“It's just a daily” - Renaultsport Clio 182
Discussion
So I’ve had an idea for a long time about using the barge board on the side of the rad shroud to make a cold air feed. So with the help of @04-182 he made my idea a reality. I’ve had this for a while but hadn’t had a chance to fit it.
I’ll drop a thermocouple into the inlet tract and see what the ACTs are with and without the feed connected. Not expecting any noticeable difference but it can only help keep the intake air as fresh as possible and totally discreet doing so.
I’ll drop a thermocouple into the inlet tract and see what the ACTs are with and without the feed connected. Not expecting any noticeable difference but it can only help keep the intake air as fresh as possible and totally discreet doing so.
Just been out to try some “very” basic testing.
Dead simple, put a k type thermocouple into the inlet tract of the ITG and had it wired to a multimeter in the car.
Ambient on the car dash was showing 16c and the multimeter was flickering between 15/16c so that was bang on.
Driving the car from cold no air feed the inlet temps rose to 18c when moving at a pretty steady 30-60mph through a section of local lanes. (Pretty good)
Stopped and the inlet temp quickly rose to 31c and I moved off again. Same drive saw the ACT drop to 22c and no lower. It took a good 5 minutes of driving to see this temp come down. 22c is still very good but it showed once there was heat in the bay, it never really got back closer to ambient.
Stopped the car and allowed the temps to climb again, this time to 35c but now connected the cold air feed. Moving off saw the temps get back to a pretty decent 18c. However this happened within only a few minutes of driving.
This is as basic as it gets and I’d like to do a much better test on a fast A road to see what happens on a fast cruise.
TL;DR
In reality i doubt it would make a blind but of difference on a dyno. However it did show that having a feed, does help get the air temps back down quicker than without one.
Pre test
Without feed from cold
18c cruise, 31c stationary (2 min), 22c move off.
With feed 35c stationary (2min), 19c move off.
Also been working on this with a friend. Not quite ready to take. The plunge of a 1/2 cage yet, the rear was looking unfinished. This is still a prototype and needs a bracket/net revision. But overall quite happy with how this is looking now. T45 tube, billet alloy ends, steel floor plates etc. It’s not just for show.
Dead simple, put a k type thermocouple into the inlet tract of the ITG and had it wired to a multimeter in the car.
Ambient on the car dash was showing 16c and the multimeter was flickering between 15/16c so that was bang on.
Driving the car from cold no air feed the inlet temps rose to 18c when moving at a pretty steady 30-60mph through a section of local lanes. (Pretty good)
Stopped and the inlet temp quickly rose to 31c and I moved off again. Same drive saw the ACT drop to 22c and no lower. It took a good 5 minutes of driving to see this temp come down. 22c is still very good but it showed once there was heat in the bay, it never really got back closer to ambient.
Stopped the car and allowed the temps to climb again, this time to 35c but now connected the cold air feed. Moving off saw the temps get back to a pretty decent 18c. However this happened within only a few minutes of driving.
This is as basic as it gets and I’d like to do a much better test on a fast A road to see what happens on a fast cruise.
TL;DR
In reality i doubt it would make a blind but of difference on a dyno. However it did show that having a feed, does help get the air temps back down quicker than without one.
Pre test
Without feed from cold
18c cruise, 31c stationary (2 min), 22c move off.
With feed 35c stationary (2min), 19c move off.
Also been working on this with a friend. Not quite ready to take. The plunge of a 1/2 cage yet, the rear was looking unfinished. This is still a prototype and needs a bracket/net revision. But overall quite happy with how this is looking now. T45 tube, billet alloy ends, steel floor plates etc. It’s not just for show.
J4CKO said:
Is it a Renault thing with gearboxes, anecdotal but everyone I have known who has had one seems to have had gearbox woes ?
I know the 172/182 boxes only really suffered with the selector seals weeping due to their design. Selector shaft goes in the bottom and as they wear, gravity gives the oil a helping hand. The gearboxes are actually pretty robust, it’s just that so many have been used/abused and are now 16+ years old. My 115k mile old original box was beautiful inside and was only refreshed as it was the right thing to do.
