Buying an Impreza Hawkeye, blind, from Scotland...

[S100HP]

Cambs_Stuart said:

The front lower panel/radiator carrier is notorious for rusting.
ICP do a kit, but it's not a two minute job...

https://importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=11459&a...

That's awesome, thanks!

[S100HP]

Thought I'd try my luck with the Impreza on the dog walk this morning. It was just after 6am and it started on the button. I drove approximately 3 miles to Yew Tree heath and parked up. I got out the car, along with the dogs. I pressed the button on the fob to lock the car, and it did nothing. Uh-oh. The windows didn't work either. It wouldn't start again.

Bugger. The electrics had gone weird again. I went for my dog walk.

Upon returning to the car almost an hour later, I tried the fob. It worked. I climbed into the car and put the key in the ignition. Success. The car started again. I drove it approximately 3 miles home and parked it up. It wouldn't lock again. Nor would it start again.

So you can add a hot start issue to my challenges. I've started a new topic here as I'm wondering what my options are https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

The dealer has messaged me this morning asking if I'd traced the leak as yet. I'm holding off my response till I get some feedback.

[S100HP]

Joey Deacon said:

I have never seen such a new car with so much rust before, my Megane Shed is the same age as that and is absolutely spotless.

There is no way I could sell a reliable car for that, if it was me the Impreza would be on eBay with me vowing never to buy any cars unseen from Scotland again (again).

As is my Volvo. Starting to regret my stupidity. Currently have £2800 tied up in this. Trying to work out an exit plan.

He messaged this morning regarding the water leak. My response: Was going to give you a call today. I think I've narrowed it down to the top of the rad. Possibly a jubilee clip needs tightening up. I've also encountered a hot start issue yesterday and this morning too which isn't great. No electrics till it cools down. Also the two tyres with the caps missing are struggling to hold pressure. I can deal with these issues, I'm not totally unrealistic. What I'm more disappointed with however is the rot to the front, which can clearly be seen before the under-tray is removed. This and the rot around the windscreen and the tailgate. Appreciate I didn't look at it as so far away, but would have appreciated a bit more honesty. Its a bit of a nail.

I sent him a few of the pics too.

[S100HP]

seiben said:

Check the plastic section at the top of the rad near the cap... it's a known weak spot. I ended up with a hairline crack on my first Impreza which opened up when the engine was warm and lost fluid, took me a while to find it as by the time I stopped it would close up again

Replacement rad was pretty inexpensive IIRC, fitted by a local indy.

Noticed a trickle from here this morning. It's also wet on the top of the rad so I suspect the same issue. Thanks.

[S100HP]

Many thanks.

I'm not going to get anywhere with the dealer:

"Glad the coolant loss looks like a simple fix, my thought was perhaps a customer has perhaps removed a rad cap and not affixed it correctly again,

The rot to the front is news to me, i would have assumed if it was structural An mot would have picked it up or the garage that has performed the last few services.

The bodywork blemishes I haven't really noticed but that said I am not surprised, fairly normal weak points on a Subaru. I hope aside from these small issues the car drives well for you."

Edited by S100HP on Monday 2nd July 11:03

[S100HP]

cheesesliceking said:

Yikes, doom and gloom much ..

The front rad support panel is notorious for rotting in isolation and the replacement kit is about 80 quid for genuine parts (3 parts I believe ), just because thats rotten it doesn’t mean the rest of it is too, it’s an 11 year old car so a bit of rust on swappable parts isn’t exactly a surprise. :0)

OP, take a look inside the boot, unclip the carpet from the sides and peer down, you can see the arches from the inside from there and you’ll be able to see any rot there first, before it gets to the outer arch.
Check the U brace under the engine, they can rot. Bolt on and off so not difficult to change at all, you can also remove completely if you’d rather.

I like you. I checked the wheel well from inside and it looked good, I'll take a look at arches too thanks, but first I need to get this electrical issue out the way. I'm sure it is something to do with a relay, but which one does what? Is there a guide to which relays do what? I'm not convinced its an immobilise issue as it kills power to the CL and windows too.

Once I can trust it reliably starting then I'd like to get it up on ramps and have a poke around. If its not too bad then I can replace the front panel, give it a service and then run it.

