Jaguar F-Pace Non Runner

[Escy]

The Jaguar broke down today. A proper one, requiring recovery. I took a suitably dramatic photo of it on the back of a low loader but my phone didn't save it.

My wife picked my daughter up from school (so it had just been driven). Got back in it, the engine starts fine but the gear selector isn't popping up. Lots of warnings, gearbox fault, brakes, etc

From the diagnostics I'd say it looks a CANbus wiring issue or a module on the bus is down.



There was also a code on the gateway module but that cleared and stayed off. Whilst looking through the gateway module I could see the battery capacity was at 80% and I also noticed there was a check box ticked for the start stop being disabled to due the battery capacity being too low. The start stop had stopped working about 5 months ago but as it was an annoying feature I'd not really investigated (I had expected the engine control unit to have logged a fault for it, there wasn't one). So I've got a duff battery, it's not unknown for a bad battery to cause random faults so I'm crossing my fingers a replacement will fix it, I'm not holding my breath though.

Edited by Escy on Wednesday 6th September 23:09

Edited by Escy on Wednesday 6th September 23:11

[Escy]

I put a battery on it and used my diagnostics to code it in. Initially I was getting the same errors and the gear selector wouldn't raise up. I did a few bits on the diagnostics like re-setting the learned data for the gearbox, general aimless messing about like that. I tried turning the selector while it was in the down position and I thought I felt a click. On the next start it popped up fine, all the codes could then be cleared. The gear selector felt a bit different, it didn't have the same notchy feel when going through the range.

I hadn't had a chance to ponder it much before my wife called me up to say it'd broken down again. Luckily this time on our driveway. The gear selector was stuck in drive now and the engine wouldn't start. The gearbox itself wasn't stuck in drive as I used the cable pull in the engine bay to manually put in in neutral, you'd feel it release if it was in drive.

Looking around on the internet there are loads of problems with these selectors which are used right throughout the JLR range. Looks like there is a plastic selector that gets damaged, you can buy an upgraded aluminium part from China.

I took mine out to investigate.

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Turns out mine is a completely different design internally when I stripped it down. I couldn't see any damage so put it back together. There's a plastic cog that needed to be rotated so it would go back into the park position. This cog is on the gear position switch but it also slots onto the main shaft I can't work out what caused this.

As it stands the selector now feels how it should be and the car runs fine again. I guess the plan is drive it as normal and see what happens. I think it'll be ok for the time being but I'll buy another selector.

This little episode has made me reflect on the plan to just run 2 cars. My Boxster is a 2 seater so it's usefulness is limited and my wife can barely drive it. If the Jaguar is down we are screwed. All the eggs are in one basket and that basket has an engine that sounds like a cement mixer. The recovery driver commented that it's the worst sounding one he'd heard.

[Escy]

I forgot to mention there is a TSB released by Jaguar for the initial problem I had. Maybe I'll give them a call tomorrow, see if there is a firmware update available.

This SSM applies to Rotary Transmission Control Switch Module (TCS) / Gear Shift Module (GSM) in the above applicable model years vehicles. Rotary Gear Shift Module selector operation is unavailable following a low voltage event -accompanied by DTC P085D-97 in the GSM. As a consequence the Rotary Knob will not rise and so normal operation is prevented. Please do not replace the GSM until this procedure has been completed and verified. GSM's have been replaced previously when this software will fix the issue. Rotary Gear Shift Module self-learning routine is interrupted during a low voltage event

[Escy]

Speed 3 said:

...there's your bad battery hint.

Yeah, that's why I posted it as it's a perfect description of what happened. It doesn't explain the subsequent issue on the shifter.

tight fart said:

I put one of these in my camper as it’s so easy to get a flat battery while off grid.
I know it’s very basic but would it help to keep an eye on the battery level?

This is the odd thing with modern cars, objectively you'd say the battery was fine, it was showing good voltage never dropped low when I'd spend ages with the ignition on with diagnostics connected. The voltage figure itself doesn't tell you much, I think that's why battery testers are quite expensive. Must be a couple of bad cells in it. The diagnostics were reporting 80% capacity. I did expect when I bought originally I'd need a battery as it was flat as a pancake.

