2001 Boxster S
Discussion
ATM said:
1. DAMP / LEAKS - Check Pollen Filter housing + the foam liner and rear drains
2. My legs did not fit - Fixed
3. Boomy exhaust - Standard exhaust is blowing a bit
4. Wheels and Tyres - Order some tyres
5. Engine / Gearbox mounts - might need to go somewhere for inspection or I could just change them
6. it's a bit lethargic below 5000 - Some people here have recommended a replacement MAF
7. Rattles / Clunks - I think from Suspension - might need to go somewhere for inspection
8. Gear shift sometimes feels out of alignment going from 2nd to 3rd
9. Air conditioning does not work - needs gassing or checking over - not a big deal to Me
10. Rear plastic window pierced - not too bothered about this for now as Hard Top is on
11. Keys damaged - will sort this
Mini Update2. My legs did not fit - Fixed
3. Boomy exhaust - Standard exhaust is blowing a bit
4. Wheels and Tyres - Order some tyres
5. Engine / Gearbox mounts - might need to go somewhere for inspection or I could just change them
6. it's a bit lethargic below 5000 - Some people here have recommended a replacement MAF
7. Rattles / Clunks - I think from Suspension - might need to go somewhere for inspection
8. Gear shift sometimes feels out of alignment going from 2nd to 3rd
9. Air conditioning does not work - needs gassing or checking over - not a big deal to Me
10. Rear plastic window pierced - not too bothered about this for now as Hard Top is on
11. Keys damaged - will sort this
3. Boomy exhaust - Standard exhaust is blowing a bit
The Standard exhaust was blowing at both u bends. Seem I did not fit it correctly. Now fixed. Car sounds very civilised now. It is obvious now that the loud exhaust was also blowing and that probably made it twice as loud. I still have this boom box in the garden and could retry it but I dont feel the need for more noise.
7. Rattles / Clunks
Fixed
Turns out this was the u bends for the exhaust. It was fitted wrong / badly / incorrect. Now all sorted. No clunks form the car now. Only some small rattles from the plastic trims of the hardtop. I stripped this all down and then rebuilt it. During the rebuild I think I broke some clips and some are maybe just tired. Now the plastic panels on the inside of the hardtop are flapping around a bit. I was not too bothered about this originally as I was just more focused on making sure it did not leak. Now the car is dry I can revisit this.
6. it's a bit lethargic below 5000 - Some people here have recommended a replacement MAF
Car is feeling much better now. Not sure if the exhaust blowing problems were was causing this or something else. But for now car feels fine - no it feels great. No hesitation can be felt. Drives nice, really nice.
4. Wheels and Tyres
I've fitted some 996 wheels to the car which became available. My mini project to use 16 inch rears is now in the bin as they did not fit. I had read that 16 inch 2.7 wheels do not fit over the brakes on the front wheel. I was hoping to use the 16 rears only but these hit the toe control arm where it mounts to the hub. So now I am back to the drawing board. The car drives much better with these 17 wheels that it did with the 18 setup. I was not sure if the colour would work but I am really liking the gold against the red. This is a Porsche colour used on some modern cars called Aurum Gold. I had these done for my 996 but for now I am not using them on that car.
Fixed
1. DAMP / LEAKS - Check Pollen Filter housing + the foam liner and rear drains
2. My legs did not fit - Fixed
3. Boomy exhaust - Standard exhaust is blowing a bit
4. Wheels and Tyres - Order some tyres
6. it's a bit lethargic below 5000 - Some people here have recommended a replacement MAF
7. Rattles / Clunks - I think from Suspension - might need to go somewhere for inspection
Still To Do
5. Engine / Gearbox mounts - might need to go somewhere for inspection or I could just change them
8. Gear shift sometimes feels out of alignment going from 2nd to 3rd
9. Air conditioning does not work - needs gassing or checking over - not a big deal to Me
10. Rear plastic window pierced - not too bothered about this for now as Hard Top is on
11. Keys damaged - will sort this
12. Rattles from hard top trim panels
13. I might try a Momo type wheel from my 996 and see if this feels better
14. I might remove the lower centre console - I wont fit a console delete first I will just try with it removed - and see if the car feels better
ATM said:
5. Engine / Gearbox mounts - might need to go somewhere for inspection or I could just change them
Its clear just by looking at where your exhaust tips sit that the two rear gearbox mounts have had it (remember the exhaust is rigid mounted to the engine+box, doesnt attach to the body anywhere). Yep pretty easy. You can see them on two 'wings' or brackets either side of the transmission. Perfectly doable on the driveway with a jack and basic tools. Back wheels off and I recall you undo the driveshafts at the inboard end for access, 8mm allen socket i seem to recall.
OE parts are fluid filled and not cheap, you can also use 993 RS style engine mounts - a 986 transmission mount is the same p/n as a 996 engine mount.
Can't find the receipt but it was these I used: https://type911shop.co.uk/964-/-993-/-996-/-997-RS...
And the generally agreed option is to replace the 986 front engine mount with the 987 piece which bolts right on and is a better design.
Made a huge difference on my car, particularly to the gear change feel.
OE parts are fluid filled and not cheap, you can also use 993 RS style engine mounts - a 986 transmission mount is the same p/n as a 996 engine mount.
