Knackered old Porsche with loads of miles - 996 content
Discussion
Slippydiff said:
I’m thinking of lashing out on a set, but it looks like OZ are phasing them out/ceasing production, so availability is proving problematical currently.
I still have a good relationship with OZ from buying pallets of single seater wheels for several years so happy to ask and find out what the deal is. There is a lot of stuff going on long lead times at the moment but I believe it's energy/raw material related rather than a push to thin the range. Slippydiff said:
Tyre availability is a ‘mare too.
In GT3 sizes absolutely, AD08R was my absolute go to and the car loved them but alas no more! Slippydiff said:
I really want to try a set of Continental Extreme Contact Sports, but they’re US market only, despite being E marked ...
I spoke to Continental UK about getting a set, but they were adamant they were US supplied only ...
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/continental-extremeco...
These look like they could be an excellent option! I don't have much to do with Conti's tyre side of things but let me see if I can get a steer on what the chances are of these making their way over the pond.I spoke to Continental UK about getting a set, but they were adamant they were US supplied only ...
https://m.tirerack.com/tires/continental-extremeco...
Good thread derail though! I hope google indexes PH as that's absolutely going to be of benefit to someone in the future 
So latest update, it's not a big one I'm afraid....
Wheels have had a proper going over and clean, they've come up amazingly well so very pleased with that. Hats off to OZ they're harder wearing than the Braids on the Cayenne!
Dragons Blood is an amazing but particularly stinky wheel cleaner!
And the rest of the assortment of bodywork fasteners and clips have arrived:
Including some fresh side repeaters as they've been in and out one too many times for 20 odd year old plastic
So that's it now, it's off to the bodyshop - likely to be there for a few weeks then once back there's a couple of days of putting back together to do/final assembly.
With a bit of luck it'll be back together for Easter - I'll update you all when there's something to show
So latest update, it's not a big one I'm afraid....
Wheels have had a proper going over and clean, they've come up amazingly well so very pleased with that. Hats off to OZ they're harder wearing than the Braids on the Cayenne!
Dragons Blood is an amazing but particularly stinky wheel cleaner!
And the rest of the assortment of bodywork fasteners and clips have arrived:
Including some fresh side repeaters as they've been in and out one too many times for 20 odd year old plastic
So that's it now, it's off to the bodyshop - likely to be there for a few weeks then once back there's a couple of days of putting back together to do/final assembly.
With a bit of luck it'll be back together for Easter - I'll update you all when there's something to show
WojaWabbit said:
PPBB (apologies to those expecting an update!), harking back to this post, would a custom a/c condenser in the style of the centre/gt3 rad be more efficient for the main coolant rads, leaving them with unrestricted airflow? Or would any potential gains be outweighed by the cost and hassle compared to your 'almost oem' set up (not including the e-a/c bit!)?
The problem is the centre rad area is pretty tight and whilst you could get an aircon rad in front of the centre rad getting the hard lines out of it would be need some bespoke bits as the bend radius is tighter than achievable with flexi and you're still facing having half the condenser area if not a bit less than using a standard condenser coupled with the loss of performance from the centre rad..... plus you really do need fans on an aircon condenser for zero vehicle speed conditions.The option of using just one OEM condenser in front of one rad is about the best middle zone and it works especially well with an e-aircon compressor in the nose as the pipe runs are super, super short compared to the engine mounted compressor hence far lower losses in transit (you get a lot of heat transfer to atmosphere from long runs of hard line!).
Anything is doable so it's entirely possible to get an aircon rad in the middle and if you got rid of the centre coolant rad probably with a couple of little SPALs on it but I think it would be a lot of work for little pay off...