[Escy]

I spoke to Jaguar, there is no firmware update available for the car. They did offer me a diagnostic report at £205, as tempting as that is, I passed.

When I drive the car it's alright, when my wife drives it the selector goes faulty. It turns out when I turn the engine off, I put in park first. My wife just switches it off in drive or reverse and it puts itself back into park. That's the bit that's no longer happening. The selector is defiantly faulty, I've ordered another one that's coming Monday.

She drove it to Tesco earlier, she switched it off in reverse and it's stuck in reverse. That's when I worked out what she was doing different to me. I go down there with tools, strip it down and put it back together in the car park while she's shopping. I explain it all to her and that it needs to be in park. She then drives it home and turns off the engine whilst it's in gear again as she forgot. I was less than impressed and let her know! She's now refusing to drive it as she can't trust herself not to turn it off in gear. Unbelievable.

Cambs_Stuart said:

Just to pick up on the "engine sounds like a cement mixer" comment. Do you think that's a separate problem to the gearbox?

Yes, it's sounded horrible from day 1 and I'm not sure why. No sound in particular I can pick up, no tapping or knocking, it's just general loudness. That said there is maybe a bit if a rattle as you come off the throttle.

I wasn't happy with it and thought that rattle could have been chains so I pulled the engine back out, I replaced both camshafts (one had a scratched lobe from before, the other had been bodged by a previous owner). I replaced the VVT timing actuator (genuine) and chain and tensioners (aftermarket). I thought it might have been slightly better to start off with but that was probably wishful thinking on my part.

I think in terms of block, pistons, rods and crank I'm alright, it's done 5000 miles now, the oil was tested and came back all good. If it was eating itself up I think it'd have shown itself by now.

I had put the noise down to a leaking turbo to downpipe gasket but that seems alright now, no soot on the engine cover like there used to be.

Part of me still thinks it's chain related, it's the only thing that's going to create general loudness. Someone left a comment on my YouTube channel mentioning the tensioner was done wrong but they never followed up.

[Escy]

The replacement shifter got delivered today. Nice surprise as I thought it was coming Monday. I fitted it, coded it in and it's all good. Interestingly, to get it into sport mode you need to press down on the selector, my old one never needed to do this and I saw on a Facebook group people asking how you get into sport mode so it is how they should be. Mine must have been faulty all along.

stevemcs said:

We have a dead ingenium at work, we looked at getting an engine for it but they are currently on back order !

Turbo failed followed by low compression or rod knock?

Speed 3 said:

Oh I feel your pain. How many times I’ve told Mrs S3 to avoid an error on something- computer, phone, car, tv that has just then been blatantly ignored I’ve lost count of The really annoying thing is when they wouldn’t have done that in their previous car/phone/computer etc.

It just shows how the theatre of that gear selector slinking down creates an unnecessary reliability problem (yes, we were captivated by it in ours but we didn’t have failures)

I should have shown her how to fix it and left the tools in the car, I can guarantee she'd only forget once then. There's no need to think about what you are doing when there is a mechanic pixie that'll come and fix your car while you are shopping.

tight fart said:

Did you ever put a baffle back in the exhaust?
I seem to remember you removed the dpf and just welded the case back up empty.

I opened up the DPF and put a pipe through the middle of it so it's not a hollow chamber.

QBee said:

A friend of mine, without warning, sold her 2019 XC90 T8 and bought a 2019 ePace diesel ("200" on the back IIRC).
Does the ingenium issue still extend as far forwards as 2019 and the ePace?
If it does, what should I advise her to do apart from cry?

They revised the timing chain design in 2018 I think so it should be slightly less problematic. I'd advise regular oil changes and make sure she does some long journeys in it so the DPF clears itself.

Megaflow said:

Have you considered a slightly thicker oil for a few hundred miles? It might help prove where the noise is coming from

It might be worth trying.

I've been doing some research and I've got a feeling I've worked out why it's noisy. If it's what I think it is I'm going to look stupid on here so I won't expose myself as a mug until I know for sure.

