Peugeot 205 XR
Discussion
Decided to have a look at the front brakes today. Rust city! Managed to entirely mangle the retaining screws. Some cobalt drill bits on the way...
Fortunately the calipers seem to move freely despite the major surface rust. The brake fluid also looks clean and fresh in the reservoir. I may be tempted not to change it for now as bleeding brakes is something I don't really fancy doing...
Also discovered that the cable for the brake wear sensors is snapped in two. Oh well. Not sure it is important...
Fortunately the calipers seem to move freely despite the major surface rust. The brake fluid also looks clean and fresh in the reservoir. I may be tempted not to change it for now as bleeding brakes is something I don't really fancy doing...
Also discovered that the cable for the brake wear sensors is snapped in two. Oh well. Not sure it is important...
So I actually think the problem is the existing radiator is not for a TU engine - which will be why it isn't plugged in. Haynes says "the coolant level sensor is located in the radiator right-hand side tank on XV, XW and XY series engines and in the expansion tank on all other engines". So it being in the rad on my TU3 doesn't seem right - so maybe I just need to source a cap.
CarlosV8 said:
The parts catalogue suggests it could come with either a cap or a coolant level sensor:
http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205N/1/13A20A.HTM
It make sense to find a sensor that will fit if the looms there for it, but if not just find a cap and usually be good to go.
Did you manage to remove the disc mounting screws? An impact driver works wonders. If you end up drilling them you don't have to replace them if you haven't got a spare handy, just makes it slightly more difficult to line the wheel up when refitting.
Thank you, super helpful. http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/205N/1/13A20A.HTM
It make sense to find a sensor that will fit if the looms there for it, but if not just find a cap and usually be good to go.
Did you manage to remove the disc mounting screws? An impact driver works wonders. If you end up drilling them you don't have to replace them if you haven't got a spare handy, just makes it slightly more difficult to line the wheel up when refitting.
I got one disc off after soaking in wd40 but totally mullered the screws on the other. I drilled the heads and got the disc off but I've got stumps of screw that I simply cannot seem to remove. So may well leave them as they are!
I now have a caliper sliding pin soaking in wd40 that I couldn't get off...
Edited by PrinceRupert on Tuesday 22 December 19:49
Frustratingly, the seller claims my previous radiator and coolant level sensor are aftermarket and therefore that is why the sensor does not fit their radiator, which is correct for the vehicle. Accordingly, they suggest I buy an OEM sensor, which will (they claim) fit their radiator. However, this is apparently a main dealer only part. I can't find it for sale online (part no apparently 1306 24). My existing radiator is marked CHAUSSON, which Google suggests was a PSA subsidiary that went bust in 2000, so not convinced it is in fact aftermarket. So not sure what to do. Perhaps simply find a cap ...
So...I almost set the car on fire today
I decided to refit the old rad - it is a bit tatty looking but isn't leaking. So I did so, and then refilled the coolant system. I only got about 5l of coolant into rad/header tank - bled valve on hose from bulkhead, but can't bleed from valve on thermostat housing. I assume this is because until I get the car running and coolant moving about it won't have any coolant through the engine.
I then reconnected the various switches. I never actually noted which connector went where - just plugged them into the place they fit. Rewired up the battery ... and produced a lot of sparks and smoke coming from what i now know is the auxiliary fuse box, various cables, and the battery itself. Disconnected it all and unplugged everything and plugged them back in one at a time. It turns out I'd joined two connectors together that shouldn't have went together ...
So I've now got them plugged where they should be, I think, still a couple of connectors that aren't plugged in, but not sure they ever were... Turning the key still turns the electrics on, so hoping I haven't fried/melted anything.
Still waiting on the replacement crank pulley coming before I can get the engine back together, cross my fingers and turn it on for the first time. Also need to get the slam panel / bonnet latch etc all screwed back together, have various boxes of screws and no note of where they should all go. Will be fun ...
Brakes are still on the to do, still haven't got the retaining slide pin out of one of the calipers.