Might be back tomorrow.... and I still have an update to do from before it went away! So without further ado:
Over the past twenty odd years of cocking around with cars both professionally and unprofessionally the thing that has become very clear is that it's rarely a full on engine failure or gearbox failure which stops the car (road car or race car!) - it's nearly always one of the rotating ancillaries/component in the FEAD and if it's not that it's a sensor. There's only really a couple of properly car stopping sensors (as you can happily run a proper engine on just two sensors and assume the rest) and with the 996 that's crank sensor and cam sensor - the car has only even failed to proceed twice and one of those was a crank sensor failure
To avoid these failure modes I've always ran the car with some key components ran on a life and given I had to swap the alternator anyway to add some more amps for the E-Aircon and the water pump was only 6 months off life then it was time to do a big FEAD service:
So new Alternator and new Water pump:
My usual WP choice is unfortunately no longer available and whilst my choice of metal impeller pump was always a little controversial this time around it's out of my hands with a composite impeller pump.
Still it claims it's from the same place as the car so how bad can it be
Air box, intake and belt off, coolant drained, engine hanger bolts out and hanger shoved out the way.... which with semi-solid mounts is more of a pain than on a standard car.
Old pump out:
Still in pretty good condition and no debris in or around the pump is always a good sign of a healthy motor. Modern coolants are amazing at suppressing corrosion. One important point to note is NEVER reuse the water pump bolts, they should always be replaced with new.
Nice and fresh on the block side of things too:
If anyone is wondering why the motor is yellow it's covered in anti-corrosion wax and really needs another going over - The engine location in a 911 means they hoover every bit of debris off the road onto the motor so anything one can do to avoid them going horribly furry in use is a good thing.
Gasket alignment checked - never trust it's been stamped out correctly
Old vs New, the previous 120AMP alternator was about 10 amps shy of keeping up with the electrical demands of the E-Aircon compressor so a new 150AMP Bosch one has replaced it:
At the same time I fitted new bearings to the FEAD idler pulleys - these pulleys are metal and the bearings can be pressed out and replaced for pence so a silly thing not to do when it's all apart. The PAS pump also got a good check over but these seem to last forever and ever and this one is still showing no signs of wear.
Obviously finished off with a fresh belt:
Airbox back in:
Fresh coolant back in to the correct mix and a bit of blipping and topping off later we can consider that bled
Finally so it didn't feel like a boring maintenance day I did a #racecar job and added some brake temp paint to the discs - given the use case if it pops the first one it'll be doing well but it's always good to know how bad it got if it accidentally finds its way onto a track
So I think that brings us up to date, next update will be a putting back together post with a car that's all the same colour!
Over the past twenty odd years of cocking around with cars both professionally and unprofessionally the thing that has become very clear is that it's rarely a full on engine failure or gearbox failure which stops the car (road car or race car!) - it's nearly always one of the rotating ancillaries/component in the FEAD and if it's not that it's a sensor. There's only really a couple of properly car stopping sensors (as you can happily run a proper engine on just two sensors and assume the rest) and with the 996 that's crank sensor and cam sensor - the car has only even failed to proceed twice and one of those was a crank sensor failure
To avoid these failure modes I've always ran the car with some key components ran on a life and given I had to swap the alternator anyway to add some more amps for the E-Aircon and the water pump was only 6 months off life then it was time to do a big FEAD service:
So new Alternator and new Water pump:
My usual WP choice is unfortunately no longer available and whilst my choice of metal impeller pump was always a little controversial this time around it's out of my hands with a composite impeller pump.
Still it claims it's from the same place as the car so how bad can it be
Air box, intake and belt off, coolant drained, engine hanger bolts out and hanger shoved out the way.... which with semi-solid mounts is more of a pain than on a standard car.
Old pump out:
Still in pretty good condition and no debris in or around the pump is always a good sign of a healthy motor. Modern coolants are amazing at suppressing corrosion. One important point to note is NEVER reuse the water pump bolts, they should always be replaced with new.
Nice and fresh on the block side of things too:
If anyone is wondering why the motor is yellow it's covered in anti-corrosion wax and really needs another going over - The engine location in a 911 means they hoover every bit of debris off the road onto the motor so anything one can do to avoid them going horribly furry in use is a good thing.
