to Brembo ones, but listed about 5 at various different prices. Presumably 325mm are standard on 330 Sport? I think they are bigger than the standard 330 ones aren't they?
In other news, have tidied up a couple of the things that have been annoying me - the load cover was really tatty, the hardboard bit was broken and all the vinyl was peeling. There was a 3 inch gap where you could see what was in the boot as well! Anyway, tracked down a pretty clean one in grey for £30 so it looks a lot nicer in the back.
Finally fixed the glass tailgate - noticed that the knuckle on the hinge was facing the wrong way for some reason. Even taking it off and smacking it with a BFH couldn't get it to "flip", so effectively there was no lift on one side and the window just flopped. Found a hinge on ebay for sensible money and swapped them over tonight. Aligning everything was tough work (putting the old one back on was OK, but because the new one pushes upwards it's difficult to get the angle of the shims right) but it's together now and lines up OK. It doesn't automatically lift or anything but it holds fine, so that is another job done.
Old RH hinge on the left, new on the right. Notice back to front knuckle on the old one. Weird.
Annoyingly I couldn't find a way to disconnect the high level brake light ribbon cable in the spoiler so that was flapping around getting in the way.
Still to be done:
- Track down an off-side wing in Mystic blue as mine as awful lacquer peel (possibly get the front bumper resprayed too)
- New front discs/pads
- Back to the garage to weld the subframe crack and sort out some bushes/minor leaks (and CCV refresh)
- Find and fit a decent double-DIN Android stereo. BMWpowerandaudio seems to be well thought of but I really want to see a decent youtube video of it in operation before I spunk £400 on it!
- Get the interior deep cleaned (grey leather is in decent nick but it is a bit discoloured.
- Give the headlamps a polish
- either get the wheels refurbed or replace with OEM BMW 18" of some type (currently there is a Z4 living locally with CSL reps on that I am coveting...)
Finally fixed the glass tailgate - noticed that the knuckle on the hinge was facing the wrong way for some reason. Even taking it off and smacking it with a BFH couldn't get it to "flip", so effectively there was no lift on one side and the window just flopped. Found a hinge on ebay for sensible money and swapped them over tonight. Aligning everything was tough work (putting the old one back on was OK, but because the new one pushes upwards it's difficult to get the angle of the shims right) but it's together now and lines up OK. It doesn't automatically lift or anything but it holds fine, so that is another job done.
Old RH hinge on the left, new on the right. Notice back to front knuckle on the old one. Weird.
Annoyingly I couldn't find a way to disconnect the high level brake light ribbon cable in the spoiler so that was flapping around getting in the way.
Still to be done:
- Track down an off-side wing in Mystic blue as mine as awful lacquer peel (possibly get the front bumper resprayed too)
- New front discs/pads
- Back to the garage to weld the subframe crack and sort out some bushes/minor leaks (and CCV refresh)
- Find and fit a decent double-DIN Android stereo. BMWpowerandaudio seems to be well thought of but I really want to see a decent youtube video of it in operation before I spunk £400 on it!
- Get the interior deep cleaned (grey leather is in decent nick but it is a bit discoloured.
- Give the headlamps a polish
- either get the wheels refurbed or replace with OEM BMW 18" of some type (currently there is a Z4 living locally with CSL reps on that I am coveting...)
Bugger. 
I guess the extra stress of having a working glass hinge has made the tailgate hinge shear. Quite a common fault I think. Hopefully nothing I have done! Wondering whether to get a pair and change them both, although I suppose any second hand ones are going to be just as likely to suffer the same stress effects.
Unfortunate side effect is that the tailgate/window are now rendered useless
They are closed now but I am not happy about the amount of stress on the other hinge and that it might give way as well so I'd better not drive until sorted.
Oh well...
I guess the extra stress of having a working glass hinge has made the tailgate hinge shear. Quite a common fault I think. Hopefully nothing I have done! Wondering whether to get a pair and change them both, although I suppose any second hand ones are going to be just as likely to suffer the same stress effects.