Also need to find a crankcase oil breather hose, can't find an actual peugeot one anywhere, the one i ordered clearly isn't for where I need it for ... someone had told me it was 19mm ID so I had ordered some standard 19mm fuel hose but that was too small, measured it and it seems it is 21mm ID, can't find 21mm hose anywhere. Ordered some 22mm hose that I plan to cut to size and hopefully will work with hose clips to hold it in place.
I decided to refit the old rad - it is a bit tatty looking but isn't leaking. So I did so, and then refilled the coolant system. I only got about 5l of coolant into rad/header tank - bled valve on hose from bulkhead, but can't bleed from valve on thermostat housing. I assume this is because until I get the car running and coolant moving about it won't have any coolant through the engine.
I then reconnected the various switches. I never actually noted which connector went where - just plugged them into the place they fit. Rewired up the battery ... and produced a lot of sparks and smoke coming from what i now know is the auxiliary fuse box, various cables, and the battery itself. Disconnected it all and unplugged everything and plugged them back in one at a time. It turns out I'd joined two connectors together that shouldn't have went together ...
So I've now got them plugged where they should be, I think, still a couple of connectors that aren't plugged in, but not sure they ever were... Turning the key still turns the electrics on, so hoping I haven't fried/melted anything.
Still waiting on the replacement crank pulley coming before I can get the engine back together, cross my fingers and turn it on for the first time. Also need to get the slam panel / bonnet latch etc all screwed back together, have various boxes of screws and no note of where they should all go. Will be fun ...
Brakes are still on the to do, still haven't got the retaining slide pin out of one of the calipers.
Also need to find a crankcase oil breather hose, can't find an actual peugeot one anywhere, the one i ordered clearly isn't for where I need it for ... someone had told me it was 19mm ID so I had ordered some standard 19mm fuel hose but that was too small, measured it and it seems it is 21mm ID, can't find 21mm hose anywhere. Ordered some 22mm hose that I plan to cut to size and hopefully will work with hose clips to hold it in place.
o/s front brakes back together.
There is a 205 Facebook post about front brakes that seems to suggest this is upside down ie sliding pin should be at bottom and anti rattle clips on top
This caused some debate
The images in Haynes seem to suggest spring on bottom.
The sliding pin retaining clip pinged across my driveway for the n/s brakes. Bit of a hunt required...
ReverendCounter said:
Maybe not all your fault - pretty sure even back then the connectors were moulded so they could only mate to their other half so it could be that someone's chopped around with your loom.
I like that point of view I'm just hoping no lasting damage caused, there is a little bit by way of melted plastic, but looks okay ...ReverendCounter]rinceRupert said:
Parts are so cheap, it seemed a no brainer to pay an extra few quid for Brembo discs and pads! That reminds me, the caliper bolts are only hand tight, as I was waiting on some Loctite. Must remember to torque them up ...
I forgot I needed a new dipstick.
I had bought one that didn't fit.
I've now ordered another one, that looks very similar to the one that didn't fit, but it is the right part number.
I am presuming it would not be a major problem to start the engine with the current dipstick in (still got the metal part, just the plastic top fell off)? I could stick a bit of tape over the hole to stop oil escaping ...
I had bought one that didn't fit.
I've now ordered another one, that looks very similar to the one that didn't fit, but it is the right part number.
I am presuming it would not be a major problem to start the engine with the current dipstick in (still got the metal part, just the plastic top fell off)? I could stick a bit of tape over the hole to stop oil escaping ...
P2KKA said:
No longer available according to my system. Part number seems correct.
Peugeot do have a page for classic parts which does show that switch but not in stock:
https://www.pieces-de-rechange-classic.com/26-205?...
Hmm. The switch i have looks like that but with a black rather than white body. Perhaps i just need to get a new radiator and cap with no sensor...Peugeot do have a page for classic parts which does show that switch but not in stock:
https://www.pieces-de-rechange-classic.com/26-205?...
MC Bodge said:
A friend of mine once had a 206. He discovered that there were sometimes 3 different variants in parts, depending upon which factory it was built in.
I think I have that problem Plus, all the online parts catalogues have about ten variants of 1.4 TU3 with varying horsepower numbers etc. Yet the one that I appear to have - K1G - doesn't tend to appear ...
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