Gasket alignment checked - never trust it's been stamped out correctly
Old vs New, the previous 120AMP alternator was about 10 amps shy of keeping up with the electrical demands of the E-Aircon compressor so a new 150AMP Bosch one has replaced it:
At the same time I fitted new bearings to the FEAD idler pulleys - these pulleys are metal and the bearings can be pressed out and replaced for pence so a silly thing not to do when it's all apart. The PAS pump also got a good check over but these seem to last forever and ever and this one is still showing no signs of wear.
Obviously finished off with a fresh belt:
Airbox back in:
Fresh coolant back in to the correct mix and a bit of blipping and topping off later we can consider that bled
Finally so it didn't feel like a boring maintenance day I did a #racecar job and added some brake temp paint to the discs - given the use case if it pops the first one it'll be doing well but it's always good to know how bad it got if it accidentally finds its way onto a track
So I think that brings us up to date, next update will be a putting back together post with a car that's all the same colour!
Doofus said:
FEAD?
Front Engine?
Front End Accessory Drive - essentially everything on the engine which is belt driven from the crank pulley including all the power transfer and tensioning elements of that belt. Front Engine?
Although I suppose on a 911 it's at the back not the front, even though that's still the front but at the back....so maybe it should be BTFEAD - Back To Front End Accessory Drive?
B'stard Child said:
Had me scratching my head too - thanks for explaining
How do you find out the "life" of these components - is it a Porsche thing?
More experience of lifing things on racing cars - although aerospace principles apply too! How do you find out the "life" of these components - is it a Porsche thing?
The aim with lifing any component is to ensure you get the maximum reliable life from it, where reliability is quantified by the effects/acceptability of a failure. In a competition car a component failure may be race loosing so you'll determine the useful life of the component and then divide that by an agreed number (usually two or three) to arrive at a life which is such that the component is reliable during that length of operation i.e. you should never have a failure. You then further refine this with real world data if required.
For the vast majority of components they live on the bathtub curve:
The infant mortality of components is such that if you REALLY need to ensure reliability you'll run the first part of life in a none critical situation where ever possible. When you hear about race engines going on the dyno etc. this is partly why, when you release the assembly/part for use in the live environment it is past the stage of infant mortality and should be within the zone of low failure rate.
One of the key aspects of lifing any component is data - you get more real world data on reliability from using the component than you possibly can any other way. So you track stuff in operation - partly to record where you are in life of that component and partly to understand how worn/close to failure it was when it came off. You may have environmental issues that apply here too so you may wish to understand how much greater the wear rate is in an new operating regime.
If you were to look at a lot of the components on the 996 this thread is about you'll see these stickers on things:
The lifing code relates to version of the component on the car. So in this case that's the third one of those rad fans and second set of those uprights which have been fitted to the car. Each set is tracked for mileage and if applicable failure mode. Where it's not just about tracking an individual component the assembly is issued with a part number and the whole assembly covered by the lifing code.
Rad Fans on my car lasted 200K miles'ish the first time around. So now it gets new rad fans every 140K Miles (at 70% of the last failure life), hence we're now on L03 Rad Fans as they were up on mileage. When inspected the bearings were properly gritty and there was some minor damage to the blades from debris etc. so that's a pretty good mileage to be working on.
Of course when you're doing this on a privately owned vehicle and where you have no control over suppliers etc. you have to take it with a pinch of salt as someone changing the end supplier of a part that goes through three rebrands before you can buy it obviously has the potential to cock up your data.... likewise components becoming NLA in the spec you were using, like I now have a quarter of a million miles of useless data on a certain manufacturers metal impellor M96 water pump that they don't make any more
Given my usage of this vehicle, especially in the old days, I think this approach does play out very well. It's had two car stopping failures in 350K miles. One was a Crank Sensor which died of old age (these are so cheap they subsequently got changed yearly) and one was an outer Lobro joint which failed within the first 1000 miles (there's that component infant mortality
). Taking into account it's use now and the refocused purpose of the car it's not really worth still recording component life etc. but I've started so I'll finish applies! 