Unfortunate side effect is that the tailgate/window are now rendered useless
They are closed now but I am not happy about the amount of stress on the other hinge and that it might give way as well so I'd better not drive until sorted.Oh well...
Nice car, going to do a thread?
Drawing a blank on a new hinge so far, 3 on ebay, all passenger side, contacted 3 other people breaking cars in similar colours, one hasn't replied, one is the passenger side only available, and the other has sold both! Contacted 3 breakers - local chap usually quite quick hasn't got back to me, and messages with FAB and Quarry. At this stage any colour will do and I'll get a rattle can of mystic blue! (it will annoy me if I have a red or silver hinge!)
In the meantime I have parked up the car - maybe a bit over cautious but I don't want to strain the other hinge or lose the back window on the motorway...
Anybody know important the special BMW brake lube is? realoem is most insistent (part no 83192158851) but will normal copper grease be OK on back of pads and slider pins? Oh, and does the spring clip need replacing or good to reuse a few times?
Drawing a blank on a new hinge so far, 3 on ebay, all passenger side, contacted 3 other people breaking cars in similar colours, one hasn't replied, one is the passenger side only available, and the other has sold both! Contacted 3 breakers - local chap usually quite quick hasn't got back to me, and messages with FAB and Quarry. At this stage any colour will do and I'll get a rattle can of mystic blue! (it will annoy me if I have a red or silver hinge!)
In the meantime I have parked up the car - maybe a bit over cautious but I don't want to strain the other hinge or lose the back window on the motorway...
Anybody know important the special BMW brake lube is? realoem is most insistent (part no 83192158851) but will normal copper grease be OK on back of pads and slider pins? Oh, and does the spring clip need replacing or good to reuse a few times?
Beginning to wish I'd just left the rear glass hinge as was - it might not have stayed up but at least nothing was knackered...
I have unbolted the broken hinge but can't see any way of getting it out in situ so I think I will have to remove the other hinge (and so the whole tailgate). Probably put untold levels of stress on the other hinge as well (and lifting it at was what clearly an angle has taken a chunk out of the spoiler on the roof rails
)
Any advice on removing the tailgate? Worth taking out the glass first? Am I going to be able to lower it safely on my own, and, more to the point, what are the chances of me being able to lift it back into place on my own I think I know the answer...
I have unbolted the broken hinge but can't see any way of getting it out in situ so I think I will have to remove the other hinge (and so the whole tailgate). Probably put untold levels of stress on the other hinge as well (and lifting it at was what clearly an angle has taken a chunk out of the spoiler on the roof rails
)Any advice on removing the tailgate? Worth taking out the glass first? Am I going to be able to lower it safely on my own, and, more to the point, what are the chances of me being able to lift it back into place on my own
I think I know the answer...Having removed the spoiler it's much easier to get the main hinge out once unbolted by opening the glass tailgate - wish I'd realised before as it would have avoided damaging the spoiler. Ironically I had deliberately left the spoiler attached as when I removed it before to replace the glass hinge it got scratched sliding around. Hopefully a spot of filler and a touch up pen will get it looking OK, it's on the leading edge so not too obvious.
About to fit the replacement hinge which looks to be in reasonable condition but possibly with a tiny spot of surface rust in the hinge itself, but it is really quite stiff to use in comparison to the one that has come off the car... I have soaked with penetrating fluid and will leave for a couple of hours, but is this likely to lead to premature failure? I know people have complained about stiff hinges failing - is this the tailgate or the glass?
About to fit the replacement hinge which looks to be in reasonable condition but possibly with a tiny spot of surface rust in the hinge itself, but it is really quite stiff to use in comparison to the one that has come off the car... I have soaked with penetrating fluid and will leave for a couple of hours, but is this likely to lead to premature failure? I know people have complained about stiff hinges failing - is this the tailgate or the glass?
All back together and working fine - lets hope this fix lasts longer than the last one!
Hinge loosened up after being soaked in WD40 and fiddled with for 10 mins.
For anybody interested in the future, here's how I'd do it next time (easy to do on your own and probably only takes an hour or so)
Hinge loosened up after being soaked in WD40 and fiddled with for 10 mins.
For anybody interested in the future, here's how I'd do it next time (easy to do on your own and probably only takes an hour or so)
tailgate hinge replacement said:
Care has to be exercised throughout as the tailgate is only supported on one side and you don't want to stress the working hinge. I think the first thing to do is to remove the spoiler - 4 10mm bolts under the glass trim panel at the top. Disconnect the brake light cable from under the membrane on the glass, and pull the washer hose off. The other wire is long enough to rest the spoiler on the roof.
Next, detach the strut on whichever side you want to remove the hinge. I didn't do this, and as soon as I removed the hinge it pushed the tailgate out of true stressing the hinge. There is a metal retaining clip which you can prise off with a flat head. Next job is crack off the nuts under the headlining (might want to do this before the strut TBH. Bit awkward to get to but a 13mm ratchet spanner will do the job. You can try to remove the C-pillar trim but it didn't help me much.
Then remove the hinge bolts (torx) from the tailgate (under some plastic trim that is held on with trim clips). Get somebody to help lift the tailgate and try to keep it level - spin off the nuts under the headlining, and close the tailgate carefully.
You should now be able to lift the tailgate glass and wiggle out the hinge (this was the stage that I realised removing the spoiler would make this possible - unfortunately, the shifting angle of the tailgate meant that I damaged it on a roof rail. Should have removed it at the start!) NB. glass window hinge needs to be detached from the main hinge bracket, but doesn't need to be removed.
It all went back together very easily - lining it up isn't too bad either. Drop the new hinge in and do up the torx bits on the tailgate. Open the tailgate and put the nuts on the hinge bolts inside the headlining. Shut tailgate, slacken up tailgate torx bolts and let it find its natural position. Then nip them up again (checking it latches and opens OK and looks fairly even) and torque up the nuts in the headlining. Put the strut back on (you need to remove it at both ends to get the tailgate to close ok and line it all up). Then glass window works in the same way - just let it find its natural position and then nip up bolts. Refit spoiler, open beer
In other news, alarm has gone off a few times. Assumed that I had disturbed a boot switch, but realised battery was fairly flat after a few days of sitting so hoping that is why. Actually killed it when fiddling the OBD port and the battery went flat. Alarmingly then got a TCS/ABS light that won't go out - hope this is due to the battery too, the code reader said the fault code was the ASC/DSC switch!! But wouldn't delete the code... Strange...Next, detach the strut on whichever side you want to remove the hinge. I didn't do this, and as soon as I removed the hinge it pushed the tailgate out of true stressing the hinge. There is a metal retaining clip which you can prise off with a flat head. Next job is crack off the nuts under the headlining (might want to do this before the strut TBH. Bit awkward to get to but a 13mm ratchet spanner will do the job. You can try to remove the C-pillar trim but it didn't help me much.
Then remove the hinge bolts (torx) from the tailgate (under some plastic trim that is held on with trim clips). Get somebody to help lift the tailgate and try to keep it level - spin off the nuts under the headlining, and close the tailgate carefully.
You should now be able to lift the tailgate glass and wiggle out the hinge (this was the stage that I realised removing the spoiler would make this possible - unfortunately, the shifting angle of the tailgate meant that I damaged it on a roof rail. Should have removed it at the start!) NB. glass window hinge needs to be detached from the main hinge bracket, but doesn't need to be removed.
