Suffolk Jaguar SS100
Discussion
Hi Swallownut - Thanks for your interest and your comments. Don't worry, I got the 'all clear' from Mike Tink at Suffolk before we carried out any mods to the radiator and cooling system! Apparently the fitting we've removed is very rarely needed on the SS100 and Mike advised us that it's definitely spurious on ours and we could safely dispense with it. There is, in fact, a standard overflow spigot on the filler neck - just out of sight on the pic - and the filler cap is a standard spring-loaded pressure relief one. On the left hand side of the header tank there is another threaded insert that takes the electric fan switch - one of the pics shows it already in position, since removed pending the welding.
You are right in assuming the electric fan would be sufficient on its own - in fact Mike Tink actually suggested that if we wished to retain the wide-bossed 3.8 water pump that couldn't take the plastic fan, we could leave the fan off altogether and rely solely on the electric one. However, he qualified this by mentioning that he wouldn't make that recommendation for any other than a UK car and wouldn't risk it for one destined for export. We've gone ahead with the original fan simply because we can! And wanted to keep the engine as close to original as we could - and we think it looks better anyway. In addition to that, we wondered if by keeping the big fan we may even be able to dispense with the electric fan .... ? We won't know, of course, until we road test the car, but it's a thought that's in the back of our mind ... After all - it IS the original fan that helped cool the original engine ......and the Suffolk radiator is much the same size as the original. We'll see ......
You are right in assuming the electric fan would be sufficient on its own - in fact Mike Tink actually suggested that if we wished to retain the wide-bossed 3.8 water pump that couldn't take the plastic fan, we could leave the fan off altogether and rely solely on the electric one. However, he qualified this by mentioning that he wouldn't make that recommendation for any other than a UK car and wouldn't risk it for one destined for export. We've gone ahead with the original fan simply because we can! And wanted to keep the engine as close to original as we could - and we think it looks better anyway. In addition to that, we wondered if by keeping the big fan we may even be able to dispense with the electric fan .... ? We won't know, of course, until we road test the car, but it's a thought that's in the back of our mind ... After all - it IS the original fan that helped cool the original engine ......and the Suffolk radiator is much the same size as the original. We'll see ......
Edited by Roadstar800 on Wednesday 20th February 17:19
Edited by Roadstar800 on Wednesday 20th February 17:21
Hi Julian64, and welcome. Great to hear of your project, especially about the original SS steering wheel and your proposals. Precisely what I would do if only I could put my hands on an original one! For your information, Mike Taylor, who has just completed his build and put his SS on the road last week nicely in time to catch the lovely weather we've been enjoying recently, has started a new site 'The Suffolk owners and builders group' and I'm sure he would love to hear from you and extend a warm invitation to join. Try visiting https://www.facebook.com/groups/188819205373646/
Edited by Roadstar800 on Wednesday 27th February 23:12
The radiator is back from the fabricator now, complete with its blanked off filler and repositioned inlet spigot to the right hand side of the header tank so to give the new top hose ample clearance from the big fan. Note the angle - designed to 'point' at the corresponding manifold spigot so as to present a near as possible straight run of the top hose,
As this work was being done, my attention was drawn to a couple of threads in the 'Suffolk owners and builders' group about modifications to the standard radiator drain, which essentially is just a screwed plug in the bottom of the radiator. This struck a chord in my memory from when we were removing the engine and other parts from the donor S-Type Jaguar. I recalled admiring the simple remote drain fitted to the original radiator - the 'remote' part being a simple rod extension to the top of the radiator allowing you to drain it off without having to scramble underneath or use any tools. I thought 'what if ....'! We still had the original rad and with a quick glance could see no reason why we shouldn't transfer it across. So that's what we did. Of course, a quick glance is rarely sufficient to suss out any problems and the first one we found was that the rod wasn't long enough to accommodate the height of the Suffolk radiator - so we had to make a new one, in stainless of course! Then we found that the length of the actual valve together with it's welded-in plinth stood the rod off too far from the radiator core and it would have fouled the chassis cross member running immediately behind the radiator - the same chassis member that would have necessitated the small diameter fan had we gone down the 4.2 road. This problem was resolved by machining up an alloy 'top hat' plinth allowing us to recess the mounting. and thus the valve, further into the radiator. A lot of work for a bit of authenticity - but I love it and wouldn't have it any other way!
