Discussion
RobXjcoupe said:
Have you got a picture of the front of the s2000 hubs?
top left ford focustop right s2000
bottom - my hybrid to fit into the focus hub
although the disks and calipers for the focus RS are much bigger
lathe is a tiny thing with a 3 jaw chuck. managed the 2 hubs with a great deal of effort though.
might see if i can get a collett to fit it
Jaffman said:
RobXjcoupe said:
Have you got a picture of the front of the s2000 hubs?
top left ford focustop right s2000
bottom - my hybrid to fit into the focus hub
lathe is a tiny thing with a 3 jaw chuck. managed the 2 hubs with a great deal of effort though.
might see if i can get a collett to fit it
Tell you what send me a message in the morning/lunch tomorrow and we can chat properly if you want?
RobXjcoupe said:
Right, the s2000 front has that raised centre Diameter. What’s the height of that from the rest of the hub front face?
Tell you what send me a message in the morning/lunch tomorrow and we can chat properly if you want?
its 11mm.Tell you what send me a message in the morning/lunch tomorrow and we can chat properly if you want?
basically flush with the disk when its on there
can do (Y)
Jaffman said:
RobXjcoupe said:
Right, the s2000 front has that raised centre Diameter. What’s the height of that from the rest of the hub front face?
Tell you what send me a message in the morning/lunch tomorrow and we can chat properly if you want?
its 11mm.Tell you what send me a message in the morning/lunch tomorrow and we can chat properly if you want?
basically flush with the disk when its on there
can do (Y)
So original disc is bolted from behind I’ve just noticed.
Right to front mount the disc you definitely need that spacer. You need to reduce the 11mm to approx 5.5mm. Then turn a spacer with the back end counter bored to fit the original hub centre. Then the front needs a new centre to allow the disc and wheel to align and run true, just like a concentric wheel spacer. Use the height dimension from the original ford hub as a guide. Obviously use longer wheel studs to clamp all together.
My only worry is that you turned the s2000 hubs down using a 3 jaw Chuck and they don’t usually run concentric to the tolerance needed to fit the wheel bearings. Remember these hubs will be holding your wheels on at speeds to 150mph?
Right to front mount the disc you definitely need that spacer. You need to reduce the 11mm to approx 5.5mm. Then turn a spacer with the back end counter bored to fit the original hub centre. Then the front needs a new centre to allow the disc and wheel to align and run true, just like a concentric wheel spacer. Use the height dimension from the original ford hub as a guide. Obviously use longer wheel studs to clamp all together.
My only worry is that you turned the s2000 hubs down using a 3 jaw Chuck and they don’t usually run concentric to the tolerance needed to fit the wheel bearings. Remember these hubs will be holding your wheels on at speeds to 150mph?
so whilst the 3 jaw was good enough after a fight, i'm not 100% happy with the result. the smaller disk visually oscillates when turning, its not much, less than 1mm, but its enough for me to want to have them redone. id probably risk it if the disks fit as its so little, but it would be high on the "fix it " list.
if i'm redoing them i'm redoing them from scratch and having them the fitment I want, hance the cad drawing. it didnt take me long so no harm no foul.
im open to the spacer idea, i know what youre trying to explain, I have extended studs anyway so thats no issue.
appreicate the offer to help by the way, if i havent sorted it in 2 weeks ill be PM'ing you lol
if i'm redoing them i'm redoing them from scratch and having them the fitment I want, hance the cad drawing. it didnt take me long so no harm no foul.
im open to the spacer idea, i know what youre trying to explain, I have extended studs anyway so thats no issue.
appreicate the offer to help by the way, if i havent sorted it in 2 weeks ill be PM'ing you lol
Bobberoo99 said:
Just a question, and please don't be offended by this, did you clock the hubs in before you machined them? You need to clock the O/D in and the face in otherwise you end up with the problem you have!!
