Turbo 205 GTi Lemon!
Discussion
Caddyshack said:
I wonder if a small PC type fan would work on the back of the cooler - pretty sure I have seen oil cooler fans before?
Yeah I've seen them too. Zero space for that tho, it is over the rad so the rad fans should pull some through. I'm thinking Ali rad as mine is looking abit tired, and maybe brushless fans or at least spals, as the cheapy ones I've got dont pull that much. Plus I can go at least one size bigger, maybe 2 Been thinking about a intercooler spray kit as well. As I've noticed a couple of times it's gone into the hot map guy setup for me. Sets the whole map a few % richer if the inlet temps get to high to protect it. Only been after heatsoaking in traffic in this mega weather. The coolant temps been fine. And clears again quite quickly.
TheConverted said:
Caddyshack said:
I wonder if a small PC type fan would work on the back of the cooler - pretty sure I have seen oil cooler fans before?
Yeah I've seen them too. Zero space for that tho, it is over the rad so the rad fans should pull some through. I'm thinking Ali rad as mine is looking abit tired, and maybe brushless fans or at least spals, as the cheapy ones I've got dont pull that much. Plus I can go at least one size bigger, maybe 2 Been thinking about a intercooler spray kit as well. As I've noticed a couple of times it's gone into the hot map guy setup for me. Sets the whole map a few % richer if the inlet temps get to high to protect it. Only been after heatsoaking in traffic in this mega weather. The coolant temps been fine. And clears again quite quickly.
Caddyshack said:
TheConverted said:
Caddyshack said:
I wonder if a small PC type fan would work on the back of the cooler - pretty sure I have seen oil cooler fans before?
Yeah I've seen them too. Zero space for that tho, it is over the rad so the rad fans should pull some through. I'm thinking Ali rad as mine is looking abit tired, and maybe brushless fans or at least spals, as the cheapy ones I've got dont pull that much. Plus I can go at least one size bigger, maybe 2 Been thinking about a intercooler spray kit as well. As I've noticed a couple of times it's gone into the hot map guy setup for me. Sets the whole map a few % richer if the inlet temps get to high to protect it. Only been after heatsoaking in traffic in this mega weather. The coolant temps been fine. And clears again quite quickly.
Have you got any pictures is it this type? http://www.kitcardirect.co.uk/universal-aluminium-...
I'm quite happy with the intercooler it's well sized and works well even on the Dyno. It replaced the 2wd Cossie the car cam with which will be less effective Than the one I've fitted as it's only about 5 or 6 rows deep. The current. One is 19 or 20. Although shorter, definitely more volume.
Oil cooler sits here now and that support bar is different. So not in the way, I didn't actually remove the bumper to fit it, I was able to slide it in and fix everything off!
Edited by TheConverted on Tuesday 9th August 00:06
Looks very neat. The RS500 one would completely cover the rad so if your intake temps are staying low enough that would make sense not to change it.
I can see that the oil cooler wont get much flow there. I have seen the oil coolers hung from the rear of the car in the air flow but its a lot of piping and the pressure needs to stay high etc.
I can see that the oil cooler wont get much flow there. I have seen the oil coolers hung from the rear of the car in the air flow but its a lot of piping and the pressure needs to stay high etc.
Yeah I know, but without making it exposed, or cutting the bumper not sure how I can get more flow over it. If it was a track car I'd cut the valance and holes in the bumper. Or put it in front.
I don't want it low or under the car as if anything hits it it's game over.
Although I whent to the local PH pub club tonight and drive it 7pm fairly spiritedly, and the coolant was just below its mid-level. And the oil temp was down at he mid level on the gauge been sitting at the 3/4 temp normally, and with the new new cooler during these hot day. So happy with that.
Then in the way home 2130, a very spirited run with my buddy in his accord euro R . Oil temp stayed mid, and the the coolant the same. Oil only rose after was on a motorway slip part throttle on a motorway slip hat high RPMS. But then settled to back down once cruising on the motorway. So the new oil cooler is more effective. As I've never see it that low especially after being 'used'
I need to fit an actual oil temp gauge, so I have a number. As the factory gauge means piss all really. It's just an indication of what's happening. But I don't want another gauge. Might be time for a digital dash so I can have all the info. Including the inlet temps, and maybe Exhaust gas temps.
I don't want it low or under the car as if anything hits it it's game over.
Although I whent to the local PH pub club tonight and drive it 7pm fairly spiritedly, and the coolant was just below its mid-level. And the oil temp was down at he mid level on the gauge been sitting at the 3/4 temp normally, and with the new new cooler during these hot day. So happy with that.