Well this week has been a busy one, but here's my whiteboard as it currently stands!
Suspension setup is one for CofG to do later this month so I'm down to the last few items. Building a car up post paint is usually quite good fun as it's all clean and nice to work on and this was no exception. I'd pushed the boat out and ordered a ridiculous amount of new fasteners, clips, fittings etc. from Porsche so I had the pleasure of building it back up with all new fasteners too!
So to recap the week:
Out of the trailer and fresh from the paint booth with everything floating in approximately the correct place... mostly on a single bolt.
Tuesday morning, In the air and ready for build up. The job list for this stood at:
- Build up door cards and refit mirrors.
- Underseal, cavity wax and rustproof all the areas where 996s are generally prone to grow orange fail.
- Fit the front and rear bumpers properly and replace the rear bumper hangers.
- Refit the carbon canister and screen wash bottle.
- Refit the arch liners with all the associated bolt on bits that had been cleaved off over the years.
- Fit the side skirts and get them as straight as possible (the skirts are NLA so this was a case of do the best possible with the 23 year old ones).
- Fit the fuel filler cap.
- Bleed the brakes.
- Fit the floor panels/undertrays
.... and a load of little fettling bits...
Undersealing / cavity waxing it was easy enough. I always use Bilt Hamber stuff, specifically their S50 stuff as it creeps so much better than anything else. I coated the inside of the sills from the front and rear arches. They were already amazingly good inside given the age and mileage but it seemed rude not to belt and braces this for the sake of a kilo or so!
Photos in no particular order
Doors built up and mirrors refitted, the original seals etc. went back on without any dramas so this was all pretty easy and straight forward. Took the opportunity to fix the pas door handle which has been none working since Monaco 2017
Front bumper properly mounted (or at least as good as a 20+ year old four time repaired one will ), arch liners fitted and rad exit gurneys fitted.
Rear arch liners fitted, the easiest job out of everything!
Fuel filler cap fitted, the biggest, most pain in the arse, unenjoyable, downright annoying job out of everything.... I cannot emphasize what a total knob this was to get to a point I was happy with. It was an actual days worth of bolting on and off, fettling and general backwards and forwards'ing chasing the last 1mm of gap in the wrong place. It was a total arse but it got there in the end and I am very happy with the gap and alignment..... and the fact it's got a later spec hinge in there now too so it flips open a treat and springs shut with a reassuring thud.
This was absolutely the hardest part of going to carbon wings though as it's so noticeable there's no escape from getting it right. In the end I salvaged the bracket/hinge carrier from the original wing by drilling out the spot welds, drilled them out, slotted them to provide adjustment in Y, drilled and slotted the wing inside the filler cap to provide adjustment in X, drew up and 3D printed a stop (that would also carry the original rubber stop), drilled and slotted the wing to provide Y adjustment for this and then spent the aforementioned day getting it all to line up..... vs a standard metal wing where you just dead blow/screw driver the bracket/hinge carrier and bend the stop to suit - easy on metal but carbon doesn't bend
On the subject of carbon wings, with the bonnet open you'd be hard pressed to tell they weren't standard aside from a few rivet heads that aren't there as standard. They go in with all the standard fasteners which have been painted in place just like they would be on the line back in 1999.
Side skirts fitted, this is the second biggest arse of a job on the car aside from the fuel filler flap but this is mainly because these parts are 23 years old and have lived ALL of the life the car has to be in with the best fighting chance of getting them to sit straight, tight against the body and look presentable I replaced every fitting, screw and mounting for them. The clips which mount them clip to the sill seam under the car, this seam gets pretty grotty on all 986 and 996 but especially those with skirts so I was keen to make sure this wasn't a pain point in future. The sills have been treated and any corrosion or grot removed along with being recoated in PU, I made a template up to locate the clips in the correct place based on the skirts and all new clips went on before being doused in Bilthamber UB Wax to make sure that over time they didn't also corrode (which pushes the clip off and the skirt out) as well as further protect the sill seams.