I did, got it to within 0.05mm, but it dont particularly trust my lathe as i ended up further out than that between either end of the bearing face.what i should have done was turn it between centres but i just dont have the facilities.
hence my request to get these ones done properly on a proper machine.
if i wasnt stuck at home id probably use the colchester up my mates but is till dont 100% trust that. my turning knowledge is basic at best
Jaffman said:
so whilst the 3 jaw was good enough after a fight, i'm not 100% happy with the result. the smaller disk visually oscillates when turning, its not much, less than 1mm, but its enough for me to want to have them redone. id probably risk it if the disks fit as its so little, but it would be high on the "fix it " list.
if i'm redoing them i'm redoing them from scratch and having them the fitment I want, hance the cad drawing. it didnt take me long so no harm no foul.
im open to the spacer idea, i know what youre trying to explain, I have extended studs anyway so thats no issue.
appreicate the offer to help by the way, if i havent sorted it in 2 weeks ill be PM'ing you lol
I’m still in lockdown at the moment as with a lot of people, but the job of modifying those s2000 hubs is an easy task. The bearing is a pressed fit and tolerance wise will roughly be +0.00 -0.02mm. So clocking up needs to be perfect which isn’t impossible or even making up a little jig to fit the hub in so it runs perfectly true before machining to its new size. Even if you made an entirely new item it still needs to be turned around at some point to machine the hub face and centre that holds the disc and wheel concentric to the bearing.if i'm redoing them i'm redoing them from scratch and having them the fitment I want, hance the cad drawing. it didnt take me long so no harm no foul.
im open to the spacer idea, i know what youre trying to explain, I have extended studs anyway so thats no issue.
appreicate the offer to help by the way, if i havent sorted it in 2 weeks ill be PM'ing you lol
With that in mind it would be easier to modify as half the work is already completed.
I’ve made concentric wheel spacers for my own car replacing the standard studs for longer. The wheels I used were et52.5mm but I wanted et35mm. Never had any issues with them. I’ve also modified a set of 5 stud bbs split rims for my mk1 focus with its 4 stud pattern. Changed the wheel offsets also. Pictures below.
The 2 pictures above showing the concentric wheel spacers would be similar to what you require to enable the use of the s2000 hubs with front mount discs and also to fit the wheel. Your version of the spacer would be behind the disc with just the centre showing to locate the disc and wheel.
yeah id probably need a spacer behind and in front of the disk too thinking about it as clearance with the calipers is too close.
Will have to work everything out but i have to make a new stub axle now anyway as i used one side as a test.
ive had a price of about 700quid for 2 hardened steel hubs as i initially asked. im thinking thats a little on the steep side
Will have to work everything out but i have to make a new stub axle now anyway as i used one side as a test.
ive had a price of about 700quid for 2 hardened steel hubs as i initially asked. im thinking thats a little on the steep side
Jaffman said:
yeah id probably need a spacer behind and in front of the disk too thinking about it as clearance with the calipers is too close.
Will have to work everything out but i have to make a new stub axle now anyway as i used one side as a test.
ive had a price of about 700quid for 2 hardened steel hubs as i initially asked. im thinking thats a little on the steep side
Issue is probably that it's a hefty old chunk of steel to start from and a st load of metal to remove...which means time. Originals I imagine would be cast then machined which means the machining is fairly minimum. Will have to work everything out but i have to make a new stub axle now anyway as i used one side as a test.
ive had a price of about 700quid for 2 hardened steel hubs as i initially asked. im thinking thats a little on the steep side
Fastdruid said:
Issue is probably that it's a hefty old chunk of steel to start from and a st load of metal to remove...which means time. Originals I imagine would be cast then machined which means the machining is fairly minimum.
yeah i get that, i know full well having to deal with my little lathe and how little it can remove so i understand. but i dont want to spend that much LOLIt might actually be cheaper to abandon the current uprights and get some custom ones made instead, use off the shelf "gen 3" hubs as they have bearing and hub integrated.
It's what I've done with mine, I'm using 350Z hubs as they're the "slimmest" I could find. Obviously a totally different setup, but you get the idea.
It's what I've done with mine, I'm using 350Z hubs as they're the "slimmest" I could find. Obviously a totally different setup, but you get the idea.
Fastdruid said:
It might actually be cheaper to abandon the current uprights and get some custom ones made instead, use off the shelf "gen 3" hubs as they have bearing and hub integrated.
It's what I've done with mine, I'm using 350Z hubs as they're the "slimmest" I could find. Obviously a totally different setup, but you get the idea.
