Peugeot 306 - 1360cc of raw power.
Discussion
This one dyno'd at 98bhp and 96lbft last year, not bad for a basically stock engine bar a reworked head, chambers, upped compression and a lot of little tweaks here and there - it was still climbing at the redline but I can't adjust that on the Bosch setup.
It'd be more if I can ditch the godawful Monopoint injection, you expect to see a small goblin with a bucket and an abacus under the ECU cover occasionally throwing fuel towards the inlet.
It'd be more if I can ditch the godawful Monopoint injection, you expect to see a small goblin with a bucket and an abacus under the ECU cover occasionally throwing fuel towards the inlet.
Edited by PhillipM on Saturday 1st May 23:45
PhillipM said:
This one dyno'd at 98bhp and 96lbft last year, not bad for a basically stock engine bar a reworked head, chambers, upped compression and a lot of little tweaks here and there - it was still climbing at the redline but I can't adjust that on the Bosch setup.
It'd be more if I can ditch the godawful Monopoint injection, you expect to see a small goblin with a bucket and an abacus under the ECU cover occasionally throwing fuel towards the inlet.
If you can't get the bike TBs sorted soon, have a look for an XS/Rallye twin Solex carb and inlet manifold. Jetted correctly they can be very, very good.It'd be more if I can ditch the godawful Monopoint injection, you expect to see a small goblin with a bucket and an abacus under the ECU cover occasionally throwing fuel towards the inlet.
TBH though, I'd be looking for a 106 GTI or Saxo VTS engine. I hear with a little work they can see over 150bhp. Not sure if they changed to the iron block for those though, a little too new for my area of expertise!
Bugger that, they're iron block 
I'll get the throttle bodies running easy enough, it's just finding time at the minute, that and I want to save a few quid and make myself a complete new loom for the car whilst I'm there.
Power isn't really an issue for me (do you get taken outside and shot for saying that on here?), the weekend toy has plenty of surplus acceleration, this is quick enough if you find a nice twisty road, and I don't lose my licence whilst having a play.
I'll get the throttle bodies running easy enough, it's just finding time at the minute, that and I want to save a few quid and make myself a complete new loom for the car whilst I'm there.
Power isn't really an issue for me (do you get taken outside and shot for saying that on here?), the weekend toy has plenty of surplus acceleration, this is quick enough if you find a nice twisty road, and I don't lose my licence whilst having a play.
Edited by PhillipM on Sunday 2nd May 00:01
PhillipM said:
Power isn't really an issue for me, it's quick enough if you find a nice twisty road.
That's the essence of the thing. I had an amazing drive home on Friday in my 205. It's by no means the fastest thing out there, but the speed you can carry through the bends on a tight little country road is just brilliant. Hopefully my new purchase (MX-5) will be just as fun.
In line brake effort limiters? Tis all I can think of!
You definitely don't need that much power in the little pugs, in fact less power encourages you to throw it into the corners more vigorously
I was just over a second off the Spoox Mi16 powered 205 in my standard TU3S engined 205 at Prescott last year
You definitely don't need that much power in the little pugs, in fact less power encourages you to throw it into the corners more vigorously
I was just over a second off the Spoox Mi16 powered 205 in my standard TU3S engined 205 at Prescott last year Made a mount for a 'Suspension Cam' today, and did a quick little test:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cM-RTvgzx1s
Just to show rose jointed suspension can be complaint and quiet!
(The belt noise is because I haven't got the covers back on the engine yet)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cM-RTvgzx1s
Just to show rose jointed suspension can be complaint and quiet!
(The belt noise is because I haven't got the covers back on the engine yet)
Because they're only useful in a specific set of conditions 
For OEM cars there's too much brake wear and they give a little whirring noise >70mph, and they need be ductile iron and used with uprated pads so it's even more cost.
For out and out circuit race cars they're often struggling with disc temperature under governed wheel sizes, so no good, and the low temperature performance doesn't come into it.
Where they do fit in is the fast road/occasional track car, rally or sprint machines, where disc temperature generally isn't an issue but pad temperature is, and they're already running high quality discs, and generally a pad that works well at road speeds tends to have fade before disc temperatures become an issue, and vice versa, plus you've got water and puddles knocking pads back from the disc (hence the active systems to clear water from Merc and BMW) and low speed squeal that occurs with really hard pads.
So basically, these allow the use of a harder racing pad whilst boosting low temperature bite (there's also a version designed for use with standard pads simply to save weight and boost initial bite, not as extreme in shape but pad temperatures stay similar to stock as they pump air across the pad surface), so the pads don't have to be warm to work - they break up the harmonics in the disc to stop them squealing, and they clear water/mud from the surface of the disc so the brakes work as well in the wet as the dry.
Plus, they're a lot lighter, in the case of mine, around half the weight of a standard fitment disc, which is 6.8kg of rotational and unsprung weight gone from the front axle.
They do wear faster though, obviously, but then when you can buy 'performance' brake discs with 40/80 grooves in the surface vs these....
And you do see them on off-road safari/rally/sprint cars, provided you know where to look
This has them on:
As does this:
And this
And this:
And this:
And this sprint car, sorry about the small piccy, this one is on the less aggressive patterned discs:
And many others, but I think that's enough pictures
But basically for my car I can fit big enough discs and enough cooling ducts under the wheels that disc temperature will never be a problem, what will is getting brake pads that can cope with the temperatures and still be usable on the roads, the wavy discs allow me all of the advantages of a high-temperature track pad with none of the down sides, along with better acceleration, grip, comfort and handling to boot.
For OEM cars there's too much brake wear and they give a little whirring noise >70mph, and they need be ductile iron and used with uprated pads so it's even more cost.
For out and out circuit race cars they're often struggling with disc temperature under governed wheel sizes, so no good, and the low temperature performance doesn't come into it.
Where they do fit in is the fast road/occasional track car, rally or sprint machines, where disc temperature generally isn't an issue but pad temperature is, and they're already running high quality discs, and generally a pad that works well at road speeds tends to have fade before disc temperatures become an issue, and vice versa, plus you've got water and puddles knocking pads back from the disc (hence the active systems to clear water from Merc and BMW) and low speed squeal that occurs with really hard pads.
So basically, these allow the use of a harder racing pad whilst boosting low temperature bite (there's also a version designed for use with standard pads simply to save weight and boost initial bite, not as extreme in shape but pad temperatures stay similar to stock as they pump air across the pad surface), so the pads don't have to be warm to work - they break up the harmonics in the disc to stop them squealing, and they clear water/mud from the surface of the disc so the brakes work as well in the wet as the dry.
Plus, they're a lot lighter, in the case of mine, around half the weight of a standard fitment disc, which is 6.8kg of rotational and unsprung weight gone from the front axle.
They do wear faster though, obviously, but then when you can buy 'performance' brake discs with 40/80 grooves in the surface vs these....
And you do see them on off-road safari/rally/sprint cars, provided you know where to look
This has them on:
As does this:
And this
And this:
And this:
And this sprint car, sorry about the small piccy, this one is on the less aggressive patterned discs:
And many others, but I think that's enough pictures
But basically for my car I can fit big enough discs and enough cooling ducts under the wheels that disc temperature will never be a problem, what will is getting brake pads that can cope with the temperatures and still be usable on the roads, the wavy discs allow me all of the advantages of a high-temperature track pad with none of the down sides, along with better acceleration, grip, comfort and handling to boot.
Edited by PhillipM on Wednesday 12th May 13:52
Edited by PhillipM on Wednesday 12th May 14:08
As you can see from the photo's I made mine myself, unfortunately I don't have access to that CNC mill anymore due to a workshop move by the owner, but with a bit of luck should be back in commission again soon, so I might be in production with them then.
That's for another day/thread though.
But, together with the tubular wishbones and some lightening on the hubs and spacers, they've helped towards 9kg of weight loss from each front corner, which has made a notable difference to ride comfort - it's actually more comfortable now on the rose-jointed wishbones than it was on the old polyurethane bushed ones.
Steers better too.
That's for another day/thread though.
But, together with the tubular wishbones and some lightening on the hubs and spacers, they've helped towards 9kg of weight loss from each front corner, which has made a notable difference to ride comfort - it's actually more comfortable now on the rose-jointed wishbones than it was on the old polyurethane bushed ones.
Steers better too.
Edited by PhillipM on Thursday 13th May 15:31
Today's job was a little tweaking and chopping in the form of lengthening the wheelbase by 15mm by shifting the front wheel forwards in the arch, plus corresponding tweaks to the geometery - and measuring the bumpsteer at the minute (it has more than a standard car as I'm running much more castor), and correcting as much of it as I could, which meant lifting the steering rack up by 10mm.
Unfortunately, the steering rack bolts horizontally to the subframe, so I've spent most of the day under the car getting hot welding splatter down my arms whilst I welded the original holes up and drilled 2 new mounts, rather than just being able to shim the rack.
That's got the bumpsteer curves almost back to standard.
A couple of small changes but they've made a huge difference to the traction and stability of the car, power on at the apex now actually pulls the front in rather than pushing into understeer - any corner it will turn into you can almost certainly plant the throttle right out of without worrying about even a hint of the car pushing wide.
Might be able to tell I'm quite happy with the changes
Didn't get any pictures today but I'll grab a couple tommorow.
Unfortunately, the steering rack bolts horizontally to the subframe, so I've spent most of the day under the car getting hot welding splatter down my arms whilst I welded the original holes up and drilled 2 new mounts, rather than just being able to shim the rack.
That's got the bumpsteer curves almost back to standard.
A couple of small changes but they've made a huge difference to the traction and stability of the car, power on at the apex now actually pulls the front in rather than pushing into understeer - any corner it will turn into you can almost certainly plant the throttle right out of without worrying about even a hint of the car pushing wide.
Might be able to tell I'm quite happy with the changes
Didn't get any pictures today but I'll grab a couple tommorow.
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