[Escy]

A while back someone posted a comment on my YouTube video saying the chain tensioner wasn't done right, I asked them to explain what they meant and they never followed up. I hadn't give it much thought until I mentioned it on here the other day and it got me thinking, it would explain the loudness. I started looking around YouTube for a video showing how they should be done and I saw this video. It's at 6.50



He pushed it in and the tensioner pops out. I didn't do this!!!! Every other tensioner I've seen has had a pin you pull out. When I screwed this tensioner in, it did make the chain tight, the tensioner has a oil feed so I'd assumed it was just going to pump up when the engine ran like a hydraulic tappet. I feel stupid writing this but you learn from your mistakes and I won't make this one again.

Knowing this was likely the reason for the loudness I decided to get the top cover off the back of the engine, as an exploration mission, thinking I'd be surveying damage and making a list of parts for next weekend. I was expecting I'd be pulling the engine back out. It was a nightmare to do, I cut my arms and hands to ribbons.

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As soon as the cover was off I confirmed this was the issue, the chain was slack, it wasn't slack when it went together before. I had noticed the engine had been getting progressively louder. It was a pleasant surprise that the chain guides were fine, the chain was slack enough I could get a proper look. I tried to push the tensioner in like he did on the video but I couldn't, probably as it's full of oil now. I had to remove the tensioner and put it in a vice to release it. It's fully extended in this picture, I just screwed it back in like that and pinched together the little wire clip on it so it would allow the rod to push back in as I tightened it up.

IMG_20230910_190911719

It sounds decent now, just like any other diesel. It's such a relief, I'll be much more relaxed when driving it. I've definately taken the scenic route to fixing it but at least it's where it should be now. Although it's done a few thousand miles I hadn't considered the re-build a success as it sounded so rough, I do now.

One thing left to do is sort the AC, I changed the compressor with a used unit and it's showing a fault on the clutch circuit and it's not working (although I can engage the clutch with my diagnostics). I'll probably need to get another compressor.

Edited by Escy on Monday 11th September 07:53

Edited by Escy on Monday 11th September 07:54

Edited by Escy on Monday 11th September 07:55

[Escy]

tvrfan007 said:

A good lesson learned. Hard sometimes to know the genuinely helpful comments from the snide ones, said YouTube comment could've at least explained what to do! Video above doesn't seem to work for me to see.

Any lasting damage from the slack chain? Guessing not if it's sounding good!

I've edited the link. I think I've got away with it but it wouldn't have helped the service life of the chain. I've not ruled out pulling the gearbox off and re-doing the chains. It should be a days work and the parts are < £150. It's just finding the time.

[Escy]

Last weekend I decided to change the chains again, just to put my mind at rest that there was no damage. Rather than pull the engine I removed the gearbox this time. It wasn't too bad, didn't need to remove the exhaust or the front prop shaft, plenty of space as it's a small engine in a big chassis.

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There was no damage or even signs of wear to the chain guides. It was ultimately a waste of time (and £250) but at least I know it's done now.

I decided to give it some fresh oil.

IMG_20230917_204349079

Then I put a pair of tyres on it and got the wheel alignment done. When I was doing the chains I replaced the A/C compressor, the last one was showing a permanent fault on the AC clutch (It's not actually clutched, but that's what the diagnostics say). I took it to get it gassed up. The replacement compressor shows the same fault still. I need to get hold of some wiring diagrams and check the wiring at some point.

This week I started to notice some oil marks on the driveway. I cleaned the bottom of the car and I can see a drip coming from the bottom of the bellhousing. Could be the silicone sealant on the timing case cover but from the position of the dripping it seems more likely to be the rear crank seal.

This was the state of the last one, it was leaking a bit although not badly. It'd only been fitted a few months ago when I last did the chains. The one I fitted the first time I re-built the engine also leaked a small amount. Neither of these leaks were bad enough to make it to the driveway.

IMG_20230917_105602604

So it's looking like the gearbox is coming back off this weekend before I ruin the driveway even more than the Boxster has managed to do.