Then in the way home 2130, a very spirited run with my buddy in his accord euro R . Oil temp stayed mid, and the the coolant the same. Oil only rose after was on a motorway slip part throttle on a motorway slip hat high RPMS. But then settled to back down once cruising on the motorway. So the new oil cooler is more effective. As I've never see it that low especially after being 'used'
I need to fit an actual oil temp gauge, so I have a number. As the factory gauge means piss all really. It's just an indication of what's happening. But I don't want another gauge. Might be time for a digital dash so I can have all the info. Including the inlet temps, and maybe Exhaust gas temps.
TheConverted said:
Yeah I know, but without making it exposed, or cutting the bumper not sure how I can get more flow over it. If it was a track car I'd cut the valance and holes in the bumper. Or put it in front.
I don't want it low or under the car as if anything hits it it's game over.
...
I need to fit an actual oil temp gauge, so I have a number. As the factory gauge means piss all really. It's just an indication of what's happening. But I don't want another gauge. Might be time for a digital dash so I can have all the info. Including the inlet temps, and maybe Exhaust gas temps.
I would say just by having it you will reep the benefits, I get it is not optimal but then again as you have experianced you are still getting the cooling effects you need. I don't want it low or under the car as if anything hits it it's game over.
...
I need to fit an actual oil temp gauge, so I have a number. As the factory gauge means piss all really. It's just an indication of what's happening. But I don't want another gauge. Might be time for a digital dash so I can have all the info. Including the inlet temps, and maybe Exhaust gas temps.
Gauge wise, I would have a look around you can get some fairly reasonable looking multi gauges, I have found a company called Zadatech who make a compact multigauge or I would look at the Spa design dual gauges maybe to keep things compact.
Do you have a picture of your dash / gauge set up currently
Given the viscosity of oil, coolers don't generally make big differences, given their size and location (usually an afterthought by design unless a purpose built sports car). However, every little helps and at least with a road car you can simply back off if temps creep too high. I really like the SPA dual digital gauges, as the most important feature is the alarm function. I see that they are still for sale through 3rd parties but it seems that the SPA website has closed/moved. So not sure whether they are still being manufactured or bought out by another company?
For the cooling I would look for more venting either Rallye style fog lamp grilles or a bonnet vent, ideally something subtle and appropriate like the Lancia Integrale style vent. For multi-guages Aeroforce are excellent, and they make a non-OBD guage which ought to work on your car.
BTW- awesome work on the 205, I'm enjoying the frequent updates.
BTW- awesome work on the 205, I'm enjoying the frequent updates.
I have been thinking about Bonnet vents but really don't really want to got that route. I was thinking maybe some holes through the firewall into the scuttle area, as that's basically a big vent anyway. The fog light vents don't go into the bay I would need to pipe it there. It's just the slam panel/front of the arch.
Cheers for the gauge recommendations, I'll have a look at those. At the moment it's the stock phase 2 dash. And I have AEM afr gauge and a boost gauge one below one in the drivers airvent.
This is the the kind of thing I'm looking at. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124007062485?mkcid=16&a...
Guy said he can change a chip in the ECU to allow it to give all of its data to the logging box. If I did that the only thing I need to check is if the system can give the ECU back the lambda data as a 5v signal. As currently the afr gauge is the lambda controller with the ECU being given a 5v signal. I don't think the omex 600 can drive a wideband. I also do have an electronic Speedo take off so should be able to calibrate that To it.
It's what I did in the fiesta as it had a pop dash so nothing of any use. And having the rest of the gauges in the glovebox cuddy was a pain. (I don't want anything in sight when you look at the car it gives it away immediately, and it looks naff. .on the a Piller or in a pod)
Cheers for the gauge recommendations, I'll have a look at those. At the moment it's the stock phase 2 dash. And I have AEM afr gauge and a boost gauge one below one in the drivers airvent.
This is the the kind of thing I'm looking at. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124007062485?mkcid=16&a...
Guy said he can change a chip in the ECU to allow it to give all of its data to the logging box. If I did that the only thing I need to check is if the system can give the ECU back the lambda data as a 5v signal. As currently the afr gauge is the lambda controller with the ECU being given a 5v signal. I don't think the omex 600 can drive a wideband. I also do have an electronic Speedo take off so should be able to calibrate that To it.
It's what I did in the fiesta as it had a pop dash so nothing of any use. And having the rest of the gauges in the glovebox cuddy was a pain. (I don't want anything in sight when you look at the car it gives it away immediately, and it looks naff. .on the a Piller or in a pod)
I believe on most cars that the base of the windscreen is a high pressure zone so adding vents there into the engine bay reverses the flow of air which does more harm than good.
Bonnet vents can be a little visually challenging but the top of the bonnet is low pressure so does a good job of sucking air out of the engine bay.
Bonnet vents can be a little visually challenging but the top of the bonnet is low pressure so does a good job of sucking air out of the engine bay.
shalmaneser said:
I believe on most cars that the base of the windscreen is a high pressure zone so adding vents there into the engine bay reverses the flow of air which does more harm than good.
