Mercedes-Benz CLK350 Elegance - Bottom of the Barrel
Discussion
dirtbiker said:
Always a joy to read these threads so I'm sad that this one is coming to an end! Thanks for sharing!
Most welcome.r129sl said:
I think it Is a great looking car and I admire your attention to detail. Personally (I appreciate these things are entirely subjective), I prefer this colour scheme to all others and like the Elegance specification: to add extra ride comfort to that specification seem to me very sensible and desirable. It is rare in any event that even very fast progress on the road calls for "sports"-type suspension, especially if carrying a passenger.
Why not simply repair the engine?
Thank you - we share the same opinion. The engine question is a good one. The repair is an engine out job that involves quite a bit of additional labour, and it isn't a job that I'd have the enthusiasm to do given my other ongoing projects so it would be down to my trusted mechanic to take on the work. The total cost is somewhere around £1500 which is half way towards a V8 conversion. Second hand V6 engines are around £2k(!) Why not simply repair the engine?
I'd really like a M273 V8 CLK coupe but they are the rarest of all save for the DTM versions - Elegance spec cars are like unicorns. I'm in the process of looking for a low mileage car whilst they are still reasonably plentiful, as my plan is to store it for whenever this car gives up - I like Mercedes cars but the later models don't do a lot for me. If a good 5.5 comes up then that's fine, but it's more likely to be another V6 hence my seemingly illogical options - mind you, not a lot I do with cars makes a great deal of sense, but nevertheless I do enjoy myself
ChrisCh86 said:
Why is the engine about to go boom?
Surely after all the time you've committed to this car it's worth fixing any issues that arise rather than selling on?
I explain in the first post but in summary it's a common fault and the car was a bargain basement buy because of it. I don't plan to sell the car.Surely after all the time you've committed to this car it's worth fixing any issues that arise rather than selling on?
trevalvole said:
I'm sure you've looked into this more than I have, but when I was considering buying a car with an M272 engine, I found the following from https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads/the-complete-m... that indicates that there were three different levels of problem depending on the engine number:
engines up to #2729..30 468933 -- this when the gear is the problem
engines up to #2729..30 759427 -- this when the adjustment solenoids are the problem
engines up to #2729..30 895140 -- this when the adjustment solenoids leak oil
Thank you very much for that. This car being an 06 is well in to the gear problem - the engine number starting with a 3. I used the Mercedes medic website to learn about the issue and check, but the thread that you quoted from is a good summary.engines up to #2729..30 468933 -- this when the gear is the problem
engines up to #2729..30 759427 -- this when the adjustment solenoids are the problem
engines up to #2729..30 895140 -- this when the adjustment solenoids leak oil
Max M4X WW said:
Wow, how did I miss this one?! I need an 'mwstewart new thread notification button'.
Anyway, great transformation on the car but it does seem a shame to do all of the work with a ticking time clock attached to it!
Hoping you hang onto it and keep it going.
Thanks Max. I only just spotted your post. Anyway, great transformation on the car but it does seem a shame to do all of the work with a ticking time clock attached to it!
Hoping you hang onto it and keep it going.
This happenend last week thanks to a 5" deep pothole:
A new wheel costs £173 inc. VAT from MB. I've submitted a claim to the council.
No other problems to report - it just keeps going. It had the second service in my ownership before Christmas, and the engine still sounds good.
The front & rear suspension arms are past their best, ditto the rear ball joints - one per side located in the upright (A 220 352 02 27). I think that what I'll do is buy a new set for the Designo car, and have its cast-offs (33k miles) fitted to the this car.
With the suspension work completed I've no reason to suspect that the car won't pass its MOT in April.
A new wheel costs £173 inc. VAT from MB. I've submitted a claim to the council.
No other problems to report - it just keeps going. It had the second service in my ownership before Christmas, and the engine still sounds good.
The front & rear suspension arms are past their best, ditto the rear ball joints - one per side located in the upright (A 220 352 02 27). I think that what I'll do is buy a new set for the Designo car, and have its cast-offs (33k miles) fitted to the this car.