I've ordered a genuine seal this time. The last one came in the timing chain kit and was aftermarket. The others I used were also aftermarket. It's really frustrating, I've got the special tool to fit the seals and it's pretty simple as the seals come with a plastic piece inside that sits on the crank. The crank itself doesn't have any groves on it that you can feel. I'm putting them in dry and the workshop manual says to make sure the mating surfaces are clean.

[Escy]

It sounds like a blocked DPF but knowing how these engines can die I'd check the turbo is ok and there is still oil in the sump.

[Escy]

The Jaguar had a really bad oil leak so reluctantly I had to take the gearbox off.

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This wasn't as straightforward as last time, the gearbox fell off my transmission jack.

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No serious damage as it was a bit of a slow motion slide off the side and shimmy down the wall.

Getting it back up off the floor was a monumental challenge on my own, I used the winch to help me but it wasn't easy.

IMG_20230930_184632271_HDR

Luckily no major damage but it cracked the plastic sump/filter. Euro Car Parts stay open late on a Saturday afternoon which was fortunate. They had a gearbox service kit in stock. That was £270 which takes my spend on the car to £800 in 3 weeks (timing chain and Tyres also).

IMG_20231001_200358289

I resealed the timing chain cover and put it all back together. Took it for a test drive, all good, no fault codes, doesn't seem to be any leaks. I thought it was


My wife took it to work this morning and rang me saying the engine had cut out. I went to rescue her, she took my Boxster to work and I'm with the Jaguar as I write this.

IMG_20231002_094342094

Recovery has been a nightmare. Took 45 minutes on the phone to get through to someone, they sent someone out an hour later who came in a van, he arrived at about the same time as the police did. The recovery guy couldn't help, called for a flat bed, they didn't have one, he left it to the police and left.

The police were going to use some company that take it miles away and charge a £200. Luckily I convinced them to let me roll it down the hill out of the way. I've been into the recovery company 3 times over the last few hours asking what's happening, they say the recovery had been cancelled and they'll pass me onto customer services. They never do. I've just called up and registered a new breakdown now, waiting for the same company that abandoned me originally to turn up. Not sure how that's, going to pan out.

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Regarding the car, the only fault code on the engine was MAF signal which you'd expect when an engine cuts out. The diagnostics had no communication with the transmission which was strange. I unplugged the gearbox loom and plugged it back in. It's now seeing it.

The engine turns over, you get a little splutter on initial cranking then it turns over fast. Feels like no compression. Fuel pressure in the rail is good. The breakdown guy who arrived looked through the oil cap and said the cam isn't turning. I checked on my diagnostics and I can't see anything on the cam sensor which suggests the same.

If you've worked on a car and it breaks down shortly after its nearly always something you've done. It's looking like a timing chain problem. I didn't touch the chains this weekend though.

Looking like part 2 of this engine saga might be coming up...

In the mean time I need to go out and buy a car.

[Escy]

I'm running out of patience. It's not lost on me that a few of the issues are down to incompetence on my part. I guess I'm learning as I go. I didn't set the chain tensioner properly, I dropped the gearbox, it's my fault it was leaking oil, I can't blame the car for these things but it is starting to wear me down.

I did joke with the copper that if someone went into the back of it, it would solve a lot of problems for me.

I got back.

IMG_20231002_122543641

[Escy]

I've bought a car this afternoon. I looked on Facebook for what's local and cheap, saw an EOS advertised for £1000 (from a trader), 2.0 diesel, roof works, 170k on the clock so it's seen some action. Told him and give him the asking price if he'd deliver it to me which he did. Probably looks better in the photo than in the flesh but it drives really well. It's going to have to try hard to be more unreliable than the Jag is proving to be.

IMG_20231002_175531037

So now the pressure is off a bit. I had a look at the Jag. Started off by removing the top timing cover. I cranked it over and the chains moved so they weren't broken. I didn't expect it as the breakdown guy that came out and had a look at it said the intake cam wasn't turning (he looked through the oil filler). Next up was to check the timing, I put the crank where it should be, then tried to put the timing tools on cams and the intake camshaft was in the wrong position. I put a socket on the bolt at the end and I could see through the oil filler it was turning. Turned it a little bit too far and it sprung forward on a lobe but the sprocket stayed where it was!