Bonnet vents can be a little visually challenging but the top of the bonnet is low pressure so does a good job of sucking air out of the engine bay.
That's a fair point, I was thinking if I did go bonnet vents if I could get something into the sides of the auto bulge. Yeah it's a fiberglass bonnet . Bonnet vents can be a little visually challenging but the top of the bonnet is low pressure so does a good job of sucking air out of the engine bay.
TEKNOPUG said:
Given the viscosity of oil, coolers don't generally make big differences, given their size and location (usually an afterthought by design unless a purpose built sports car). However, every little helps and at least with a road car you can simply back off if temps creep too high. I really like the SPA dual digital gauges, as the most important feature is the alarm function. I see that they are still for sale through 3rd parties but it seems that the SPA website has closed/moved. So not sure whether they are still being manufactured or bought out by another company?
SPA got bought out and the new business has stopped doing the garages and fire extinguishers systems. I believe Merlin Motorsport have bought the rights to the garages ans are looking to reintroduce them. They also have taken on the servicing of the the fire systems.
Really want to avoid vents. The bonnet dosn't seal down the tops of the wing any way. I think before I start making it look like I'm sponsored by ripspeed, the catches are bad enough. I need to look at improving the rad and the air do it. I could certainly block off the areas around the rads and force the air through. Also it's only really a problem in traffic when it's mega hot weather. Or if it been heatsoaking when it's off for a short period. The Davis Craig water pump would help there as it circulates the coolant after you turn it off. But space is already a premium.
On the move its fine especially when the weather calms it's tits.
Ran spot on today, day off with the family down to mudeford. Rant like a dream there and back. Only got 'hot' after I nipped into a shop near home. Must have been 30 degrees plus on the way home. When I say hot, it's never been close to overheating. I'm talking about. The temps being abit above normal running. And the intercooler heat soaking to a point the map goes into the rich protection mode. It's still perfecty happy. Just wouldn't thrash like that.
Even a paddle board in there!
Only negative. Bloody sump is weeping again. Permatex do a specific alloy to iron rtv. But I can't find it in the UK. I think they just exspand at different rates. And it eventually gives up especially as I can't guarantee its perfectly clean for the hole drying time. As some oil still drips out.
My favourite Peugeot tuner does a gasket that's thicker and made of something better than factory. Perhaps I should try that , As I can probably do that up tighter too.
On the move its fine especially when the weather calms it's tits.
Ran spot on today, day off with the family down to mudeford. Rant like a dream there and back. Only got 'hot' after I nipped into a shop near home. Must have been 30 degrees plus on the way home. When I say hot, it's never been close to overheating. I'm talking about. The temps being abit above normal running. And the intercooler heat soaking to a point the map goes into the rich protection mode. It's still perfecty happy. Just wouldn't thrash like that.
Even a paddle board in there!
Only negative. Bloody sump is weeping again. Permatex do a specific alloy to iron rtv. But I can't find it in the UK. I think they just exspand at different rates. And it eventually gives up especially as I can't guarantee its perfectly clean for the hole drying time. As some oil still drips out.
My favourite Peugeot tuner does a gasket that's thicker and made of something better than factory. Perhaps I should try that , As I can probably do that up tighter too.
Little update, shift knob failed me in the mega hot weather. It was on it last legs as if glued various bits back on. But it finally split/ melted in half 
surprising how upsetting driving home with half a knob Is. 
So being a tight bugger, I fired up my great grandfathers Myford ML7 which I think is from the 40s maybe the 50s. Anyway it's been a while and old reliable let me down. Kept tripping the garage. So got the motor off and on the bench.
This casting had disintegrated. I had no clue what i was looking at so consulted the myford Facebook group (yep that's a thing!) It a centrifugal switch for the starting circuit. As this motor Must be 50 odd years old. And not the original. They recommend I get a new one. Which makes sense.
Ignored that advice, and pulled the rest of the switch out. Serviced the bearings cleaned it up an rebuilt it. Now all I have Todo is spin it by hand to start the motor. In the lathe it's safe and easy. A half turn on the top pulley is enough to get it going. And with the drive disengaged the belt is slack enough I could stop it if I needed to just grabbing it.
So then got about making a new knob.
I did split it slightly fitting it which is annoying as it pretty spot on. But the 205 dosent have a threaded stick. It's barbed. But it must be tapered which I missed. I put the bronze puck on as I was going to try an engrave then pattern on bit looked s
t so machined it off.
Last time the sump was off I noticed the temp sensor is lost inside it's adapter and the sump wall so as the lathe was running I machined a spare down so it was much more exsposed.
Shows the difference.
I ordered the gasket of spooxs as much as I'd rather not. An did the sump last night. Fingers crossed this is the last time
shows the temp sensor. As it was. I think it was probably sensing the alloy temps more as theres only a 0.5mm ish gap between it and the adaptor that's then deep in an alloy sump.