With that all done it was just a case of backwards and forwarding to get an acceptable fit in terms of flushness and straightness. This is the first time since I've owned the car that both skirts have actually been straight and fitted well the drivers side used to be so bad you couldn't see the swage line detail on that side of the car! They're pretty battered on the wheel arch side of things but hey you can't really see that and you can't hide all the 500K KM patina right
Tomorrow should be a fun day doing the last bits and bobs and expect some photos of it outside a garage and not in bits in due course.
Still a few things that are on the list to do like wheel centre caps, steering wheel dash, it's due some exhaust manifolds this winter but for the most part it's now cleaner, tidier, better presented and far more sorted than it has been for years!
Suspension setup is one for CofG to do later this month so I'm down to the last few items. Building a car up post paint is usually quite good fun as it's all clean and nice to work on and this was no exception. I'd pushed the boat out and ordered a ridiculous amount of new fasteners, clips, fittings etc. from Porsche so I had the pleasure of building it back up with all new fasteners too!
So to recap the week:
Out of the trailer and fresh from the paint booth with everything floating in approximately the correct place... mostly on a single bolt.
Tuesday morning, In the air and ready for build up. The job list for this stood at:
- Build up door cards and refit mirrors.
- Underseal, cavity wax and rustproof all the areas where 996s are generally prone to grow orange fail.
- Fit the front and rear bumpers properly and replace the rear bumper hangers.
- Refit the carbon canister and screen wash bottle.
- Refit the arch liners with all the associated bolt on bits that had been cleaved off over the years.
- Fit the side skirts and get them as straight as possible (the skirts are NLA so this was a case of do the best possible with the 23 year old ones).
- Fit the fuel filler cap.
- Bleed the brakes.
- Fit the floor panels/undertrays
.... and a load of little fettling bits...
Undersealing / cavity waxing it was easy enough. I always use Bilt Hamber stuff, specifically their S50 stuff as it creeps so much better than anything else. I coated the inside of the sills from the front and rear arches. They were already amazingly good inside given the age and mileage but it seemed rude not to belt and braces this for the sake of a kilo or so!
Photos in no particular order
Doors built up and mirrors refitted, the original seals etc. went back on without any dramas so this was all pretty easy and straight forward. Took the opportunity to fix the pas door handle which has been none working since Monaco 2017
Front bumper properly mounted (or at least as good as a 20+ year old four time repaired one will
), arch liners fitted and rad exit gurneys fitted.Rear arch liners fitted, the easiest job out of everything!
Fuel filler cap fitted, the biggest, most pain in the arse, unenjoyable, downright annoying job out of everything.... I cannot emphasize what a total knob this was to get to a point I was happy with. It was an actual days worth of bolting on and off, fettling and general backwards and forwards'ing chasing the last 1mm of gap in the wrong place. It was a total arse but it got there in the end and I am very happy with the gap and alignment..... and the fact it's got a later spec hinge in there now too so it flips open a treat and springs shut with a reassuring thud.
This was absolutely the hardest part of going to carbon wings though as it's so noticeable there's no escape from getting it right. In the end I salvaged the bracket/hinge carrier from the original wing by drilling out the spot welds, drilled them out, slotted them to provide adjustment in Y, drilled and slotted the wing inside the filler cap to provide adjustment in X, drew up and 3D printed a stop (that would also carry the original rubber stop), drilled and slotted the wing to provide Y adjustment for this and then spent the aforementioned day getting it all to line up..... vs a standard metal wing where you just dead blow/screw driver the bracket/hinge carrier and bend the stop to suit - easy on metal but carbon doesn't bend
On the subject of carbon wings, with the bonnet open you'd be hard pressed to tell they weren't standard aside from a few rivet heads that aren't there as standard. They go in with all the standard fasteners which have been painted in place just like they would be on the line back in 1999.
Side skirts fitted, this is the second biggest arse of a job on the car aside from the fuel filler flap but this is mainly because these parts are 23 years old and have lived ALL of the life the car has
to be in with the best fighting chance of getting them to sit straight, tight against the body and look presentable I replaced every fitting, screw and mounting for them. The clips which mount them clip to the sill seam under the car, this seam gets pretty grotty on all 986 and 996 but especially those with skirts so I was keen to make sure this wasn't a pain point in future. The sills have been treated and any corrosion or grot removed along with being recoated in PU, I made a template up to locate the clips in the correct place based on the skirts and all new clips went on before being doused in Bilthamber UB Wax to make sure that over time they didn't also corrode (which pushes the clip off and the skirt out) as well as further protect the sill seams. With that all done it was just a case of backwards and forwarding to get an acceptable fit in terms of flushness and straightness. This is the first time since I've owned the car that both skirts have actually been straight and fitted well
the drivers side used to be so bad you couldn't see the swage line detail on that side of the car! They're pretty battered on the wheel arch side of things but hey you can't really see that and you can't hide all the 500K KM patina right Tomorrow should be a fun day doing the last bits and bobs and expect some photos of it outside a garage and not in bits in due course.
Still a few things that are on the list to do like wheel centre caps, steering wheel dash, it's due some exhaust manifolds this winter but for the most part it's now cleaner, tidier, better presented and far more sorted than it has been for years!
Don1 said:
Awesome stuff.
God help me, I've been thinking indecent thoughts about a cheap 996 and some Dakar-esque suspension....
So have I! The problem is you can only go so far with subframe spacers and long shocks and that's not really Safari enough for me.... I've got a set of rear uprights in CAD at the moment that will do that trick which relocate the upper and lower links accordingly but I need to do some research into drive shaft angles (although 996 uses Lobros on both ends so pretty extreme is likely possible). The front McPherson setup will go quite a long way up just by moving the coffin arm and tuning fork arm mounts to the bottom of the subframe and spacing the subframe down.God help me, I've been thinking indecent thoughts about a cheap 996 and some Dakar-esque suspension....
I'd go to 280mm brakes all round to allow 15" wheels (probably Braid like my Cayenne runs) with some proper tyres, massive rock sliders, two piece Kevlar floor (just to allow easy engine and gearbox access), weld some mounts to the standard crash bars to receive some Safari style front protection, delete the silencers and run a Y piece single exit box, roof rack with a spare wheel on it and job jobbed.
A lightly crashed C2 would be perfect, especially if it's already ripped a corner off as I don't need any of those bits and cars that don't roll generally go pretty cheap
ATM said:
I tried to fit a 16 inch 986 rear wheel but It didn't go on. It fouled on the mounting point for the rear camber arm to the hub.
There's loads of room! If the toe arm link mounted from the top To get the ride height into it without creating lots of "bad" geometry in the rear suspension it's necessary to move the pick up points so everything runs at sensible angles. Think about that rear upright another 100mm down and you'll see how the toe link would top out (even if the wheel fitted), but move it to the top and all is good, of course on a standard upright the ball joint taper is now the wrong way around but you can solve that by machining a taper that provides a thread for a clevis to receive a spherical link..... or just do a new rear upright as you have to move the top and bottom pickups anyway! The key to doing a Safari 996 properly is in the uprights as the most height you can get with subframe spacers and long shocks is just enough to make it look weird rather than Dakar
So that's it about done then
There's a new fire bottle on the way from Tweeks as we speak and CG have it later this month for setup.
A very empty looking whiteboard
Aircon gas and setup was easy:
K-Type on the vent for outlet temp and the rest on the laptop. All I wanted to achieve with this was to hold the interior at the exterior temperature and it outperforms that quite happily, holding the interior at 20 degrees C was no problem in the midday sun today so we'll tick the e-aircon project off as a total win!
