Phoenix from the flames - Porsche Boxster with an Audi 2.7T
Discussion
Escy said:
Max M4X WW said:
Have you seen the Driftworks / DynoTorque YouTube video of Craigs LS? Supercharged Aston? He fitted some sort of aircon chiller I believe.
I watched that video at the time, from memory I think he was just talking about the possibility of upgrading the system to use the AC to chill the coolant. I've looked through but can't find it again. I do like the idea of doing this, I've done a load of research and i'm putting together a list of parts i'll need.
markirl said:
Like the turn you've taken with this project! Are you planning to break the 986?
Yes, this is currently how it's looking. It's nearly all stripped, there is not a huge amount left to remove now. I'll be getting rid of the shell in the next few days hopefully. I've sold a load of parts already, it's panning out better than my fag packet maths predicted which is nice. 
The mess in these pictures makes me feel anxious though haha!
M22s said:
Really awesome thread/project.
The mess in these pictures makes me feel anxious though haha!
It's organised chaos. I like to think I know where all the tools are even when they are strewn all over the place. The reality is I spend half the time looking for stuff. The mess in these pictures makes me feel anxious though haha!
The Wookie said:
OP if you need an outlet for the shell then drop me a PM I know a few Porsche club racers who might be interested
I'd have happily donated it but I've not got the time to leave it sitting in the garage waiting for it to be collected, i've got a 987 with a sick engine looking for some love. The shell is being collected by my local scrap guy tomorrow morning. The shell has been collected. I've got axle stands that are on wheels so it made it quite easy to get rid of, the front was high enough that it went straight onto his bed without needed the ramps. He pulls it from the front with his winch and I lower it from the back with mine as it's going downhill for the last bit. Mixed feelings about seeing it in this state, I never felt the same about this car as the blue one so i'm not too sad about it but at the same time it's a shame for it to go out like this, I was driving it a week and a half ago. Onward and upwards, i'll make a start on the 987 today. I bet I find a load of parts that are the same as the 986 and I've just binned them.
Max M4X WW said:
You are certainly a fast worker, I have only ever escaped one car and it must have sat around for a year in varying states of decay whilst I removed and sold parts!
I feel like i'm in a race agaisnt time, I want to get as much done as fast as possible before I have to go back to work. I'm behind schedule for where I hoped to be. I seem to spend half the day writing adverts, wrapping parcels and dropping stuff off. My plan with breaking is only remove the stuff that'll sell and to sell all the big heavy stuff quite cheap and collection only as I can't be arsed with the hassle of wrapping and sending things like a roof or body panel. I've shifted loads of stuff already which is good.
piers1 said:
Fantastic work Escy, you do move fast!
Re Cayman vs Boxster, I think the open top option is worth keeping personally, but each to their own.
Wish you well with the next big stages, I keep hitting refresh hoping for new pictures!
You might be right regarding Boxster vs Cayman, it's basically the same car with the ability to drop the roof. I feel like the Cayman (once you add a spoiler to balance out the profile) is the better looking car. Re Cayman vs Boxster, I think the open top option is worth keeping personally, but each to their own.
Wish you well with the next big stages, I keep hitting refresh hoping for new pictures!
With the 986 gone I turned my attention to the engine. I felt like there was an issue with it, it was down on power for the boost levels, my arse dyno, the real dyno and the performance calculator on the ECU all have down as about 100bhp shy.
I checked the timing and bank 1 is out, the bar exaggerates how far it's off, it's probably only 1 tooth but that should explain where some of the horses have gone. I don't know how I managed this, i've got all the proper timing tools. Last time I had the belt off was inside the Boxster. Hopefully it'll make a decent difference, I did notice more pronounced change only on one bank when the VVT switched and also the lambdas sensors would read about 0.5 lambda off from each other during a pull.
Sorted out the belt and double checked the chains were right which they were.
Whilst looking it over I noticed an actuator arm was touching the bracket from where the turbo had been clocked. It moves fine but it could possibly be binding when hot.
Slight weeping on the power steering pipe which I changed.
Whilst the inlet manifold and cam covers where off I gave them a lick of paint. I used the VHT Wrinkle paint.
I don't have a huge amount of faith in the cheap actuators that come with the turbos. They test fine but I thought now is a good time to swap them, they start to open at around 5psi. I wanted something a little stiffer but didn't want to buy aftermarket. I bought a pair of Garrett actuators for a Pulsar GTI-R, these were a bit of a punt but apparently opened at 8psi.
I collected a pair of the scabbiest looking K03 turbo's from a mate so I could use the actuators for parts. I cut off the old actuator so I had the bracket that bolts to the turbo. I welded the actuator to the bracket and welded the 2 actuator arms together.
I did the hard turbo first as it's the one where the actuator is tucked in under the exhaust manifold. It's really tight on space and this new actuator is slightly larger than the original one. I've fitted it and I've got about 1mm to the starter motor and 1mm to the cylinder head casting so it only just worked. Having compared these actuators to the standard ones they have a wider range of opening which means I can add a bit more pre-load and still get good articulation on the wastegate flap. They look fine opening up at about 10psi so this was a worth while upgrade and a cheap one. I just need to do the other side now.
I checked the timing and bank 1 is out, the bar exaggerates how far it's off, it's probably only 1 tooth but that should explain where some of the horses have gone. I don't know how I managed this, i've got all the proper timing tools. Last time I had the belt off was inside the Boxster. Hopefully it'll make a decent difference, I did notice more pronounced change only on one bank when the VVT switched and also the lambdas sensors would read about 0.5 lambda off from each other during a pull.
