Discussion
TBH I've gone with machining the ~5mm off the outside of the disc on mine as the only disc with the correct *fitment* I could find was with too large a diameter to fit the caliper mounts (and in preference to welding up and re-drill the caliper mounting holes holes).
(halfway through to show how much taken off).
...but my plan long term was to get aluminium bells and suitable rotors to fit as machining the disc every time I needed a new one would be doable but a royal pain.
(halfway through to show how much taken off).
...but my plan long term was to get aluminium bells and suitable rotors to fit as machining the disc every time I needed a new one would be doable but a royal pain.
Fastdruid said:
TBH I've gone with machining the ~5mm off the outside of the disc on mine as the only disc with the correct *fitment* I could find was with too large a diameter to fit the caliper mounts (and in preference to welding up and re-drill the caliper mounting holes holes).
(halfway through to show how much taken off).
...but my plan long term was to get aluminium bells and suitable rotors to fit as machining the disc every time I needed a new one would be doable but a royal pain.
That’s not too bad to do every disk change? I mean disks should let you at least 25k? (Unless it’s a track car?) that’s 2-3 years realistically (halfway through to show how much taken off).
...but my plan long term was to get aluminium bells and suitable rotors to fit as machining the disc every time I needed a new one would be doable but a royal pain.
There's nothing fundamentally wrong with using spacers behind the disc, and if it'll let you stick to using off the shelf components, I'd argue it's in some ways better.
Is there a combination of spacer thickness and brake discs that will let you use the standard disc from something, with the spacer behind it compensating for the bell height relative to your caliper alignment, and the spacer on the front of it dealing with the wheel offset and caliper clearance you need?
Is there a combination of spacer thickness and brake discs that will let you use the standard disc from something, with the spacer behind it compensating for the bell height relative to your caliper alignment, and the spacer on the front of it dealing with the wheel offset and caliper clearance you need?
InitialDave said:
There's nothing fundamentally wrong with using spacers behind the disc, and if it'll let you stick to using off the shelf components, I'd argue it's in some ways better.
Is there a combination of spacer thickness and brake discs that will let you use the standard disc from something, with the spacer behind it compensating for the bell height relative to your caliper alignment, and the spacer on the front of it dealing with the wheel offset and caliper clearance you need?
but im not using off the shelf components anyway lol. if i stack it and i break a hub, then i need to attain s2000 hubs (have to buy the full assembly) strip it down, machine it to make it fit. so fundamentally im not using off the shelf parts. after i do all that then there is no doubt a selection of off the shelf things i could buy to make everything fit but at what cost?Is there a combination of spacer thickness and brake discs that will let you use the standard disc from something, with the spacer behind it compensating for the bell height relative to your caliper alignment, and the spacer on the front of it dealing with the wheel offset and caliper clearance you need?
I have the disks, i have the calipers, i have the wheels, I have the standard hub assembly.
all im missing is the bit in the middle.
ive actually had a local engineering firm quote me a reasonable price on 2 hubs now anyway so i might end up going down that route.
then everything should fit correctly without needing spacers (apart from a wheel spacer maybe) and changing disks and pads is a simple task if i can find comparable disks with the correct offset but the right amount of holes lol.
im currently 3d printing my hub anyway so I can test fit it and check everything is spot on. if were good i might just pay that company to do it and get it done
This just gets better and better! Jaffman said:
Fastdruid said:
TBH I've gone with machining the ~5mm off the outside of the disc on mine as the only disc with the correct *fitment* I could find was with too large a diameter to fit the caliper mounts (and in preference to welding up and re-drill the caliper mounting holes holes).
(halfway through to show how much taken off).
...but my plan long term was to get aluminium bells and suitable rotors to fit as machining the disc every time I needed a new one would be doable but a royal pain.
That’s not too bad to do every disk change? I mean disks should let you at least 25k? (Unless it’s a track car?) that’s 2-3 years realistically (halfway through to show how much taken off).
...but my plan long term was to get aluminium bells and suitable rotors to fit as machining the disc every time I needed a new one would be doable but a royal pain.
I suspect mind I'd want to replace them due to rust before I needed to replace them due to wear!