It all went back together very easily - lining it up isn't too bad either. Drop the new hinge in and do up the torx bits on the tailgate. Open the tailgate and put the nuts on the hinge bolts inside the headlining. Shut tailgate, slacken up tailgate torx bolts and let it find its natural position. Then nip them up again (checking it latches and opens OK and looks fairly even) and torque up the nuts in the headlining. Put the strut back on (you need to remove it at both ends to get the tailgate to close ok and line it all up). Then glass window works in the same way - just let it find its natural position and then nip up bolts. Refit spoiler, open beer
Can't remember what happened with the traction light, didn't appear again! Tailgate still working fine, and disconnecting the bonnet alarm switch has prevented any more false positives.
I have been busy work so no time even to wash it, let along tinker (want to do the front brakes and the oil filter gasket as I am sick of the smell of hot oil!). It's been running great and just ticked over 150k miles (over 5000 since I bought in February.
All great until this morning. Started it up and sounded rough, clearly only running on 5. revved it a bit but no difference, last drive was yesterday and a reasonable run, no thrashing, no start stop, just a normal drive. Engine light on and even a quick drive up and down the road changed nothing, so dumped it and took the e36 to work.
Just got back and checked it again - still firing on 5, still the engine light. Tried a couple of code readers - generic U480 OBDII code reader gives me "P0302" which is just a cylinder 2 misfire. Plugged in my Creator C310 and when I poked it for engine codes (you have to interrogate the module rather than just read all codes) it gives me 2:
7B Activation, map cooling
EF Misfire, cylinder 2
the misfire code isn't terribly useful but I will pull off the plastics tomorrow afternoon when I have a bit of time and check the plug/coil pack/lead connections. Car had a full Inspection 2 a couple of months back. I have done a bit of googling on the map cooling code - seems to be something to do with an electronic thermostat, but could also be coolant temp sensor. However, apparently it rarely throws an engine light, so it maybe that it's been there for a few weeks and I only noticed it because I was looking for codes...
If I can sort the misfire I can maybe diagnose it by reading live temperature data, but the misfire is my priority at the moment. Without any further direction it's a bit difficult to know where to start though... I guess, engine cover off, check leads/plugs, and swap over a couple of the coil packs to diagnose...
I have been busy work so no time even to wash it, let along tinker (want to do the front brakes and the oil filter gasket as I am sick of the smell of hot oil!). It's been running great and just ticked over 150k miles (over 5000 since I bought in February.
All great until this morning. Started it up and sounded rough, clearly only running on 5. revved it a bit but no difference, last drive was yesterday and a reasonable run, no thrashing, no start stop, just a normal drive. Engine light on and even a quick drive up and down the road changed nothing, so dumped it and took the e36 to work.
Just got back and checked it again - still firing on 5, still the engine light. Tried a couple of code readers - generic U480 OBDII code reader gives me "P0302" which is just a cylinder 2 misfire. Plugged in my Creator C310 and when I poked it for engine codes (you have to interrogate the module rather than just read all codes) it gives me 2:
7B Activation, map cooling
EF Misfire, cylinder 2
the misfire code isn't terribly useful but I will pull off the plastics tomorrow afternoon when I have a bit of time and check the plug/coil pack/lead connections. Car had a full Inspection 2 a couple of months back. I have done a bit of googling on the map cooling code - seems to be something to do with an electronic thermostat, but could also be coolant temp sensor. However, apparently it rarely throws an engine light, so it maybe that it's been there for a few weeks and I only noticed it because I was looking for codes...
If I can sort the misfire I can maybe diagnose it by reading live temperature data, but the misfire is my priority at the moment. Without any further direction it's a bit difficult to know where to start though... I guess, engine cover off, check leads/plugs, and swap over a couple of the coil packs to diagnose...
Thanks helix. Where's the best place to get the coil? Don't want a pattern one of such a thing is available.
Can you change the stat without too much coolant loss on these?
(PS- 150k miles, yes I've had a few problems but easy come easy go. Not many manual 330 touring sports around to be picky with)
Can you change the stat without too much coolant loss on these?
(PS- 150k miles, yes I've had a few problems but easy come easy go. Not many manual 330 touring sports around to be picky with)
Yes, yes, ok, rub it in!
