Peugeot 205 XR
Discussion
This is true. I've been offered a replacement 1.4 but not sure i really have the space for an engine replacement, plus would need to buy a hoist (again...).
I'm not even sure where to start. Where does one buy replacement valves etc? What tools do i need? Is it just a matter of carefully following the Haynes instructions?
I'm not even sure where to start. Where does one buy replacement valves etc? What tools do i need? Is it just a matter of carefully following the Haynes instructions?
So something else to ponder. On the advice of someone on another forum, I put a drop of oil down Cylinder 3 and re-ran the test. Improved to 11.2 bar.
Seems to suggest that bore or piston wear is the cause rather than a bent valve - http://www.peugeot205.ru/peugeot205-43.html.
Does this change the prognosis?
Seems to suggest that bore or piston wear is the cause rather than a bent valve - http://www.peugeot205.ru/peugeot205-43.html.
Does this change the prognosis?
It does run!
http://imgur.com/gallery/e3YqfWR
There was a definite rattle on start up and a slight thrum of an odd noise in the background after a minute or so.
http://imgur.com/gallery/e3YqfWR
There was a definite rattle on start up and a slight thrum of an odd noise in the background after a minute or so.
?So I decided to get it off my drive and take it for a spin.
At first I wondered what on earth I'd broke, it was making some very odd noises at low speeds. Turns out front wheel bolts were only finger tight ... :O
After that ... it drove beautifully. Still won't idle with the choke fully in - almost - but hopefully it just needs adjusted. It felt sprightlier than I remembered pre-carb rebuild, didn't stall, gearbox snickety smooth with the new gearbox oil and driveshafts, suspension lovely and compliant over speed bumps, such a shame I broke it (or almost broke it....?!?!?!).
When hot the exhaust wasn't smoking, but there was certainly a 'thrum' (if that's the word) from the engine, almost like a very quiet intermittent backfire maybe, not experienced enough to know exactly what the noise is.
See if you can hear it in this video - http://imgur.com/gallery/dW2aZMH
Almost tempted to take it into the office tomorrow to see what's what, but breaking down in the Blackwall Tunnel would be less than ideal, and knowing my luck ...
Oh one minor problem - my bodge driver seat fix doesn't let the seat go fully forward. If you were shorter than me you'd struggle to drive it. Is that an MOT fail ...?
?
At first I wondered what on earth I'd broke, it was making some very odd noises at low speeds. Turns out front wheel bolts were only finger tight ... :O
After that ... it drove beautifully. Still won't idle with the choke fully in - almost - but hopefully it just needs adjusted. It felt sprightlier than I remembered pre-carb rebuild, didn't stall, gearbox snickety smooth with the new gearbox oil and driveshafts, suspension lovely and compliant over speed bumps, such a shame I broke it (or almost broke it....?!?!?!).
When hot the exhaust wasn't smoking, but there was certainly a 'thrum' (if that's the word) from the engine, almost like a very quiet intermittent backfire maybe, not experienced enough to know exactly what the noise is.
See if you can hear it in this video - http://imgur.com/gallery/dW2aZMH
Almost tempted to take it into the office tomorrow to see what's what, but breaking down in the Blackwall Tunnel would be less than ideal, and knowing my luck ...
Oh one minor problem - my bodge driver seat fix doesn't let the seat go fully forward. If you were shorter than me you'd struggle to drive it. Is that an MOT fail ...?
?
Edited by Cascade360 on Thursday 2nd September 17:28
?So I decided to get it off my drive and take it for a spin.
At first I wondered what on earth I'd broke, it was making some very odd noises at low speeds. Turns out front wheel bolts were only finger tight ... ??
After that ... it drove beautifully. Still won't idle with the choke fully in - almost - but hopefully it just needs adjusted. It felt sprightlier than I remembered pre-carb rebuild, didn't stall, gearbox snickety smooth with the new gearbox oil and driveshafts, suspension lovely and compliant over speed bumps, such a shame I broke it (or almost broke it....?!?!?!).
When hot the exhaust wasn't smoking, but there was certainly a 'thrum' (if that's the word) from the engine, almost like a very quiet intermittent backfire maybe, not experienced enough to know exactly what the noise is.
See if you can hear it in this video - http://imgur.com/gallery/PFUGZBm
Almost tempted to take it into the office tomorrow to see what's what, but breaking down in the Blackwall Tunnel would be less than ideal, and knowing my luck ...