As this work was being done, my attention was drawn to a couple of threads in the 'Suffolk owners and builders' group about modifications to the standard radiator drain, which essentially is just a screwed plug in the bottom of the radiator. This struck a chord in my memory from when we were removing the engine and other parts from the donor S-Type Jaguar. I recalled admiring the simple remote drain fitted to the original radiator - the 'remote' part being a simple rod extension to the top of the radiator allowing you to drain it off without having to scramble underneath or use any tools. I thought 'what if ....'! We still had the original rad and with a quick glance could see no reason why we shouldn't transfer it across. So that's what we did. Of course, a quick glance is rarely sufficient to suss out any problems and the first one we found was that the rod wasn't long enough to accommodate the height of the Suffolk radiator - so we had to make a new one, in stainless of course! Then we found that the length of the actual valve together with it's welded-in plinth stood the rod off too far from the radiator core and it would have fouled the chassis cross member running immediately behind the radiator - the same chassis member that would have necessitated the small diameter fan had we gone down the 4.2 road. This problem was resolved by machining up an alloy 'top hat' plinth allowing us to recess the mounting. and thus the valve, further into the radiator. A lot of work for a bit of authenticity - but I love it and wouldn't have it any other way!
Edited by Roadstar800 on Wednesday 27th February 23:22
While we were working on the radiator, the body was being prepped for colour in the bodyshop. The body molding is made up of a number of separate moldings - such as the wing edges for example - that are all brought together in a master jig and bonded together. This leaves 'flash' marks that have to be sanded down and/or filled prior to priming and ultimately putting into colour. This week we reached the final prep stage and the time had come, before colour, for us to set out and drill the 68 holes in the top of the front wings that would eventually take the rivets. The original car body is made in alloy and to prevent 'gravel rash' and stone damage to the underneath of the wings where stones are thrown up by the front wheels, the original SS has oblong steel sheets riveted to the underside, the rivet heads being visible on top of the wings. Our holes are for actual rivets to reproduce this feature, although they will be glued in rather than riveted to avoid damaging the molding. And, of course, the GRP wings don't need the protection of steel sheets, although I'm sorely tempted! Suffolk's attention to detail is fascinating .....
The body sanded and primed ready for colour ....
Marking out the rivet positions ......
Finished drilling - and not one mistake ...... !
The body sanded and primed ready for colour ....
Marking out the rivet positions ......
Finished drilling - and not one mistake ...... !
Yes - I see the pair of rivets half way down the wings. I will need precise measurements if I'm to do that. At first I thought you meant just ahead of the sidelight but I think that's a bit of damage!
The seam you mention is already molded in by Suffolk, thank goodness!
On another note, I see the running board strakes appear to be straight and parallel while all others I have seen, including Suffolks, curve slightly, the inner one following the body line, and diverge at the forward ends. Curious. I like the 'diverging' line better - it aesthetically more pleasing.
The seam you mention is already molded in by Suffolk, thank goodness!
On another note, I see the running board strakes appear to be straight and parallel while all others I have seen, including Suffolks, curve slightly, the inner one following the body line, and diverge at the forward ends. Curious. I like the 'diverging' line better - it aesthetically more pleasing.
Edited by Roadstar800 on Thursday 28th February 11:19
Well, Swallownut, following your advices regarding the additional wing stay rivets I dropped Mike Tink an e-mail requesting an extra four rivets, together with my explanation f why I wanted them, and within 30 minutes received a reply. I was so impressed with the detail of his response that I felt I must share it with everyone as an example of Suffolk's excellent service - after asking Mike Tink's permission of course! Amazing!
Edited by Roadstar800 on Thursday 28th February 14:15
Very interesting pics, Julian, and very courteous of you, too. I'll copy them across to my SS100 files shortly but meanwhile please leave them on for a few days at least. It's a very interesting colour - what is it, do you know? When you describe it as an 'old Suffolk', just how old do you mean? Have you a photo of your 'Frankenstein' steering column that you hope to modify? Is it a solid column? Why don't you apply to join Mike Taylor's group - I've sent you the link - where you'll find many long standing owner-builders who have vastly more experience than I and whom will be much better qualified to offer advice and assistance? I'm just a beginner here! I'm a member, too, and will be able to follow you on there. Where are you based?
You look very well equipped and ..... do I get a glimpse of an XKSS in the background?
You look very well equipped and ..... do I get a glimpse of an XKSS in the background?
