£600 Rover 75 Connoisseur SE, 2.5 v6
Discussion
JeremyH5 said:
Are the speedo and Rev counter drives cable driven? Could one be a bit loose? They’re probably electronic though so this is probably “too old” thinking.
Not sure. I'm assuming because it comes on and off with the climate control it is linked to the heating / cooling vents but not sure. helix402 said:
JeremyH5 said:
Are the speedo and Rev counter drives cable driven? Could one be a bit loose? They’re probably electronic though so this is probably “too old” thinking.
Electronic.Ah yes, many squeaks and rattles to be found in a 75!
1) See if it disappears at certain fan speeds.
2) Tap the 'defog' button (which is 'Full power to the forward shields') to loosen any debris.
3) It may be the wooden trim to the left of the speedo - I have a piece of card wedged on mine as fan speed 1 would vibrate it.
4) Rear view mirror glass can vibrate and necessitate another slim paper wedge. Due to the acoustics of the cabin it can sound like it is in the dahs, but actually it is the mirror.
Good luck.
1) See if it disappears at certain fan speeds.
2) Tap the 'defog' button (which is 'Full power to the forward shields') to loosen any debris.
3) It may be the wooden trim to the left of the speedo - I have a piece of card wedged on mine as fan speed 1 would vibrate it.
4) Rear view mirror glass can vibrate and necessitate another slim paper wedge. Due to the acoustics of the cabin it can sound like it is in the dahs, but actually it is the mirror.
Good luck.
andburg said:
whoops indeed!
given the value of the car I'd push out the damage as best i could, treat the rust and rattle can it
total cost £20?
it'll be a long time before that becomes an MOT failure but it''ll become even more visually apparent very quickly if you dont prevent it rusting.
I'd probably need to get a bit of filler involved to smooth it out, tbh probably worth doing, it wouldn't really be too much effort to apply some filler, sand it down, and rattle can it. I just can't really be bothered ... given the value of the car I'd push out the damage as best i could, treat the rust and rattle can it
total cost £20?
it'll be a long time before that becomes an MOT failure but it''ll become even more visually apparent very quickly if you dont prevent it rusting.
Cascade360 said:
andburg said:
whoops indeed!
given the value of the car I'd push out the damage as best i could, treat the rust and rattle can it
total cost £20?
it'll be a long time before that becomes an MOT failure but it''ll become even more visually apparent very quickly if you dont prevent it rusting.
I'd probably need to get a bit of filler involved to smooth it out, tbh probably worth doing, it wouldn't really be too much effort to apply some filler, sand it down, and rattle can it. I just can't really be bothered ... given the value of the car I'd push out the damage as best i could, treat the rust and rattle can it
total cost £20?
it'll be a long time before that becomes an MOT failure but it''ll become even more visually apparent very quickly if you dont prevent it rusting.
I'm going to go against the grain here & recommend trying to get it fixed properly.
Yes it may cost as much as the car is worth or even a little bit more, but the work you have done so far is good and you seemed to have gelled with the car.
Shame to let it down now, especially as nice 75's are getting rare.
That's just my opinion though.
Yes it may cost as much as the car is worth or even a little bit more, but the work you have done so far is good and you seemed to have gelled with the car.
Shame to let it down now, especially as nice 75's are getting rare.
That's just my opinion though.
Stick Legs said:
I'm going to go against the grain here & recommend trying to get it fixed properly.
Yes it may cost as much as the car is worth or even a little bit more, but the work you have done so far is good and you seemed to have gelled with the car.
Shame to let it down now, especially as nice 75's are getting rare.
That's just my opinion though.
I would agree.Yes it may cost as much as the car is worth or even a little bit more, but the work you have done so far is good and you seemed to have gelled with the car.
Shame to let it down now, especially as nice 75's are getting rare.
That's just my opinion though.
Stick Legs said:
I'm going to go against the grain here & recommend trying to get it fixed properly.
Yes it may cost as much as the car is worth or even a little bit more, but the work you have done so far is good and you seemed to have gelled with the car.
Shame to let it down now, especially as nice 75's are getting rare.
That's just my opinion though.
These are good points, the problem is it will never be a cherished classic - no service history, bodywork isn't otherwise mint, inlet manifold hollowed out and VIS motors not working, etc. I'm also not likely to keep it long term. Though let's see if it behaves itself at the MOT ...Yes it may cost as much as the car is worth or even a little bit more, but the work you have done so far is good and you seemed to have gelled with the car.
Shame to let it down now, especially as nice 75's are getting rare.
That's just my opinion though.
Sadly I think this might be a case of tidy and use for as long as possible.
Its not a Miura, and much as it pains me seeing something unrepaired, the most important goal is to keep it on the road and used for as long as possible.
Very annoying in any case, but glad it wasn't the other car!
Its not a Miura, and much as it pains me seeing something unrepaired, the most important goal is to keep it on the road and used for as long as possible.
Very annoying in any case, but glad it wasn't the other car!
Might not be accident damage, 75's do have a habit of the lower rear sill rusting from the inside and creeping up the arch until you can see it - might be someone has covered that up - I've welded a few up and made sills for 'em!
Pity as my brother just scrapped his I'd already done all that work on too, could have had the panel off it if I'd spotted this earlier!
Pity as my brother just scrapped his I'd already done all that work on too, could have had the panel off it if I'd spotted this earlier!
PhillipM said:
Might not be accident damage, 75's do have a habit of the lower rear sill rusting from the inside and creeping up the arch until you can see it - might be someone has covered that up - I've welded a few up and made sills for 'em!
Pity as my brother just scrapped his I'd already done all that work on too, could have had the panel off it if I'd spotted this earlier!
The door is all full of filler as well so suspect it is accident damage. Spent a bit of time today prodding and poking and chipping off loose filler. To do a proper repair it would need cutting out and welding.Pity as my brother just scrapped his I'd already done all that work on too, could have had the panel off it if I'd spotted this earlier!
So think I'm just looking at something to get it through its next MOT.
So, MOT this morning, and a very annoying fail!
Failed on missing exhaust heat shield (protecting fuel tank from exhaust). Tester looked a bit baffled - he had noticed there being bolt holes but no heat shield, and said he spent a bit of time trying to work out whether it had one OEM (as it would only fail if it had). A quick Google suggests plenty of people remove these as they corrode and rattle and don't fail on them ... so clearly had a particularly vigilant tester!
Also got an advisory on "integral body structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced offside front" and slight play in suspension arm ball joint nearside front. Tester said neither was anything to worry about in the short term.
£74 for a heat shield from Rimmers (according to FB they are NLA so might have got Rimmers' last one ...) and hopefully it is easy to bolt on (it's just a few bolts but hopefully the bolts are not rusted to bits...).
Could have gone worse!!!
Failed on missing exhaust heat shield (protecting fuel tank from exhaust). Tester looked a bit baffled - he had noticed there being bolt holes but no heat shield, and said he spent a bit of time trying to work out whether it had one OEM (as it would only fail if it had). A quick Google suggests plenty of people remove these as they corrode and rattle and don't fail on them ... so clearly had a particularly vigilant tester!
Also got an advisory on "integral body structure is corroded but structural rigidity is not significantly reduced offside front" and slight play in suspension arm ball joint nearside front. Tester said neither was anything to worry about in the short term.
£74 for a heat shield from Rimmers (according to FB they are NLA so might have got Rimmers' last one ...) and hopefully it is easy to bolt on (it's just a few bolts but hopefully the bolts are not rusted to bits...).
Could have gone worse!!!
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