Can't find the receipt but it was these I used: https://type911shop.co.uk/964-/-993-/-996-/-997-RS...
And the generally agreed option is to replace the 986 front engine mount with the 987 piece which bolts right on and is a better design.
Made a huge difference on my car, particularly to the gear change feel.
ATM said:
snotrag said:
Its clear just by looking at where your exhaust tips sit that the two rear gearbox mounts have had it (remember the exhaust is rigid mounted to the engine+box, doesnt attach to the body anywhere).
Is it a simple job to replace these?I have not researched it yet.
With regards to your rear screen issues. I can recommend Hubbard Upholstery based in Loughborough. Fantastic service replacing my rear screen a couple of weeks ago. Only took two hours and was a very fair price. Screen was replaced with OEM quality thick green tinted plastic.
Worth a journey if you are not close. I found him through recommendations on the 986 FaceBook Group.
Worth a journey if you are not close. I found him through recommendations on the 986 FaceBook Group.
microgod said:
With regards to your rear screen issues. I can recommend Hubbard Upholstery based in Loughborough. Fantastic service replacing my rear screen a couple of weeks ago. Only took two hours and was a very fair price. Screen was replaced with OEM quality thick green tinted plastic.
Worth a journey if you are not close. I found him through recommendations on the 986 FaceBook Group.
I think I have a little rip in the hood itself. Let me see if I have a pic.....Worth a journey if you are not close. I found him through recommendations on the 986 FaceBook Group.
microgod said:
Mine was a straight screen replacement but it would be worth contacting him to see if that small rip could be repaired.
If its a new roof it would be worth looking in to a glass screen upgrade. I was quoted around £1200 - £1500 for that from various suppliers.
I go back and forward on the glass window roof thing. Sometimes I think keeping it all original looking is best seeing as its 22 years old now. I know the Boxster Chop thing is a pain but maybe with a nice new piece of plastic I wouldn't need to bother?If its a new roof it would be worth looking in to a glass screen upgrade. I was quoted around £1200 - £1500 for that from various suppliers.
I have not tried dropping the roof with the new screen yet as it was dropping the roof that broke the last one 
The trimmer advised that I will need to do the boxster chop and for the first few folds help it fold correctly. Once it has folded a few times it should "learn" where to fold neatly.
I prefer the look of the plastic screen but if I had the need to replace the roof I'd go glass. They were glass from 2003 anyway so shouldn't ruin the originality
The trimmer advised that I will need to do the boxster chop and for the first few folds help it fold correctly. Once it has folded a few times it should "learn" where to fold neatly.
I prefer the look of the plastic screen but if I had the need to replace the roof I'd go glass. They were glass from 2003 anyway so shouldn't ruin the originality
microgod said:
I prefer the look of the plastic screen but if I had the need to replace the roof I'd go glass. They were glass from 2003 anyway so shouldn't ruin the originality
Dont wanna sound too nerdy / OCD'ish but the roof line is different on the glass roof. Side profile is different. The mechanism has an extra metal support. I think its 4 bars glass compared to 3 for placcy. Just compare some side on pics and you should see it. More rounded or bubble like with the glass.You're right, The OEM roof is 4 bars. I believe these are able to straight swap with the older roof so most people try and get hold of a 2nd hand roof.
The glass screen upgrade in place of the plastic window results in you having a smaller rear window to allow it to fold. I think there might be other mods needed to but I can't remember. The quotes I had were to modify the existing roof to accept a glass screen.
The glass screen upgrade in place of the plastic window results in you having a smaller rear window to allow it to fold. I think there might be other mods needed to but I can't remember. The quotes I had were to modify the existing roof to accept a glass screen.
snotrag said:
Yep pretty easy. You can see them on two 'wings' or brackets either side of the transmission. Perfectly doable on the driveway with a jack and basic tools. Back wheels off and I recall you undo the driveshafts at the inboard end for access, 8mm allen socket i seem to recall.
OE parts are fluid filled and not cheap, you can also use 993 RS style engine mounts - a 986 transmission mount is the same p/n as a 996 engine mount.
Can't find the receipt but it was these I used: https://type911shop.co.uk/964-/-993-/-996-/-997-RS...
And the generally agreed option is to replace the 986 front engine mount with the 987 piece which bolts right on and is a better design.
Made a huge difference on my car, particularly to the gear change feel.
Well I've noticed that my driveshaft gaitors are cracked or split on both sides so I'll probably do all of this at the same time. Is it easy enough to replace these gaitors, has anyone here also done this?OE parts are fluid filled and not cheap, you can also use 993 RS style engine mounts - a 986 transmission mount is the same p/n as a 996 engine mount.
Can't find the receipt but it was these I used: https://type911shop.co.uk/964-/-993-/-996-/-997-RS...
And the generally agreed option is to replace the 986 front engine mount with the 987 piece which bolts right on and is a better design.
Made a huge difference on my car, particularly to the gear change feel.
If it’s the inboard ones then it’ll be pretty straightforward - the inner flange is attached to the gearbox flange with 6 or 8 socket cap bolts which you’ll be undoing to do the mounts anyway. The gaiter would just slip off the end.
However if it’s the outer joints you’ll be splitting the driveshaft from the hub which is much more of a job with potential for pain!
However if it’s the outer joints you’ll be splitting the driveshaft from the hub which is much more of a job with potential for pain!
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