The Mk3 RS Clios 197/200 have a different gearbox altogether (6 speed) These boxes seemed to suffer with premature synchro wear in the lower gears. However I don’t know much more than that. For the most part, the Clios are like most cars and incredibly reliable and robust when taken care of.
My 182 was a stark contrast of reliability compared to my Mini GP1 which was frankly awful. Bits fell off it for fun and it wasn’t a patch on the Clio to drive.
They say you should try everything twice, so my 2nd attempt at C&M. Was better this time but still dont particularly rate the place. If its on your doorstep then great, but ive got better pubs and breakfast meets local in Essex with infinitely better food, service and metal.
Pics courtesy of:
Edgerated_media
@SharkyUK
@bowen86
@nickclarke
Pics courtesy of:
Edgerated_media
@SharkyUK
@bowen86
@nickclarke
Edited by frayz on Monday 13th September 16:42
G.G said:
Been AGES since I’ve viewed this thread - Your a legend honestly. (followed the progress over on your instagram account instead) where i’ve sent the odd message. I’m after some advice if you don’t mind please, on my green gremlin Alien Green 200 Cup. I’ve always had a bad high frequency rattle on the steering column and was wondering in your experience if you could recommend any of the products you’ve used to treat this. I would have to get the work done by a garage but I’m in good hands on that front.
Hi mate, thanks for following. Firstly you really need to trace the source of the rattle and what's causing it. It could be the result of something else. So whilst its always great to fix a symptom like that, make sure you have a good look and see if there is any root cause that you may be able to improve first off. If its a case of 2 items rubbing then and high density foam will work well at supressing it and calming things down. If its just a case of a piece of plastic trim buzzing. If possible, add some Dodo mat to the panel to add to its mass. This will change the frequency at which it vibrates and almost certainly delete the noise.
Best of luck.
Cambs_Stuart said:
Have you got any more plans for the wizard? Just interested to know if you think this is finished, or if you think it can be improved any more.
Can always be improved i think Stu. Calipers need a refresh, still tempted to go to a larger brake kit. She needs some paint at some point just for a freshen up, no issues.
Also most important thing to address soon is a decent cup holder. The oem one is as useful as a chocolate teapot and im tired of holding my tea in the mornings. Ha
Cambs_Stuart said:
I'm with you there. There's nothing like leaving home at 6am on a cold winter's day and having to suffer the indignity of waiting for a coffee.
Where is good near you for paint?
Painters are always a tough one. My next door neighbour runs the paint shop at Woodham Mortimer (previously JD Classics) and he is an incredibly talented guy. Managed to sort a blemish on the fuel door of my Cayman R which is Peridot metallic and the match and blend is flawless. Probably the best painter I've ever seen. However as you can imagine, he's not easy to use given his day job. Where is good near you for paint?
Andy @ Spikes Vintage Restorations is local, again, amazing work, comes at a price and he is always stacked out because he has a great rep. Lovely bloke, although as i say, you get what you pay for.
Another chap I've been following is a guy called @Paint_mad on Instagram (Colchester based), he does some really nice work at sensible money. But the thing that really impresses is his enthusiasm for the job and he genuinely really cares about his level of work. I sent my father in law there recently to have a small job done on his Fiat 500 Abarth (aka Guinea pig lol) He did a great job and very competitive on price.
Edited by frayz on Tuesday 19th October 07:57
Latest on WZD.
TL;DR - Won in induction kit, thanks to JMRS, nice kit, tried it, preferred my existing setup and swapped back lol.
Recently very lucky to win a photo competition on the JMRS Facebook page, and many many thanks to the owners for offering such a cool prize in the form of one of their induction kits. I've always been intrigued to try an open cone style setup as opposed to the ITG Maxogen I've always run. However never really fancied dropping the cash on one, so here was my chance to try and see without the cost of buying it.
The kit arrived and with all the JMRS stuff, they chuck you in some stickers and trinkets etc. Nice touch i think. The kit is really nice quality using a well made silicone one piece hose coupled to a dry foam filter from RamAir.