As it was outside it seemed rude not to take a few pics in the sun.
It has come out well
Few bits still to sort, I need an intake snorkel gasket which fits into the engine cover, a new front splitter (which appear to be £400 now, not £80 like they used to be!) but all very minor things that the car has done without for many years
Looking forward to CG getting a setup on it and seeing how it handles with all the new bits but a quick test drive earlier shows the new spring rates are so, so much more suitable for British B Roads so that's a good start
There's a new fire bottle on the way from Tweeks as we speak and CG have it later this month for setup.
A very empty looking whiteboard
Aircon gas and setup was easy:
K-Type on the vent for outlet temp and the rest on the laptop. All I wanted to achieve with this was to hold the interior at the exterior temperature and it outperforms that quite happily, holding the interior at 20 degrees C was no problem in the midday sun today so we'll tick the e-aircon project off as a total win!
As it was outside it seemed rude not to take a few pics in the sun.
It has come out well
Few bits still to sort, I need an intake snorkel gasket which fits into the engine cover, a new front splitter (which appear to be £400 now, not £80 like they used to be!) but all very minor things that the car has done without for many years
Looking forward to CG getting a setup on it and seeing how it handles with all the new bits but a quick test drive earlier shows the new spring rates are so, so much more suitable for British B Roads so that's a good start
Thank you for all the positive feedback This job did take twice as long as I thought (always the way) but having owned the car so long and really having put it through the wringer I felt like I owed it some serious love and attention. To see it fairly immaculate now does feel very good!
It's proof as well that these things just go and go, there is nothing that can't be fixed on them and even the roughest high mileage hound can be effectively rolled in glitter as required
I think the 996 in general is getting more and more love, I'm not sure they'll ever get to the status of the air cooled cars - which is a bit of a shame as I still maintain they're a better car but it's nice to see them coming in from the cold a little
This job did take twice as long as I thought (always the way) but having owned the car so long and really having put it through the wringer I felt like I owed it some serious love and attention. To see it fairly immaculate now does feel very good!It's proof as well that these things just go and go, there is nothing that can't be fixed on them and even the roughest high mileage hound can be effectively rolled in glitter as required
I think the 996 in general is getting more and more love, I'm not sure they'll ever get to the status of the air cooled cars - which is a bit of a shame as I still maintain they're a better car but it's nice to see them coming in from the cold a little
ker Position TheJimi said:
Currently set at medium, per above photos?
I'm half surprised you haven't made it on-board adjustable. Or have you?
Running FWP in the above I'm half surprised you haven't made it on-board adjustable. Or have you?
I did half look at making it active but there's a lot of engineering work unless one wished to run an underslung actuator off the engine cover to move it. There's no room to package rotaries in the ends unfortunately...... plus that's more weight!
Om said:
That does look (and is) fantastic. I am really taken by the steering wheel... The 996 looks, especially in silver are starting to grow on me now!
It's my favourite wheel for a 996 as it puts the wheel rim where it should have been from day one and nicely mimics what was fitted to the 996 Cup Racers. For anyone interested it's the Leather / Red version of the OMP WRC - PN:OD/1980/NR
.... you get used to how far away the indicator stalk is eventually
Heaveho said:
The fit and finish of the panels and paint look superb in the pics, I'd be delighted with that. Just a great car, with great additions.
Thank you, I really am chuffed with how none rough it looks now Heaveho said:
Liking the Sony head unit, it's the one I settled on for my old Mk1 MR2 after a false start with a Pioneer. Discovered the hard way that it was too far from the drivers eyeline without a rotary control for volume. The Pioneer ended up in the Boxster, as it's got steering wheel controls. An expensive lesson!
I'm a big believer in physical primary controls for stuff, for what they cost these Sony units are mega and the Android Auto integration is seamless and very responsive. I'm considering fitting one of the old rotary controllers to the column for shades of late 90's Toyota and easier track skipping Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff