Ford Focus Mk2 [ST] Estate Sleeper - Build Thread

[CHR15 G]

pingu393 said:

CHR15 G said:

I might put one wheel trim on each side, just for that neglected look.

A real wolf in sheep's clothing

I was thinking a wolf in sheep's clothing, but with a couple of teeth showing and some claws-so the ultra observant would notice.

[CHR15 G]

Thanks for all the great feedback, it really does mean a lot to me.

[CHR15 G]

A couple of related updates to the project. The Clio has hit 100k miles, 45k in my ownership over the last two and a half years! I really wanted the project to been done before this mileage milestone, but hopefully won't be long.



In other, sadder, news the Focus has died. After 14 years of faithful service to the family it finally succumbed to the rust.

[CHR15 G]

In project related news...

New dash and wiring is in and everything is connected up. It was a fairly straight forward task in the end, once it was in position is was just a case of doing up the bolts and plugging in all the electrical connectors which are all different to aid assembly. Put the key in and turn it to the first position...



Whereas before nothing came on at all. So turn the key to the second position and... nothing changes apart from getting this message:



Basically this means that the two parts of the PATS (immobiliser system) aren't talking to each other. This was unexpected and I'm not sure what to try next...

So I decided to fit the new drivers seat so at least I have somewhere nice to sit whilst pondering my next move (and it's easier to bleed the clutch/brakes whilst waiting for the car to fix itself).

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The Spruce goose said:

I know when I have issues on ecu changes I just got the immobiliser removed from the ecu to solve the problem, but dont know fords. And it would leave your car immobiliser free which can be a good and bad thing.

I've already removed a top of the range Clifford alarm system, which took about three minutes with a pair of snips...

Unfortunately the Ford immobiliser is embedded in the engine ECU

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BOBTEE said:

Silly question but... you are using the key from the ST aren't you? Transponder ring in place and plugged in?

Valid question, everything between the key and the starter motor has been swaped to ST parts, including the complete steering column.

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KarlMac said:

Does your budget stretch to using a Syvecs? Would be useful for 400bhp ambitions too

Yes and no. Right know I want it up and running as simply and cheaply as possible, but eventually I want to build a 400bhp engine with all new internals and a system like the Syvecs.

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Sf_Manta said:

It might need a reset on the OBC to get the modules talking to each other again. Or it might be a case of getting a mobile mechnaic out with their OBC reader / clearer to try and reset it.

I had thought this, so tried to plug my OBD2 into it and it wouldn't register, so I doubled checked it on another Ford and was fine.

It's almost like of the car is left/ECU unplugged then it forgets the info...but this would be a really stupid system!

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The Spruce goose said:

i know you said ford ecus are hardwired but if yoyu are stumped i used this company in the past, good service.

http://ecutechnologies.co.uk/

That sounds like a very good company to know about, I'll keep them in mind.

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Megaflow said:

A random thought, you did start the ST before you stripped it? As in you are sure this is a problem or your doing rather than you have been sold a duff car / given the wrong keys / etc.

Haha, good question! But yes, I did run it quite a few times before I stripped it down! Couldn't resist not running it to hear the T5 and that Milltek! Actually the first time I did try to run it it wouldn't start and the gauges kept cutting out like an old skool immobilisor, so contacted the seller and he told me about to Clifford and how you have to input a code into a hidden box-it then fired up straight away!

The only thing that is different since then is removing the Clifford system, but that was just a few wires on the ignition barrel and into one of the injectors. I cut it out and soldered the wires back up and I'm confident that it's completely removed now.

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Digitalize said:

Definitely sounds like there's something wrong if it's not responding to an OBD2 reader. Double check all your connections.

I believe (hope) that it's an electrical problem, rather than any electronic problem, as all that's really happened is that it's been apart and put back together...

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Jonesy23 said:

CHR15 G said:

KillerHERTZ said:

Excellent project!


Whats the deal once you have finished, will you need to re-register it as a new vehicle?

Thank you!

No, I just need to send proof to the DVLA of the new engine size, fuel and tax class and they will update the log book. If I was 'upgrading' to the diesel from the T5 then I think they would want to come and have a look as I would then be paying them less VED, but as I'll be paying them more money then I think they're well up for it!

Insurance with Adrain Flux is very reasonable indeed, I would give them a try for all modified vehicles.