Oh one minor problem - my bodge driver seat fix doesn't let the seat go fully forward. If you were shorter than me you'd struggle to drive it. Is that an MOT fail ...?
?
At first I wondered what on earth I'd broke, it was making some very odd noises at low speeds. Turns out front wheel bolts were only finger tight ... ??
After that ... it drove beautifully. Still won't idle with the choke fully in - almost - but hopefully it just needs adjusted. It felt sprightlier than I remembered pre-carb rebuild, didn't stall, gearbox snickety smooth with the new gearbox oil and driveshafts, suspension lovely and compliant over speed bumps, such a shame I broke it (or almost broke it....?!?!?!).
When hot the exhaust wasn't smoking, but there was certainly a 'thrum' (if that's the word) from the engine, almost like a very quiet intermittent backfire maybe, not experienced enough to know exactly what the noise is.
See if you can hear it in this video - http://imgur.com/gallery/PFUGZBm
Almost tempted to take it into the office tomorrow to see what's what, but breaking down in the Blackwall Tunnel would be less than ideal, and knowing my luck ...
Oh one minor problem - my bodge driver seat fix doesn't let the seat go fully forward. If you were shorter than me you'd struggle to drive it. Is that an MOT fail ...?
?
Edited by Cascade360 on Thursday 2nd September 17:32
Took it out for a slightly longer spin, bit of dual carriageway, caught in traffic for fifteen minutes. Drives fine. Certainly doesn't seem to be any loss of power - in fact it is a positively nippy little car. It still doesn't idle with the choke in - the problem I was having before I rebuilt the carb - but I haven't properly set it up since so perhaps it just needs adjustment. It is hard to tell if it is running okay if idling with the choke partially out though ...
Turns out that i have the same problem as before i rebuilt the carb - crack the idle jet open a fraction and it runs well. Ordered a new idle jet to see if that sorts it.
But im very happy it is now running and driving well! Not sure the noise i thought i heard is still there or not, sounds fine now. Sprightly little thing, had it out and about a bit locally today; time to get some miles under its belt!
Making my street look like its the early noughties again!
But im very happy it is now running and driving well! Not sure the noise i thought i heard is still there or not, sounds fine now. Sprightly little thing, had it out and about a bit locally today; time to get some miles under its belt!
Making my street look like its the early noughties again!
So as a bit of a chance I whipped the aux belt off to see if that made a difference. and after running it for ten minutes or so, I don't think I can hear the knocking noise - which I could hear this morning before taking the belt off. Not sure why an aux belt could cause a knocking noise ... or it could be coincidence.
Got a friend with more experience than me coming round to give me a 2nd opinion in person tonight hopefully
Got a friend with more experience than me coming round to give me a 2nd opinion in person tonight hopefully
Took it out for a bit of a longer spin sans aux belt and knocking still seems to be gone, which is a great coincidence.
Still think it is running rich - there's a bit of a burbling / throbbing noise from exhaust, starts up very easily when cold without much choke etc. I also think mpg must be terrible as I seem to have used half a tank of fuel and I've probably done 50 miles if that in it. But...it is not knocking
There is an alternator place near me that apparently will test your alternator for free so might whip it off and take it to them. The joys of the simple 205 - fairly sure it is two bolts and some wiring connectors and can do it without even jacking the car up.
Still think it is running rich - there's a bit of a burbling / throbbing noise from exhaust, starts up very easily when cold without much choke etc. I also think mpg must be terrible as I seem to have used half a tank of fuel and I've probably done 50 miles if that in it. But...it is not knocking
There is an alternator place near me that apparently will test your alternator for free so might whip it off and take it to them. The joys of the simple 205 - fairly sure it is two bolts and some wiring connectors and can do it without even jacking the car up.
Alternator off. That was very easy. Two bolts and contrary to Haynes you can do it from the top without taking the wheel off.
Hoping to take it to local place to test if good or not. If not, problem found and will replace. If good, might just need refitting carefully.
Experienced mate had a listen to the engine and his view is it seems to be misfiring ever so slightly but if it had a bent valve it would sound a hell of a lot worse so might not be related to screw incident. Provided it doesnt get worse and alternator sorts knock will probably drive it and see !
I bought a new idle jet to see if this would resolve the idling problem. It does not look like my old jet ...
