BMW E46 330d SE Touring

[helix402]

Spitfires said:

The car is looking great Helix, I'm also liking the sport bumper.

I've read both your 330d threads from start to finish, but I can't recall mention of water pump changes - sorry if I've missed or forgotten it.

Having finally got rid of my 330ci and bought an E92 330d, I'm interested to know if this is something you'd change as preventative maintenance around a certain age/mileage or wait until warning signs? And if the former, when would you be looking at replacing?

I have to say the M57 is fantastic and for my driving profile I should have changed ages ago, the auto in mine makes for effortless mile munching.

Thanks for taking the time to post about your cars and please continue to do so, very entertaining reads and extremely informative also.

Glad you’re enjoying the threads. Re M57 water pumps, it seems fairly rare for them to fail-even at high mileage. I wouldn’t bother changing one as a preventative measure. Even the petrol M54 pumps aren’t as bad as the internet makes out, the earlier M50/52/52tu pumps were less reliable.

[helix402]

The only thing I do with the M57 pumps is check for play if the drive belt is removed for replacement or any other reason.

[helix402]

I decided to change my front seats (again). I’ve had all sorts of seats in my E46s, standard, leather manual sports, leather electric sports, half alcantara sports, M3 seats.

This one has SE leather with electric lumber originally. I replaced them with M3 manual leather seats, fitted with touring/saloon rails so they bolt straight in.

I saw some local half alcantara seats for sale locally so decided to buy them. Of all my seats I like these best. Pics below (uncleaned).

If anyone wants a pair of M3 seats ready to bolt into a saloon/touring (or a Coupe as I still have the original rails)-drop me a PM.

[helix402]

I think the answer to your question is:

The inner part of the joint is connected to the prop

The outer part is connected to the diff

The bearings transmit the load from inner to outer, hence drive

No bearings, no drive.

[helix402]

A/c packed up this afternoon. Here’s how I diagnosed the cause:

1: Looked at condenser and pipes for leaks. None seen

2. Hooked up ISTA D read all live a/c data, all ok and a/c button working

3. Had a look at the compressor:


The red space isn’t supposed to be that big. New (used) compressor is on order. Terrible really. It’s only done 163k miles over 18 years!

[helix402]

therusterman said:

Is the compressor clutch worn or is it something else?

I’m not a compressor expert but I think the problem lies within the compressor. It seems a shaft may have snapped.

[helix402]

JakeT said:

It looks to me like an internal failure of the compressor. My first check if there's any A/C issues is if the Compressor clutches in and out. I thought I had an issue of the A/C not working once, after doing a load of work on it. I checked a load of things to find I hadn't switched it on...

Yes, the play is within the compressor itself. I’ve never seen one fail in this way before.

[helix402]

A/c fixed for free! The bolt securing the clutch to the compressor had fallen out. New bolt with thread lock on fitted. Fixed, love a free fix.

[helix402]

This happened yesterday:



(No, not a rare need to refuel, low screw wash).

It turned out the o/s headlight washer jet was leaking.

Handily I had a new one on the shelf:



Headlight out:





Old jet:



All done:





The old jet was only three years old, I think I must have upset it by having the headlight out a few times without being gentle enough.

Took an hour to do as the lower headlight trim was a pain to refit.

[helix402]

JakeT said:

I've stuffed a drillbit down the hose on an old car before and then buttoned it all up to stop it leaking. What's worse is I have a full set of washers and hoses sat in a box in the garage.

Either way, a good fix. That low washer light is such an annoying one to look at, as is any warning light.

I’ve done similar before, a screw down the washer pipe.

[helix402]

I bought the box and other parts from eBay. They don’t come up too often as rust or auto box failure seem to kill 330ds. The 6 speeds are usually too new for rust to kill them. The 330d also runs a different diff in the 6 speed.

[helix402]

mdmay said:

Been in search for a full 6 speed gearbox diff prop driveshafts for a while. The old 5 speed is not going to be happy with the additional torque soon to be added...

The drive shafts are the same 5/6 speed. I may have a 6 speed diff for sale soon.

[helix402]

The car’s due a service now:

[helix402]

d_a_n1979 said:

helix402 said:

The car’s due a service now:

That'll be its running in service won't it?

Exactly!

[helix402]

Service done, oil and filter+crankcase breather unit and filter. I had a genuine BMW breather unit and a choice of M57/47 and M57n/tu cyclones. The breather unit was original.

I tried both cyclones and both fitted. I fitted the later one as guessed it must be better as it’s for a newer engine.

I also changed the egr to intercooler pipe as despite being silicon the old one was leaking.

The car drives better after the service with less lag. It still has the compromised map on with less torque at low revs to save the DMF. I’m looking forward to putting the 6 speed in and getting it mapped to suit.

[helix402]

All parts have now arrived for fitting the new rear top mounts (Bimmertune):









Reinforcement plates are Z3 style from an eBay vendor.

[helix402]

6 speed conversion is done. Parts:

204ps 330d used box, prop and diff
E60 530d 218ps LUK clutch kit
New gen BMW clutch release lever and pivot thing
All new gen BMW gear lever bushes etc
New Motul gear box oil, forgot the grade
New Castrol Syntrax diff oil
New fill and drain plugs for diff and box
New diff output shaft seals
New gen BMW selector shaft seal
New prop centre bearing (Febi)
New clutch cover and flywheel bolts
New gen BMW prop cv joint

All ready fitted were the 535d prop coupling and F10 M5 illuminated gear knob

I was a tad nervous doing the job as the theory behind it was mostly based on internet research of others who had done it. Rather than first hand accounts. We all know there are some lies online!

I did my own research too with parts via realoem.
Tricky bits, prop was seized to diff. A large hammer and chisel sorted that. Both driveshafts were seized to the diff. Air chisel for that one.

The old 5 speed flywheel was fully worn out. After 1 year/10k miles 550/605Nm torque. It had a separate pilot bearing in the crank which has to be removed as the 6 speed DMF has the bearing integrated.

I tried the paper and grease drift removal method. No good. A mechanic at the workshop I was borrowing left me a Ford Cortina pilot bearing removal tool. Perfect, quick and easy.

The rest of the job was straightforward. All works apart from cruise control doesn’t work in 6th. The internet told me this would be the case.

I’ll see if my mapper can make it work when the car is mapped to suit the new transmission.

Pics:











My friend whose workshop I used asked why I bothered with all modifications. I enjoy doing it. I can’t afford a 335d yet without incurring a debt I don’t want. So just make my old 330d as quick as one. It’s also quite nice having a car that most people think is just a old BMW 3 series. Which of course, it is.

This was original map result:

Edited by helix402 on Wednesday 9th September 19:20

[helix402]

I’m hoping my mapper can tweak the software to allow cruise to work. It should just be a parameter in the DDE.

I decided to upgrade my engine oil and remove the egr as the standard LL04 oil was in a poor state after 10k miles. I’ve advocated keeping the egr in the past but I think with the modifications to my current car it’s time for it to go.

I’ve gone for this oil:




I used to use the 10w50 version many years ago in my Fiat Coupe 20vt. It’s compatible with my one remaining cat.

Next marmite modification comes on Monday. It can’t be that bad as I’m using some genuine BMW parts.....

[helix402]

New gearbox is great. The 530d clutch is lighter than the 330d one too. The clutch plate is a more complicated design. The changes make the car more pleasant to drive.

All 6 now working:



New diff in situ, it has a different vibration damper to the 5 speed one:

[helix402]

Gave the car the once over underneath since the change. All good and tight and leak free, here are some pics:



Old gearbox:



Old diff:



Spare 6 speed manual diff: