The Range Racer
Discussion
Can I suggest a roof chop and then a roll cage. This would then have the affect of not just looking seriously cool but to lower the COG and then the cage would stiffen the rear of car and stop the suspension turrets flexing. This will make a massive difference to the handling, reducing understeer.
M4CK 1 said:
Can I suggest a roof chop and then a roll cage. This would then have the affect of not just looking seriously cool but to lower the COG and then the cage would stiffen the rear of car and stop the suspension turrets flexing. This will make a massive difference to the handling, reducing understeer.
Good shout - Here's some inspiration for you 
M4CK 1 said:
Can I suggest a roof chop and then a roll cage. This would then have the affect of not just looking seriously cool but to lower the COG and then the cage would stiffen the rear of car and stop the suspension turrets flexing. This will make a massive difference to the handling, reducing understeer.
I wouldn’t even think about chopping the roof on a modern car, as the roof is narrower than the body. That would require all new glass and extensively modified pillars.
irocfan said:
Matt Cup said:
M3ax said:
irocfan said:
just stumbled across this...
What’s the story in that one?
Hey all, its been a little while, but we have been a little busy with non range racer things.
We managed to get cracking on a few little jobs over the last couple of weekends.
We have taken off the front end in the hunt for more weight to stripp! Found a few more kgs for sure, the car is currently looking a little sorry for itself, dont worry we will put the bumpers and grill back on!
Brakes, a while ago we got some HUGE 6 pots from the later 5L L322 range rover, we finally got round to fitting them. They have slightly different mounting points to the knuckles but luckily ours came complete with knuckles and half shafts.
Getting the old ones off proved interesting…….every fixing is a fight, Man Vs Rust!! One of the damper to knuckle bolts needed a good 30 mins of heat followed by a sledge hammer!
Anyway eventually they all came off, and we are finally starting to put the car back together. We now have the left side back together and will hopefully get the other side done in the week! |They are bigger than axle stands!
We managed to get cracking on a few little jobs over the last couple of weekends.
We have taken off the front end in the hunt for more weight to stripp! Found a few more kgs for sure, the car is currently looking a little sorry for itself, dont worry we will put the bumpers and grill back on!
Brakes, a while ago we got some HUGE 6 pots from the later 5L L322 range rover, we finally got round to fitting them. They have slightly different mounting points to the knuckles but luckily ours came complete with knuckles and half shafts.
Getting the old ones off proved interesting…….every fixing is a fight, Man Vs Rust!! One of the damper to knuckle bolts needed a good 30 mins of heat followed by a sledge hammer!
Anyway eventually they all came off, and we are finally starting to put the car back together. We now have the left side back together and will hopefully get the other side done in the week! |They are bigger than axle stands!
We got a surprising message on our facebook page a few weeks back, a chap had a full set of links from a L322…...that have all been polybushed! :O
Anyway, of course we had to have them! 220 pounds later and we have the full set, perfect timing too, just as we are changing the knuckles for the new front brakes.
Interested to see how much of a difference these make, all the old standard bushes are extremely soft so our guess is a lot.
We may also end up doing something similar to rear subframe bushes. We have heard stories at work of the L322 during development. The body rolling vs the frame during hard cornering as the rear subframe bushes are so soft! I guess its the price you pay for refinement, but we won't be needed any of that anymore!
Anyway, of course we had to have them! 220 pounds later and we have the full set, perfect timing too, just as we are changing the knuckles for the new front brakes.
Interested to see how much of a difference these make, all the old standard bushes are extremely soft so our guess is a lot.
We may also end up doing something similar to rear subframe bushes. We have heard stories at work of the L322 during development. The body rolling vs the frame during hard cornering as the rear subframe bushes are so soft! I guess its the price you pay for refinement, but we won't be needed any of that anymore!
Would roll centre adjusters be any use to help with geometry when its running its lowest?
Something like this for example (I know the below is for a FWD hothatch but maybe the principal would work for the RR).
https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/clio-2-rs-roll-c...
Something like this for example (I know the below is for a FWD hothatch but maybe the principal would work for the RR).
https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/clio-2-rs-roll-c...
Matt Cup said:
Would roll centre adjusters be any use to help with geometry when its running its lowest?
Something like this for example (I know the below is for a FWD hothatch but maybe the principal would work for the RR).
https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/clio-2-rs-roll-c...
Ahhh i didnt know these things existed, Good find, very interesting idea!Something like this for example (I know the below is for a FWD hothatch but maybe the principal would work for the RR).
https://www.pure-motorsport.co.uk/clio-2-rs-roll-c...
Ours would have be a little more complicated as we have a split lower link or virtual pivot axis (to enable landrover to fit big apposed piston calipers in the wheels).
When i get a chance i shall have a look at how much we would have to move the hard points to recover the roll centres that we destroyed when lowering the car!
Slow said:
Just wondering if you managed to sort out locking the ride height without pulling the relay every time? Looking to go higher and lock it in access for regular ride height.
We have a wired up a switch to the input to the relay, there is a couple of drawbacks.......1) When turning it back on again, the air sus system wont work again until you turn the car off and on again.
2) You will get warning messages while the system is off
3) It appears that the DSC system is linked, so you cant turn off the DSC when the air sus system is off, something we are still trying to find a workaround.
But apart from that it works really well.
Intake, the L322s intake is great for wading but rather floored for a performance car…..
In standard form, the intake comes in somewhere in the wheel arch, though the front wing, though into the air box. We believe this is to allow any water in the air (from wading) to condense before hitting the air box, but does give a rather restricted path.
Then, from the air box, it air then goes over the top of the engine before dropping into the supercharger at the back of the engine. (getting unnecessarily hot on the way!)
Our plan is to make this far more simple. Have a large cone filter in the rear of the engine bay. In the battery box location, and then a simple pipe running across the back of the engine bay straight into the supercharger.
We will have to move the battery into the back for this but that's a good idea for weight distribution anyway.
Step 2 will likely come in the way of a bonnet scoop to try to force more fresh cool air into the back of the engine bay area.
Fear not, filter for mock up purposes only! It would struggle to filter a coffee without being a bottleneck, so not best suited to a charged 4.2L V8! Bigger one on the way!
In standard form, the intake comes in somewhere in the wheel arch, though the front wing, though into the air box. We believe this is to allow any water in the air (from wading) to condense before hitting the air box, but does give a rather restricted path.
Then, from the air box, it air then goes over the top of the engine before dropping into the supercharger at the back of the engine. (getting unnecessarily hot on the way!)
Our plan is to make this far more simple. Have a large cone filter in the rear of the engine bay. In the battery box location, and then a simple pipe running across the back of the engine bay straight into the supercharger.
We will have to move the battery into the back for this but that's a good idea for weight distribution anyway.
Step 2 will likely come in the way of a bonnet scoop to try to force more fresh cool air into the back of the engine bay area.
Fear not, filter for mock up purposes only! It would struggle to filter a coffee without being a bottleneck, so not best suited to a charged 4.2L V8! Bigger one on the way!
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