With the suspension work completed I've no reason to suspect that the car won't pass its MOT in April.
In other CLK related news my Dad has a Tellurite Silver sport cabriolet. Tellurite is silver with a blue pearl. The car has a red leather interior, which makes a nice change from black, but next to Tellurite it looks garish.He likes the interior in my Cubanite car, but again it doesn't suit Tellurite.
Dad's second favourite is the very rare Cappuccino option, and as luck would have it I found for sale a RHD Cappuccino cabriolet interior with heated, manual seats: his exact spec. My brother and I & our wives bought it for his Christmas present.
A few weeks ago I fitted it for him. It was quite straight forward, the only point of note being the rear headrests: we the trick with those is to replace the covers leaving the rest of the assembly/internal headrest support alone.
Fitted. Much better.
Dad ordered a Furniture Clinic airbrush kit, which we used to strip off the existing red from his steering wheel, gearknob, and gaitor, and then refinish in Cappuccino.
Dad's second favourite is the very rare Cappuccino option, and as luck would have it I found for sale a RHD Cappuccino cabriolet interior with heated, manual seats: his exact spec. My brother and I & our wives bought it for his Christmas present.
A few weeks ago I fitted it for him. It was quite straight forward, the only point of note being the rear headrests: we the trick with those is to replace the covers leaving the rest of the assembly/internal headrest support alone.
Fitted. Much better.
Dad ordered a Furniture Clinic airbrush kit, which we used to strip off the existing red from his steering wheel, gearknob, and gaitor, and then refinish in Cappuccino.
Thanks chaps. I agree: I think that the 209 is a beautiful car, inside and out.
The M112, M113, and 5G combinations are generally bomb-proof. I also like the V8s, and in terms of running cost there really isn't anything in it, but the 350 removes much of the temptation to travel everywhere at warp speed An M113 5.0 facelift coupe with the 7G 'box would be my pick - I keep my eye out.
Regarding the M113K there are converted 208's out there, so I'm sure that it's possible in the 209
The M112, M113, and 5G combinations are generally bomb-proof. I also like the V8s, and in terms of running cost there really isn't anything in it, but the 350 removes much of the temptation to travel everywhere at warp speed
An M113 5.0 facelift coupe with the 7G 'box would be my pick - I keep my eye out.Regarding the M113K there are converted 208's out there, so I'm sure that it's possible in the 209
J4CKO said:
Surely a CLK 500 wit the M273 is the one to have ?
We bought a cheap 209 CLK 200D in Sept, my son wanted out of his Golf R as prices were high so managed six months and 6000 miles and got more than he paid back despite the car using a bit of oil and him not being all that enamoured with it.
So, sketchy seller and one slightly tired CLK that came with new tyres, brakes and a big bill for a recent service and a few other bits. All its needed was a Thermostat fitted by my dad and my son (£23) and a window switch, which not sure has been fitted yet. Passed the MOT with a couple of minor advisory items we will attend to over the summer.
Its drags its carcass up and down to Scotland every few weeks and does 45 to the gallon or thereabouts, its not fast but its not painful either. Its very comfy and he doesn't worry about leaving it. It rides really nicely though not keen on hustling it, above all it fells like a proper Mercedes despite being relatively small and having a weedy diesel engine. Wha impressed me was when looking under it, no surface rust, some road gunk but it wasnt leaking at all bu nothing was corroding which at 105k miles and 17 years old is pretty good going for one that hasn't had that much care.
See loads with much more mileage so I think with a bit of maintenance it could soldier on indefinitely, have to say for 2 grand, I am very impressed and quite taken with it, used it for a month, complete antithesis to my modified Fiesta ST which is like an agitated Jack Russell.
