Jaguar xjc 4.2
Discussion
A few pictures of the engine again. Cylinder bores cleaned up nicely. Block I’ve been prepping for a new coat of paint. Sump and timing cover off. Sump cleaned up quickly, no nasties found, sump baffle cleaned up nicely also. Just waiting for delivery of paint, gaskets and new head bolts.
carinaman said:
Interesting engine shots.
I just like to show what is currently being worked on. Any problems I share, so someone else can get to it straight away if experiencing the same. These engines are quite expensive to rebuild now. So I think the pictures show how relatively easy the build is if you have a bit of time and patience.
Retro_Jim said:
I'm just catching up on your work Rob, it's looking excellent! I'm interested to see the engine go together, with regards to the head studs would a cold coating like gunsmiths blueing help resist corrosion without having to heat the studs and oil quenching and risk warping?
Thank youI had thought of possible different coatings but recently I was given a genuine Jaguar service and maintenance manual. Interesting part of the coolant mixture is Barr’s corrosion inhibitor and 40% mix of antifreeze to water. Which I thought was quite high but the head studs are within the water jacket. So get rid of the oxygen and technically the head bolts won’t corrode. I would imagine that was Jaguars solution to combat the corrosion on the head studs. The Barr’s corrosion inhibitor was a yearly service item also. So with that knowledge and new head bolts I think that’s the way forward regarding that part of the engine rebuild.
Today the bottom end gaskets arrived and part of those are new rear crank oil seals which are for the best part made of rope. I wasn’t going to remove the crank but now I’ve seen the rope seals I think it would be prudent to change them seeing as I’m about 12 bolts away.
So more dismantling engine pictures soon. Timings are an issue though as I’ve currently got the engine in the college workshop during half term. Ideally I’d do all the mechanical work before painting the block but as students will be back next week I need to get the block painted and dry before removing the crank. Then hide it out the way with a cover until I can work on it during the evenings once the students have gone home. Sounds like a plan
Mikeeb said:
Rob you can change the rope seal for a modern lip seal. It does require the crank to be machined but far less chance of a leak.
I’ve seen that mod. Rather expensive I thought. The crank grinding is a fair amount of material as well. I have use of a cylindrical grinder at the college but there policy is no coolant as it’s for demo purpose only. Coolant is possible though if I go via a cnc machine , anyhow once the crank is out I’ll have a proper measure and double check I can get the part on the grinder as this crank is rather long. That said of all the previous engine work/gearbox swaps, it’s never had a leaky rear crank seal. Tough one.
The above picture shows the area where the rope crank seal is. To do the modification I need to grind a diameter smaller than the bearing journal. Now that isn’t a good thing. More so as I’m using a manual gearbox with a heavy flywheel which will be thumped each time via the clutch when changing gear. Original rope type seal will stay.
Back to the rear crank seal. Done a bit of research. It seems leaks from newly fitted seals is due to bad procedure.
More interesting is a tool is needed to size the new seal but via the last bearing cap to ensure its in line with the crank centreline.
The Jaguar service manual also states each engine will be different. So the generic modification of fitting a modern rubber seal wouldn’t really work.
Below I found a dimensioned drawing of the tool needed to size the rope seal. I’ll double check the dimensions with the diameters on my crank and main bearing holder. The later has the bearing shells removed to use the tool.
More interesting is a tool is needed to size the new seal but via the last bearing cap to ensure its in line with the crank centreline.
The Jaguar service manual also states each engine will be different. So the generic modification of fitting a modern rubber seal wouldn’t really work.
Below I found a dimensioned drawing of the tool needed to size the rope seal. I’ll double check the dimensions with the diameters on my crank and main bearing holder. The later has the bearing shells removed to use the tool.
Pictures below of the new rear crank seal. I need to do another as you can see the ingress of the graphite grease where the two halves meet. Just shows how easy to fit incorrectly.
The last picture is probably ok but all the others would leak oil.
So order another and try again next week
The last picture is probably ok but all the others would leak oil.
So order another and try again next week
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