[S100HP]

Pretty certain my hot start issue is something to do with this or the other relay next to it. Super hot after a quick drive and then no power again. Pulled it out, swapped it with another which set the alarm off. Swapped them back and let it cool down. 10 mins later back to normal. I've ordered 2 replacements at £6 each. Fingers crossed.

[S100HP]

jsf said:

I wouldn't be surprised if the relay getting hot is a symptom of too much current being drawn by what they control.

And that is the issue, I can't work out what they control. I've looked online for diagrams but am clearly looking for the wrong stuff. Anyone able to assist?

[S100HP]

cb1965 said:

That's the RH headlamp relay.

Really?! and the one next to it? They certainly caused confusion with the alarm when pulling them.

Edited by S100HP on Tuesday 3rd July 13:33

[S100HP]

cheesesliceking said:

S100HP said:

I like you. I checked the wheel well from inside and it looked good, I'll take a look at arches too thanks, but first I need to get this electrical issue out the way. I'm sure it is something to do with a relay, but which one does what? Is there a guide to which relays do what? I'm not convinced its an immobilise issue as it kills power to the CL and windows too.

Once I can trust it reliably starting then I'd like to get it up on ramps and have a poke around. If its not too bad then I can replace the front panel, give it a service and then run it.

Oops, I got a bit carried away with the rust doom and gloom, forgot about the starting. If it were me firstly because it's cheap and really easy to swap I'd be replacing the fuel filter. After that I'd be looking at the Crank Position and/or Cam position Sensors, some people have mentioned the coolant temp sensor, but I don't see the connection to starting.

I've never had a hot start issue with my bug but if I did that'd be the route I'd take

PS mine also has similar rust around screen, lead to believe its down to replacement screens being fitted and scratching the paint under the seal...

Its certainly an electrical issue rather than mechanical if that makes sense. It starts fine unless its been running, but once cooled down the electrics (door/windows) start to work again.

[S100HP]

seiben said:

Stupid question, but you know you need to start it within 60 seconds (I think) of unlocking or the immobiliser kicks in? If in doubt, turn the ignition to position 2 and click the lock/unlock button on the key/fob before starting.

You're probably way ahead of me on this, but worth mentioning as it's a free fix if I'm right

Thanks for the heads up, I don't think its to do with immobiliser, as I wouldn't have thought it would cut power to the windows or C/L would it?

[S100HP]

md4776 said:

Fair play for taking a punt, its an enjoyable thread for the rest of us who have nothing invested in the car. Hope it works out OK in the end....

I actually seen the car for sale (online, not in person) around the time you bought it and I wondered what a cheap scooby would be like. Guess you've helpfully answered the question

Thanks. I'm a bit down on it at the moment, but its probably not fair. It's not awful, I just feel a bit cheated. I'll be much happier once I know it will reliably start each time, and can then crack on with other bits.

[S100HP]

jsf said:

The imobilisor will self arm after a while if through a cat 1 alarm system. You have to disarm it again and yes it does cut power to windows etc.

Okay,that's interesting. Doesn't make sense that it would kill power to everything as soon as you remove key from ignition only after having been driving it, unless I'm missing something?

[S100HP]

That's kind, thanks..where are you?

[S100HP]

Bungleaio said:

I'm in Leicestershire but I travel about a bit so may be able to drop it off to you.

Sure we can sort something.

I actually really like the car, it looks awesome, just a shame I've little confidence ATM.

I'm sure my hot start issue is certainly linked to temperature of something. I've just been out and started it, let it idle for a min or two, turned it off then locked it, and it worked correctly. I then unlocked it and it started again. It's must be temperature related as the times it's failed to start are once I've driven for a bit.

I just don't know what the problem is. Must be a fuse or relay? I've ordered a replacement main fuse too as maybe my 60+60 bodge isn't helping.

Edited by S100HP on Tuesday 3rd July 22:39

[S100HP]

MDMA . said:

Try the following :

Check / clean crank position sensor. Check / clean coolant temp sensor. Clean MAF, then check the FPR.

My challenge with all these suggestions is would they kill power to the car entirely? Even the ODO disappears when its warm. This is why I think it must be fuse/relay related. Its as if someone has disconnected the battery. I've checked the clamps btw!

md4776 said:

Wouldn't the crank position sensor show up as a engine management light? I had similar problems on a 2005 car (not scooby) I had but it flagged up as the EML with code reading the sensor , changed the sensor and it seemed fine for 24 hours before it started playing up again. Auto electrician figured out it was the plug the sensor went into that was knackered.