You'd think so, and on paper that is the obvious candidate, but after my experience with the CLK63 I wouldn't again want that much power in a CLK. There was too much low down torque; a brush of the accelerator and it was at 80 without breaking a sweat, but there wasn't any real sensation of working the engine - to feel that, it needed to be wrung out a little bit, which I did...always. The problem then - or not depending on your definition of a problem! - was that when it got into its stride it was at the indicated 165 limiter on any decent stretch of tarmac. In fairness it's probably more of an owner problem than a car problem, but if it's there I want to use it We bought a cheap 209 CLK 200D in Sept, my son wanted out of his Golf R as prices were high so managed six months and 6000 miles and got more than he paid back despite the car using a bit of oil and him not being all that enamoured with it.
So, sketchy seller and one slightly tired CLK that came with new tyres, brakes and a big bill for a recent service and a few other bits. All its needed was a Thermostat fitted by my dad and my son (£23) and a window switch, which not sure has been fitted yet. Passed the MOT with a couple of minor advisory items we will attend to over the summer.
Its drags its carcass up and down to Scotland every few weeks and does 45 to the gallon or thereabouts, its not fast but its not painful either. Its very comfy and he doesn't worry about leaving it. It rides really nicely though not keen on hustling it, above all it fells like a proper Mercedes despite being relatively small and having a weedy diesel engine. Wha impressed me was when looking under it, no surface rust, some road gunk but it wasnt leaking at all bu nothing was corroding which at 105k miles and 17 years old is pretty good going for one that hasn't had that much care.
See loads with much more mileage so I think with a bit of maintenance it could soldier on indefinitely, have to say for 2 grand, I am very impressed and quite taken with it, used it for a month, complete antithesis to my modified Fiesta ST which is like an agitated Jack Russell.
The 350 is very smooth, sounds good, and has enough poke to overtake easily, but not so much that I find myself everywhere in points territory. The 5.5 388bhp V8 would put me back into that zone again, and these days I don't want that in a daily. I really only want the V8 for the sound, and a little bit of extra smoothness.
I had a diesel CLK years ago and would still consider one. I found a 66k mile 270 coupe with cloth seats and no radio - for options whatsoever. For some reason it really appealed.
I agree: I expect that your son's car will cog on for a long time if it's serviced regularly.
trevalvole said:
I'm looking to replace the driver's seat cushion in my CL203, and given that the CLK is based on the W203, I wondered if you knew the answer to the following?
The seat base on the CL203 is clamped to a rail (which is part of the seat) with two sets of two plastic bolts, which I suspect have female torx screws in them. As I don't have a socket for the male torx bolts that hold the seat in place it is difficult to see what screws these plastic bolts have in them - are they female torx screws (T30?) as a YouTube video of a W204 seat would have me believe? TIA
I'm afraid that I haven't had a need to take apart the seats.The seat base on the CL203 is clamped to a rail (which is part of the seat) with two sets of two plastic bolts, which I suspect have female torx screws in them. As I don't have a socket for the male torx bolts that hold the seat in place it is difficult to see what screws these plastic bolts have in them - are they female torx screws (T30?) as a YouTube video of a W204 seat would have me believe? TIA
Another year has passed, and so was time for the MOT. For the sake of convenience I sent the car for a pre-MOT just to see if there was anything amiss other than the worn front arms that I was already aware of. The inspection revealed some light corrosion on the rear brake pipes that would lead to an advisory - I inspected them to find them some very solid pipes with a smattering of light powdery corrosion in places, so all that was required was a clean with a wire brush, and a liberal coating with Dinitrol wax.
I swapped over the four front arms from the Designo car because eventually I will perform a light underside restoration on that car, to include all new suspension and bushes (I'm extremely fussy when it comes to suspension) - for now it sits on axle stands. I decided to fit new Febi track rod ends and tie rods together with some Lemforder rear ball joints, prior to an alignment. The rod ends and ball joints weren't necessary from an MOT perspective, but there's a gulf between MOT standards and optimum driving/handling, and after checking them I decided that pre-emptive replacement was in order.