On closer inspection I realised the sprocket had broken.

Screenshot_20231002-214932

This seems a pretty random failure, the sprocket has sheared. The bolt was tight and it was a brand new bolt. The pulley was new a couple of months ago when I last had the engine out to do the chains (the previous owner had bodged the old sprocket, I ended up fitting a new inlet camshaft also). Since then the chain had been running with the tensioner not set correctly. Maybe that weakened it but usually a loose chain wears the sprocket teeth, these are fine. The chain kit I bought was a cheap one off eBay, possibly just made out of poor quality metal or a manufacturing defect.

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I'm surprised the locating pin on the camshaft hasn't snapped as they are tiny. The obvious worry is I've damaged the valves or broken the rockers. I don't know if these engines are interference or not and google isn't coming up with an answer.

I've turned the camshaft all the way around and you can feel it pushing the valves open (as it springs forward once you go past the lobe). I don't want to count my chickens but I may have gotten away with this. I'm thinking I'll put a new sprocket on it and see what happens.

[Escy]

tight fart said:

Court_S said:

That’s an absolute pisser OP.

Will you persevere with it or get it running and move it on?

My guess would be someone else making that decision for him.

Fingers crossed it’s something simple. (And cheap)

To be fair my wife hasn't been moaning about it or putting any extra pressure on over the fact it's left her stranded twice in a month also the last 2 weekends she's been stuck at home while I work on it. I know if my mum had a car that broke down on her twice, she'd refuse to drive it anymore. I think she'll happily carry on using it.

I'm not sure if I stick or twist at this point. On one hand, the engine is freshly re-built and (in theory) a known quantity to me, it's got a brand new OEM turbo, all the DPF issues are no longer a factor, gearbox has just been serviced, it's had a new battery and 4 new tyres. In my mind it should give trouble free motoring for the foreseeable (but I'd have said the same Sunday evening). On the other hand it's kicking me in the bks constantly.

I-am-the-reverend said:

That's why you only ever use genuine or Febi boxed (JWIS) chain kits.

None of that FAI or BGA crap.

Buying the car only makes sense if I can fix it for less than the market value. It'd be nice to buy all my parts from JLR but it's not viable, I need to pick and choose what I get from JLR and what I get aftermarket. The chain kit is 3x more than an aftermarket kit. With 20/20 hindsight buying a cheap kit looks a bad move. My theory was I'm not going to be keeping it for 10 years and 100k miles so it shouldn't make any difference. I should have gone for a decent branded kit (although I think half these kits probably come out of the same factory and get put in different colour boxes).

Fastdruid said:

All diesels[1] are interference. It's a function of the compression ratio.

I didn't know that, thanks.

QBee said:

I particularly love the clear, huge pictures that our hero posts - they really make it live, along with his well crafted prose.

Thanks. More prat than hero but I'll take the well crafted prose, I got a D for my English GCSE.

Austin_Metro said:

Best of wishes Escy. EOS looks good for a grand. Another thread on that?!

Unlikely, if I've got to turn a spanner on it then it's been a bad buy.

I have got a thread on the last EOS I bought. I didn't finish off the thread but the windscreen ended up cracked, it needed a few little bits and pieces doing, I decided to break it for parts (and it did quite well) - https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

PistonTim said:

You think a BKD engined MK5 Golf TDI in drag is going to be more reliable that the jag?

The engine sounds nicer! The purchase of the EOS was under duress, I sorted it out at the side of the road while waiting for recovery. I'm not in the position to be choosey. I couldn't even get myself there to view it, I needed it delivered to me. All that mattered was it runs tidy and it does, it drives really well. I wanted to buy something cheap and cheerful as I didn't know what the fault on the Jag was, I could be looking at the whole engine being totally mullered (and it still could be if it's snapped a head off a valve which has dug into the cylinder wall).

The EOS is worth more in parts than I paid for it so I figure I can't lose on it. All I need is for it to last until the Jaguar is back up and running. I had 2 missed calls from my wife this morning and my arse fell out, I instantly assumed the EOS had packed up. She rang to tell me it was so smooth to drive.