StuntmanMike said:
Cool, bet your dead chuffed.
And rightly so.
yeah considering the engine was out fixing a starter motor problem only yesterday im quite pleased.And rightly so.
ill put the fornt end back on tomorrow, fill it with coolant and let it run for a bit to see if i can get it to idle correctly
Got an engineering question for someone who may be able to help.
Are there such a thing as “pull” actuators for turbo wastegates? All standard ones are “push” so when they see the correct pressure they push the wastegate open.
I don’t have much room for the current push wastegates so I was wondering if I can get pull ones to move the actuation point
The next question is, if I can’t get a pull one, can you put the actuator over the exhaust side of the turbo instead of the compressor side? I’m worried about heat with the rubber inside the actuator but it won’t be directly over the exhaust it would be bracketed off the compressor housing as usual
Are there such a thing as “pull” actuators for turbo wastegates? All standard ones are “push” so when they see the correct pressure they push the wastegate open.
I don’t have much room for the current push wastegates so I was wondering if I can get pull ones to move the actuation point
The next question is, if I can’t get a pull one, can you put the actuator over the exhaust side of the turbo instead of the compressor side? I’m worried about heat with the rubber inside the actuator but it won’t be directly over the exhaust it would be bracketed off the compressor housing as usual
Jaffman said:
Got an engineering question for someone who may be able to help.
Are there such a thing as “pull” actuators for turbo wastegates? All standard ones are “push” so when they see the correct pressure they push the wastegate open.
I don’t have much room for the current push wastegates so I was wondering if I can get pull ones to move the actuation point
The next question is, if I can’t get a pull one, can you put the actuator over the exhaust side of the turbo instead of the compressor side? I’m worried about heat with the rubber inside the actuator but it won’t be directly over the exhaust it would be bracketed off the compressor housing as usual
Can't say I have ever seen a pull one. To get a true pull you would have to suck the air out of the canister, which is not how they work. I suppose it could be possible to pressurise the other side of the diaphragm, but there would be issues with leakage around the actuator rod.Are there such a thing as “pull” actuators for turbo wastegates? All standard ones are “push” so when they see the correct pressure they push the wastegate open.
I don’t have much room for the current push wastegates so I was wondering if I can get pull ones to move the actuation point
The next question is, if I can’t get a pull one, can you put the actuator over the exhaust side of the turbo instead of the compressor side? I’m worried about heat with the rubber inside the actuator but it won’t be directly over the exhaust it would be bracketed off the compressor housing as usual
Yes, you can mount the actuator over the exhaust side. Perkins do that so they can clock the cold side of the turbo without disturbing the actuator. Just needs. decent heat shield.
Megaflow said:
Can't say I have ever seen a pull one. To get a true pull you would have to suck the air out of the canister, which is not how they work. I suppose it could be possible to pressurise the other side of the diaphragm, but there would be issues with leakage around the actuator rod.
Yes, you can mount the actuator over the exhaust side. Perkins do that so they can clock the cold side of the turbo without disturbing the actuator. Just needs. decent heat shield.
That’s what I thought. Maybe one that actuated on the other side of the diagram but I’ve never seen one so thought I’d ask.Yes, you can mount the actuator over the exhaust side. Perkins do that so they can clock the cold side of the turbo without disturbing the actuator. Just needs. decent heat shield.
Cool that was plan A tbh, I can make any sort of bracket to put it above the exhaust but I was worried what with it being rubber inside. I guess they’re pretty resilient anyway
Meh, I've seen far worse.
Just FYI if you plan on getting it road legal and past IVA you will need to ensure that the tank (and filler etc) is totally isolated from the "passenger" compartment.
What that means practically is you need to have a sealed cover over the top. You can have access hatches but they do need to be sealed (akin to the ones that typically are under the rear seat for many cars).
Just FYI if you plan on getting it road legal and past IVA you will need to ensure that the tank (and filler etc) is totally isolated from the "passenger" compartment.
What that means practically is you need to have a sealed cover over the top. You can have access hatches but they do need to be sealed (akin to the ones that typically are under the rear seat for many cars).
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