I have thought of it, but im currently in the situation where any money i have spent could be mostly recovered in items such as the rear subframe and the engine/gearbox. i think the most i have spent on the car that isnt recoverable really is the machined adaptors for the steering arm movement and they cost 100 pound. to drop 700 on a set of stub axles is just adding to the "dead money" if this all ends up in failureIt's what I've done with mine, I'm using 350Z hubs as they're the "slimmest" I could find. Obviously a totally different setup, but you get the idea.
The other thing to consider with all this is the cost of replacement parts if the worst were to happen and you bend a front corner etc. If parts are custom made that will give you a delay on getting the car back together and probably more expensive, so if you can use as much off the shelf parts as you can then it may pay dividends in the long run, should a failure happen.
Jonny-Jimbo said:
The other thing to consider with all this is the cost of replacement parts if the worst were to happen and you bend a front corner etc. If parts are custom made that will give you a delay on getting the car back together and probably more expensive, so if you can use as much off the shelf parts as you can then it may pay dividends in the long run, should a failure happen.
this is a big thing i consider when im doing things.im pissed ive had to redrill the disks from 4 stud to 5 stud, means im going to have to do the same to every disk when i change them.
in this case, if ive stacked it enough to break a stub axle id suggest its probably beyond repair.
With the brake discs, you need I presume a Nissan stock part to match the 5 stud pcd. Once you have those. It’s just a matter of getting the caliper centralised over the disc. In theory another bit of machining but nothing that wears out like the brake disc.
Drilling out the new brake disc every time they are replaced isn’t a good idea. I don’t so anyway. If you look at the mtec brake disc website they give the disc offset dimensions so you should be able to find something suitable.
I think you should use stock Ford rs parts up front and convert the rear to suit. 5 stud Ford pcd 5x108 covers all the big Jaguar brembo standard fit brake discs. To convert the fwd hubs to free wheeling is a doddle and cheaper than £700 for custom hubs and gives cheap replacements if damaged.
Drilling out the new brake disc every time they are replaced isn’t a good idea. I don’t so anyway. If you look at the mtec brake disc website they give the disc offset dimensions so you should be able to find something suitable.
I think you should use stock Ford rs parts up front and convert the rear to suit. 5 stud Ford pcd 5x108 covers all the big Jaguar brembo standard fit brake discs. To convert the fwd hubs to free wheeling is a doddle and cheaper than £700 for custom hubs and gives cheap replacements if damaged.
RobXjcoupe said:
With the brake discs, you need I presume a Nissan stock part to match the 5 stud pcd. Once you have those. It’s just a matter of getting the caliper centralised over the disc. In theory another bit of machining but nothing that wears out like the brake disc.
Drilling out the new brake disc every time they are replaced isn’t a good idea. I don’t so anyway. If you look at the mtec brake disc website they give the disc offset dimensions so you should be able to find something suitable.
I think you should use stock Ford rs parts up front and convert the rear to suit. 5 stud Ford pcd 5x108 covers all the big Jaguar brembo standard fit brake discs. To convert the fwd hubs to free wheeling is a doddle and cheaper than £700 for custom hubs and gives cheap replacements if damaged.
converting the rear is a no go, id spend more money on new wheels, brake disk, fannying around getting a driveshaft to fit than i would 700 on new hubs on the front.Drilling out the new brake disc every time they are replaced isn’t a good idea. I don’t so anyway. If you look at the mtec brake disc website they give the disc offset dimensions so you should be able to find something suitable.
I think you should use stock Ford rs parts up front and convert the rear to suit. 5 stud Ford pcd 5x108 covers all the big Jaguar brembo standard fit brake discs. To convert the fwd hubs to free wheeling is a doddle and cheaper than £700 for custom hubs and gives cheap replacements if damaged.
drilling out wasnt so bad, just a pain in the arris. its not something that happens often anyway. I have everything i need to bolt up the brakes onto the front hubs apart from the stub axle. stock focus RS parts are not easy to come across and will be just as expensive as getting these machined too.
ill have a look at mtec for brake disk sizes for future, if it saves me a job of drilling new holes every time
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