RC1807 said:

wow, I've never seen that before - but I'm not as competent with the spanners as many here.

good luck - again - Escy!

Neither have I. I decided to message a few JLR specialists with pictures, 3 out of the 4 places have seen it before so it's not actually that rare after all. It seems a really odd failure. I just can't see how it happens. Which has got me thinking, is the sheared sprocket the cause of the failure or actually the result of it? Kind of similar to when I remove the cam cover. If I'm looking at a load of broken rockers, it's not the rockers that failed, they are a sacrificial part in piston to valve contact.

None of the specialists replied when I asked the cause of a sheared sprocket which is understandable. They did all say I'll have bent valves or damaged rockers so my plan to fit another sprocket and try it is out of the window. I'll pull the cam cover off and see what It's like. Hopefully a few rockers as I can't stomach pulling the head back off it.

MB140 said:

Yeah he has a thread running in his Porsche boxster with a 400bhp+ Audi v6 turbo engine in it somewhere on here.

Not to mention the previous attempt which burst in to flames.

I always love reading the OP bread especially when you consider he’s an accountant or something like that and has no formal mechanic training.

I’m always amazed at what he achieves. I wish some professional mechanics were as competent as he appears to be (here’s hoping the timing failure isn’t something he’s caused).

Good luck OP.

That + is doing some heavy lifting, I'd probably over 550bhp

I'm a dental technician, if I was an accountant I wouldn't need to buy broken cars!

I can't see how this latest failure is my fault, the timing is correct, the broken sprocket was still lined up on the timing tools.

[Escy]

When the turbo goes the engine tends to go also. That was the original failure on mine. Turbo went, engine ended up with scored bores and needed pistons.

I'd see if you can get it compression tested before changing the turbo.

[Escy]

Sheepshanks said:

I wondered if something had caused the sprocket to break - but didn't you say the camshaft rotated fine?

I can rotate the camshaft, I can feel all 4 valves opening, they all feel the same. I don't think there is any damage. My wife said it didn't cut out, the engine lost power and she turned it off.

I've noticed there is a grove worn into the upper timing case cover plate. I can also see marks on the casting either side of the camshaft (green lines)

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I'm not sure if any of the marks are significant or not, the chain eating into the cam cover might be old, I think I've seen it previously but I can't remember. There's no metal fragments about near the chains, inside the cover, etc. so I don't think it's fresh.

With the marks on head being either side if of the cam in the same place, it seems more like some a cam holding tool has done it rather than by a foreign object flying around. I wasn't missing any bolts when it went back together. When it was last apart (Saturday), everything on the timing chain was present and correct. Both locating dowel pins are still in the top cover/head.

I think I am just going to put a sprocket on and see what happens. I bought one off eBay, new genuine part. They are £130 from the dealer, £55 on eBay. I was thinking, I bought my crank seal and the VVT actuator (exhaust cam) all off eBay, half the price both genuine and brand new in boxes. I had initially assumed people had bought stuff they'd not used and were selling at a loss. It's suddenly occurred to me, it's all probably making it's way out of the back door at the factory?!

[Escy]

The crank seal and VVT actuator weren't counterfeit. This is the sprocket.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274705491986?mkcid=16&a...

[Escy]

Cambs_Stuart said:

Could the mark on the cover be linked to how noisy the engine was? Where does that mark sit? It looks like it's between the two camshafts, so I was wondering what would be rubbing against it. Loose chain?

Yeah, it makes sense.

[Escy]

skwdenyer said:

It occurs to me that the original head photographs seemed to *suggest* some rocker-head contact, and very tight clearances. I may be mis-remembering.

Is it possible that rocker-head contact (if only sometimes under certain load / heat conditions) leads to an overload situation at the sprocket?

The fact that this engine (or ah-hem parts of it) had a previous bodged cam sprocket in this location gives me pause, too, hence thoughts of rockers and head casting. Maybe there were parts versions; maybe the previous owner (or one before that) ended up with mismatched parts and a tolerance issue somewhere?