To be fair, this is the first thing in 5000 miles that has stopped me driving it. There's a few niggles but it is a 14 year old car with 150k on it!
I swapped the coil pack to cylinder 1 and the fault moved there, although interestingly there were a couple of misfire codes on cylinder 3 before I reset it.
The other (thermostat related) code came back after every reset - what does it mean in real terms? Is it OK to drive? It must be opening and closing as the engine warms up perfectly normally...
Cylinder 1 has a Bosch coil pack but all the others are the black Bremi ones - I thought these were the crap ones on earlier cars that tend to fail? I had assumed I would have Bosch ones all round... Is the mixture a bad thing?
To be fair, this is the first thing in 5000 miles that has stopped me driving it. There's a few niggles but it is a 14 year old car with 150k on it!
I swapped the coil pack to cylinder 1 and the fault moved there, although interestingly there were a couple of misfire codes on cylinder 3 before I reset it.
The other (thermostat related) code came back after every reset - what does it mean in real terms? Is it OK to drive? It must be opening and closing as the engine warms up perfectly normally...
Cylinder 1 has a Bosch coil pack but all the others are the black Bremi ones - I thought these were the crap ones on earlier cars that tend to fail? I had assumed I would have Bosch ones all round... Is the mixture a bad thing?
Well the coil pack is on order.
Just had a quick look and the stat looks like an arse of a job including removing fan. I need the car for a family holiday in a couple of weeks and I've got a lot on so I may just book it in for it along with the oil filter housing gasket. Also noticed that a belt down the front of the engine looks a bloody state. Surprised they didn't pick it up on the inspection 2...
Just had a quick look and the stat looks like an arse of a job including removing fan. I need the car for a family holiday in a couple of weeks and I've got a lot on so I may just book it in for it along with the oil filter housing gasket. Also noticed that a belt down the front of the engine looks a bloody state. Surprised they didn't pick it up on the inspection 2...
Thanks, yes the tailgate hinge would have been fine (if floppy) if I'd left it alone, and it's all fixed now.
Original suspension as far as I can tell but it really does feel as tight as a drum. Got a few bushes that need replacement but happy with the ride & handling generally.
The car is a bit tatty exterior wise, but honest. There are a couple of spots of rust that I intend to get looked at before they worse, and there are some bits of lacquer peel - by far the worst is the drives side wing, and the bumper. I have been on the look out for a wing but it's a rare colour so I will probably get the wing and bumper blown over at the same time as I get the rust sorted. I want to get the mechanicals sorted first though.
I love the car though, must have been a great all-rounder when new. I wish they had done an M-version. I think a supercharger would have been great too, just to add a little mid-range!
Original suspension as far as I can tell but it really does feel as tight as a drum. Got a few bushes that need replacement but happy with the ride & handling generally.
The car is a bit tatty exterior wise, but honest. There are a couple of spots of rust that I intend to get looked at before they worse, and there are some bits of lacquer peel - by far the worst is the drives side wing, and the bumper. I have been on the look out for a wing but it's a rare colour so I will probably get the wing and bumper blown over at the same time as I get the rust sorted. I want to get the mechanicals sorted first though.
I love the car though, must have been a great all-rounder when new. I wish they had done an M-version. I think a supercharger would have been great too, just to add a little mid-range!
Bosch coil turned up and duly fitted - looks different from the two types already in there (one of them Bosch), no silver bit, all black plastic. Spark plug end looks different. Bosch printed on it and in a Bosch box though. Fitted though, and no code or engine light after 15 mins running so seems fixed and engine running smoothly.
Funnily enough, as I had the code reader plugged in I checked the live data stream while the engine ran up to temp. Engine temp rose as expected and when it hit 94 or so suddenly the rad temp started to increase from ambient so I'm going to infer from that that the thermostat is working. I guess there could be an open circuit across the contacts on it or something that doesn't affect it's mechanical function but the ECU doesn't like it and is throwing a code...