Edited by Roadstar800 on Thursday 28th February 20:17
Edited by Roadstar800 on Thursday 28th February 20:20
julian64 said:
The colour apparently is an original colour called lavender grey. Slightly weird as its not grey, and certainly not lavender. Its quite stunning in the daylight.
According to Suffolk its one of the first they built, so I guess pretty early in Suffolk's evolution. .
Am still having trouble identifying the steering column. According to Suffolk it was a MK6 jag with an extension welded on. The previous owner had a motolite wheel on so it needed the collar at the top. However the original wheel has a clamp and was quite happy to slide up and down the original keyway for adjustment so I've re-machined it all. It has a typical crush section at the bottom as you can see. The phot shows when it was first taken off.
Good eye by the way on the XKSS. Its the car on my profile. I think I'm probably developing some sort of unhealthy addiction to Jaguars.
There's no mistaking the distinctive and unique line of an XKSS's windscreen line!According to Suffolk its one of the first they built, so I guess pretty early in Suffolk's evolution. .
Am still having trouble identifying the steering column. According to Suffolk it was a MK6 jag with an extension welded on. The previous owner had a motolite wheel on so it needed the collar at the top. However the original wheel has a clamp and was quite happy to slide up and down the original keyway for adjustment so I've re-machined it all. It has a typical crush section at the bottom as you can see. The phot shows when it was first taken off.
Good eye by the way on the XKSS. Its the car on my profile. I think I'm probably developing some sort of unhealthy addiction to Jaguars.
I'm pleased to see you've joined Mike Taylor's group - there are expert peeps on there who may well help you ID your steering column.
I'll follow your progress with interest. Good luck.
Hi Straff99 - thanks for the compliment. We try our best!
PAS steering? Suffolk actually offer this option but the only Suffolk SS100 I have come across - not that I HAVE come across many - with PAS is Noel Edmund's 'Le Riviera' range that isn't really aimed at the same market that attracts PH members! I did consider it but briefly as when I test drove a Suffolk works car I agreed with them that it didn't really need it. I certainly haven't read of any current owner expressing a desire for PAS. But where do you stop? What about A/C? What about Auto? Noel Edmund opted for both those, too. But - I would consider PAS if I thought it needed it. Or I needed it !!
PAS steering? Suffolk actually offer this option but the only Suffolk SS100 I have come across - not that I HAVE come across many - with PAS is Noel Edmund's 'Le Riviera' range that isn't really aimed at the same market that attracts PH members! I did consider it but briefly as when I test drove a Suffolk works car I agreed with them that it didn't really need it. I certainly haven't read of any current owner expressing a desire for PAS. But where do you stop? What about A/C? What about Auto? Noel Edmund opted for both those, too. But - I would consider PAS if I thought it needed it. Or I needed it !!
It's been a couple of months now, since I last posted, and I've been trying to trace my steps back to see where I had got to. I see that at that time I was pressing on with the body while I was waiting for some mods to be done to the engine, on account it was a 3.8 instead of the usual 4.2 that Suffolk usually deal with on the SS. So .. I'll continue here with the body work ...
The paint shop did a sterling job on the body in Rolls Royce Porcelain White. At this stage I made a mistake. I delivered the body straight to them out of the covered trailer from Suffolk. Not just the body but the doors, the alloy bonnet components and the alloy front valence - all to be painted at the same time. In retrospect I should have first mounted the doors and 'profiled' them to the body in order to eliminate any moulding imperfections before putting anything into colour - what Suffolk call 'correction'. But more of that later.
In my previous post - see page 5 - I'd drilled both wings ready to take the brass rivets, some 68 of them, prior to spraying. I was torn between installing them at this stage so that they get painted at the same time as the wings, or have them painted separately and glued in later. It was pointed out to me that it would be very difficult to 'polish up' a finished surface in between the rivet heads as it would be just as difficult not to take off the surface of the rivet heads in the process. So I elected to have them painted separately and glued in after the paint had been 'buffed up'. I acquired an old oak bread board from my wife and depth drilled the necessary 68+ 4mm holes so that each rivet head was a couple of mm away from the board surface and the complete board and rivets went through the painting process with the body.
|https://thumbsnap.com/KvL3Heb5[/url]
The finished result was 'spot on'! Get it?