Of course, the inner tie rods that had been sent were for the W208, so as I was, working away from home with the car on axle stands, immobile, I was stranded with the option of refitting the worn parts, or doing something else. I was fortunate to free off the original tie rods to which I attached the new Febi track rod ends.
The car passed its MOT with an advisory for the rear brake pipes: 'cleaned and covered in grease' which wasn't a surprise - Jamie explained to me that it's an arse covering exercise.
That's all for now. Very uninteresting, but somehow this car has turned out to be one of the most enjoyable that I've owned - partly I suppose because it was purchased for 'scrap' money, and hence my expectations are so low, but it is more than that: it's like that old pair of shoes that are ever so comfortable. I've said it before, but it is a much more cohesive package than the CLK63 despite there being a nagging in the back of my mind that it needs to be a V8, although really only for the sound, because from a performance perspective it is certainly adequate.
Oh, I am still playing around with suspension I've gone through two additional spring changes. I can see that Jamie thinks that I'm a bit mad - I suppose when you're used to changing snapped springs all day it must seem quite strange to remove & replace relatively new parts. I've gone back to the European spec ARBs front & rear, but with the US dampers. The US ARBs turned out to be too much of a handling sacrifice for a surprisingly small gain in comfort. I've found that offsetting with spring rates is for me preferable to ARB rates. I'm still playing with spring rates, but I'm very close now to the perfect spec.
I will finally tune with tyre sizes: I think that the next profile size up at each end will complete the package...confirmation to follow post-testing.
I swapped over the four front arms from the Designo car because eventually I will perform a light underside restoration on that car, to include all new suspension and bushes (I'm extremely fussy when it comes to suspension) - for now it sits on axle stands. I decided to fit new Febi track rod ends and tie rods together with some Lemforder rear ball joints, prior to an alignment. The rod ends and ball joints weren't necessary from an MOT perspective, but there's a gulf between MOT standards and optimum driving/handling, and after checking them I decided that pre-emptive replacement was in order.
Of course, the inner tie rods that had been sent were for the W208, so as I was, working away from home with the car on axle stands, immobile, I was stranded with the option of refitting the worn parts, or doing something else. I was fortunate to free off the original tie rods to which I attached the new Febi track rod ends.
The car passed its MOT with an advisory for the rear brake pipes: 'cleaned and covered in grease' which wasn't a surprise - Jamie explained to me that it's an arse covering exercise.
That's all for now. Very uninteresting, but somehow this car has turned out to be one of the most enjoyable that I've owned - partly I suppose because it was purchased for 'scrap' money, and hence my expectations are so low, but it is more than that: it's like that old pair of shoes that are ever so comfortable. I've said it before, but it is a much more cohesive package than the CLK63 despite there being a nagging in the back of my mind that it needs to be a V8, although really only for the sound, because from a performance perspective it is certainly adequate.
Oh, I am still playing around with suspension
I've gone through two additional spring changes. I can see that Jamie thinks that I'm a bit mad - I suppose when you're used to changing snapped springs all day it must seem quite strange to remove & replace relatively new parts. I've gone back to the European spec ARBs front & rear, but with the US dampers. The US ARBs turned out to be too much of a handling sacrifice for a surprisingly small gain in comfort. I've found that offsetting with spring rates is for me preferable to ARB rates. I'm still playing with spring rates, but I'm very close now to the perfect spec.I will finally tune with tyre sizes: I think that the next profile size up at each end will complete the package...confirmation to follow post-testing.
trevalvole said:
Will that involve changing the wheels for 16" ones, like some of the early W209s had? If so, staggered, or the same all-round?
Just the tyres, and I'll increase the sidewall rather than the width. The 350's had upgraded brakes so unfortunately 17's are the smallest wheel available. The brakes are also too good to give up, and the next system down - the basic version - always felt marginal.I did own a 270CDi equipped with the 16" wheels; it rode beautifully. If it wasn't for the brakes I would fit some.