In the alternate, I wonder what the failure surface of that sprocket looks like under a microscope. Is it a fatigue failure? Is there evidence of crack propagation? FOD (foreign object damage)? Poor manufacture, poor material quality, poor heat treatment, etc.?

The tensioner issue you had may have been a contribution in some circumstances - a fluctuating load / flapping chain might have led to high cyclical loads on the sprocket, resulting in a fatigue failure. But you need a friendly expert with a microscope to assist there. If it were me, I would probably bottom that one out first before getting to work, only because failure mode might point you in the direction of the cause.

There was valve spring to head contact on the original cylinder head. On the replacement head there wasn't although a couple of the springs did look a bit closer to the head casting than the others. Other than the cam carrier/rocker cover casting, the rest of it has been changed. I had the low mileage head and I swapped out the cams the last time the engine was out of the car. I'd say the most relevant tolerance would be measuring camshaft end play, it mentions it in the workshop manual but I couldn't see any measurement values in it.

I wouldn't have a clue where I could go to get in in depth inspection of failed sprocket. One thing I have noticed is the OEM sprocket has discoloration around the teeth so it looks like it has a heat treatment. My cheap sprocket doesn't have the same discoloration. I'm hoping the old one was just poor quality.

ingenieur said:

I suppose if you're searching for an explanation for why that cam sprocket self-destructed one possible theory might be that in a situation where the chain is lose one sprocket might be taking all the torque when ordinarily with proper chain tension the torque would be spread more evenly between the two.

A slack chain certainly wouldn't have improved it's durability, hopefully this combined with the part being low quality explains the failure.

shalmaneser said:

Are you going to try a compression test to see if the valves are bent?

I can't do anything at the moment as I don't want to move the engine and risk losing the timing. I'm waiting on the sprocket to arrive. I figure when I fit the new sprocket and put the chain back on I may as well turn it over by hand, if it does a rotation without issue I'll attempt to start it. I'm currently feeling quite positive about it just being the sprocket and no other damage, based on how the inlet cam feels when I rotate it and the fact the engine was switched off rather than stopped running suddenly.

ingenieur said:

Personally if it were me, I'd be favouring holding on to it for all the reasons mentioned by the OP. i.e. better the devil you know.

This is where I am currently, going to fix it and see how we get on. Naively, I feel like it's got a load of trouble free motoring in it.

It's given me a tough time lately but lots of it is on me. The timing chain tensioner not being set correctly was my fault, I elected to change the chains (wish I hadn't bothered now) which lead to the oil leak so my fault again. Dropping the gearbox while sorting that leak out damaged gearbox sump. I've spent loads of time on it this month and it's been one thing after the other but I could see the light at the end of the tunnel. The fact the very next day the cam sprocket shears has left me feeling exacerbated. I'll probably be proved wrong but I don't think this one is my fault. I'm not raging over it, just frustrated. I've spent £1240 on it within the last month and it's been on the back of a flat bed twice. Add in the extra £1000 + £400 insurance for the EOS, I'm haemorrhaging money at the moment.

The reason I've not spat my dummy out is I think I might be on for an easy fix. If it turns out to be more serious and the engine ends up back in bits, I will probably fix it and move it on. I'm into the car for just over 13k now, more than I wanted to be but still a bit less than market value so I'm not in a terrible place financially (unless the engine is toast, then I am).

As an endeavour it's been a failure. At this point, even I fix it with just a sprocket and get a load of trouble free motoring out of it, I've wasted too much time on it which could have been put to better use. The fact I've needed to buy another car to cover it's arse hammers that point home.

I forgot to mention before. When I bought the EOS the trader had a Jaguar F-Pace on the lot. Guess what? Broken engine....

[Escy]

My new sprocket arrived. I fitted it and started up the engine. It runs fine so I guess I got lucky. Anyone want to buy a scruffy EOS?!

IMG_20231005_175432981

I had a look at my A/C issue, I've got a permanent fault code for compressor clutch circuit open. I traced the wire from the plug back to the climate control ECU, and it was fine. I can activate the clutch with a battery connected to it directly. If I activate it on my diagnostics there's no change in voltage so I'm working off the theory there's a fault on the ECU. I've ordered a replacement.