The paint shop did a sterling job on the body in Rolls Royce Porcelain White. At this stage I made a mistake. I delivered the body straight to them out of the covered trailer from Suffolk. Not just the body but the doors, the alloy bonnet components and the alloy front valence - all to be painted at the same time. In retrospect I should have first mounted the doors and 'profiled' them to the body in order to eliminate any moulding imperfections before putting anything into colour - what Suffolk call 'correction'. But more of that later.
In my previous post - see page 5 - I'd drilled both wings ready to take the brass rivets, some 68 of them, prior to spraying. I was torn between installing them at this stage so that they get painted at the same time as the wings, or have them painted separately and glued in later. It was pointed out to me that it would be very difficult to 'polish up' a finished surface in between the rivet heads as it would be just as difficult not to take off the surface of the rivet heads in the process. So I elected to have them painted separately and glued in after the paint had been 'buffed up'. I acquired an old oak bread board from my wife and depth drilled the necessary 68+ 4mm holes so that each rivet head was a couple of mm away from the board surface and the complete board and rivets went through the painting process with the body.
|https://thumbsnap.com/KvL3Heb5[/url]The finished result was 'spot on'! Get it?
Edited by Roadstar800 on Monday 27th May 16:44
The next task at this stage was to fit the running board strakes, or treads as they are known. They come as straight lengths of alloy profile, being cut to length, with the mounting holes pre-drilled and the ends 'closed' to the correct profile. The actual tread comes as a roll of profiled rubber strip. Using measurements supplied by Suffolk, to start with only the first hole of each strake is drilled in the running board, just in front of the rear wing. Then, to get my hand in, I fitted the outermost strake first, on account that it is the only one that does not have a compound curve, being straight and only curving upwards to follow the rise of the wing. At first it seems an impossible task to curve a rigid length of alloy channel with your bare hands without making it look like a 50p piece - or in old money, a threpny bit! But incredibly, against all expectations, the heat from my hands did seem to soften the metal. Or was it my imagination? Anyway, once the strake was suitably curved, taking care to ensure the strake followed the straight line of the outer wing edge, I drilled the front hole in the wing and fastened it down fore and aft. Next came the innermost strake, the most difficult because not only is it the shortest but has to be formed into a compound curve without imparting a twist. Once satisfactorily conforming both to the sideways curve following the body line and the upwards curve following the rise of the front wing, that too, can be fastened down fore and aft. From then on it becomes easier - next the centre strake mid way between the inner and outer followed by the two other strakes midway between those - curving and moulding the appropriate strakes in turn before fastening them down at the fronts. The rest is by eye - judging when the 'divergence' of each strake matches its neighbour with a 'tweak' here and a 'nudge' there! When they appear perfect, then and only then is the running board drilled and the strakes fastened down, in this case with pop rivets.
Edited by Roadstar800 on Monday 27th May 12:50
I'd had the body painted locally - Rolls Royce Porcelain White from my original choice of Old English White because I thought OEW was a tad too creamy - and it was safely transported to my workshop.
The next job was to lift on the body to the chassis. The body is heavy and with some delicate maneuvering needs a bit of extra muscle - four of us to be precise, not that it was THAT heavy but more because four pairs of eyes are invaluable when clearances are tight. It was managed without incident, though, and once down we found we could shuffle it about a little to get it to line up with the various mounting points - ten vertical ones and, to be attended to later, six horizontal ones. Here is the illustration taken from the excellent Suffolk build manual ...
Body in postion and ready to be lifted on ..........
Before the body is released, Suffolk put it on a jig at the factory and tailor the doors individually to the body. During the process they shim the body mounting points so that the doors fit precisely with the correct shut lines and they supply the spacer shims, and even the brass door hinges, all individually bagged and ID'd so that theoretically the builder reproduces the factory clearances when reassembled. I say theoretically because inevitably some discrepancies get factored in and so a little tweaking and adjustments is necessary to get everything perfect - but that's part of the satisfaction of the build. It would be boring otherwise! The only shim/spacers that are not supplied are the horizontal ones - those you have to make yourself once the vertical ones have been installed and adjusted to perfection - a fiddly, time consuming job getting it just right so as no undue stress is put on the body which would, in extreme cases, cause misalignment of the doors and subsequent cracking of the GRP gel coat. To make the spacers I used thick walled aluminium tubing filed to size with stainless penny-washers sandwiching the steel reinforced GRP and stainless steel bolts, assembling the penny washer-the spacer-the standard washer super-glued together to make a double ended 'top-hat' and making them a 'finger tight' fit so as not to
introduce the dreaded stress!
|https://thumbsnap.com/a487tQLc[/url]
The next job was to lift on the body to the chassis. The body is heavy and with some delicate maneuvering needs a bit of extra muscle - four of us to be precise, not that it was THAT heavy but more because four pairs of eyes are invaluable when clearances are tight. It was managed without incident, though, and once down we found we could shuffle it about a little to get it to line up with the various mounting points - ten vertical ones and, to be attended to later, six horizontal ones. Here is the illustration taken from the excellent Suffolk build manual ...