I'd have thought that as you've pulled the complete front assembly from the ST you're actually getting a bit short on ID points, you've got a 'new' engine, transmission, the steering rack has changed, the front axle has changed and the front suspension has changed. So if someone pushed the point you've technically only got the bodyshell giving you points to keep the ID which isn't enough.

Unless of course we remember the stage you didn't take photos of where you moved the ST engine & transmission onto the original subframe with the original steering rack and suspension from the estate.

Yes, of course I swaped the ST engine and 'box onto the original subframe (which already had the steering rack and suspension mounted on it), but it wasn't very exciting in the photos so I opted to leave them out. I can put them back on if people are interested in seeing an identical set of components though...?

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So after much head scratching, Google searching and chocolate biscuits I have come to the conclusion that there were two possible causes:
1. An electronic problem. Either the PATS system has 'forgotten' the code, or it needs to be reset because half of its been plugged into another system. If this is the problem then I have a problem and need to get a man in.
2. An electrical problem. The dash isn't communicating with the engine ECU because one of them isn't powered correctly. When electrical gremlins strike the first (and only) thing I know to try is earths. So I decided to check and clean all the earth points from front to back.

Checked the front most earth point which is one of three for the engine loom, and this happened. The picture speaks for itself.

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Thanks for all the encouragement guys!

Still quite a list of things to do, off the top of my head:

1. Check clutch
2. Check all gears select
3. Check brakes
4. Lower onto wheels
5. Test drive around the farm
6. Fit dashboard
7. Carpet
8. Rear seats
9. Fit pretensioners onto new seats
10. Front seats
11. Swap all door cards
12. Front wings
13. Front bumper
14. Bonnet
15. Align all panels
16. Wire in front indicators
17. Small water leak
18. Fit headlights
19. Engine bay trim
20. Wiper arms
21. Wheel arch liners
22. Undertray
23. Fit doors
24. Rear springs
25. Rear dampers
26. Tow bar
27. Exhaust system

That's what I can currently remember, not in the right order though. We actually started using this perfectly placed orangeboard to make a list...



I also thought I would take this opportunity to show off my nut and bolt filing system. Everything set of fasteners that we took off got put in their own bag and immediately labeled up with something descriptive.



And a couple of new additions to the barn; my friend's racing Alfa GTV 2000 105 series (under the cover) which has been striped down and awaiting body restoration (we will start the rebuild soon), and the 1600 105 series (white) that he is borrowing in the mean time. It's getting a bit full!



And in project related news, the headlights work (and so do all other lights).

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BenWRXSEi said:

Epic work, I think you're building my ideal car.

A friend of mine had a Focus ST 2.5 a couple of years ago, I vaguely remember him having a nightmare getting the water pump changed as the T5 is such a tight fit in the engine bay. Apologies if you've already thought of this and I've missed it, but might be worth a look while you've got the car in pieces?

Thank you!

Haha, that would have been good to check, but it's all back in now. If I have any trouble with anything then I'm prepared to drop the engine back out as it was relatively straight forward!

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We got the car down and sat on its own wheels for the first time, checked as much as we could before hand.



As it was a sunny day we decided to drive (!!!) it outside. Everything worked perfectly on the 50m test drive...



We wheeled everything else out for a bit of fresh air and sunlight.







There was a little bit of wiring to do under the dash where the alarm had been cut out.



Then we put a bit of interior back in and the doors on, then drove it back into the barn.

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KarlMac said:

This is so badass. If you ever get bored I'd definitely be interested in giving it a home!

Swap it for your Evo?

[CHR15 G]

Another couple of pictures, a day of fitting the interior. It was all fairly straight forward and went together really easily. It's amazing how much of a transformation it goes through by just putting a couple of plastic panels in!

Backed it out of the barn, to do the reverse test drive!



Exterior is getting there.



Carpet in.



Dash



Rear bench, which is actually from a 5 door hatch.



Center consul and interior sill trim. Door cards are still the originals and haven't been swapped over, but they will be some ST trims.



And back into the barn after another good day's work.



But not until we had taken it for a good blast around the farm yard, up and down all the gears and checking the brakes, all worked perfectly!

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Zombie said:

Nearly there then - good job

Very nearly, and best of all it seems to work!

djgritt said:

Awesome work.

Thank you

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davepoth said:

Awesome work OP. Are you going to use a genuine Ford wheel trim, or will you go and look for a random one on a grass verge somewhere?

Thanks! Don't think I can use a genuine Ford one, as they don't make 17 inch steels. It will have to be a Halfrauds special.