Mk1 Honda Insight
Discussion
Krikkit said:
Looks great, always liked these. I presume its real forté is the suburban commute?
Lack of sound deadening means the cabin is quite noisy so yes definitely better at the urban stuff. Having said that it will sit at 80 happily should you wish.It's geared very long, 72mph in 2nd IIRC. 3/4/5 are really overdrive gears to get the economy right down.
It's not a bad contender in the traffic light GP.
The curse of the dealer strikes again.
The spark plugs are indexed with 4 options suffixed A, B, C or D. The letter is clearly stamped into the cylinder head next to the coil.
Here's mine.
Definitely a B.
Here's what's installed.
It doesn't hurt but equally it's pretty slack from the dealer. NGK UK never bothered to import them to the UK and according to my local Honda dealer they only get C and D versions.
They're readily available in the US so ill order a set from there.
The spark plugs are indexed with 4 options suffixed A, B, C or D. The letter is clearly stamped into the cylinder head next to the coil.
Here's mine.
Definitely a B.
Here's what's installed.
It doesn't hurt but equally it's pretty slack from the dealer. NGK UK never bothered to import them to the UK and according to my local Honda dealer they only get C and D versions.
They're readily available in the US so ill order a set from there.
Krikkit said:
What's the difference A-D with the plugs? Temperature?
No its to do with where the thread starts in relation the gap in the electrode. Using the right lettered plug means that when it's torqued in correctly it's pointing in the right direction for the best fuel burn.The correct direction on thsee engines is one of the inlet valves, not an exact thing though as each type of these plugs covers a 90 degree arc. Some guys seem to over torque slightly so they are all pointing the same way at the valve.
You can manually do it with a standard plugs by marking the gap on the top of the plug and then fitting it and seeing where it is, then shimming it so it stops in the right place. Or, as every plug is slightly different, try lots until you find 3 that fit correctly out the box.
I thought the brakes didn't feel 100%.
New discs and pads are on order. I'll strip and clean the calipers at the same time.
Have had a poke around underneath today it's mostly looking pretty clean. It almost all plastic and aluminium so there's very little corrosion. The rubber bits look past their best and there was a few trim clips missing which is pretty standard.
Rear trailing arm bushes are a bit cracked, not sold separately and the rear beam is in the region of £750, one for the future I think.
JonnyVTEC said:
Mine has brake lines the last MOT and the fuel lines on the bulkhead under bonnet can be a hot spot for corrosion so remove the clip clean and grease it up.
As a hybrid owner are your sandals still in the post hence bare feet
Rear brake lines have been done by the looks of it. I'll check the fuel hoses. As a hybrid owner are your sandals still in the post hence bare feet
They're on order, along with my white socks.
ChocolateFrog said:
Rear trailing arm bushes are a bit cracked, not sold separately and the rear beam is in the region of £750, one for the future I think.
They all look cracked. Ignore them until it fails the MOT.. Use some silicone grease/spray on them to keep salt/crap/oil off them. Ditto ones at the front which also squeak. use silicone lubricant liberally applied to stop the groaning over low speed bumps etc.
peterperkins said:
They all look cracked. Ignore them until it fails the MOT.. Use some silicone grease/spray on them to keep salt/crap/oil off them.
Ditto ones at the front which also squeak. use silicone lubricant liberally applied to stop the groaning over low speed bumps etc.
Good tip Ditto ones at the front which also squeak. use silicone lubricant liberally applied to stop the groaning over low speed bumps etc.
Although my OCD tendencies already have my finger on Honda redial.
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