Thanks to all especially helix for the advice.
Funnily enough, as I had the code reader plugged in I checked the live data stream while the engine ran up to temp. Engine temp rose as expected and when it hit 94 or so suddenly the rad temp started to increase from ambient so I'm going to infer from that that the thermostat is working. I guess there could be an open circuit across the contacts on it or something that doesn't affect it's mechanical function but the ECU doesn't like it and is throwing a code...
Thanks to all especially helix for the advice.
Decided to have a go at replacing the front pads and discs today to stop the annoying vibrations.
It has been a slow process so far! Don't know when the wheels were last off but the wheel nuts needed some.serious elbow grease, locking wheel bolt so corroded the key wouldn't fit properly, and wheel welded so badly to the hub I had to shuffle it around with slack wheelnuts to get it loose.
Now discovered that somebody has kindly drilled out the disc retaining bolt head. It is at least still held by the stud, but obviously I can't tighten it to the hub. I understand that it can cause vibrations so I hope that wasn't the problem.
Any reason I should worry about it, or just crack on?
It has been a slow process so far! Don't know when the wheels were last off but the wheel nuts needed some.serious elbow grease, locking wheel bolt so corroded the key wouldn't fit properly, and wheel welded so badly to the hub I had to shuffle it around with slack wheelnuts to get it loose.
Now discovered that somebody has kindly drilled out the disc retaining bolt head. It is at least still held by the stud, but obviously I can't tighten it to the hub. I understand that it can cause vibrations so I hope that wasn't the problem.
Any reason I should worry about it, or just crack on?
A while since I've updated.
Suddenly developed a massive vibration and needed the car so threw it at my local garage who replaced front discs and pads and that sorted that.
Have elected to stop using a BMW specialist local to me just because they were so unpleasant to deal with. Took it in as agreed for belts and thermostat and the owner was really grumpy with me, not for the first time, (told me I was late when I turned up at the agreed time, etc.) and I decided I didn't need that in my life. They clearly are busy enough and don't need my money so it won't hurt them but I was surprised as their online feedback is exemplary.
Anyway, the car has been fine and I've done 10k in it, but I got a coolant level lamp the other day. As far as I can see it is leaking from the expansion tank at the bottom - perhaps split, perhaps just a hose, but as I bust the float indicator in it it needs replacing. Decided the water pump probably ought to be done too.
I am going to put it into my local garage again - would have to wait 6 weeks for the specialist just to be shouted at, and I don't have the time or inclination to do it on the drive. I gather that all the expansion tanks (OEM/aftermarket) are s
te and split eventually, but do I need to specifiy a particular water pump to make sure I get one with a metal impeller? Or can you not get the older ones now?
Gonna get them to do the rocker cover gasket as well.
Suddenly developed a massive vibration and needed the car so threw it at my local garage who replaced front discs and pads and that sorted that.
Have elected to stop using a BMW specialist local to me just because they were so unpleasant to deal with. Took it in as agreed for belts and thermostat and the owner was really grumpy with me, not for the first time, (told me I was late when I turned up at the agreed time, etc.) and I decided I didn't need that in my life. They clearly are busy enough and don't need my money so it won't hurt them but I was surprised as their online feedback is exemplary.
Anyway, the car has been fine and I've done 10k in it, but I got a coolant level lamp the other day. As far as I can see it is leaking from the expansion tank at the bottom - perhaps split, perhaps just a hose, but as I bust the float indicator in it it needs replacing. Decided the water pump probably ought to be done too.
I am going to put it into my local garage again - would have to wait 6 weeks for the specialist just to be shouted at, and I don't have the time or inclination to do it on the drive. I gather that all the expansion tanks (OEM/aftermarket) are s
te and split eventually, but do I need to specifiy a particular water pump to make sure I get one with a metal impeller? Or can you not get the older ones now?Gonna get them to do the rocker cover gasket as well.
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