Maxogen removed, it fits up in minutes and although has no supporting brackets, its light enough that it stays in place well.
Warmed the car up and took it for a drive, it was very quickly noticeable how much louder the open cone is than the Maxogen, in comparison, it sounded like I'd fitted ITBs to the car! Cool as that was, I'm not 17 anymore and for me its a bit too much. As my car is my daily driver (Instagram @its_just_a_daily) I've spent a lot of time making it as well rounded as i can, and for me, the Maxogen is a much smoother and refined sound that's less aggressive and more engineered.
So with that, i serviced the ITG filter, clean, new oil etc and added some reflective thermal aramid sheet to the underside of the airbox. The product I've used is a sample i acquired that has a 2mm thermal foam so provides an airgap between the foil and item its shielding. This I'm told is much more effective at insulating and keeping heat away.
We shall see, it all helps.
TL;DR - Won in induction kit, thanks to JMRS, nice kit, tried it, preferred my existing setup and swapped back lol.
Recently very lucky to win a photo competition on the JMRS Facebook page, and many many thanks to the owners for offering such a cool prize in the form of one of their induction kits. I've always been intrigued to try an open cone style setup as opposed to the ITG Maxogen I've always run. However never really fancied dropping the cash on one, so here was my chance to try and see without the cost of buying it.
The kit arrived and with all the JMRS stuff, they chuck you in some stickers and trinkets etc. Nice touch i think. The kit is really nice quality using a well made silicone one piece hose coupled to a dry foam filter from RamAir.
Maxogen removed, it fits up in minutes and although has no supporting brackets, its light enough that it stays in place well.
Warmed the car up and took it for a drive, it was very quickly noticeable how much louder the open cone is than the Maxogen, in comparison, it sounded like I'd fitted ITBs to the car! Cool as that was, I'm not 17 anymore and for me its a bit too much. As my car is my daily driver (Instagram @its_just_a_daily) I've spent a lot of time making it as well rounded as i can, and for me, the Maxogen is a much smoother and refined sound that's less aggressive and more engineered.
So with that, i serviced the ITG filter, clean, new oil etc and added some reflective thermal aramid sheet to the underside of the airbox. The product I've used is a sample i acquired that has a 2mm thermal foam so provides an airgap between the foil and item its shielding. This I'm told is much more effective at insulating and keeping heat away.
We shall see, it all helps.
Cambs_Stuart said:
That ITG airbox is really good.
My 172 came with a cone style filter, and i was in two minds about removing it. Despite my advanced years i did quite like the noise. In the end i thought it would be easier to get cold air into the standard airbox and i suspect the std airbox is better at getting air to the engine.
I think i personally prefer the added sound suppression and protection of an airbox around the filter. It just seems a better setup to me. I guess im getting old. As for local painters, im very lucky i have Andy @ Spikes Vintage Restorations close by as too PaintMad_(James) is in Colchester. Andys work is phenomenal but he is incredibly busy and you get what you pay for. He mainly does beautiful big money restoration work so not always easy to get a small job in. James works for a bodyshop business but does private work and although much less experienced, he does excellent work, very enthusiastic and reasonably priced. He has a great attitude and really cares about what he puts out. My 172 came with a cone style filter, and i was in two minds about removing it. Despite my advanced years i did quite like the noise. In the end i thought it would be easier to get cold air into the standard airbox and i suspect the std airbox is better at getting air to the engine.
Edited by Cambs_Stuart on Sunday 31st October 10:44
trails said:
<mutters something inaudible and shuffles off quietly...> 
Just finishing off new garage/workshop build, then back on it. 2022; year of the wagon
2008, Just finishing off new garage/workshop build, then back on it. 2022; year of the wagon
2009,
2010,
2011,
2012,
2013,
2014,
2015,
2016,
2017,
2018,
2019,
2020,
2021,
now 2022....
Haven't they all been the years of the wagon? Oh how i used to hate it whenever anyone asked about my car project.
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