I bought a size 45 one of these based on the following from the Haynes guide:
So not sure if I have bought the wrong one or if the existing one was wrong. It runs better on the old jet slightly cracked open, though this may be a set-up problem.
Problem is, the Haynes manual says that to set the idle mixture, I need to measure with an exhaust CO device and compare against manufacturer specifications - and I do not have an exhaust CO device. They are about 40 quid - does anyone know a way of setting it up without one?
I bought a size 45 one of these based on the following from the Haynes guide:
So not sure if I have bought the wrong one or if the existing one was wrong. It runs better on the old jet slightly cracked open, though this may be a set-up problem.
Problem is, the Haynes manual says that to set the idle mixture, I need to measure with an exhaust CO device and compare against manufacturer specifications - and I do not have an exhaust CO device. They are about 40 quid - does anyone know a way of setting it up without one?
TEKNOPUG said:
Get the engine to temp, adjust the idle jet until the engine idles at specified revs.
Does the carb have an adjustable idle jet and an idle adjustment screw?
If you've turned the idle jet through it's entire range and it has an effect but you still can't get it to idle properly, then the issue lies elsewhere.
I have an idle adjustment screw, which simply increases or decreases the amount of throttle applied at idle. I can adjust it when warm and the idle adjusts, and can get it to idle fine - but high. Does the carb have an adjustable idle jet and an idle adjustment screw?
If you've turned the idle jet through it's entire range and it has an effect but you still can't get it to idle properly, then the issue lies elsewhere.
I also have the idle jet, which I understand is not designed to be adjusted - but the car only idles correctly when it is cracked slightly. This seems to mean a problem with the idle mixture / idle circuit. This is what I sought to replace.
I then have the mixture screw, the adjusting of which doesn't seem to do very much.
I did find this diagram, which seems to give a method of adjusting mixture sans a CO device. It isn't for quite the right Solex carb however (seems to be 34 PBISA 16 rather than 34 PBISA 17), but may be a good starting point.
TEKNOPUG said:
What does it idle at when adjusted?
No tachometer but I would guess it is easily above 1000, maybe 1200?In other news, took the alternator to the local testing place this afternoon. Sadly...it is not broken and is not knocking! Chap said it was charging a bit slow and was clearly old and rotten inside but not knocking. Drat. So suppose I will refit carefully and hope the knock was caused by a loose bolt or something...
xstian said:
I wouldn't waste your money fitting a tacho, while you are still trying to get it to run right. It's a nice to have rather than need to have.
The idle jet should be screwed in tight, it may run better loose but how are you going to find the real problem if you don't have it fixed correctly.
Set your idle as low as it will go, even if it runs rough as long as it will keep idling. Then you can adjust the idle mixture screw, the manual should give you a base setting. Then adjust until it runs the smoothest normally this will be within 1 turn and then readjusted the idle to a smooth tick over.
You can't adjust the mixture screw if its idling too fast, it will seem like it is doing nothing. If the mixture screw still does nothing at very low idle, there is a problem elsewhere, probably a air leak. Should the mixture screw have an o-ring fitted?
This was super helpful, tried it this evening. The mixture screw was miles from where it is now. From a bit of tweaking and trial and error, I have managed to make it idle okay. See here - that is it idling hot with choke in after a run. It still isn't perfect - there is definitely a bit of an irregular hesitation. But it runs and drives fine which is good. This is on the old idle screw (and I've lost the bloody rubber gasket for it which I will need to try and locate).The idle jet should be screwed in tight, it may run better loose but how are you going to find the real problem if you don't have it fixed correctly.
Set your idle as low as it will go, even if it runs rough as long as it will keep idling. Then you can adjust the idle mixture screw, the manual should give you a base setting. Then adjust until it runs the smoothest normally this will be within 1 turn and then readjusted the idle to a smooth tick over.
You can't adjust the mixture screw if its idling too fast, it will seem like it is doing nothing. If the mixture screw still does nothing at very low idle, there is a problem elsewhere, probably a air leak. Should the mixture screw have an o-ring fitted?
Engine is very tappety - valve clearances is on my to do list.
I have also reinstalled the alternator and it doesn't seem to be knocking. Woohoo. Let's hope it stays that way.
One very minor annoyance - the analogue clock is SO BLOODY LOUD even with engine off. TICK TICK TICK TICK. Tried to take dash apart but thought I'd break something so stopped. Anyone experienced this before ...
Edited by Cascade360 on Wednesday 8th September 22:22
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