As it is now
Only had one run in it but I noticed that the temps are pretty much the same. But the temps are moving around more, more like I'd expect. The oils cooling far quicker than I previously thought, Which is nice to see.
Little family trip today for a walk an a cream tea in the new forest.
Still abit anti social. Above 70 on the motorway. But otherwise it's performing perfectly. Sedate enough not to upset the Mrs. And goes like a stabbed rat when I want to annoy her
Sorry it's filthy, we have a hosepipe ban , and I won't use the paint scratchers. I did jet wash it at then garage the other day. But it's not the same as when I doit properly.
surprising how upsetting driving home with half a knob Is. So being a tight bugger, I fired up my great grandfathers Myford ML7 which I think is from the 40s maybe the 50s. Anyway it's been a while and old reliable let me down. Kept tripping the garage. So got the motor off and on the bench.
This casting had disintegrated. I had no clue what i was looking at so consulted the myford Facebook group (yep that's a thing!) It a centrifugal switch for the starting circuit. As this motor Must be 50 odd years old. And not the original. They recommend I get a new one. Which makes sense.
Ignored that advice, and pulled the rest of the switch out. Serviced the bearings cleaned it up an rebuilt it. Now all I have Todo is spin it by hand to start the motor. In the lathe it's safe and easy. A half turn on the top pulley is enough to get it going. And with the drive disengaged the belt is slack enough I could stop it if I needed to just grabbing it.
So then got about making a new knob.
I did split it slightly fitting it which is annoying as it pretty spot on. But the 205 dosent have a threaded stick. It's barbed. But it must be tapered which I missed. I put the bronze puck on as I was going to try an engrave then pattern on bit looked s
t so machined it off. Last time the sump was off I noticed the temp sensor is lost inside it's adapter and the sump wall so as the lathe was running I machined a spare down so it was much more exsposed.
Shows the difference.
I ordered the gasket of spooxs as much as I'd rather not. An did the sump last night. Fingers crossed this is the last time
shows the temp sensor. As it was. I think it was probably sensing the alloy temps more as theres only a 0.5mm ish gap between it and the adaptor that's then deep in an alloy sump.
As it is now
Only had one run in it but I noticed that the temps are pretty much the same. But the temps are moving around more, more like I'd expect. The oils cooling far quicker than I previously thought, Which is nice to see.
Little family trip today for a walk an a cream tea in the new forest.
Still abit anti social. Above 70 on the motorway. But otherwise it's performing perfectly. Sedate enough not to upset the Mrs. And goes like a stabbed rat when I want to annoy her
Sorry it's filthy, we have a hosepipe ban , and I won't use the paint scratchers. I did jet wash it at then garage the other day. But it's not the same as when I doit properly.
I've been chatting to a chap in France, whose bolted a xu10j4r rfv head on to a Xu10j2te bottom end. To make a decent flowing low ISH compression 16v turbo. He's making 350bhp at a similar boost level. It's got me thinking as complete xu10j4r engine ls are cheaper than porting my head.
Anyone know what the 306 s16 engine code is as my buddy has one buried in his shop.
Not much to up date. The rear interior was all abit loose and poorly fitted so I cracked a few beers and settled into sorting it all and sound deadening wear I could Access. I'd argue it's made the biggest difference noise wise feels like a different car when I start it now.
The first time in my life if fitted a slightly illegal mod. It's completely compliant accept the sizing. But I'm lothe to put the plate anywhere else just looks abit Barry or wanna be rally car.
I have been getting some part throttle turbo surge in the with the boost turned up. So fitted a new adjustable BOV as the baliey one wasn't up to the job of containing the boost. I need to see what the boost is pressure side of the TB as I think the inlet is a restriction now. As well as the exhaust manifold.
But otherwise it's just a very practical performance car
All my kite surfing gear down at the beach. Not doing that in a 911 coupe
Anyone know what the 306 s16 engine code is as my buddy has one buried in his shop.
Not much to up date. The rear interior was all abit loose and poorly fitted so I cracked a few beers and settled into sorting it all and sound deadening wear I could Access. I'd argue it's made the biggest difference noise wise feels like a different car when I start it now.
The first time in my life if fitted a slightly illegal mod. It's completely compliant accept the sizing. But I'm lothe to put the plate anywhere else just looks abit Barry or wanna be rally car.
I have been getting some part throttle turbo surge in the with the boost turned up. So fitted a new adjustable BOV as the baliey one wasn't up to the job of containing the boost. I need to see what the boost is pressure side of the TB as I think the inlet is a restriction now. As well as the exhaust manifold.
But otherwise it's just a very practical performance car
All my kite surfing gear down at the beach. Not doing that in a 911 coupe
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