Sorted out the belt and double checked the chains were right which they were.
Whilst looking it over I noticed an actuator arm was touching the bracket from where the turbo had been clocked. It moves fine but it could possibly be binding when hot.
Slight weeping on the power steering pipe which I changed.
Whilst the inlet manifold and cam covers where off I gave them a lick of paint. I used the VHT Wrinkle paint.
I don't have a huge amount of faith in the cheap actuators that come with the turbos. They test fine but I thought now is a good time to swap them, they start to open at around 5psi. I wanted something a little stiffer but didn't want to buy aftermarket. I bought a pair of Garrett actuators for a Pulsar GTI-R, these were a bit of a punt but apparently opened at 8psi.
I collected a pair of the scabbiest looking K03 turbo's from a mate so I could use the actuators for parts. I cut off the old actuator so I had the bracket that bolts to the turbo. I welded the actuator to the bracket and welded the 2 actuator arms together.
I did the hard turbo first as it's the one where the actuator is tucked in under the exhaust manifold. It's really tight on space and this new actuator is slightly larger than the original one. I've fitted it and I've got about 1mm to the starter motor and 1mm to the cylinder head casting so it only just worked. Having compared these actuators to the standard ones they have a wider range of opening which means I can add a bit more pre-load and still get good articulation on the wastegate flap. They look fine opening up at about 10psi so this was a worth while upgrade and a cheap one. I just need to do the other side now.
ATM said:
Why does everyone keep talking about the AC shutting off at WOT. Why cant that just be changed so it doesn't shut off at all?
Because that gives you maximum power without the power loss of the Aircon and the reality is that outside of a race track you're only ever going to be WOT for a few seconds at most.Fastdruid said:
ATM said:
Why does everyone keep talking about the AC shutting off at WOT. Why cant that just be changed so it doesn't shut off at all?
Because that gives you maximum power without the power loss of the Aircon and the reality is that outside of a race track you're only ever going to be WOT for a few seconds at most.Shadow R1 said:
Great job finding the bits out, on the engine. 
Surprised it didn't trigger more codes with the timing being out.
I think the bar makes it look worse than it is, it's probably about a tooth off. I can't remember at which point the belt was last off, not sure if it ran like this on the original ECU.Surprised it didn't trigger more codes with the timing being out.
ATM said:
I understand that. But in this application the OP clearly wants the AC to keep running. So why not do that - problem solved.
I thought maybe the pumps don't like operating at high RPM. I doubt with the compressor engaged at WOT it would do much to hold back the rising coolant temperatures. As i'm on a standalone it's something I can do if I wanted. Not made the progress i'd have liked over the last few days, been busy with other stuff. Swapped over the other turbo actuator. And re-fitted the painted cam covers.
I've been looking at OEM exhausts that might work on my Boxster. The silencers on the Ferrari 458 looked interesting. I managed to pick up a pair for £125 posted so I thought it was worth a punt. The boxes are pretty small, all the 458 has is these and a big cat each side. They've got switchable valves in them, with the valves open it's a 60mm bore, with them closed the system is 45mm. The Ferrari has 3 tail pipes, the 2 45mm ones merge and come out of the middle, the 60mm pipes are either side and only active when the valves are open. I'm not sure if i'll do similar. I'll probably just have the 2 big ones coming out so it looks standard and the smaller ones I might not bother to merge and just have them hidden and pointing downwards. I've got no clue how this will sound with the valves closed, hopefully quiet otherwise it'll be a waste of time.
I've wired up my ECU to the OBD port so I can capture the canbus data on the 987 before I pull it apart. It should give me a fighting chance of working it all out at the other end.
I'd underestimated the wiring when I decided on swapping the engine into a 987. There are quite a few differences. I bought a digital workshop manual and printed out all the wiring diagrams I needed and I've been going over them. It's starting to get a bit complicated but I think i'm across it all. I'm going to do things a little different this time, I'm going to retain the original ECU as I want it to take care of the bread and butter stuff like controlling the engine compartment fan. It'll save me a few outputs on my standalone which I can use for things like controlling the exhaust. The standard ECU won't be on the canbus.
Escy said:
I'd underestimated the wiring when I decided on swapping the engine into a 987. There are quite a few differences. I bought a digital workshop manual and printed out all the wiring diagrams I needed and I've been going over them. It's starting to get a bit complicated but I think i'm across it all. I'm going to do things a little different this time, I'm going to retain the original ECU as I want it to take care of the bread and butter stuff like controlling the engine compartment fan. It'll save me a few outputs on my standalone which I can use for things like controlling the exhaust. The standard ECU won't be on the canbus.
Strewth 
Yeah
I assumed wrongly that a 997 engine can go in a 996 easily enough but it can't. Hardware is largely the same but lots of different sensors and electrical gubbins. Some of the valve timing might even be electrically controlled - can't remember. Point is all these extra bits need wires and connections to the ECU. So it's all a lot more complicated.
I assumed wrongly that a 997 engine can go in a 996 easily enough but it can't. Hardware is largely the same but lots of different sensors and electrical gubbins. Some of the valve timing might even be electrically controlled - can't remember. Point is all these extra bits need wires and connections to the ECU. So it's all a lot more complicated.
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