Max M4X WW said:
You know I will be the first to agree with this! The car I probably miss and regret selling the most was my 850 T5 that I gave £650 for. It had done 225k miles and needed a fair amount of work but I almost felt sorry for it and gave it half a chance in return. With most issues sorted it was a great car.
Love the update and unexpected (if inevitable!) likeability!
Cheers Max.Love the update and unexpected (if inevitable!) likeability!
MickyveloceClassic said:
My 2003 320 has 16” wheels. It’s a lovely comfy thing.
I wanted to own a 209 before the world ran out of petrol, and it hasn’t disappointed. Having run a W204 C63 as a daily for a couple of years, this, with my ageing bones, is just so much nicer.
That's a fine looking car. The pre-facelift has a style of its own: I like the wheels, and the blue tinted glass looks good against the Ice Blue paint.I wanted to own a 209 before the world ran out of petrol, and it hasn’t disappointed. Having run a W204 C63 as a daily for a couple of years, this, with my ageing bones, is just so much nicer.
The C63 & CLK63 spring rates are absurd for road use; something like 3.2 times as stiff as the average Sport spec car, and that's not including the huge ARBs & increased rate dampers. I found the CLK63 to be a little bit confused.
trevalvole said:
MickyveloceClassic said:
mwstewart said:
Just the tyres, and I'll increase the sidewall rather than the width. The 350's had upgraded brakes so unfortunately 17's are the smallest wheel available. The brakes are also too good to give up, and the next system down - the basic version - always felt marginal.
I did own a 270CDi equipped with the 16" wheels; it rode beautifully. If it wasn't for the brakes I would fit some.
My 2003 320 has 16” wheels. It’s a lovely comfy thing.I did own a 270CDi equipped with the 16" wheels; it rode beautifully. If it wasn't for the brakes I would fit some.
I wanted to own a 209 before the world ran out of petrol, and it hasn’t disappointed. Having run a W204 C63 as a daily for a couple of years, this, with my ageing bones, is just so much nicer.
trevalvole said:
Thanks for the offer, but I've not really got the facilities to do that. However, your comment did make me recall that the MOT history has entries for each of the front springs being broken, and some of the service history is not at Mercedes-only specialists, so there's probably a question as to who made the front springs and to what specification.
I suppose one of the things that could make the 16" wheel CLKs ride so well might be lower un-sprung weight from the smaller wheels and brake discs, rather than just the tyre profile?
If you're ever interested then MB parts dept can provide the spring & damper part numbers.I suppose one of the things that could make the 16" wheel CLKs ride so well might be lower un-sprung weight from the smaller wheels and brake discs, rather than just the tyre profile?
The 350 has aluminium calipers whereas the base brakes are all cast iron, so the brakes will be reasonably close in weight. There's definitely extra weight in the wheels and wider tyres, but to me it feels more like tyre profile rather than weight.
devnull said:
Has the circular area on the dashboard that has the dash vent wheels started to go sticky? Mine has (2006) and it lets the interior down a bit.
Yes, it did that. I removed the transparent sticky coating with https://www.autoglym.com/interior-cleanerAlternatively you can use: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09LVT2LCG/ref=cm_sw_r...
cat sticky > /dev/null
I had noticed a slightly hard edge to the ride quality at the rear end, and I diagnosed worn cross axis joints located on the outboard side of the lower arms. A pair of Lemforder joints was a very reasonable £27.04 from Autodoc.
The joints were the original parts and had made themselves quite at home in rear uprights. I used heat to expand the upright and a mallet and appropriately sized socket to drift them out - the threaded bar and socket approach wouldn't move them. I carefully drifed in the new joints whilst the upright was still hot
All in all it wasn't a bad job requiring a little under two hours.
The joints were the original parts and had made themselves quite at home in rear uprights. I used heat to expand the upright and a mallet and appropriately sized socket to drift them out - the threaded bar and socket approach wouldn't move them. I carefully drifed in the new joints whilst the upright was still hot
All in all it wasn't a bad job requiring a little under two hours.
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