Body in postion and ready to be lifted on ..........
Before the body is released, Suffolk put it on a jig at the factory and tailor the doors individually to the body. During the process they shim the body mounting points so that the doors fit precisely with the correct shut lines and they supply the spacer shims, and even the brass door hinges, all individually bagged and ID'd so that theoretically the builder reproduces the factory clearances when reassembled. I say theoretically because inevitably some discrepancies get factored in and so a little tweaking and adjustments is necessary to get everything perfect - but that's part of the satisfaction of the build. It would be boring otherwise! The only shim/spacers that are not supplied are the horizontal ones - those you have to make yourself once the vertical ones have been installed and adjusted to perfection - a fiddly, time consuming job getting it just right so as no undue stress is put on the body which would, in extreme cases, cause misalignment of the doors and subsequent cracking of the GRP gel coat. To make the spacers I used thick walled aluminium tubing filed to size with stainless penny-washers sandwiching the steel reinforced GRP and stainless steel bolts, assembling the penny washer-the spacer-the standard washer super-glued together to make a double ended 'top-hat' and making them a 'finger tight' fit so as not to
introduce the dreaded stress!
|https://thumbsnap.com/a487tQLc[/url]Edited by Roadstar800 on Monday 27th May 14:33
[url]Edited by Roadstar800 on Sunday 17th November 23:21
Before delivering the body, Suffolk put it on a jig and the doors are made and tailored to the individual body - during which process the eight main vertical body mounting points are measured and shimmed with hand made spacers to ensure the door alignment and shut lines are correctly adjusted. Just one mm of adjustment on one mounting point can affect the door alignment. It's a tricky job! The body is then delivered with all the shims, spacers, nuts and bolts - even the door hinges - all stamped up and identified so that the builder can re-produce the factory set-up at home - in theory! In practice all manner of things can upset things which need a bit of tweaking to get right, but at least the builder has a datum point from which to work. Even the thickness of the paint can upset things! In my case it took me several days of 'tweaking' to get the doors to fit anywhere near my expectations - it is a decidedly tricky job when adjustment of any one of six mounting points can affect the fit of either or both doors! In my case I had to file down the door hinge beds and re-profile sections of the door to match that of the body - and THAT is when I realised my mistake! I should have had all this done BEFORE I had the body painted! Of course, had I elected to let Suffolk paint the body before got it, all this would have already been done for me but in my wisdom I thought I would have it done locally not realising what was involved. You live and learn! But then again, I COULD have let Suffolk build the ENTIRE car for me ... but then I wouldn't be writing this blog, would I? Or having the satisfaction of getting things right - I AM a bit anal when it comes to the detail! Although tedious at times - I must have had each door off twenty times - it's a bit like decorating - the satisfaction comes when it's finished and you sit back and look at it, giving yourself a metaphorical pat on the back!
Before ...
[url]
Before ...
[url]Edited by Roadstar800 on Monday 27th May 16:50
Hi Adade - I'm gratified to hear from a fan from across the pond! Thanks for your interest and obvious concern. Don't worry, I'm still alive and kicking alongside my project - neither of us is dead! The fact is that I spend most June months on the Continent (of Europe) every year and work stops in May! Coupled with that the day after my return on the 1st July I was booked in for minor surgery on my hand that has left me incapacitated for at least a month. It is incredibly difficult to do anything with only one hand! But the surgical wounds are healing well and I should be able to take up from where I left off in a couple of weeks. Meanwhile Suffolk have been catching up with some outstanding parts delivery including the newly designed hollow steering column that I asked for to enable a steering wheel horn button to be fitted in lieu of the Suffolk under-dash mounted one. Also, they've replaced the old transmission tunnel previously supplied with a newly designed two-part one that facilitates future clutch changes, their policy being of continual improvement. I'm itching to get back on the job ..... ! Keep in touch.
Edited by Roadstar800 on Sunday 21st July 13:14
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