I tend to agree, see above. Its totally losing all power once warm. It doesn't feel like a sensor issue.

Steve_F said:

Certainly sounds like it was traded in due to mounting small issues but doesn't seem time to give up on it yet. I had similar money in an Octavia Vrs (in blue too) which had a growing issue list. Where I went wrong was not finding everything before starting fixing. Ended up getting rid right after spending £400 on an exhaust. Found out there were cam chain and sensor issues with four figure repair bills (fixing all major issues). You don't seem to be heading that way!

Well I've not pushed the boat out too much just yet. I have just dropped the wheel which loses pressure over a few days to be repaired, hoping its just a bad seal or dodgy valve. That might cost me a whole £10. I've a couple new relays and a new main fuse in the post, which is another £15! That takes my spending to £100 now. Kitchski is coming over this evening to take a look and give an opinion. The next task is to get it down to his work and up on the ramps, so we can truly see how bad it is underneath before committing too much more to the cause.

MB140 said:

Sorry mate don’t have a clue about scoobys commenting to follow.

Best of luck with this one after your last scotish escapade

Cheers, but I'm never doing it again!

[S100HP]

CarlosV8 said:

If you're losing all power I would be checking main relays and fuses as you are, but have you also checked earthing points? Dodgy earths can do all sorts of weird things!

My Impreza is being collected tomorrow, but if you want to check/compare anything on a working car tonight let me know.

Thanks for the offer, but Kitch is coming over to night to have a look. Earth was the other consideration so will be sure to check it out.

In other good news the deflating wheel is now fixed for £10. It had a dodgy valve and was corroded. The rear wheel also loses pressure, but not as quickly so that one can be resolved when I can drive the car.

AdamIndy said:

Will changing the fuel filter help the electrics to work when it's hot? From what I can tell, the car is completely dead when it's hot, no electrics working at all.

Electrical issues are a right tt, I hate them! I'd be waiting for the electrics not to work again then chasing the wiring with a multi meter from the battery and see what has power and what doesn't. Get a multi meter around the relays and see if there is power to them.

Good luck mate!

Thanks. You are reading correctly, completely dead when warmed up. A short idle then restart doesn't cause the same issues. Should be easier to work out with someone who knows what they're looking at tonight.

Edited by S100HP on Wednesday 4th July 13:15

[S100HP]

I think I may have fixed it. Turns out the clamp on the bodged main fuse had worked loose. Will find out in a bit when I go for a proper test drive.

Edited by S100HP on Wednesday 4th July 19:14

[S100HP]

Well the hot start issue turned out to be the temporary fuse having come loose. The replacement male cartridge should arrive today and will be fitted this evening. Relays will be tucked away and forgotten about.



Next up was the leak from the front of the engine bay. I had purchased a jubilee clip and fitted it last night, hoping it would cure the issue. It didn't.

Hats off to seiben, I found a crack on the plastic section on the top of the rad. New one ordered today for £85, and I shall have a go at fitting myself, I've done a rad on a Xsara VTS which was much more tricky than this one looks. Two bolts and a few hoses. Let see if it really is as easy as the videos online show...will give me a chance to clean up down there anyway.

seiben said:

Check the plastic section at the top of the rad near the cap... it's a known weak spot. I ended up with a hairline crack on my first Impreza which opened up when the engine was warm and lost fluid, took me a while to find it as by the time I stopped it would close up again

Replacement rad was pretty inexpensive IIRC, fitted by a local indy.

Once fitted Kitchski will come back and give me a hand to bleed it correctly, as they can be a bit challenging apparently. I found this out last night as the temp guage jumped from 1/3 to full in less than a second, which makes me think there has been airlock. Hopefully its not cooked! Assuming its not, and it runs well then we'll get it up on ramps and check underneath, but the arches are nowhere near as crusty as expected which is a good sign. The steering rack on the other hand is a bit graunchy...

The Impreza, the car that keeps giving...

[S100HP]

Cheers for that. Useful.

Tonight involved removal of the radiator. Took about an hour, which included 20 mins just trying to undo fan plugs!

First remove intake



Then radiator



Could be much worse down there



Underneath looks like it's lived in Scotland, bit it could be worse. Most of the rust is the radiator beam that we already knew was toast.



A successful evening.